Vienna

Imperial architecture and Old World charm invite visitors to explore Vienna’s streets, where musicians with violins play Mozart to patrons of outdoor cafés. Take a carriage ride on cobblestone avenues, through towering palace gates, past lofty Gothic churches buttressed by diminutive baroque houses with their chic shops. Step out at the center of the Holy Roman Empire and into the regal winter residence of the Hapsburgs for over 600 years. Don’t miss the Imperial Treasury, home to the Spear of Destiny, the lance that reputedly pierced the side of Jesus as he hung on the cross.

TravelGuides_Vienna_SandroGonzalez_Unsplash.jpg

Photo By Sandro Gonzalez/Unsplash

Overview

Can’t miss things to do in Vienna

Unlike many cities, Vienna has a true city center, with a key landmark as its centerpiece: the towering gothic cathedral known as Stephansdom, which dates to 1339. The city center, known as the 1st District, is an imperial village featuring most of the city’s great attractions: the Hapsburg Palace, impressive art museums (including The Albertina, Fine Arts, and Leopold), and the Spanish Riding School—home to the prancing white Lipizzaner stallions. The city of music and culture demands a visit to the Opera House. And for a literal overview of the city, ride the famous Riesenrad Ferris Wheel or climb the many spiraling steps to the top of Stephansdom for a lookout on the garden-terraced rooftops gracing the city.

Food and drink to try in Vienna

Viennese gastronomy is satisfying, whether you’re looking for hearty fare or haute cuisine. Try the famous Wiener Schnitzel at Figlmuller (“home of the schnitzel”), or sample bratwurst at street stands. Other traditional and filling favorites include Hungarian goulash and roasted pork, washed down with local microbrewery beer. Trendy restaurants offer contemporary interpretations of classic Austrian cuisine. Dishes featuring wild game dominate the menu at Wild, and Wrenkh serves only fresh, locally grown ingredients. An amazing variety of whole grain breads dominate bakery shelves. Austrian wine culture is highly developed; buy a bottle at Wein & Co. For dessert, have a slice of Sachertorte at one of Vienna’s many historic cafés.

Culture in Vienna

Vienna gave birth to some of the world’s most beloved musicians and artists, Mozart and Klimt among them, but the city isn’t resting on its cultural laurels. Art exhibits and cultural performances continue to break boundaries; take, for example, the 2013 Leopold Museum exhibit, Nude Men, where even the onlookers themselves were without clothing. Street musicians have been known to bring concert pianos to the street to play to passersby. Vienna is a virtual open-air museum, where the stunning architecture is nonetheless dwarfed by the spectacular art within. Of course, if your tastes tend toward the classical, a performance at State Opera is not to be missed.

Vienna’s enthusiasm for the Art Nouveau movement of art, design, and architecture is still evident throughout the city. Context, AFAR’s travel partner, offers a walking tour led by an art historian or architectect, Vienna 1900: The Golden Age of Art Nouveau, that explores the lavish style and the imprint it left in the city’s museums and on its streets.

Shopping

The most elegant of designer shops—Chanel, Gucci, and Hermes—are located on the pedestrian streets of Kartnerstrasse, Graben, and Kohlmarkt in the 1st District. Interspersed among them are famous cafés such as Hawelka and Demel, as well as restaurants and parks like the Rose Garden and Stadtpark, where you can rest and consider your purchases. Wander up to the Mariahilferstrasse for less expensive shops; here, you’ll find clothing, music, housewares, and more. If you’re visiting on Saturday, Naschmarkt, which dates to the 16th century, is famous for its flea market and antiques. The food section of Naschmarkt is open throughout the week, with many little stalls to choose from. Note that nearly all shops are closed on Sunday.

Practical Information

- Vienna is lovely any time of year. Spring, summer, and fall each have their own particular charms; winter, while quite cold, still attracts plenty of visitors, thanks to the city’s Christmas market and New Year’s Eve celebration.
- The official language of Austria is German, though nearly half the population speaks English well.
- The currency is the euro.
- Vienna International Airport receives flights from abroad and is just 11 miles from the city itself.
- You’ll likely need an adapter for your electronics, as Austria is 230 volts with F socket plugs.

