Honolulu

Its name means “Sheltered Bay” in the Hawaiian language, but Honolulu is now a tropical metropolis stretching around the entire island of Oahu. As Hawaii’s most populated city, Honolulu also lives up to Oahu’s meaning—a “Gathering Place” among the remote Pacific Islands. Honolulu offers loads of activities from snorkeling to surfing and from hiking to farm tours. Visitors to this Pacific crossroads will return home with a piece of paradise in their hearts.

The Best Hawaiian Islands to Visit for Different Kinds of Travelers

Photo by Erin Kunkel

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Honolulu?

Hawaii boasts the best weather on the planet, making nearly anytime the perfect time for an escape to Honolulu. Hurricane season, from June to November, rarely touches the Islands, and an unpredictable bout of rain remains the mild disclaimer of any tropical island destination, Honolulu included. August and February bring fewer tourists and better prices.

How to get around Honolulu

Domestic and international arrivals land directly at Honolulu International Airport on major U.S. airlines and international carriers including Qantas, Japan Airlines, Air New Zealand, and Air Canada. For travelers arriving from within the state, Hawaiian, Island Air, and Mokulele airlines operate interisland flights.

Despite being small, the state of Hawaii is full of tropical activities, and each of the four major islands is large enough to warrant a car rental. Honolulu’s main highways include H1, H2, and H3, and traffic is heavy, so build extra time into any day trip. Guests who prefer to stay in one place for most of their vacation can use taxis or shuttle services. Tour companies typically provide pickup services and meet guests at their hotel.

Can’t miss things to do in Honolulu

Hanauma Bay may not be as iconic as Diamond Head, or provide the beach experience of Lanikai or the shoppers’ dream of Ala Moana Center, but there is magic in the stunning cove of sea water in the middle of a volcanic crater. Hanauma is a nature preserve where sea creatures are protected and plentiful. Lucky snorkelers may see a turtle along with moray eels and the Hawaii state fish, the humuhumunukunukuapuaa. A short ecological and safety video is offered before entering the bay. Snorkeling equipment is available for rent on the beach. Parking is $1 per car, and entrance is $7.50 per adult visitor.

Food and drink to try in Honolulu

As in most American cities, diners in Honolulu can find a variety of cuisines. Honolulu’s predominant Asian and South Pacific Island cultures influence many menus. Travelers will love the seafood, including Hawaii’s signature ahi poke and fish fresh from the boat. Several restaurants offer organic and farm-fresh foods from local sources.

Culture in Honolulu

Honolulu is undoubtedly the largest business center in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, drawing businesses and people from all over the Pacific Rim. The city’s residents include native Hawaiian people, Asian and South Pacific immigrants, military personnel, colonial settlers from Europe, and more recent mainland transplants. The most recent U.S. land to attain statehood, Hawaii has a relatively short history. But in an ethnically diverse state, Hawaii’s people contribute to a great variety of cultural events, landmarks, and cuisine.

In addition to U.S. federal holidays, state holidays honor the history and culture of the Hawaiian people. Parades and festivities tie up Waikiki streets during celebrations like Kamehameha Day, Prince Jonah Kuhio Kalanianaole Day, and Statehood Day. Hawaii’s colorful exuberance and somber remembrance give visitors and locals a beautiful way to participate in the state’s history.

Local travel tips for Honolulu

While Waikiki is Honolulu’s tourist hub, nearby districts have a bit less congestion. Ala Moana offers restaurants, a large shopping mall, and a beautiful beach park. Kakaako is an up-and-coming neighborhood with shops, restaurants, and high-rise buildings popping up everywhere. Respect for the local people and culture goes a long way toward contributing to island spirit—from yielding when surfing on the waves to respecting the island as a place where locals live and work. While many Hawaiian businesses take credit cards, having cash on hand is essential at some restaurants and tour companies.

