Bangkok

Bangkok is the heart of Thailand, an intoxicating city where modern mega-malls filled with fashion-fixated locals exist mere minutes from tranquil, gold-spired temples and chaotic wet markets. Food—whether noodles from the famous street-food stalls or haute cuisine at a luxury restaurant—is a highlight for many visitors, fueling them for shopping sprees or forays into the pulsing nightlife. It may be hot, polluted, and sometimes frustrating, but the Thai capital is never ever boring.

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Photo Courtesy of Sven Scheuermeier

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Bangkok?

In short, Bangkok is hot year-round so there’s not really a season in which you’ll wish you’d brought a heavier jacket. That said, the coolest, most pleasant time to visit is between November and late February. In March, the heat and humidity ramp up again and last through May. The annual southwest monsoon sweeps in from the Indian Ocean some time between May and July and lasts into November, bringing heavy rains and some local flooding. (Happily, the towns along the Gulf of Thailand follow a different weather pattern and can provide a welcome escape from the downpours.)

How to get around Bangkok

Bangkok is one of Southeast Asia’s main air hubs, and dozens of airlines fly regularly between the city’s Suvarnabhumi Airport and the USA, Europe, Australia, and other parts of Asia. The Thai capital is also easily accessible from such nearby countries as Cambodia, Laos, Malaysia, and Singapore via long-distance buses or trains.

To get around the city, Bangkok’s thousands of taxis are great value, though the volume of traffic on city roads makes the going slow at peak times. A better option for negotiating the main tourist areas like Siam and Sukhumvit is the city’s BTS Skytrain, an elevated rapid-transit system that is both convenient and relatively inexpensive.

Can’t miss things to do in Bangkok

The debate over where to find Bangkok’s best pad thai is fierce, but Thip Samai Pad Thai, in the Phra Nakhon area, has many fans. The restaurant serves variations on just one dish—pad thai—fried over charcoal in the traditional way.

Food and drink to try in Bangkok

Dollar for dollar, Bangkok may well be the world’s finest dining destination. A large part of the city’s culinary fame is attributable to its incredible street food. Vendors serving an array of delights—tender barbecued chicken, complex curries, rice and noodle dishes, tropical fruit—can be found on practically every soi (side street). Favorites include the ubiquitous pad thai (rice noodles fried with egg, tofu, shrimp, and tamarind pulp) and som tum (spicy green papaya salad). You may not know where to start, but you certainly won’t go hungry. The city’s restaurant sector, meanwhile, is also upping its game, with both homegrown and international options to wow critics from any city in the world.

Culture in Bangkok

In Thailand, all roads lead to Bangkok. The capital is the nation’s political center, its spiritual and cultural hub, and a magnet for migrants from all over the country. The country is 95 percent Buddhist, and Bangkok is blessed with hundreds of temples, from humble pagodas to grand, gold-spired complexes. Thais do a fine job of balancing the spiritual and the earthly, however, and just as strong as these religious beliefs is the emphasis on sanuk, the idea that life should be fun.

Temples are an essential part of any itinerary, and it’s important to be versed in some cultural etiquette before exploring them. The basic rule of thumb is to respect tradition and dress conservatively. You don’t need head-to-toe formal clothing, but your shoulders and knees should be covered.

Traditional Thai festivals are a highlight for visitors to Bangkok. The river festival, Loy Krathong, takes place in the twelfth month of the Thai lunar calendar (it usually falls in November) and involves fireworks, lanterns, and thousands of floating offerings to the river spirits on the Chao Phraya river. Songkran, or Thai New Year, occurs in April and is a raucous celebration in which locals and visitors drench each other with water in the name of good fun.

Practical Information

- You can skip securing a visa for stays of 30 days or less. As long as you have a passport (valid for at least six months after your arrival) and an airline ticket that makes it clear you’re not planning to stay, you’re welcome.
- The primary language is Thai, though there are numerous regional dialects.
- The currency is the Thai baht.
- Outlets are 220v and offer outlets for both flat and rounded two-pronged plugs.

Guide Editor

AFAR Editors, with a shared passion for Bangkok, collaborated on this guide.

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The kitchen at this elegant Thai restaurant, complete with lotus pond, at the Siam Kempinski Hotel makes everything fresh and by hand, including the fish sauce and prawn crackers. Interestingly, Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin was founded by Henrik Yde-Andersen, whose Thai eatery in Copenhagen, Kiin Kiin, has earned a Michelin star. And so did the Bangkok restaurant for its creative approach to modern Thai cuisine and ten-course tasting menus that use Thai flavors and modern gastronomic cooking techniques in tastes such as basil foam and frozen red curry.
Tucked away above Mikkeller, a craft beer bar on a leafy backstreet, Upstairs has quietly established itself as one of Bangkok’s most exciting restaurants. Recognition of Korean-American chef Dan Bark’s skill came when French fine-dining bible Michelin granted the restaurant a star. Although functional and pleasant, the minimalist dining room gives scant notice of the elevated gastronomic experience provided by Bark and his team. A ten-course tasting menu changes regularly depending on the whim of the chef, featuring creative, unfussy dishes that Bark labels “progressive American” cuisine. If you are feeling flush, the best way to enjoy the food is to go with the beer pairing, which involves specially selected craft brews, cider, and mead.
A kitchen dynamo whose energy belies her age of 77, Supinya Junsuta, aka Jay Fai, is chef-owner of one of the Thai capital’s most renowned shophouse restaurants—the eponymous Jay Fai—and one of the city’s most recognizable foodie personalities. In her trademark heat-resistant goggles, essential protection from a searing inferno of hot oil, she cuts a distinctive figure. And her fame and the crowds have only grown since the Michelin Guide judges gave her eatery Thailand’s first and only Michelin star for street food in 2017 (so much so that she has expressed a wish to give the star back). Her lofty reputation is founded on the alchemy she produces from her scalding wok, with stir-fries such as pad kee mao talay (drunken noodles with seafood) and other dishes like fluffy khai jeaw poo (crab omelet) and a complex tom yum goong (hot and sour shrimp soup) more than justifying the (relatively) steep prices.
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After calling Bangkok home for more than seven years, my happy place isn’t a hole-in-the-wall noodle joint or a tucked-away temple—it’s the pleather backseat of a motorcycle taxi.
A purveyor of luxurious aromatherapy spa products and natural skincare, Thann is recognised as a global leader in its field. Set up in 2002, it is the most famous of the Thai spa brands; their sleek-looking candles, diffusion oils and naturally perfumed skin care products gracing spas around the world. With collections that are usually inspired by Asia, the brand is known for its seductively scented showrooms, dotted around Bangkok. For a special shopping experience combine some retail therapy with a spa treatment at the brand’s Thann Sanctuary spa at CentralWorld.
Opened in 1879, Mandarin Oriental was Thailand’s first hotel and is still among its best, offering a touch of romance from a bygone era. The high-rise buildings are modern and blocklike from the outside, but the interior shines with elegant details, from sweeping white staircases and filigree woodwork to towering tropical ferns and potted frangipani flowers. There are expansive river views from most rooms and public spaces, thanks to the riverside location. The world-class service has attracted personalities from Somerset Maugham and Audrey Hepburn to Mick Jagger. The New Wing consists of modern, brightly decorated rooms; the Garden and Authors’ Wings are a better choice for those looking for Old Asia. Each suite is unique. The restaurant, cooking school, and spa are some of the most sumptuous and highly regarded in the region.