Marrakech

Marrakech has attracted visitors for nearly a millennium. The city first grew rich from camel caravans that brought gold and salt from the Sahara Desert, but today its lifeblood is tourism. Travelers come seeking the street performers in the historic Djemaa el-Fna square, the winding alleys of the centuries-old medina, and the endless array of handicrafts. In between cultural excursions, they recharge in a boutique riad and discover the rich spices of Moroccan cuisine. And the Berber carpet of your dreams is just a haggle and a glass of mint tea away.

An historic souk on the streets of Marrakech

Courtesy of Club Adventures

Overview

Can’t miss things to do in Marrakech

Marrakech beats to the rhythm of the Djemaa el-Fna, the square at the heart of the medina. Here, snake charmers, acrobats, and street food hawkers create a vibrant fusion of sounds, sights, and smells. Life in the old city unfolds before you. Walk in one direction, and you’ll reach imperial palaces and the minaret of the Koutoubia Mosque; go another way, and you’ll find ancient tombs. Surrounding you are alleys and souks selling almost anything your heart desires. When the sensory overload demands a break, head to the tranquil Jardin Majorelle or a hammam for a steam and a scrub. Finish your day with some fluffy couscous and drinks at a chic riad.

Food and drink to try in Marrakech

Tajines and couscous taste better in their native land, and Marrakech serves both Berber dishes with plenty of gusto. But there’s a lot more to sample, from roasted meats to fish from the Mediterranean and Atlantic coasts. The medina offers a dizzying array of street food, while stalls in the souk practically overflow with sticky treats. You can always find a nearby café for a restorative glass of mint tea or a freshly squeezed orange juice. And for a libation that’s a little stronger, Morocco has a thriving viticultural scene dominated by reds. Pair one with grilled lamb or a slice of pastilla, a sweet and savory meat pie.

Culture in Marrakech

Marrakech’s culture plays out in a variety of ways. Listen to storytellers in the Djemaa el-Fna, and the call to prayer as it floats over the medina. Take in the ornate mosaics, carved stucco, and painted wood of the city’s ancient palaces. These highlights date back centuries, but Marrakech has also made strides in recent years to bolster its modern cultural presence. The Marrakech International Film Festival attracts big Hollywood (and Bollywood) names. And an ever-expanding group of galleries showcase the next generation of Moroccan artists.

Shopping

Marrakech’s numerous souks will make you wish you had a larger luggage allowance. The city is a haven for artisans, and you’ll find many open-air markets filled with stands and traders hawking all types of goods and souvenirs. Silver-tongued merchants unfurl a succession of rugs, each more beautiful than the last, and then debate the price down to the last dirham. If they’re feeling cheeky, they may try to sell you the camel they claim transported your new carpet. You can also browse silver jewelry, intricately worked leather, argan oil cosmetics, and filigreed lamps. As you wander, you’ll see both traditional designs and contemporary ones created by young Moroccan artists.

Practical Information

New Year and Easter are peak tourism periods. Spring and fall are best for their warm temperatures and long days. The heat in July and August can be oppressive so you’ll want to know the location of a good pool or two. During Ramadan, the logistics can be awkward for visitors since many restaurants close during the day. Visas are not required for visits of up to 90 days. Menara Airport has buses and taxis to the city center. Insist that city taxi drivers use meters. The languages are Arabic and French. The currency is the dirham; ATMs are widespread. Tipping is expected: a dirham or two in a café and up to 10% in nice restaurants. Electricity is 220 volts, and sockets take round-pin European plugs.

