St. Vincent and the Grenadines

Until recently, St. Vincent and the Grenadines was a destination known only by the most intrepid vacationers. Because access was limited, few travelers made the difficult journey to this string of 32 islands and cays near the southern end of the Caribbean archipelago. Argyle International Airport official opened in 2017, however, making it significantly easier to discover St. Vincent’s rich history and rugged landscape as well as the Grenadines’ magnificent white-sand beaches, spread out over Bequia, Mustique, Canouan, Mayreau, Palm Island, Petit St. Vincent, Union Island, and Tobago Cays.

City center of caribbean town  Kingstown, Saint Vincent and the Grenadines

Photo by Vadim_N/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to St. Vincent and the Grenadines?

Though the temperature is steady, the humidity fluctuates throughout the year—the wet season runs from June through October, while the dry season goes from mid-November through April or May. That being said, St. Vincent and especially the Grenadines often avoid severe autumn hurricanes. As in the rest of the Caribbean, rates at luxury resorts are highest from December 15 to April 15. However, prices at smaller hotels, inns, and guesthouses usually remain the same year-round. Those looking to plan their visit around special events should consider the Mustique Blues Festival in January, the Bequia Easter Regatta in the spring, or Vincy Mas (St. Vincent’s carnival) in late June and July.

How to get around St. Vincent and the Grenadines

Several airlines offer non-stop flights into St. Vincent’s Argyle International Airport, including Caribbean Airlines (from New York’s JFK), American Airlines (from Miami starting December 15, 2018), and LIAT and SVGAir (from Barbados and St. Lucia). SVGAir also flies daily from St. Vincent to Bequia, Mustique, Canouan, and Union Island.

Ferries travel frequently between St. Vincent and Bequia, with some—including the Jaden Sun fast ferry—continuing on to Canouan, Mayreau, and Union. Additionally, visitors can rent a car on St. Vincent and Bequia, reserve a “mule” (beach buggy) on Mustique, or take a taxi on Canouan and Union Island. The other islands are walkable.

Food and drink to try in St. Vincent and the Grenadines

Dining in St. Vincent and the Grenadines is almost always a casual affair, the exception being a handful of high-end resort restaurants, where women don sundresses and men are required to wear long pants and collared shirts. While some large resorts also offer sophisticated international cuisine, the majority of restaurants here focus on fresh-caught fish, lobster in season, local vegetables, and fresh fruit. At small inns and local restaurants, you can also find barbecued or baked chicken, grilled fish, mutton or fish stew, and curried goat, typically accompanied by rice and peas, root vegetables, plantains, green salad, and “bakes” (biscuits). For a snack during the day, pick up a roti (a meat- or vegetable-filled turnover) or some fish and chips.

The official national dish is fried jackfish and roasted breadfruit. A common substitute for potatoes, the ubiquitous breadfruit is also often served mashed, boiled, or even in a salad. Sunset is the local rum brand and Hairoun is the local beer.

Culture in St. Vincent and the Grenadines

St. Vincent has a turbulent history. Carib Indians once controlled the rugged island, thwarting French and English colonization until the 18th century. (On a visit to Fort Charlotte, north of Kingstown, you’ll notice cannons aimed inward, where most Carib attacks originated.) The English ultimately prevailed, taking over the island and forcing the natives into slavery. On the eastern coast near Georgetown, you can still see Black Point Tunnel, where slaves hand-carved a shorter route between the sugar works and the sea.

St. Vincent and the Grenadines earned its independence in 1979. Today, it’s a peaceful nation that enjoys a good party, especially in late June and July when locals come together to celebrate Vincy Mas (St. Vincent’s carnival) with costumes, parades, music, food, and the annual naming of a king and queen.

Can’t miss things to do in St. Vincent and the Grenadines

On St. Vincent, you’ll learn a lot about the nation’s history and people by visiting Fort Charlotte, touring the Botanic Garden, and simply walking around Kingstown. Adventurous visitors can attempt the climb up La Soufrière (the volcano that covers about a third of the island), but everyone should get out on the water and visit the dazzling Grenadines. Each island has a different appeal, but all are ringed with powder-soft, white-sand beaches and an aquamarine sea with gentle surf. Sailing on your own or a chartered sailboat is ideal, but even a ferry ride is a delightful way to spend a day. Highlights include Tobago Cays, Saltwhistle Bay Beach on Mayreau, Basil’s Beach Bar on Mustique, and Port Elizabeth on Bequia.

Local travel tips for St. Vincent and the Grenadines

A Caribbean vacation doesn’t have to break the bank. Of course, there are high-end resorts scattered throughout the Grenadines—including two on privately owned islands and another geared toward the rich, famous, or royal—but those in the know choose from the many family-run hotels, inns, and guesthouses for a truly Caribbean experience. You’ll find the best ones—near a beautiful beach or colorful village—on St. Vincent, Bequia, Mayreau, and Union Island. Also, you don’t need your own yacht to sail around the Grenadines. Ferries are fun, frequent, and inexpensive.

