Seoul

South Korea’s capital city is a living, breathing mashup of history and modernity. Centuries-old courtyards hug the roots of brand-new high-rises, and traditional teashops vie with Starbucks for customers. You’ll find this contrast everywhere: from the glitz and glamour of the Gangnam district (which the world now knows thanks to Korean pop star Psy’s massive hit song “Gangnam Style”) to the grand, tranquil palaces of the Jongno area. The dynamic capital burgeons with inventive restaurants, galleries, and boutiques. Having rebuilt after the Korean War and hosted the world for the 1988 Summer Olympics, Seoul has now emerged as one of eastern Asia’s most vibrant cities.

SEOUL, KOREA - DECEMBER 31, 2016 -    Colorful billboards on the street of Seoul

Photo By DiegoMariottini/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Seoul?

Seoul’s humid subtropical climate has four distinct seasons, and there is no official off-season. Some say that the city is at its best in the spring when cherry blossoms bloom, while others prefer fall, when leaves turn into a fiery mass of red, gold, and brown. Winters can be brutal, but they lend the capital city a whitewashed beauty. Summer temperatures often rise into the 90s, with rain falling during the late-summer typhoon period. No matter when you visit, however, there’s plenty to do both indoors and out.

How to get around Seoul

Incheon International Airport is located in the city of Incheon, about 50 miles from downtown Seoul. The fastest way to Seoul is via the Airport Railroad Express train: It’s a bargain, at under $10, and you’ll be in the heart of Seoul in precisely 43 minutes. Buses (also $10) and taxis (at least $70) are available as well, if you are prepared to battle Seoul’s legendary traffic.

The Seoul subway is vast, yet easy to navigate. You pay by distance, and most rides cost between $1 and $2. Aboveground buses roll to every corner of the city for prices that range between $.75 and $2, depending on the route. It’s easy to find taxis waiting on every corner.

Tip: When hailing a taxi on the street, it’s more polite to flag it with your hand facing down, not up. Seoul is well connected to the rest of South Korea with excellent transportation options including high-speed trains.

Can’t miss things to do in Seoul

The N Seoul Tower rises from atop Namsan Mountain in the center of the city. Look for it to get your geographical bearings, or better yet, take the cable car to the top to get 360-degree views—on a clear day, you can see all the way to North Korea.

Food and drink to try in Seoul

Until relatively recently, it was unusual to find anything but strictly Korean fare in Seoul. While thousands of authentic Korean restaurants continue to serve up staples such as kimchi, galbi, and bibimbap, it has become easier to find Mexican, Italian, Indian, and Thai options as well. Street food is available on practically every corner, and you can fill your belly with dumplings, rice cakes, or deep-fried veggies for less than $5.

When it comes to drinks, cocktails and wine are growing in popularity but soju (a vodka-like distilled rice liquor) and beer rule. And did we mention that Seoulites love coffee? Every street is now peppered with cafes, from huge chains like Angel-in-Us to small independent shops.

Culture in Seoul

Seoul offers classic beauty in the form of countless palaces, courtyards, and other royal property that has survived the city’s modernization process. The city’s energetic art, fashion, design, and architecture scenes earned it a UNESCO World Design Capital designation in 2010, and you’ll encounter contemporary culture in galleries, boutiques, and public art installations.

Korea is a country that celebrates tradition, and the numerous local festivals are a testament to the people’s immense national pride. The Fireworks Festival lights up the sky over the Han River in October and the Lantern Festival brings a gorgeous glow to the banks of Cheonggyecheon Stream in November, but no matter when you go, your visit will likely coincide with some sort of celebration. In addition to classic and historic culture, Seoul is known for its style, boy bands, and a quickly shifting pop culture. Dip your toe into the scene with a Seoul Night Tour in Hip Hongdae from AFAR’s walking tour partner, Context.

Local travel tips for Seoul

Navigating your way through Korea, with it’s challenging-to-decipher Hangul alphabet, can be daunting. Fortunately, most signs in Seoul are also written in English, and many locals will be eager to help you find your way and practice their English. Visitors, remember this phone number: 1330. It’s the English-speaking tourist help line. The operators will help you with whatever you need, be it train schedules or directions to the nearest movie theater. Don’t hesitate to call day or night, no matter how silly you think your question is. They’ve heard it all.

Guide Editor

Leslie Patrick is a freelance writer who splits her time between South Korea and a nomadic life of slow traveling around the globe. Leslie writes about travel, culture and lifestyle, and her work has been published in Salon, Marie Claire (UK and Australia editions), Islands, Travel + Leisure, Monocle, United Airlines’ Hemispheres Magazine and various English language publications in Korea.

