Thailand

Most visitors kick off their Thailand adventure in the country’s exhilarating capital, Bangkok, before moving on. The north offers emerald forests, mist-shrouded mountains, and the famously laid-back Chiang Mai. The south contains some of the world’s best beaches and diving, including iconic islands Phuket and Koh Samui. There’s much more to the country than its biggest hitters, though—ask anyone who has trekked through jungle in Mae Hong Son or visited cultural sites in Isaan. Thailand has experienced some political strife in recent times, but continues to capture visitors’ hearts with its beautiful landscapes and friendly people.

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Overview

When’s the best time to go to Thailand?

There are three distinct seasons in Thailand: relatively cool from November to February, hot from March to June, and rainy from July to October. Generally speaking, it’s best to visit during the cool season. The hot season really is very hot, but this is also a popular time to visit because of Songkran (Thai New Year). Monsoon season is actually surprisingly pleasant, with heavy rains interspersed with long spells of sunshine.

How to get around Thailand

Bangkok is a hub for world travel with direct flights to Europe, the Middle East, Australia, and all the major cities in Asia as well as many secondary cities. There are no direct flights between the United States and Thailand, however: journeys usually involve a stop in another Asian city like Tokyo or Hong Kong. There are also international airports in Chiang Mai and Phuket. Once you’re in the country, it’s easy to get around Thailand. There is a top-class supply of internal flights, the public transport infrastructure is comprehensive, and you can always hire a car.

Food and drink to try in Thailand

Thai is one of the world’s most famous cuisines. From street-side feasts that come in at just a few dollars to full-on five-star blowouts, the dining options for local specialties are breathtaking. The flavors vary widely from region to region. Northern Thai food carries Burmese and Chinese influences. The northeastern Isaan cuisine shares much with Laos and Cambodia, while the spicy coconut milk–infused dishes of southern Thailand carry strong notes of Malay and even Indonesian cuisine. The best introduction to traditional Thai food is in Bangkok, where you can explore every nook and cranny of the country’s abundant larder. The Thai capital is also the best place to experience contemporary cuisine. Venues like Nahm, Bo:Lan, and Gaggan (this latter is molecular Indian) have featured in recent lists of the continent’s best restaurants, and culinary standards are lofty across the board.

Events

It’s worth making the effort to catch Loy Kratong, the November river festival in which Thai people ignite fireworks, release airborne lanterns, and float thousands of offerings to the river spirits on the country’s waterways. Thai New Year (Songkran) in April is a raucous celebration that sees Thais and visitors drench each other with water as the temperatures soar. To better understand the Isaan belief in ghosts and spirits, seek out Phi Ta Khon, a colorful merit-making festival that is held in the village of Dan Sai in Loei Province. It takes place over three days around the first weekend after the sixth full moon of the year. Also look out for the Surin Elephant Round Up, held in late November each year, during which participants prepare enormous buffet spreads for the local pachyderms.

Culture in Thailand

With sacred spiritual sites complemented by modern museums, hip galleries, and other cerebral attractions, Thailand is the perfect place for an injection of culture. Bangkok, especially, is awash with international-class museums and plenty of contemporary art. For the more traditional side of Thai culture, bask in the history and grandeur of the Grand Palace in Bangkok. The nation’s long and storied history of majestic Buddhist kingdoms can also be witnessed at sites like Sukhothai and Ayutthaya—both former capitals. Chiang Mai, the northern capital, has an incredible array of wats (Buddhist temples) as well as a youthful and happening art scene centered upon Niemenhaemin Road.

Local travel tips for Thailand

Thailand’s many contemporary clubs, bars, and nightspots belie the fact that most Thais prefer local sounds to foreign imports. Thai country music, which includes luk thung (rowdy and mostly instrumental) and mor lam (a slower, more vocals-orientated sound), is hugely popular around the nation. In Bangkok, venues like Isaan Tawandaeng and Isaan Tur Tur are packed with migrant workers whose level of boisterousness is commensurate with the flow of booze.