Practical Information

To enter St. Vincent and the Grenadines, U.S., Canadian, and British citizens must present a valid passport and a return or ongoing ticket. The official language is English, and the currency is the Eastern Caribbean dollar (with a fixed exchange rate of EC$2.67 per US$1), although hotels, restaurants, and most shops accept U.S. dollars and major credit cards. The electric current is 220–240 volts, but large resorts and even some small hotels are also equipped with 110-volt outlets (U.S. standard).

Guide Editor

A freelance travel writer based in Connecticut, Jane Zarem has been traveling to—and writing about—St. Vincent and the Grenadines since 1995. She authored Fodor’s In Focus: Barbados & St. Lucia (now in its fifth edition) and currently covers several islands for Fodor’s Caribbean. Her travel articles, covering much of the globe, have appeared in various publications over the years, most recently in Rand McNally’s Getaway magazine and its Road Atlas. She is a member of the New York Travel Writers’ Association.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
A Carib chief and national hero, Joseph Chatoyer led revolts against British colonists in 1772 and again in 1795. During the latter revolt, his soldiers and their French allies were planning to attack Kingstown from Dorsetshire Hill, but British soldiers marched up from the city and attacked first, killing Chatoyer. Today, he’s memorialized in a monument on that very hill, overlooking the city he fought so hard to regain.
Near the wharf along upper Bay Street, a distinctive, street-level arcade connects several historic stone buildings, which once functioned as arrowroot warehouses. For centuries, these rows of Georgian stone arches and second-floor overhangs have sheltered Kingstown’s workers, walkers, and vendors from the hot sun and occasional shower—hence Kingstown’s nickname, the “City of Arches.”
The mother church of the Diocese of the Windward Islands, St. George’s Cathedral (also known as Kingstown Anglican Church) was built in 1820 on the site of an earlier church that was destroyed by a hurricane in the late 1700s. It’s the biggest church on the island and features a number of unique adornments, from a gilded wood chandelier to a brass lectern and a circular mahogany pulpit. It’s also home to a stained-glass window gifted by Queen Victoria. As the story goes, the queen initially commissioned the window for St. Paul’s Cathedral in honor of her first grandson but was horrified by the angel’s red robe and immediately sent the window abroad to St. Vincent.
One look at this hilltop fort, perched over the Port of Kingstown, and you know the British built it to fight the locals rather than to meet any threats coming by sea—all the cannons face the island’s rugged interior, where the Caribs lived. Inside the fort, you’ll find a series of murals depicting the bloody Carib wars. Kids will love exploring the old buildings, and everyone will enjoy the views.
North of Buccament Bay, a turnoff leads to Layou Petroglyph Park, where you’ll find Amerindian writings (or petroglyphs) scrawled on the side of a large boulder. The meaning of the carvings is unknown, but historians estimate that they date as far back as 300 to 600 B.C.E. Lush vegetation grows in the surrounding ridges, making for a fun area to explore. There’s also a small pool where you can take a dip to cool down.
Around since 1765, the St. Vincent Botanical Gardens claims to be the oldest of its kind in the Western Hemisphere. Tour the gardens with an informative guide, who will point out all the native and exotic plants growing here, including a breadfruit tree descended from the one Captain Bligh brought to St. Vincent in 1793. In the aviary, you’ll also be able to catch a glimpse of the colorful St. Vincent parrot—the island’s national bird.
Just a five-minute boat ride from St. Vincent, Young Island is both a private resort and the first in the Grenadine islands chain. Here, you’ll find a small, white-sand beach facing the channel that separates the island from the mainland. It’s technically for hotel guests only, but go for lunch at the very good beachside restaurant and bring your bathing suit—the resort won’t mind if you take a quick dip after your meal.
Within shouting distance of Port Elizabeth on Bequia, Princess Margaret Beach features a broad strip of white sand framed by palm trees and seagrape plants. Get here by water taxi, car, or a fairly rough cliffside nature trail, then head to Jack’s Beach Bar for lunch, happy hour, or both.
Even though it’s just 200 yards off the coast of St. Vincent and accessible via a two-minute ferry ride, Young Island feels worlds away from the cares of mainland life. The resort’s 29 guest cottages, which are outfitted with tropical-chic wicker furnishings, stone walls, and louvered windows, provide a plush landing spot after days spent diving among sea turtles and sea horses, hiking neighboring trails to spot the ruins of Fort Duvernette, and swimming up to the Coconut Bar, located on a floating platform 30 feet offshore. Each week, the on-site restaurant serves up Caribbean barbecue favorites like pigeon-pea-and-pumpkin stew, corn fritters, and molasses-glazed wings, making for a delicious stay.
While most of the Grenadines’ most luxurious hotels cater to the one percent, Salt Whistle Bay, on Mayreau, offers a blissfully pared back—though no less exclusive—experience. You’ll feel like a modern-day Robinson Crusoe when holed up in one of the 22-acre property’s eco-friendly bell tents or stone bungalows, each outfitted with colorful rugs, fans, and plush linens, and positioned to capture ocean breezes. By day, swim with sea turtles, sting rays, and tropical fish in the surrounding reef-filled waters—snorkeling masks are free to guests, as are stand-up paddleboards—or try kiteboarding on the resort’s designated beach. By night, share those adventures over a dinner of grilled lobster at the on-site restaurant and bar.