Medellin

The secret is out: Medellín is one of the most desirable cities to visit in South America. A winding descent from the mountains offers a first glance at the city’s beauty. Once in its depths, visitors are seduced by the locals’ (known as Paisas) passion for music and dance, as well as their sincere kindness and affection. In the daytime, the temperature tends to be comfortable, so take time to wander through diverse neighborhoods, sample local cuisine, and sip on exotic fruit juices. Then when night comes to the streets, dance to the beat of salsa, vallenato and reggaeton.

Souvenir stand in Medellin, Colombia selling straw hats, bags, and sunglasses

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Overview

Can’t miss things to do in Medellin

There is much more to Medellín than meets the eye. The warmth and generosity of its people makes visiting a pleasure. To get in the local groove, spend time in one of the many downtown parks during the day and at night head to Parque Lleras and Parque Poblado, where dancing and rum cocktails make for an infectious night out. Delve into the “Boterismo” world created by famed local artist Fernando Botero, and visit the city’s very own fairytale castle. For an alternative Colombian experience, head out of the city to the traditional town of Santa Elena, or farther afield to the caves at Rio Claro or the lake at Guatapé.

Food and drink to try in Medellin

While traditional foods such as beans, rice, avocado, and arepa (a flat cornbread) are still the basics of Medellín cuisine, outside influences have begun to make an impact over the last couple of decades. Many areas have stuck with the old favorites bandeja paisa and menú del día, both of which are based on grilled meat, rice, and beans, and are typically washed down with a fruit juice or tinto (black coffee). In areas such as Poblado and in the adjoining town of Envigado, however, you can find restaurants carrying a selection of imported food and wine. Try aguardiente (firewater), a popular drink with a licorice flavor.

Shopping

There are two options when it comes to shopping in Medellín. The first is to head downtown to the sprawling markets at Parque Berrio metro station. Here you can find local traders peddling everything from electronics to trainers and dresses to soccer jerseys. For those who prefer calm to the chaos of a thriving market, one of the many swanky malls is the best option. While most have an abundance of famous retailers, Oviedo and El Tesoro also have independent boutiques and gift shops where traditional clothes and souvenirs can be purchased. Upper Parque Lleras is home to two streets of chic stores where locals sell handmade clothes and jewelry.

Culture in Medellin

As most locals will tell you, Paisas are the friendliest people in Colombia. Colombians in general are immensely proud of their country, and none more so than in Medellín. Here, residents are practically clamoring to talk with foreigners and you’ll be even more popular if you can speak Spanish. If not, you can make friends easily by trying their beloved aguardiente (firewater) and arepa (cornbread). Locals like to unwind by heading to the dance floor and you will not be left wanting for a salsa partner—or instructor, if that’s what you need—with whom to brush up on your skills.

Practical Information

Medellín is accessed via its international airport at Rionegro, which is a 45-minute drive from the city. Direct flights are available from many U.S. cities, with more opening up all the time. Once in Medellín, the best way to get around is on the Metro or by cabs, which are plentiful and inexpensive. The currency is the Colombia peso, and the language spoken is Spanish. Few people speak English, so it’s worth arriving with at least some essential phrases to get around and meet people. While Medellín is a lot safer than it was 15 years ago, certain places—like the neighborhoods surrounding the city, and downtown at night—should still be avoided unless accompanied by a local.

Guide Editor

Simon Willis is a travel writer and freelance journalist flirting with both South America and Europe. He has contributed to the Washington Post, Independent, Yorkshire Post, Colombia Reports and Argentina Independent, among other publications. Simon is a sports nut, and when he is not adventure-seeking he is following his beloved Barnsley Football Club.

