Seoul

South Korea’s capital city is a living, breathing mashup of history and modernity. Centuries-old courtyards hug the roots of brand-new high-rises, and traditional teashops vie with Starbucks for customers. You’ll find this contrast everywhere: from the glitz and glamour of the Gangnam district (which the world now knows thanks to Korean pop star Psy’s massive hit song “Gangnam Style”) to the grand, tranquil palaces of the Jongno area. The dynamic capital burgeons with inventive restaurants, galleries, and boutiques. Having rebuilt after the Korean War and hosted the world for the 1988 Summer Olympics, Seoul has now emerged as one of eastern Asia’s most vibrant cities.

SEOUL, KOREA - DECEMBER 31, 2016 -    Colorful billboards on the street of Seoul

Photo By DiegoMariottini/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Seoul?

Seoul’s humid subtropical climate has four distinct seasons, and there is no official off-season. Some say that the city is at its best in the spring when cherry blossoms bloom, while others prefer fall, when leaves turn into a fiery mass of red, gold, and brown. Winters can be brutal, but they lend the capital city a whitewashed beauty. Summer temperatures often rise into the 90s, with rain falling during the late-summer typhoon period. No matter when you visit, however, there’s plenty to do both indoors and out.

How to get around Seoul

Incheon International Airport is located in the city of Incheon, about 50 miles from downtown Seoul. The fastest way to Seoul is via the Airport Railroad Express train: It’s a bargain, at under $10, and you’ll be in the heart of Seoul in precisely 43 minutes. Buses (also $10) and taxis (at least $70) are available as well, if you are prepared to battle Seoul’s legendary traffic.

The Seoul subway is vast, yet easy to navigate. You pay by distance, and most rides cost between $1 and $2. Aboveground buses roll to every corner of the city for prices that range between $.75 and $2, depending on the route. It’s easy to find taxis waiting on every corner.

Tip: When hailing a taxi on the street, it’s more polite to flag it with your hand facing down, not up. Seoul is well connected to the rest of South Korea with excellent transportation options including high-speed trains.

Can’t miss things to do in Seoul

The N Seoul Tower rises from atop Namsan Mountain in the center of the city. Look for it to get your geographical bearings, or better yet, take the cable car to the top to get 360-degree views—on a clear day, you can see all the way to North Korea.

Food and drink to try in Seoul

Until relatively recently, it was unusual to find anything but strictly Korean fare in Seoul. While thousands of authentic Korean restaurants continue to serve up staples such as kimchi, galbi, and bibimbap, it has become easier to find Mexican, Italian, Indian, and Thai options as well. Street food is available on practically every corner, and you can fill your belly with dumplings, rice cakes, or deep-fried veggies for less than $5.

When it comes to drinks, cocktails and wine are growing in popularity but soju (a vodka-like distilled rice liquor) and beer rule. And did we mention that Seoulites love coffee? Every street is now peppered with cafes, from huge chains like Angel-in-Us to small independent shops.

Culture in Seoul

Seoul offers classic beauty in the form of countless palaces, courtyards, and other royal property that has survived the city’s modernization process. The city’s energetic art, fashion, design, and architecture scenes earned it a UNESCO World Design Capital designation in 2010, and you’ll encounter contemporary culture in galleries, boutiques, and public art installations.

Korea is a country that celebrates tradition, and the numerous local festivals are a testament to the people’s immense national pride. The Fireworks Festival lights up the sky over the Han River in October and the Lantern Festival brings a gorgeous glow to the banks of Cheonggyecheon Stream in November, but no matter when you go, your visit will likely coincide with some sort of celebration. In addition to classic and historic culture, Seoul is known for its style, boy bands, and a quickly shifting pop culture. Dip your toe into the scene with a Seoul Night Tour in Hip Hongdae from AFAR’s walking tour partner, Context.

Local travel tips for Seoul

Navigating your way through Korea, with it’s challenging-to-decipher Hangul alphabet, can be daunting. Fortunately, most signs in Seoul are also written in English, and many locals will be eager to help you find your way and practice their English. Visitors, remember this phone number: 1330. It’s the English-speaking tourist help line. The operators will help you with whatever you need, be it train schedules or directions to the nearest movie theater. Don’t hesitate to call day or night, no matter how silly you think your question is. They’ve heard it all.

Guide Editor

Leslie Patrick is a freelance writer who splits her time between South Korea and a nomadic life of slow traveling around the globe. Leslie writes about travel, culture and lifestyle, and her work has been published in Salon, Marie Claire (UK and Australia editions), Islands, Travel + Leisure, Monocle, United Airlines’ Hemispheres Magazine and various English language publications in Korea.