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Seoul’s Folk Flea Market is a place where you can buy anything, I mean anything! This scary contraption looks like an invention of a comic book super-villain, but for the small price of 5 dollars you could be tightening those crow’s feet and zapping imperfections in no time! Huzzah! This is truly a special market—with more random wingdings than your grandparents’ attic. To get to the flea market, head to Sinseoldong Station on the light green line, Line 2. I recommend exit 10. After exiting, execute a U-turn, then walk straight for about 20 feet, take a right and walk straight for 280m. Along the way you will see vendors on the street and signage guiding you to the main building.
Dongdaemun, the old East Gate of Seoul, has been the site of a market for generations. Today, the double-roofed stone arch no longer marks entry into the city, but the capital’s residents still come here to haggle over everything from shoes to plumbing supplies and electronics. Food is not left out of the equation; although large produce markets are not found immediately by the gate, roving merchants wheel seasonal fruit in and around the incessant traffic. As evening rush hour neared, this particular cart was almost empty of its offerings, and the vendor seemed ready for the day to end... To get there by subway: Line 2, exit Dongdaemun Stadium Station, or Line 1 or 4, exit Dongdaemun Station.
In the middle of a metropolitan area of twenty million, Seoul’s historic Bukchon neighborhood has kept a traditional village feel. “Hanok"—traditional courtyard houses, with upswept tile roofs and latticed sliding doors—line the hilly streets. Some of them have been opened as small guesthouses. After a trans-Pacific flight, and then a bus ride into the city (from the new airport, built on reclaimed land in the Yellow Sea), I walked a few blocks up narrow lanes and through a wooden gate. I felt as if I’d stepped back into the Korean countryside of a century ago. A rooster and a rabbit shared the courtyard, filled with hydrangeas and herbs. A persimmon tree towered overhead. My room had sliding papered doors; a simple low bed and table; no TV...but free Wi-Fi! The friendly owner, whose family lives in one wing of the house, showed me the hot water machine where I could make instant ginseng tea and “ko-pi” (coffee). Not all hanok lodgings are so spartan. Behind the main courtyard of this house, a “sarang-chae” is also available—it’s like a mini-house (or casita), with its own private garden: rustic luxury. While staying here, I met an Israeli man and his Japanese wife on their way back to the Middle East, as well as a couple of professors of Indian languages from Seattle on their way to New Delhi. Bukchon is becoming more widely known as one of Asia’s urban gems. (For more information: http://www.seoul110.com/html_en/1.html)
Located below street level, the public space Cheonggyecheon offers an easy escape from the hustle and bustle of downtown Seoul. The area is part of a massive urban renewal project in which an old elevated highway was cleared to reveal the stream below. To find the entrance, look for Claes Oldenburg’s sculpture Spring Tower, which resembles a giant unicorn horn, and from there you can enjoy a serene 3.6-mile walk that meanders past art installations, graceful fountains, and green rest areas. Duck out at any point on one of the 22 overhead bridges that cross the stream, or walk to the end of the trail and visit the free Cheonggyecheon Museum to learn more about the area.
Myeongdong is a dizzying shopping mecca where every major Korean cosmetic and fashion brand has a store—or several. The Korea Tourism Organization estimates that more than 1 million visitors pass through the area every day. Anchored by the Lotte and Shinsegae department stores, Myeongdong is packed with stalls and shops, both above- and underground. Don’t worry about a language barrier—most salespeople speak English and will even try to lure you in with the promise of free goodies like sheet masks. (Remember to bring your passport to qualify for tax-free refunds at participating locations.) At night, the energy intensifies with mazes of neon lights and vendors selling street food like rice cakes, egg toast, tornado potatoes, dumplings, steamed corn, and anything that fits on a skewer.
Anyone who’s been to Seoul knows how coffee-crazed South Korea’s capital is: There are well over 200 Starbucks locations in Seoul alone! But this independent coffee shop, a few blocks down from the city’s medieval East Gate, takes it to a whole new level: “God in a cup!"—religiously (blasphemously?) dedicated in its quest for caffeination.
The National Museum of Korea is the largest museum in Korea and houses a comprehensive collection of Korean cultural artifacts that tell the story of Korea’s fascinating history, from ancient days to the modern era. There’s also the Children’s Museum—not only a wonderful playground and play space for children but also an impressive interactive exhibit that teaches children Korean history and heritage. Best of all, admission to the museum, including Children’s Museum, is free.
Seoul is a vast metropolis with an efficient public transportation system. In addition to major sites like temples, museums, and palaces, the city boasts unexpected gems including nature trails and mazes of alluring backstreets.
The speakeasy tradition is going strong here: dozens of lounges serve sophisticated cocktails in elegant settings, but traditional soju sipping goes on, too. Drinking is taken seriously in Seoul. So choose your poison (and drink responsibly).
There’s a reason that designers, chefs, and travelers love to dive into the boutiques, malls, markets, and designer shops of Seoul and that Gangnum Style was such a sensation back in 2012. It’s no secret: Seoul loves to shop.