Montreal

Montreal is shaped by its stirred-up history, the constant flow of immigrants, and a cultural identity crisis. Is it a French city with an English twist, or the other way around? Even after 400 years of quarreling, no one really knows. But to Montrealers, this dichotomy only adds substance to the city. Neighborhoods like Mile End and Petite-Patrie are artsy and homey, while the McGill Ghetto thrives as an international student community thanks to the city’s five major universities. And of course there is Old Montreal, the one place in North America that could be mistaken for an ancient French village.

Aerial view of Montréal with the Biosphere Environment Museum

R.M. Nunes/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Montreal?

Its location far up the eastern coast of North America means this city is blessed with four very distinct seasons, each beautiful in its own way and with its own share of things to do (yes, even in the dead of winter, Montreal is alive with energy).

How to get around Montreal

Montreal’s airport is about 30 minutes from the city center via bus (with free Wi-Fi) or taxi (the $40 flat fare from the airport gets you anywhere you need to go within downtown).

Renting a car in Montreal is not recommended, as traffic is awful and finding parking nearly impossible. But a bicycle-sharing system, Bixi—the first of its kind—is blessedly extensive. The public transit system, STM, with its reliable network of Métro and buses, is easy to navigate and quite cheap (a 3-day pass costs $18).

Can’t miss things to do in Montreal

Skip the skyscrapers and high-end stores of downtown and head straight to Plateau Mont-Royal for artsy coffee shops, local designers, and delicious brasseries. This is one of the most picturesque neighborhoods in the city and definitely gives the best feel for Montreal’s vibrant city life.

Food and drink to try in Montreal

Montreal’s world-famous restaurant scene really is as awesome as people say. From exotic hole-in-the-walls in Shaughnessy Village to the French bistros of Plateau Mont-Royal, and from eateries that redefine poutine and the fine dining experiences of downtown to ethnic foods from around the globe, locals will tell you to pack your eating pants because you will need them.

Culture in Montreal

The massive Fine Arts Museum, with its touring exhibits and permanent collection of Canadian art, is the perennial favorite. And the whimsical Science Museum, in Old Montreal, offers fun stuff for kids and adults. Other popular highlights are the Contemporary Arts Museum, the Canadian Architecture Center, the Pointe-à-Callière Museum, and the McCord Museum.

Montreal could be called the festival capital of the world, with hundreds of festivals year-round, even during the cold months. The official season kicks off in June with Francofolies, a French music festival, and goes into fall, with Chinese Lanterns at the Botanical Gardens. Other notable events include Osheaga, Jazz Fest, Just for Laughs, the fireworks competition, and White Night. If you can, time your trip to catch a festival (or two).

Local travel tips for Montreal

Don’t let weather extremes keep you from discovering the city; as locals say, there is no bad weather, only bad clothing. Locals also know to never take a car—except to get outside the city, after rush hour. Montreal is very walkable, and your destination is most likely a quick Métro ride away. Also, do brush up on a few French phrases (Bonjour, Merci, S’il-vous-plaît). Many Montrealers really appreciate it when visitors acknowledge the city as French-speaking. You may be rewarded with warm smiles.

Guide Editor

Marie-Eve Vallieres

Marie is a native Montrealer trying to balance a deep love for her hometown and an unquenchable thirst for travel and discovery. She has been to more than 20 countries, lived abroad in both France and the U.K., and is always on the lookout for authentic experiences wherever she travels—especially if it involves chocolate. She blogs at To Europe and Beyond.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
HOTELS
This vibrant Québec city is experiencing a major hotel boom—and these are the best hotels to check into right now.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
If you grow tired of tasting your way around menus of typical Québecois dishes, Stash Café is an appealing alternative in Old Montréal. This budget-friendly Polish restaurant has the feel of an inviting tavern, with seating in old church pews. The menu consists of Polish favorites: perfectly prepared pierogis, kielbasa, and hearty borscht. If you are in Montréal on a gray winter day, it’s a menu that will warm you up before you bundle up again to continue your sightseeing.
The Château Dufresne might not be high on most visitors’ lists of sights to see in Montréal, but as it is just across the street from both the city’s botanical garden and the Olympic Stadium, you may want to drop in if you are in the neighborhood. The mansion was constructed from 1915 to 1918 in the Beaux-Arts style popular in Montréal in those years. The 20,000-square-foot building is modeled on the Petit Trianon at Versailles and is actually two homes in one, as the brothers Oscar and Marius commissioned side-by-side mansions. The château served several different purposes after the Dufresne family lived there, first as a boarding school and later as the home of the Musée d’Art Contemporain. Today many of the rooms have been decorated with early 20th-century pieces, and a permanent exhibition provides an introduction of life in Montréal’s East End a century ago. Temporary exhibitions cover a range of topics, including some that highlight the collections of prominent Montréal patrons and others that focus on leading artists in the city.
The cofounders of Want Les Essentiels—twins Dexter and Byron Peart—love Montreal’s food scene almost as much as the iconic apartment complex they call home.
Welcome to the teeny-tiny atelier of the Montreal-based brand, famous for their iconic crew-neck sweatshirts with a bow. Talk about a souvenir shirt that is neither cheesy (looking at you, moose t-shirts found everywhere in Old-Montreal) nor cheap-looking. Most female Montrealers I know pretty much live in this sweatshirt come wintertime. A high-quality staple that will certainly make for a great conversation starter back home.
Although Montreal‘s Mile End neighbourhood is rife with hip and fashionable restaurants and cafés, this one is different. This salon de thé plays in another league, where lines are blurred between tradition and modernity, and where everyone and their (grand) mother feels welcome. Originally a nightclub, the massive open space was converted to a Victorian tea room a couple of years ago; the love story between Cardinal and Montrealers has not faltered since. Understandably, some would say. With their tall windows, elegant furniture, purposefully mismatched dainty china and their friendly waiters, it’s no wonder people flock to this place. Cardinal serves 20 different kinds of tea, as well as a variety of baked goods including but not limited to the mandatory scones. Salted cakes, sausages and salads and sandwiches are also on the menu for the brunch types. Cardinal is the kind of place where a group of local girlfriends will go on a dark November afternoon to drink tea and catch up on their love lives. So don’t be surprised if you see a couple of them on your visit.
One of the most cost-efficient hotels in Montreal! Hotel ZERO1 is located in the heart of Montreal’s Festival District and minutes from Chinatown, Old Montreal, and the Latin Quarter - in other words, the location is unbeatable. Rooms are modest in size (it is a 3* hotel after all) but the decor is sober, yet stylish and very modern with apparent concrete walls and large windows. Some rooms even have a small kitchenette area. Good to know: the airport shuttle bus stops right across the street.
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