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Medellín’s botanical garden is a 35-acre oasis of green amid the bustling city. Stroll through lush tropical vegetation, towering trees, and flowering bushes to a quiet, picturesque pond amid the gardens. Or peek into a butterfly farm, a maze, and an orchid exhibit beneath an arbor. The gardens are a public space for all sorts of activities like yoga, martial-arts classes, and outdoor movie screenings; a farmers’ market for organic goods takes place the first Sunday of every month. The park is also home to one of Medellín’s best restaurants, In Situ, which in addition to its normal gourmet fare sells lunchtime picnic baskets—complete with red-and-white-checkered blankets and a bottle of wine—to enjoy on the garden grounds.
This two-auditorium space—with adjacent performance venues—is a lot more than simply a place to catch great concerts. Part of Parque de los Deseos and constructed opposite the city’s planetarium, it emerged from a citizen initiative meant to reanimate Medellín’s social and cultural life. The idea is to foment learning and create awareness about various musical disciplines. It offers a number of free musical and dance training programs; children’s orchestras from underserved neighborhoods also present memorable open-air recitals here. Casa de la Música is one part of an equation that, little by little, has allowed life to improve in complex and marvelous Medellín.
The four huge red cubes set amid the verdant mountains around Medellín will seize your attention and pique your curiosity—they are pavilions that architect Alejandro Echeverri designed to house Parque Explora, a science museum that is rather a monumental toy itself. The goal was to strike a proper balance between wonder and learning—and to avoid at all costs the sort of place that quickly grows obsolete. The result offers a nice sort of carnival or market feeling in its wide-open spaces. Inside, the pavilions, aquarium, planetarium, and cool science and tech exhibits keep both wee ones and grown-ups entertained and awed.
Medellín’s urban renewal, following decades as one of the world’s murder capitals, has drawn international attention. Perhaps nothing symbolizes the revival more than the Metrocable, a system of cable cars that connect the city center to steep hillside neighborhoods that were once reckoned to be the city’s most dangerous. Grab a ride on Line K up to Santo Domingo and treat yourself to spectacular views. Once on the ground again, take a short wander around the neighborhood for a taste of the real Medellín and its friendly residents (known as Paisas), and see the small shops and the beautiful library whose original benefactor was the government of Spain. From Santo Domingo, another cable car continues to Parque Arví, an expansive nature reserve and weekend escape favored by overheated locals.
The Parque Lleras neighborhood is the throbbing heart of Medellín nightlife. The namesake park is tiny, but its surrounding blocks are packed with bars, restaurants, and clubs, many featuring terraces. Wherever you choose to go, it’s usually a high-energy, loud affair with thumping music and fruity cocktails. The area is ground zero for Medellín’s young, hip partyers, out to be seen; weekend dancing rarely ends before sunup.
Whether you are celebrating a special occasion or just for a spontaneous night of indulgence: Medellin is blessed with romantic dining spots. El Cielo, just opposite Parque Lleras, is as well-known throughout Latin America as its creator Juan Manuel Barrientos—a young chef synonymous with creating unforgettable experimental cuisine. Dishes are separated into ‘moments’ and are all created by his team of chefs and designers in his food lab. Diners can choose from either 10 or 15 ‘moments.’ Each dish has a lifespan of three months, after which it is replaced by a new, vastly different dish. Meanwhile Carmen, located a few blocks away, offers not only high-end, diverse cuisine but also a seductive interior and some extraordinary cocktails.
The name of this park, which alludes to going barefoot, is both description and invitation. Take off your shoes and tread among nature’s sublime textures in the park’s sandpits, Zen garden, fountains, and leafy grasses. You’ll also find a bamboo forest and an interactive science museum, but the biggest attraction is people-watching: children splashing in fountains, teens pitching woo, everyone soaking up the sun. A guided (barefoot) park tour offers insight into its history as part of a citywide renovation program.
With the temperature sitting pretty around 75 degrees at all times, walking around Medellín is pure pleasure. To get a deeper understanding of the history of and life in Colombia, don’t miss the Museo Casa de la Memoria, which recounts Colombia’s brutal civil war. After, head to the Parque de los Pies Descalzos, where you get to kick off your shoes and, like all the other kids and adults, run through fountains. For a stellar view, hop a Metrocable car to the neighborhood of Santo Domingo.
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This sobering museum reminds visitors that Colombia’s beauty, natural and otherwise, has often coexisted with civil war and its brutal violence. Galleries present stories and images as well as survivor, victim, and ex-combatant testimonies. Many artists have contributed portrayals of the war—but perhaps the experience with the strongest emotional impact at the museum is simply watching the videos in which victims of the violence tell their stories.