Guide Editor

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HOTELS
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A Hawaiian fantasyland on Oahu’s more remote leeward coast, about 40 minutes from Waikiki, Aulani is so seductive—for all ages—that many guests are loath to leave the property at all. And who can blame them? The beach is an idyllic cove (albeit a man-made one) stocked with kayaks, boogie boards, and everything else little beach bums could want. Then there are the three pools, including one for adults only and one filled with tropical fish for snorkelers-in-training, two impressive waterslides, and the biggest crowd-pleaser of them all, a 900-foot-long lazy river where guests, big and small, splash around on inner tubes as they meander around a faux-rock grotto. Goofy, Minnie, Mickey, and the rest—all in their vacation outfits—make occasional cameos at the breakfast buffet or by (sometimes, in) the pool. But while Aulani is most assuredly every kid’s dream, it is not every parent’s nightmare. The resort decor is more traditionally Hawaiian than obnoxiously Magic Kingdom; the lobby is built to recall an old canoe house, on a grand scale, and is covered in murals, painted by local artists, depicting island life. Hawaiian storytellers gather around a fire pit at night, and rooms have warm woods, with a single subtle reference to the Mouse King—a wooden carving of Mickey with a surfboard and ukulele that doubles as a desk lamp. Perhaps best of all, the Aulani has an outstanding, supervised kids’ club that’s free to guests ages 3 to 12. Babysitters are available for kids as young as six weeks old.
Both of Waikiki’s Outrigger hotels are a good value, but this one is a little bigger and a little quieter. It’s right on the beach, just north of the main resort cluster, and though a short walk to the middle of the action, far enough to feel out of the fray. The hotel itself is a quintessential Hawaiian family resort—big and friendly, with an unmistakable good-time vibe, old-school Polynesian decor throughout, and any number of activities on offer. The pool is set back from the beach and nothing fancy (no waterslides, no swim-up bar, and up against a giant wall), but it’s large enough for a serious game of Marco Polo, and there are plenty of lounge chairs to go around. Perhaps the best reason to stay here is the beach—a fairly narrow but sparkling white strand with more elbow room than its sister beaches; the rocky bottom may have something to do with that, but it’s a good place to learn to surf and a great place to catnap in the sun. One warning: the hotel lobby may feel overly commercial to some, what with a row of gift shops and a hard-to-miss timeshare desk, but it’s easy enough to ignore, if you wish.
A few blocks up from the beach, the Coconut Waikiki is a bright and cheery budget-minded boutique hotel. The rooms are plenty roomy (197 to 265 square feet for the standard quarters; up to 1,200 square feet for the largest suites), and all have kitchenettes and private lanais. The look is fresh and modern, with light wood, white linens, and pops of color in armchairs and pillows. Amenities are minimal (no restaurant, no bar, and a teeny pool), but there’s free, speedy Wi-Fi, DIY laundry (for a fee), and, every morning, friendly international guests gathering in the lobby to toast their own waffles at the complimentary continental breakfast.
A fairly new addition to the Waikiki waterfront, the seven-year-old Modern was a dream come true for those young urbanites who never quite felt at home in the more traditional Hawaiian resorts. It’s not directly on the beach—the closest is the lagoon and expansive beach in front of the Hilton Hawaiian Village, a quick walk on the hotel’s ramp—and instead overlooks the picturesque Ala Wai Boat Harbor, where many of the island’s boating excursions depart. Designed by George Yabu and Glenn Pushelberg, celebrities in the world of fashionable hotels, the look is warmly modern, all whites and creams and luxurious wood, and some striking art pieces, including a large surfboard installation in the lobby (titled “Wreck-tangles”). There’s a fun nightclub and some seriously good restaurants, though the real scene is out on the Instagram-worthy two-tiered teak pool deck, lined with lots of cushy chaises and shady corners to curl up. Upstairs is the adults-only pool—less a pool than a shallow water prop for frequent DJ-hosted dance parties. But for as much as the Modern is a hipster haven, the service is surprisingly good at making sure guests never feel like they’re crashing someone else’s party.