Guide Editor

READ BEFORE YOU GO
HOTELS
Whether you’re looking for an oasis-like pool villa or a high-design room in the heart of the Medina, each of these 12 best hotels in Marrakech exudes style, sophistication, and superlative service.
AFAR’s picks for the 31 best new hotels in the world.
These five concierges in Paris, Hong Kong, Cape Town, London, and Marrakech reveal their favorite city itineraries that they usually only share with guests.
An insider’s guide to the riads of Morocco—and whether they’re right for you.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Spa lovers will enjoy spending a morning or afternoon getting acquainted with traditional Moroccan bathing and beauty treatments at a hammam. Traditionally, these public bathhouses and steam rooms were where both men and women would go for their weekly ablutions: to be first enveloped in olive oil–based soap infused with herbs, then exfoliated with a specially designed mitt, and finally slathered in a full-body clay mask mixed with rose water (hair washing optional). And while this is still an important part of the local culture, ultra-luxurious variations have crept in, especially at places such as the Royal Mansour, where you can bask in sensational interiors before forking out $350 for a hammam and massage fit for a king. The pool at La Mamounia’s glamorous hammam is one of the highlights, so allow plenty of time to make use of it before indulging in their luxury Evasion treatment, which includes an orange-infused olive oil scrub and amber-honey facial exfoliation for $130. If you want to try something a bit more local that still feels like a treat—at a fraction of the cost of the above—head for the Bains de Marrakech, which offers great value for what you get. A 45-minute hammam, including a ghassoul clay body wrap costs $24. Understandably, it gets extremely busy, so book ahead.
When in Marrakech it’s very difficult to resist the urge to shop, especially when it comes to carpets and textiles; the city probably has the best selection in all of Morocco. If you have nerves of steel, then the carpet souk on the Rahba Lakdima is a good place to start, but be warned that the traders in these parts are rapacious. If you prefer a rather less intense experience, head for Soufiane’s flagship store near Dar el Bacha, where you can view your carpets in the serene environment of a tranquil riad and then retire to the very sexy green-tiled rooftop for a glass of mint tea. For increasingly popular supersize Tuareg reed-and-leather mats, go to Kulchi (by appointment only), which has an extraordinary collection from the owner’s travels through the south. For gorgeous cotton bed linens and towels trimmed with delicate Marrakchi embroidery in muted shades—think aubergine, dove gray, and charcoal—Valerie Barkowsi’s (next door to Mustapha Blaoui) is the place to head.
It would be almost churlish to come to Marrakech and not experience Grand Café de la Poste. After opening in the 1920s, it fast became a lively brasserie and meeting place, and much of the rest of the neighborhood sprung up around it, establishing Gueliz as the city’s most fashionable quarter. After a revamp in 2005 brought a breezy, colonial-style vibe to the verandas (a smashing spot for an alfresco lunch) and transformed the first floor into a luxe wood-paneled bar complete with real log fireplaces, leather armchairs, and crimson rugs, it is today one the city’s most iconic haunts. The food is reassuringly comfortable, too, with staunchly Parisian dishes such as leeks vinaigrette, skate wing with beurre blanc and capers, and crisp-skinned roast baby chicken and chips topping the bill.
There are times when only a bowl of pasta will do, and those are the times to head straight for Pepe Nero, with its romantic orange-tree courtyard for alfresco eats and warren of more-intimate dining rooms. Note, the latter can sometimes feel a bit cut off from the main hub, so it’s arguably a better summer jaunt, but you can’t knock the food. Chef Khalid Robazza Essafa makes all his own pasta. The roast veal agnolotti (stuffed pasta squares similar to ravioli) is sensational, as is the lasagna and the eggplant Parmesan. The king prawn risotto has earned Essafa a devoted, local fan base, although out-of-towners have been known to rave about his tandem Moroccan menu, too.
Constructed by Studio KO architects to echo the weave of fine cloth, the Yves Saint Laurent Museum opened in late 2017 to great fanfare. It was particularly poignant because Pierre Bergé, the longtime partner and business head behind the late designer, had died less than a month earlier. No doubt he would have been delighted with what he saw, for the museum is a game changer with its fresh approach to documenting a subject. Many of Saint Laurent’s lauded haute couture prototypes are on display here against a sleek black backdrop, which makes them appear to almost float across the room, and the library is one of the best in the world on the subject of fashion. A separate auditorium hosts seminars, film screenings, and other events, and the café—simply called Le Studio—has become the lunch favorite of the city’s glitterati. Saint Laurent, you can’t help but feel, would have approved.
The city’s most emblematic daily flea market occupies a couple of old hangars on the road to the Palmeraie. Design-loving Marrakchis and their Western counterparts have haunted it for years, looking for bargains with which to decorate their homes. One section is dedicated exclusively to ancient cedarwood doors and wrought-iron windows—all of which can be shipped for a price—but it’s the smaller shops that offer up the real gems. Every time La Mamounia has been renovated, for example, much of its furniture and accessories end up at Souk el Khemis; it’s said locally that nearly everyone has some piece of memorabilia or other from the hotel in their home. These days it’s rather less reliable in terms of finding something fabulous, and prices have increased as traders have gotten wise to the desirability of tulip tables and chairs, butterfly chairs, and cowry-shell lanterns. But those prepared to dig deep and haggle hard are still likely to come away with a gem or three. Indeed, the main problem with spending a morning at Souk el Khemis is the ensuing need to buy a house to put it all in.
Often described as a “Little Paris,” Gueliz has grown into itself in recent years with many of the city’s designers and restaurant owners choosing to set up their flagship fronts there. The Rue de la Liberté is now shoulder to shoulder with fashionable restaurants such as Kechmara for live music, cold beers, and killer burgers; Bistrot Le Loft for platters of French cheese and charcuterie; and the swanky new Asian Resto-Lounge for Chinese steamed dumplings, sushi, and Thai classics; as well as the wine bar Le 68. There’s a Caudalie Spa for great pep-up facials and some must-visit boutiques for snagging made-in-Morocco gifts. Try Lalla, just across the junction at Boulevard el Mansour Eddahbi, for must-have handbags, weekenders, and clutches; Patisserie Al Jawda for delectable Moroccan pastries to take home; and Sidi Marrakech for men’s tailoring. Cross over the main boulevard Mohammed V, and you’ll hit Atika for Tod’s-style suede loafers—brilliant for traveling—in a kaleidoscope of colors. Then hit the Rue Vieux Marrakchi, home to stalwart Moor, for natty embroidered kaftans and cushions, and the envelope-pushing David Bloch Gallery, which showcases the best contemporary urban artists from North Africa.
It’s taken awhile for Marrakech‘s industrial quarter to establish itself as home to the best design workshops and ateliers in the city. It’s easy enough to get to, but petit taxis tend not to frequent its wide, blocky avenues, so getting back into town can be a pain. (Securing a driver who is prepared to wait or come back for you helps.) That said, it’s well worth the trip to shop with local tastemakers for furniture and housewares at flagship stores. Don’t miss Chabi Chic for groovy pottery sets; Le Magasin Générale for bigger items, such as the midcentury modern chairs and sideboards; and LRNCE for hand-painted vases that merge cubism with artisan savoir faire. Take in the ateliers of textile and garment makers, too, such as Angie Linen for gorgeous bespoke bed linens, and Salima Abdel Wahab and Topolina for a contemporary spin on traditional kaftans and must-have housecoats. Stop at Le Zinc, the neighborhood’s buzziest lunchtime bistro, before hitting Voice Art Gallery to peruse superbly curated exhibitions of North African and Middle Eastern contemporary artists.
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