Guide Editor

READ BEFORE YOU GO
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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Among the most loved and respected purveyors of fine antiques and Thai art is OP Place. Built in 1908, OP Place features a plethora of art galleries and shops offering a spectrum of wares ranging from Asian handicrafts to jewellery, fabrics, antiques, artworks, Thai silk and carpets. Even if you’re not in the market for antiques, the building itself deserves a visit. Neoclassic architecture and a manually operated lift add to the sense of grandeur.
The unofficial world capital of massage, Bangkok has no shortage of choice venues for kneading, pummeling, and pampering. Nonetheless, some places stand out above others. A case in point is the Oasis Spa, which offers one of the most idyllic spa experiences in the Thai capital. Hidden away down a quiet soi (small street) in the Sukhumvit area, the spa’s cool white buildings have 12 treatment rooms with louvered wooden doors and are surrounded by lush greenery, lotus ponds, and water features. The meditative atmosphere is the perfect setting for a range of treatments that include signature massages, body scrubs, facials, and hydrotherapy.
Thailand’s pioneering wellness retreat is known for its 3- to 14-day programs that address everything from burnout to sleep issues. The resort celebrated its 10th anniversary in 2015 by adding a 25-meter lap pool, a state-of-the-art gym, and a new fitness regimen for guests who want something more strenuous than massage. Every visit starts with a consultation to help you develop a schedule of meals, therapies, and classes for your stay. If structure stresses you out, there’s also a “wellness à la carte” option that lets you mix and match from more than 70 treatments and adventures including visits to Wat Plai Laem temple. From $185 (three-night programs from $1,520). This appeared in the Jan/Feb 2016 issue.
The undisputed king of Bangkok dive bars, Wong’s Place has a character of its own. It’s hard to describe exactly why you should go to this hole-in-the-wall institution near Lumpini Park. The furniture has seen better days, the toilets are nobody’s idea of a treat, and the service ranges from eccentric to downright surly. The fact that it is now one of the few venues in the city that remains open until the wee hours might explain its popularity. But really, it’s the fact that—for all its faults—the bar retains an unpretentious “up-for-it” vibe that is largely missing from more refined places. On quiet nights, there’s not a lot to recommend it, but visit on weekends and there’s a good chance you’ll fall under its beguiling spell.
Experience the khlongs, or canals, of the “Venice of the East” on a longtail boat and you’ll get a special look into the heart of Bangkok. Most of Bangkok’s waterways were dug in the 18th and 19th centuries, and while some have been filled in and paved over, there are still an amazing number to explore. Several of them, such as Khlong Saen Saeb, go through the center of the city, and the Khlong Bangkok Yai, on the western side of the Chao Phraya, cuts through one of the oldest parts of town. Many tours leave from the central piers on the river and are no more than a couple of hours long.


The true nature of old Bangkok can’t be sampled at its busy malls and modern shopping districts, but in enclaves such as this timeless thoroughfare in Chinatown. A narrow pedestrian lane, Trok Issaranuphap links two of the area’s main streets, Yaowarat Road and Charoen Krung Road, with Sampeng Lane, another pedestrian-only street filled with small department stores. It’s a portal to the traditional side of the city, especially for those who want to sample street food, as it is filled with stalls and vendors purveying tasty Chinese/Thai snacks and meals such as roast pork and duck and dumplings. The alley’s wet market is a great place to purchase fruit and vegetables. Other attractions include traditional-medicine shops, fortune tellers, and stalls selling assorted bric-a-brac.
Head chef Bee Satongun and co-owner Jason Bailey, a husband-and-wife team, are dedicated to bringing back lost recipes and techniques of heirloom Thai cooking. Paste is one of Bangkok’s most exciting Thai restaurants, and the Michelin judges have duly noted that fact by gracing it with a star. The cuisine is based on century-old family recipes served with innovative twists and an attention to detail that make it as aesthetically pleasing as it is delicious. Signature dishes include black cod poached in duck lard and larb salad with pheasant, hog plum leaves, and edible flowers, but really everything is good.
Thailand is the only country in Southeast Asia—in fact, one of the few in the world—never to have been colonized. But because Phuket was an important 17th-century trading port, its historic center still reflects the influence of European powers and Chinese visitors, seen in the handsome heritage buildings. Today, old mansions and shophouses (buildings with stores on the ground level and living space above) have been turned into modern-day cafés, restaurants and shops.

Chiang Mai residents tend to think that their city beats Bangkok when it comes to bohemian spirit. And the presence of occasionally experimental venues such as the North Gate Jazz Co-Op does much to strengthen that case. There’s a blissfully uncommercial freedom to this spot. The shophouse interior is crammed with musicians and patrons, while the party busts outdoors to the tables set on the sidewalk. As you might expect from the name, jazz is the order of the day here. Local and visiting instrumentalists come to play sets and to stretch out in jam sessions. The results aren’t always music to everyone’s ears, but the variety of genres encapsulates the loose, fun ethos of the place.
One of the most respected tailoring operations in the Thai capital, Narin Couture counts prime ministers, ambassadors and Hollywood stars among his client list. Suits and dresses – especially cocktail or formal dresses – don’t come cheap and take around two weeks to finish, but Narin’s wide range of mostly imported cashmere, cotton and wool as well as his schooling at a French fashion school makes him a premium choice for discerning dressers.