Built in the Roaring Twenties, the Royal Hawaiian ushered in the glam age of Waikiki Beach. The so-called Pink Palace, a Spanish Moorish–style confection set on bright-green lawns was, at the time, the priciest hotel project in the Pacific and a fast favorite of Hollywood royalty and East Coast blue bloods (who, in those early years, arrived by steamship, along with their piles of trunks and chauffeured cars). For those first few decades, anyone who was anyone, it seemed, stayed at the Royal Hawaiian; on any given day, you might see the likes of Spencer Tracy autographing a coconut or Joe DiMaggio surfing off the hotel’s beach. Once other luxury hotels sprouted up on Oahu, the Royal Hawaiian’s star faded some, but after a massive renovation in 2008, it became a member of Starwood’s Luxury Hotel Collection and, once again, one of the top spots on the island. The makeover managed to keep those graceful old bones and art deco flourishes (miles of tile, sweeping arches), while giving the whole place a long overdue upgrade. Genteel surroundings aside, the hotel is as lively as ever. But at night, when the oceanfront Mai Tar bar is rocking, guests can still scope out quiet corners. Retreat to the gracious portico lined with rocking chairs or the garden pathways dreamily lit by torches, and you’ll discover that the romance of old Waikiki lives on.
At first glance the small little market open on Thursday evenings at St. Clements Parish in the Makiki neighborhood of Honolulu does not seem like much to stop for. However, I often took friends there or pointed them in that directions for a dinner where trying local food and some old favorites is as easy as visiting a couple of the food stands. The variety of food is great with Thai food, Hawaiian fare, fish tacos, pies, crepes of all flavors, and fruits and veggies to round out a healthy meal. The people are friendly, tables are set up to enjoy your food there or you can take it home for later. Either way, the Makiki market is an great option to easily grab dinner on a Thursday evening. Open Thursdays 4:30-7:30pm
Craft cocktails and modern Asian cuisine reign at this hip noodle bar in Honolulu‘s Chinatown. Dig into a bowl of ramen, garnished with sesame seeds, green onion, ginger, a soft egg, and wakame (dried seaweed). From there, things get lively with additions like oxtail won tons and togarashi shrimp with housemade kimchi. Other standouts include lamb lumpia and pork belly bao (buns). Adventurous eaters should try the uni gnocchi—made with creamy urchin gonads—enhanced by leeks, tomatoes, and butter cream sauce. A popular late-night stop, Lucky Belly serves its full menu until 12 a.m. every night except Sunday. Its takeout window serves specials—announced via @_dawindow on Instagram—until 2 a.m., Thursday to Saturday.
Cocktails in Hawaii are likely to evoke tiny umbrellas, wedges of pineapple, and unnatural-colored liquid. Honolulu bar Pint + Jigger takes a different tack, mixing up cocktails like the Smoking Gun margarita, with smoked macadamia nut simple syrup and aged tequila. They also have an extensive whiskey list, nearly two dozen beers on tap, and another 40 in bottle, representing both local microbrews and globally known favorites. The gastropub menu is also a standout, serving many bar food classics like burgers and fish-and-chips made in-house, with suggested cocktail and beer pairings.
The most enviable address in Waikiki, the beachfront Halekulani is all about restrained elegance and pitch-perfect service. The hotel dates back a century, though it was entirely rebuilt in the 1980s—and the room decor—fifty shades of white and plantation shutters framing the turquoise sea—complements the scene outside. The beach itself is small and usually mobbed, but the pool is a dream—a giant oval big enough for laps, and quiet enough (few kids here) for a long doze under your chaise’s umbrella. The grassy courtyards and seaside restaurants are just as improbably serene; some might say stuffy, but for others, the reliably hushed atmosphere is a welcome tonic to the hubbub of Waikiki, just outside the Halekulani’s marbled entrance.
The vibe in Waikiki is the most frenetic of all the spots in the islands, but there is an escape. The scene at the current iteration of the classic Hawaiian hangout, Duke’s, is a step back even by Oahu standards. Best approached via the beach to enhance the original feel and avoid the mall-like carnival from the street entrance, this is the kind of bar that welcomes sand on your flips. Slip in for happy hour and be prepared to jockey for a spot. Even with the crowd, the music, the food, the drinks are all designed draw you back to a simpler time when Duke was still riding the longboard. I’m partial to the beers and french fries, but will never refuse a fish taco. With a long relationship with the Kona Brewing brand, I opt for the Longboard larger or Fire Rock Pale ale. The umbrella drinks don’t disappoint, but neither do the gin and tonics. The local musical talent that ply the stage at Duke’s are traditional Hawaiian in style and like to keep the island theme front and center. There is a family vibe to the musical community, much like the rest of Hawaiian culture, and it’s not unusual to get a sibling or cousin to come up on stage and do some traditional Hawaiian dance or help out on a song or two. There was an 8 year old girl that got asked to come up on one of our visits and she blew the crowd away! The strip a Waikiki can be a bit daunting in terms of relaxation, but Duke’s remains my refuge from the madness. Aloha.