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
The COEX Complex in Gangnam is more than just a mall, convention center, and exhibition hall. It’s a few city blocks filled with cool buildings that will thrill those who have a penchant for unique architectural design. Perhaps the most iconic of the buildings in the COEX complex is the 54-story Seoul World Trade Tower. Used as a backdrop in the Gangnam Style music video, the tower is unique for its unusual ridged edge. It’s up to you whether to do a reenactment of the galloping dance while standing in front of the building. To get there, take subway line 2, and exit at Samseong (COEX) station.
Seoul’s City Hall is a swooping mass of glass and steel tucked snugly into the heart of the city at Seoul Plaza. This modern architectural marvel stands out starkly behind the small stone building of the Seoul Metropolitan Library—the building that previously served as city hall since Korea’s liberation from Japan in 1945. The man responsible for the design, Kerl Yoo, has commented that the building is supposed to represent Korean traditions as well as embrace the future. Not sure how exactly the newfangled monstrosity is traditional in any way, but it’s worth taking a stroll around the two structures to see the glaring contrast between old and new. Get there via the City Hall subway station.
Located in southern Seoul at the Sindorim Subway Station is D-Cube City. This retail monolith houses scores of shops and restaurants. There are the ubiquitous H&M, Zara, and Uniqlo, but also trendy Korean labels such as Bean Pole, Codes Combine, and Thursday Island. The food court is especially notable for the traditional Korean food section, where specialties like doenjang jjigae (a soybean stew) and pajeon (a green onion pancake) are served in surroundings meant to resemble a Korean folk village. Be sure to read the many signs and maps posted in English around the mall. My favorite? “D Cube City makes you feel like walking in the woods.” 662, Gyeongin-ro, Guro-gu, Seoul
Tucked away in the heart of downtown Seoul is the quaint Insadong district, where a Korea of yore comes to life in the form of traditional artists and musicians, shops selling Korean crafts and souvenirs, and street performers dressed in native costumes. This is the place to go if you’re set on buying the wooden masks, paper lanterns, and tea sets that the country is famous for. Two other stores also stand out from the crowd in Insadong: Gounjae Handcraft can be smelled before you even enter the door. This handmade soap shop, in the small brick courtyard of Ssamji Gil Center, offers sumptuously scented soaps, lotions, and bath products in scents like avocado, ginger, and almond. I love the tiny, traditional mask-shaped soaps that make inexpensive and lightweight souvenirs. The Ee Gee boutique is a veritable treasure chest bursting with glimmering necklaces, bracelets, and other one-of-a-kind baubles–it’s located on Insadong’s main drag.
An integral part of Korean culture, jimjilbangs, or bathhouses, offer much more than just a trip to the spa. Most are open 24 hours, functioning as a place for people to unwind and socialize. Expect unisex areas equipped with pools, showers, and massage services, all to be enjoyed in the buff. Those who find being nude in front of strangers intimidating can spend time in the coed saunas and relaxation rooms or at the in-house caf&eacute. For a quintessential experience, head to Dragon Hill Spa, located outside of Yongsan Garrison. A Western-style jimjilbang, it’s akin to an entertainment complex, with amenities like arcades, karaoke, and movie theaters.
The world’s largest indoor amusement park, Lotte World gets more than 7 million visitors annually. Seasonal festivals like the Rio Samba Carnival and the Happy Christmas Party dictate the themes of the daily parades and performances, while tons of rides—both indoors and out—keep guests entertained all day long. Other highlights include mega playgrounds, an ice-skating rink, a monorail, a folk museum, and, of course, lots of shopping. Visit on a weekday when it’s less crowded and lines are shorter, and remember to grab a map at the entrance in order to navigate the multilevel complex.
Opened in 2004, the Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art seeks to bridge the past, present, and future of art. The sleek complex consists of two wings, one dedicated to traditional Korean works and the other to international contemporary art. The traditional wing is shaped like a reverse cone, with a spiraling walkway that winds through galleries of ancient paintings, calligraphy, and crafts. In stark contrast, the glass-and-steel contemporary wing was built without supporting posts, encouraging viewers to move freely among distinctive works by Basquiat, Olafur Eliasson, and Takashi Murakami. The experience continues outside on the parking lot deck, where there is a polished sculpture garden.
Evidently Lord Stow’s Bakery is a Macau-based chain with a handful of locations in Asia, but we weren’t aware of that as we found it while strolling through Seoul on a frigid February morning. We simply saw the cute-as-a-button, closet-sized space with tarts in the window and went in, seeking heat and a bite to eat. The one worker (I don’t think there’s room for more) had just pulled these eggy little delights out of the oven. It was the perfect time to eat them. Warming, subtly sweet, and served with a friendly welcome, they—and the young woman who made them—were a simple yet memorable part of our super-quick visit to Seoul. The address: Kim’s Pass Co Dae Hyun 60-8 Dong Suo Dae Mung, Seoul
Seoul’s War Memorial Museum is a massive complex that can easily eat up a history buff’s whole day. The big-ticket items—tanks, planes, missiles—are outside; inside is a complete history of military actions in Korea. One really cool thing is a replica of Admiral Sun-shin’s “turtle warships,” ironclad fighting boats used in the 16th century. The bulk of the place is taken up with the Korean War, with tons of films and photos that can get a little overwhelming for the unprepared. Korea was a suburb of hell from 1950 to 1953, and no punches are pulled here in showing just what it was like. It might be best to head for a park after your visit, to decompress and remember that it’s always business as usual for the trees.

One of the most distinctive buildings in central Seoul is the 33-story Jongno Tower, a triangular glass and steel tower topped with an oval floating above seven stories of emptiness. Across the street is the traditionally reconstructed “Bo-shin-gahk” belfry, housing a large bronze bell. During the Joseon dynasty, the bell would be rung 33 times every morning, (symbolizing the 33 heavens of Buddhism), to open the city’s gates. At dusk, the bell would be rung 28 times (linked to the locations of constellations) to signal the shutting of the city’s gates. The original bell is now in the National Museum, but a reproduction still hangs here, and every December 31, it’s struck 33 times to ring in the New Year. The basement of the Jongno Tower connects with the subway and a shopping arcade, including “Bandi and Luni’s,” one of Seoul’s largest bookstores, with a good selection of English publications. While there is no public observation deck at the top, there is a restaurant/bar, and if you take the elevator to the top, you can linger for a few minutes in the foyer area to catch a view without having to buy anything. (Incidentally, Jongno Street, one of the city’s main east-west thoroughfares, means “Bell Street.” The bell’s been ringing here since the end of the 14th century.) To get here by subway: Take Line 1, exit Jonggak station. More info about the architect, Uruguayan Rafael Viñoly, and the architecture: http://www.rvapc.com/works/341-samsung-jong-ro-tower