Montreal

Montreal is shaped by its stirred-up history, the constant flow of immigrants, and a cultural identity crisis. Is it a French city with an English twist, or the other way around? Even after 400 years of quarreling, no one really knows. But to Montrealers, this dichotomy only adds substance to the city. Neighborhoods like Mile End and Petite-Patrie are artsy and homey, while the McGill Ghetto thrives as an international student community thanks to the city’s five major universities. And of course there is Old Montreal, the one place in North America that could be mistaken for an ancient French village.

Aerial view of Montréal with the Biosphere Environment Museum

R.M. Nunes/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Montreal?

Its location far up the eastern coast of North America means this city is blessed with four very distinct seasons, each beautiful in its own way and with its own share of things to do (yes, even in the dead of winter, Montreal is alive with energy).

How to get around Montreal

Montreal’s airport is about 30 minutes from the city center via bus (with free Wi-Fi) or taxi (the $40 flat fare from the airport gets you anywhere you need to go within downtown).

Renting a car in Montreal is not recommended, as traffic is awful and finding parking nearly impossible. But a bicycle-sharing system, Bixi—the first of its kind—is blessedly extensive. The public transit system, STM, with its reliable network of Métro and buses, is easy to navigate and quite cheap (a 3-day pass costs $18).

Can’t miss things to do in Montreal

Skip the skyscrapers and high-end stores of downtown and head straight to Plateau Mont-Royal for artsy coffee shops, local designers, and delicious brasseries. This is one of the most picturesque neighborhoods in the city and definitely gives the best feel for Montreal’s vibrant city life.

Food and drink to try in Montreal

Montreal’s world-famous restaurant scene really is as awesome as people say. From exotic hole-in-the-walls in Shaughnessy Village to the French bistros of Plateau Mont-Royal, and from eateries that redefine poutine and the fine dining experiences of downtown to ethnic foods from around the globe, locals will tell you to pack your eating pants because you will need them.

Culture in Montreal

The massive Fine Arts Museum, with its touring exhibits and permanent collection of Canadian art, is the perennial favorite. And the whimsical Science Museum, in Old Montreal, offers fun stuff for kids and adults. Other popular highlights are the Contemporary Arts Museum, the Canadian Architecture Center, the Pointe-à-Callière Museum, and the McCord Museum.

Montreal could be called the festival capital of the world, with hundreds of festivals year-round, even during the cold months. The official season kicks off in June with Francofolies, a French music festival, and goes into fall, with Chinese Lanterns at the Botanical Gardens. Other notable events include Osheaga, Jazz Fest, Just for Laughs, the fireworks competition, and White Night. If you can, time your trip to catch a festival (or two).

Local travel tips for Montreal

Don’t let weather extremes keep you from discovering the city; as locals say, there is no bad weather, only bad clothing. Locals also know to never take a car—except to get outside the city, after rush hour. Montreal is very walkable, and your destination is most likely a quick Métro ride away. Also, do brush up on a few French phrases (Bonjour, Merci, S’il-vous-plaît). Many Montrealers really appreciate it when visitors acknowledge the city as French-speaking. You may be rewarded with warm smiles.

Guide Editor

Marie-Eve Vallieres

Marie is a native Montrealer trying to balance a deep love for her hometown and an unquenchable thirst for travel and discovery. She has been to more than 20 countries, lived abroad in both France and the U.K., and is always on the lookout for authentic experiences wherever she travels—especially if it involves chocolate. She blogs at To Europe and Beyond.

