Gyeongbokgung Palace
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Dance and history on a summer afternoon
Gyeongbok-gung Palace, Seoul: these gardens and buildings in the middle of this frenetic city date back to the 1390's. The skyscrapers and traffic just outside the walls can seem a world away... On this summer weekend afternoon, I happened to catch an outdoor concert of medieval court music and dance. These performers were presenting a 'peony dance' on the site where, in the mid-1400's, King Sejong the Great and his cabinet invented and then presented to the nation 'Han-geul,' the Korean alphabet. (It was the world's only phonetic alphabet specifically created to encourage mass literacy by using scientifically-based symbols. South Korea even has a national holiday commemorating that declaration--the world's only 'alphabet-day.') Watching the riot of color in the breeze and listening to wavering vibrato, I recalled that one of those cabinet ministers from five-and-a-half centuries ago was a distant relative on my mother's side of the family. A sense of 'coming home' in a foreign place settled over me as I sat in the sun.
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Gyeongbokgung Palace
First built in 1395, Gyeongbokgung Palace is the largest and greatest of the Five Grand Palaces built during the Joseon Dynasty. It was later burned down during the Japanese invasion of 1592, and reconstructed in 1867. Touring the palace grounds is a great way to spend an afternoon. Be sure to check out the Throne Hall, the Royal Banquet Hall, and Hyangwonjeong, a two-story pavilion built on a small island in the center of a pond. Operating Hours: January-February, November-December: 09:00-17:00 March-May, September-October: 09:00-18:00 June-August: 09:00-18:30 Admission Fees: Adults (ages 19-64): 3,000 won / Group (over 10): 2,400 won Children (ages 7-18): 1,500 won / Group (over 10): 1,200 won To get here: Take Line 3 to Gyeongbokgung Palace Station, exit 5. Alternatively, you can take Line 5 to Gwanghwamun Station, exit 2.
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Palace Hopping in Korea's Capital
Step back in time as you palace hop between five of Seoul’s stateliest structures, built by the kings of Korea’s Joseon Dynasty. The grandest of all the palaces is Gyeongbok-gung. Built in 1395, the palace grounds are filled with lotus ponds, gardens, and ornate statues. Be sure to stand under the palace roof and look up—you’ll be dazzled by the intricate patterns of red, blue, and green painted on the eaves. The grandeur of Changdeok-gung Palace is a close second to Gyeongbok-gung. Its sprawling gardens are famed for their immense beauty, and were thought to be the favorite refuge of the royal family back in the day. Known for its lush botanical garden, Changgyeong-gung Palace was built by the famous King Sejong in the 15th century. Though originally built to house the king’s father, it became the primary home for queens and concubines instead. Gyeonghui-gung is the smallest of the palaces, and served more as the king’s vacation home. Much of it was destroyed during the Japanese occupation, but it has since been restored. The architecture of Deoksu-gung is unique among the palaces, as it incorporates both Korean and western elements. Don’t forget to watch the changing of the royal guard ceremony, which is held daily at 11:00, 2:00 and 3:30.
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standing guard...again
On my first evening in Seoul, I found myself here, in front of a 'haetae' (mythical fire-eating guardian) beneath Gwanghwamun, the recently restored gate to Gyeongbok Palace. The story of the haetae and the gate it guards sums up the turbulent, but resilient history of the Korean Capital: 1390's: The gate is built when Seoul becomes the capital of a new dynasty. 1590's: The guardhouse above the stone arches is burned during the Japanese invasions. It lays in ruins until... 1867: It's rebuilt as part of the restoration of Gyeongbok Palace; the construction almost bankrupts the 'Hermit kingdom' which finally ends up becoming a protectorate and then an outright colony of Japan from 1910 to 1945. Seoul is renamed 'Keijo.' 1926: The gate is dismantled and 're-mantled' nearby during the Japanese Occupation, to make way for construction of the Government General Building. 1950: Communist troops retreat for the first time during the Korean War, the gate is destroyed again... 1963:...rebuilt with concrete. 1990's: the Government General Building is demolished to make way for the restoration of Gyeongbok Palace; Gwanghwamun gate will finally be restored to its original condition and location. 2010: The newly restored stone-and-timber gate is unveiled; it has come home, after over eight decades of being 'displaced'... Once again, the stone 'haetae' can stand guard, as it did six centuries ago when it was first placed here. This time, may it last for a good while...
