I came to search for my father's birthplace. Instead I found drag kings.
The bucolic town of Takarazuka, it turned out, was famous throughout Japan for its Revue, a wildly popular all-female theater troupe.
So I bought a ticket and saw an unabashed kitsch fest, with thousands of light bulbs illuminating the actresses playing male and female parts. The story was a generic love story of sorts, with catchy tunes and lots of synchronized dancing. It certainly wasn't what I came to Takarazuka for, but I was happy nonetheless.