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Montréal’s culinary scene includes chefs who represent the best of Québecois cuisine, marrying Old World techniques and New World ingredients—the bounty of the province’s farms, game from its forests, and fish from the Atlantic. What may come as a surprise, however, is the global diversity of the restaurants in this decidedly cosmopolitan city.
What makes Canada so spectacular is more than what you might imagine. From Montreal’s bagels to the Northern Lights, these are the best places to visit in Canada to authentically immerse yourself in the country.
Running for more than eight miles through the southwest part of the island of Montréal, the Lachine Canal is a window onto the city’s industrial history, reborn in recent decades as a place where nature and the city meet. Originally opened in 1825, the canal, with its five locks, allowed ships traveling between the upper St. Lawrence River and the sea to avoid the treacherous Lachine Falls. (Before the canal opened, ships would typically off-load their cargo at the village of Lachine, which would then be loaded onto another ship on the other side of the falls.) The canal’s banks would soon be filled with small factories, but by 1950 the area had started to decline, in part due to the success of the railway. In 1970, it was closed to shipping completely. Recent efforts to clean up the canal have been successful, and now bikers and walkers take advantage of the paths that line it, while many of the former factories and warehouses have been converted into luxury lofts and condos. In 2002, the canal was opened to boats again—pleasure crafts, not barges—that travel its length. If you decide to explore the canal, the Atwater Market was one of the early projects to redevelop the area, and it remains a great place to buy all the items needed for a picnic.
Opened in 1880 as Canada‘s first natural history museum, the Redpath Museum has a charmingly old-school Victorian quality to it. The collection of artifacts assembled by intrepid explorers ranges from taxidermy and Egyptian mummies to geological samples and—one of its most prized possessions—a handwritten letter from Charles Darwin. The museum is located at the heart of McGill University, long one of Canada‘s most important institutions of higher learning. Most of the buildings on campus, all in a handsome gray stone on a lovely bit of green in downtown Montréal at the base of Mount Royal, date from the 19th and early 20th centuries.
George-Étienne Cartier may not be a household name for many people outside of Canada, but he is recognized there as one of the founders of the nation. The 19th-century lawyer was crucial to rallying the country’s francophone population to the cause, and his impact on Canada included everything from helping negotiate the creation of the province of Manitoba to introducing legislation that established the Canadian Pacific Railway. His life and achievements are celebrated In this house where he lived from 1848 to 1871. It also provides a glimpse of what daily life was like for Montréal residents in the Victorian era.
With a playful menu divided into sections named “warm-up,” “game,” “set,” and “match” sections, Le Filet volleys some exceptional dishes at guests. Opened in 2011, the restaurant specializes in seafood but does an equally good job with meat dishes, including duck and venison. It comes recommended highly by Ritz-Carlton concierge Simon Bajouk.
A Montreal favorite, this wine bar is known for its elegant food and drinks— and comes recommended highly by Ritz-Carlton concierge Simon Bajouk. The wine selection is vast and the staff is extremely helpful in guiding visitors to something that they like. “Trios,” aka flights, are another good way to taste through a well curated selection. (Cocktails and local Quebecois beer are also available.) The food ranges from snacks like gougeres and nuts to porcini arancini and short ribs. A dish of green beens with truffle oil and almonds was fresh, light, and delicious; the charcuterie plate was a generous offering of various local salumi.
When Bouillon Bilk first opened in 2011, Montréal’s restaurant critics were intrigued. The chef, François Nadon, had worked at several of the city’s top restaurants but was largely unknown, and the restaurant was located on an undistinguished stretch of boulevard St-Laurent. But it soon became both a critical and popular favorite. The contemporary, minimal space is decidedly unstuffy compared with many of Montréal’s leading restaurants. Similarly, the menu may be gourmet but it’s also daring, with ingredients and preparations from Asia complementing French dishes and techniques. You can start with Japanese yellowtail, move on to a pasta dish, and end with a selection of Québecois cheeses, if you choose. There are also fresh oysters on the menu at both lunch and dinner.
Handily situated two minutes from the subway, and at the junction of three of the city’s most popular tourist neighborhoods, the Hotel Place d’Armes makes for an easy, car-free vacation. Situated in a beautifully restored stone building with intricate gargoyles, pillars, and oversize arcade widows dating back to 1870, it was originally the Great Scottish Life Insurance Company building. The rather masculine formal lobby gives way to plenty of cozy nooks and inviting couches, with a pool table on offer for those who fancy a game. Guest rooms feature original, exposed brick and stone walls, and the earthy natural palette is brightened by deep-red leather chairs and couches. The Place d’Armes has an easy upgrade policy, so it’s worth asking for one upon check-in; most guests will get an upgrade on request, depending on availability. Throughout summer, the hotel’s rooftop Terrasse is one of the city’s most popular outdoor hot spots.
Le Petit Hotel is housed in a former leather merchant’s building that dates back to 1867 and boasts original stonework arches and pillars at its entrance. Truly a “petit” hotel, its 28 rooms are spread across four floors and divided into S, M, L, and XL. Although it’s small, the hotel packs a stylish punch, mixing century-old exposed brickwork and stone with funky hardwood floors and modern-day luxuries—from free Wi-Fi and iPod docks to platform beds and multi-jet massage showers. In the guest rooms, splashes of bold, sunny orange and black accents create a contrast to the fresh white walls. Situated in the heart of Montreal’s fashionable Old Port area, guests are just steps from much of the city’s best shopping, dining, and art.