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In the city’s once-gritty fishermen’s quarter, a group of activist chefs is reviving—and reinventing—traditional cuisine.

There’s a lot more to the San Fermín festival than the running of the bulls. In Pamplona, a skeptic learns what it’s really like to attend the biggest summer fiesta in Basque country.

It’s a ripple effect.

The Spanish capital will not disappoint—with knock-out museums like the Prado and Reina Sofia, art galleries, historic sites, busy and colorful markets, green spaces like Retiro Park—even if you just linger in the Plaza Mayor and people-watch, the city will win you over.

On a trip with a young traveler in tow, a writer reflects on her first Venice adventure—and how it changed her life.

The Spirit of Istanbul

For cross-country skiers, one winter destination rises above the rest: humble Hayward, Wisconsin, where, for a glorious weekend, their obscure sport is king.

With idyllic landscapes and quality highways, one the best ways to experience Ireland is by driving it. The uncrowded roads of Counties Cork and Kerry offer beautiful views of the rugged Irish countryside and coast. After passing through Cork’s small towns and kissing (or not kissing) the Blarney Stone, end the trip with a drive around the famous Ring of Kerry.

The scenery in the northwest of Ireland is wild, rugged and unlike anything in the rest of the country. Explore the dramatic headlands of Donegal, which stretch into the turbulent Atlantic Ocean, hike through Glenveagh National Park to spot eagles or red deer, or spend time in County Sligo, with its iconic mountain backdrops, lakes and waterfalls. This part of Ireland’s northwest inspired the poet William Butler Yeats, who spent much of his childhood in the area.

As you approach Mina street, just south of the 20 de Noviembre market in Oaxaca, the smell of chocolate fills the air. There are several chocolate grinding shops along this street. One of the most popular is Chocolate Mayordomo, where you can almost always see cocoa beans being ground to make the Oaxacan chocolate that is frequently consumed here. The shop attendant puts the cocoa beans along with some cinnamon sticks and almonds in the top of the machine and out the bottom comes a thick, rich paste, which he mixes with sugar. This is the very simple process by which Mexican chocolate is made. It creates a somewhat gritty product which is more suited to making hot chocolate than to consuming on its own, but since they’re giving out free samples, you may as well have a few pieces while you decide what kind you want to purchase to take home with you.

The county of Fife and the northeastern district of Angus are both a short distance from Edinburgh. Fife boasts royal connections and the iconic St Andrews Links, while Angus is home to the up-and-coming city of Dundee, which has recently emerged from its postindustrial strife to become a hub of innovative art and design.

Founder’s Note: Travel Like an American

St. Dymphna, a seventh-century peasant who was eventually canonized, is said to have founded the church that this atmospheric cemetery is centered around. Dymphna is the patron saint of mental and nervous disorders and if you’re uptight or have anxiety, Achill will definitely put you at ease. After all, this aesthetically pleasing cemetery isn’t the only reason to come to Achill Island, Ireland‘s largest island, located in County Mayo on the country’s western shores. There’s a ghostly deserted village, a 26-mile bike trail that leads you to the island (the Great Western Greenway, starting in the town of Westport) and people so friendly you’ll wonder what is in the water (or the Guinness). But the main reason to come to Achill are for the spectacular views. Drive around the periphery of the island—as I recently did—and prepare to be shocked and awed by some of the most stunning scenery your eyes will encounter while in Ireland. You’ll pray to St. Dymphna that luck and fortune will bring you back here some day.

You will need a head for heights to visit Slieve League; at 600 meters (2,000 feet), these are the fifth-tallest sea cliffs in Europe. What makes them so special is that they are also some of the most accessible ones. Nearly three times higher than the Cliffs of Moher in County Clare, they offer gasp-worthy views of the swirling waters of the Atlantic Ocean. On a clear day you can see as far as County Sligo or the coast of County Mayo. Only experienced walkers should tackle One Man’s Pass, a narrow trail that reaches the highest point, but there is a network of easier trails for visitors of any ability to enjoy.

Despite the moniker, fries are 100% Belgian. At least that’s what locals and expats alike believe. Having lived in Brussels for six years, I ate my fair share of frites. Mayonnaise is the sauce of choice for most, but me? Oh la la. I prefer the Sauce Andalouse ---Mayonnaise mixed with tomato purée and pimento. In a word---yum! The best way to eat them is from the numerous frite stands that dot the city scape of Brussels. Hot out of the oil, wrapped in a paper cone, there is nothing better.