Guide Editor

READ BEFORE YOU GO
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Vienna’s architecturally rich Inner City can lead to a visual overdose on baroque wonders. Those who venture to districts beyond its historic heart will find a great little discovery in the Hermesvilla in the Lainzer Tiergarten, a nine-square-mile wooded landscape and former imperial hunting grounds with resident boar and deer. The smaller of Franz Joseph’s retreats, the Hermesvilla was a gift to his beloved, quirky wife Sisi, who called it her “palace of dreams.” It is said that Franz Joseph built it to keep her from running all around Europe as she was wont to do. The interior still holds many original furnishings, and the small statue of Hermes in front of the villa inspired its name. (Note that the villa is closed in the winter, roughly from early November to late March/early April.)
Out of the tragedy of the plague arose the Karlskirche, perhaps the most magnificent of Vienna’s baroque churches. One of the final designs by Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach, the genius behind the Schönbrunn Palace, Karlskirche commemorates the outbreak of 1713. The Karl who gave the church its name was the Counter-Reformation’s Saint Charles Borromeo, who cared for plague victims in 16th-century Milan. The church dome, rising above two columns inspired by Trajan’s Column, is illuminated at night and is a prominent Vienna landmark which be seen from many points in the city. A vibrant fresco in the cupola by Johann Michael Rottmayr glorifies Saint Charles. On Karlsplatz, in front of the church, two of the legendary architect Otto Wagner’s finest art nouveau metro stations remain; one of them now houses a café.
When Mozart was a child, he performed here for Empress Maria Theresa; Franz Joseph I was born and died here, and his unhappy wife, Sisi, presumably sulked inside. Schönbrunn Palace, in the western Hietzing district, naturally invites comparisons to Versailles, as the Hapsburgs built it to rival the French palace. Today, the 1,441-room baroque masterpiece designed by Fischer von Erlach is a World Heritage site, with its Great Gallery and carriage museum among the draws. Its gardens are so vast that a small train takes you around to the palm house, an orangery, and a zoo. The recently renovated, columned Gloriette structure and its café look over the palace and, beyond, Vienna. Schönbrunn’s grandeur never ceases to impress—not bad considering that the palace was only a summer retreat for the Hapsburg rulers.
Gottfried Semper and Karl von Hasenauer may not be household names abroad, but in the Vienna of Franz Joseph’s time they were towering architects. The duo was responsible for the soaring cupolas and sweeping staircases of two stunning mirror-image cultural institutions on the Ringstrasse. In the Kunsthistorisches (Art History) Museum, famous stairwell-roof frescoes are by Gustav Klimt, and the rich assemblage of works includes Pieter Brueghel’s Tower of Babel, Caravaggio’s David with the Head of Goliath, and works by Dürer, Raphael, and Velázquez. The sister Naturhistorisches (Natural History) Museum is home to one of Europe’s oldest pieces of art: the famous Paleolithic goddess figure known as Venus of Willendorf. There are also displays that range from insects to dinosaurs and flora and fauna collected worldwide.
Based on an idea by Simon Wiesenthal and erected in 2000, British artist Rachel Whiteread’s Nameless Library in the Judenplatz sits in one of the most tranquil squares in Vienna’s Inner City. The simple, stark, 12-foot-high concrete block is dedicated as a Holocaust memorial. Since the Middle Ages, Viennese Jewish life centered around the Judenplatz, and excavations during the memorial construction revealed a synagogue that had been destroyed in the pogroms of 1421. The square’s Misrachi-Haus, with its baroque facade dating from 1694, is now a branch of the Jewish Museum Vienna (its main location is in the Palais Eskeles). Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach’s stately Bohemian Court Chancellery building and a monument to the Enlightenment author Gotthold Ephraim Lessing also face the square.
The name Fleischmarkt goes back to the medieval butchers who worked along this Inner City street. The surrounding blocks are still home to long-standing merchants like Mühlbauer Hut, a century-old hatmaker. Strolling the area also takes you to Vienna’s oldest church, the tiny Romanesque Ruprechtskirche. Located in a Biedermeier-era house, the nearby Stadttempel synagogue survived Kristallnacht. The Orendi-Hof at Fleischmarkt 1 is a stunning art nouveau building, followed a few doors down by Max Kropf’s richly detailed 1899 neoclassical building and then by a Byzantine-style Greek Orthodox church, all in one short block. In recent decades, the Fleischmarkt bar area gained the nickname Bermudadreieck—the Bermuda Triangle—in reference to tipsy revelers getting lost in its twisting alleys.
The Celts were in Austria long before the Romans were, but it was the latter who left a more lasting imprint. With a population of 30,000 at its peak, the Roman legion camp of Vindobona was considered the edge of the world. As old as the Roman presence in Vienna is, the Römermuseum only dates back to 2008. On the Hoher Markt, one of the oldest squares in the city (and one with a fabulous gilded baroque fountain), the museum lies right over the Roman officers’ compound. Displays on everything from cooking utensils to toys are enhanced with a 3-D film on life at the time. Across the square, the Ankeruhr, an intricate and gorgeous art nouveau mechanical clock, was erected in 1914 on a bridge joining two sections of the Anker insurance building.
This beloved Austrian dessert is more than a culinary classic—it’s a source of national pride.
Those Picasso and Monet paintings aren’t what they seem at this fascinating art museum. And that’s precisely the point.
With 24 hours’ notice, AFAR sent writer Tom Rachman to Vienna where, on his quest to discover 
the soul of the Austrian capital, he 
stumbled upon the city’s 
darker side.