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When I stepped into the grand lobby of Québec’s Le Château Montebello, I felt like I was entering Paul Bunyan’s living room. Giant timbers braced a three-story-high ceiling, and a massive fireplace in the center radiated warmth in all directions. After checking in, I joined the guests gathered around the six-sided hearth and sank into a leather club chair. I spent the rest of the day by the fire, sipping hot toddies and napping, as the comfort of the crackling flames sent me and the other fireside dozers snuggling deeper into our cushions. I had come to ski some of the 65,000 acres of wooded backcountry that neighbor the resort, but the château was so welcoming, I found it hard to leave.


Often described as the world’s largest log cabin, the lodge and two other main buildings were constructed in 1930 from 10,000 red cedar logs and 500,000 handmade wooden shingles. The houses and the vast surrounding forests were long owned by the politically prominent Papineau family, and until 1970, the estate remained a private nature retreat for Canada’s upper class. As I walked through the château’s halls, the intricately carved banisters and exposed beams reminded me of the great western lodges in the U.S. national parks—only without any grumpy tourists demanding to know where the animals are.

In the guest rooms, deluxe amenities such as flat-screen TVs and rain-dome showerheads upstaged anything found in Yellowstone or Yosemite. Despite the modern perks, rawhide lampshades and other rustic details helped my suite retain its frontier appeal. When I got up to pull the plaid drapes closed that night, I watched a horse-drawn sleigh pass by, glowing in the moonlight against the dark ribbon of the frozen Ottawa River.

Without fresh snow to ski the next morning, I was left to explore the lodge’s other activities. I opted out of getting scrubbed with maple sugar at the spa or unsuccessfully flirting with French-Canadian women by the fire, and instead devoted the day to learning the inscrutable rules of curling. The château has an indoor ice rink dedicated to the sport, a national favorite that’s best described as a combination of shuffleboard and falling down a lot. My instructor was Henri, a kindly sexagenarian who, like many in Québec’s western Outaouais region, seemed more comfortable speaking French than English. As it turns out, kindly reassurance sounds the same in either language. But as my backside repeatedly hit the ice, Henri’s patient polyglot insistence that I was doing “une belle job” grew progressively less convincing.

After my rough-and-tumble day, I dined in the white-tablecloth Aux Chantignoles restaurant. Québecois cuisine dominates the menu, and I followed a dinner of tender venison osso buco with a slice of Québec’s famously sweet and jiggly sugar pie—think pecan pie sans pecans. Snow fell just in time for me to ski through the nearby forest on my last day. I spent a long afternoon there, gliding among stands of birch, pine, and spruce in the rolling Laurentian Highlands. Now and again, I paused to admire one of the countless frozen lakes, their smooth surfaces dotted with tracks left by moose and white-tailed deer. I skied in the silent wilderness until just after sunset. As the scent of a wood fire began to tickle my nose, I grew eager to cozy up by the hearth again. I turned back toward the château’s stone chimney, its rising plume of smoke signaling for my return.
This appeared in the November/December 2010 issue.

“She’s an original yet timeless Québec fashion designer—a rare combination. Marie Saint Pierre is known for using unusual fabrics with soft colors as well as black and white. Her designs feel really classic. I stop in when I need something chic and comfortable,” says Nathalie Bondil, head curator at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts.

Fashionistas and heavy spenders heading to Montreal will have no trouble finding pieces worth writing home about; the city being of the creative type, it’s no wonder so many designers set up shop in this part of Canada. Stroll along Boulevard Saint-Laurent and Notre-Dame Ouest for some of the best shopping in Montreal, with gender-defying, high quality, and unique pieces awaiting.

When the Hôtel du Vieux-Québec poured nearly $3 million into renovating what was once an 18th-century nunnery in 2014, it was already recognized for its green leadership and sustainability: it’s the only carbon-neutral hotel in the province and the only one in Canada to use 100 percent biofuels. Today this boutique property on Rue Saint-Jean, convenient to all old-city attractions, furthers its ecocommitment with features like rooftop gardens that not only grow organic produce for its clients and employees but help with cooling. The hotel keeps five beehives as part of the Urban Honey Project, which helps pollinate city gardens, and the honey is used at the hotel restaurant. All of the 45 rooms and six apartments are unfussy yet comfortable, and even standard rooms have mini-fridges and a work desk. Guests are particularly fond of the continental breakfast basket that’s hung from your door each morning (so long as you book directly through the hotel) and the espresso maker and fresh fruit available anytime in the lounge.