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looking back at time
While wandering the grounds of Gyeongbok-gung Palace, ("The Palace of Shining Happiness," built in the 1390's), I saw several teacher-led groups: kids on field trips in this Yi-dynasty city-within-a-city. Here, they're gathered around a medieval bronze sundial. Students in Seoul have the past at their fingertips; taking a break from their smart-phones, looking back at how time was told centuries ago, their teacher explaining how the lines indicated the time throughout the year. Clocks like these were posted in public places; animal symbols were engraved around the edge for those who were illiterate.
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shoes off for tea...
Always before entering a Korean home--whether that of a king or a peasant--the obligatory ritual: shoes come off. On this summer afternoon, a tea-ceremony class was being held in the old residence of the Queen Dowager in Gyeongbok-gung Palace in Seoul.
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Marching Colors—the Changing of the Guard
I hadn't been to Korea in nearly two decades when I landed in Seoul a couple of summers ago. Yes, it's a whirl of traffic, smartphones, and skyscrapers bathed in Wi-Fi, but the South Korean capital is also home to five palaces from the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), and the old royal colors are dazzling. At the entrance to Gyeongbok-gung, the oldest palace complex, the "Sumunjang" (Changing-of-the-Guard) begins with the reverberant boom of a massive drum, and then the colors parade by, with boat-like boots. Banners and embroidered uniforms flap in the breeze, spears and shields stand at attention, and nasal oboes compete with clanging cymbals. The ceremony dates to the 1460s and, after much research, was reinstated in the late 1990s. Catch it most days at 10 a.m., 1 p.m., or 3 p.m. The palace is closed on Tuesdays. (The smaller Deoksugung palace in the center of the city also re-enacts its own changing-of-the-guard, but the setting at Gyeongbok-gung—with the repetition of tiled-roofs and Bugak-san mountain looming over it all—is spectacular.) Seoul, despite being one of the world's largest cities, is still often overlooked by travelers to NE Asia who flock to Tokyo and Beijing instead. Some think Korean culture is simply a variation of China or Japan—but for those who take the time to explore, the color is very definitely "local."
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A Walk Through History, and Some Strange Statues
The palace is an attraction in itself, but if you’re simply looking for a peaceful place to stroll, the area around Gyeongbokgung Palace is it. Tucked away from the hustle and bustle of downtown Seoul, the palace grounds sit on 101 acres of serenely landscaped land, backed by the jagged rocky peaks of the Amisan mountains. Small pavilions, flower gardens, statues, ponds and streams prevail in this natural space, and the crowds of tourists and children make for great people watching as you meander.
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Palace of Shining Happiness
Outside of the Gyeongbokgung Palace walls a group of nuns greet each other while out walking.
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A Bustling City in the Land of Morning Calm
One of my favorite cities in Asia is Seoul. Being the capital of world’s 11th largest economy, Seoul is also one of the of the most modern cities in Asia, where one can find a wonderful mixture of old-heritage sites and contemporary life. Insadong in the center of city embodies a great mixture of old and new Korea. There are a unique collection of shops, restaurants and teahouses, and I especially loved the charming and slightly corky art galleries located along the streets heading towards the Gyeongbokkung Palace. Also, the small side streets starting at the end of Insadong leading up to the Blue House (S. Korea’s presidential residence) east of Gyeongbokkung Palace are filled with charming little cafes and restaurants. In the fall, the area around City Hall, especially the street next to Deoksugung, is absolutely breathtaking with changing color of leaves, and Seoul Museum of Art, which houses a great collection of contemporary art, is definitely worth a visit. The best entertainment venues, restaurants and café are usually located around two of S. Korea’s renowned universities, Ewa and Hongik University. The Ewa/Shinchon area has a wide variety of restaurants and great movie theaters, and Hongdae is full of unique one-of-a-kind shops, cafes and the karaoke bars.
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Girls In Hahn Bohk
Girls in traditional dress to celebrate the new year at Kyung Bohk Palace in Seoul.
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Gyeongbokgung Skyline
Gyeongbokgung Palace is the largest and most important palace from the Joseon (or Chosun) Dynasty, which was Korea's five hundred year old imperial heritage. The grounds sprawl impressively, even penned in as they are by the bustle of modern Seoul rising outside the palace walls.
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When to go: Gyeongbokgung Palace
As a famous tourist attraction easily accessible in the heart of Seoul, the palace can get overrun with tour groups in the summer. I found that slipping in right before the ticket booth closed let me wander through the complex in peace, in the beautiful evening light. Admission is 3,000 won, or about 3 USD.
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