Perched on Laurier Boulevard in one of Quebec City’s main commercial districts, the Hôtel Plaza Québec draws its fair share of business travelers. But it’s an even better choice for families thanks to its indoor swimming pool and hot tub set within a ground-level tropical garden; there are also two play rooms, a movie room, and regularly scheduled activities for the young set. While standard rooms are cozy enough for solo travlers, larger accommodations range from suites with kitchenettes to loft-apartments that can sleep as many as 13 people. Drop your bags, then take advantage of the hotel’s proximity to Old Town’s most popular attractions (about five miles away), as well as the impressive Aquarium du Quebec and the Parc de la Plage-Jacques-Cartier, with its riverside beaches and walking trails.

Panache at the Auberge Saint-Antoine hotel in Lower Town was long one of Québec City’s most celebrated restaurants, a special-occasion favorite of locals and visitors, located in a cozy and historic 19th-century warehouse with wooden beams and stone walls. In June 2017, the restaurant was rechristened Chez Muffy, after one of the inn’s co-owners. The same chef is at the helm, Julien Ouellet, who is known for Canadian and French dishes that make the most of local produce. (The menu is changed every two months to highlight whatever is in season.) With its farmhouse inspiration, you’ll typically find venison, duck, and other gamey options, but Ouellet usually has at least one vegetarian entrée, often made with ingredients grown on his farm on the Île d’Orléans. The hotel’s Bar Artefact, named for the items on display that were unearthed during an excavation of the site, is an ideal place to extend your meal with a cocktail before or after you eat.

This hotel is on our list of The 10 Best Hotels in Canada.

First opened for business in 1912, the iconic Ritz-Carlton Montreal—known as “the grande dame of Sherbrooke Street"—began a $200 million facelift in 2008, opening its doors again in 2012. Quebec’s most luxurious and historic hotel could tell endless celebrity secrets but is, of course, far too discreet to utter a word. It’s no secret, though, that Elizabeth Taylor married Richard Burton here, that the Rolling Stones rented the entire sixth floor in 1972, and that a who’s who of world leaders, movie stars, and royalty are still regular guests. Situated in the downtown culture and shopping hub that is the Golden Square Mile, the hotel oozes money-is-no-object luxury from every pore: from the ornate duck pond and immaculately manicured garden and terrace to the 100-year-old chandeliers, the sweeping staircases, and the belle époque golden glow of the lobby and palm court. Rooms have a white-and-gray minimalist palette with splashes of signature purple. Antiques and original features blend with ultra high-tech design such as Japanese Toto toilets in all bathrooms, heated floors, and motion-sensor lighting.

The province of Quebec is notorious for its quaint, picturesque villages. The compact forests and the thousands of lakes in the Laurentides region certainly make for the picture-perfect Canadian postcard, including the beautiful lakeside chapel in Saint-Alphonse or the wholesome locals of Old-Town Saint-Sauveur. On the other hand, the rolling hills of the Eastern Townships are as bucolic as it gets: villages like Hudson, with its gourmet market, microbrewery and century-old houses have a slight England feel, as does nearby Sutton. However, the ultimate wintery escape from Montreal surely is Quebec City, with the snow-capped Château Frontenac, 400+ year old historic center and festive winter Carnival every February.

Enjoy a drink by the fire in après-ski bliss or dine on a spacious deck overlooking the green slopes on a long summer night—Whistler serves up plenty of tasty options for eating, drinking, and living the good life in this British Columbia mountain village.

A true neighbourhood institution, this dépanneur – Quebec’s answer to the corner store – has such a loyal following that within months they had successfully boycotted a 7/11 type of chain store that opened up across from it. The reason for the following, other than the staff’s boundless charm, is because you’ll find anything you could ever dream of needing in a pinch in this store, and much more: they make sandwiches and take-away meals here that will put your momma’s packed lunches to shame.

A Montreal favorite, this wine bar is known for its elegant food and drinks— and comes recommended highly by Ritz-Carlton concierge Simon Bajouk. The wine selection is vast and the staff is extremely helpful in guiding visitors to something that they like. “Trios,” aka flights, are another good way to taste through a well curated selection. (Cocktails and local Quebecois beer are also available.) The food ranges from snacks like gougeres and nuts to porcini arancini and short ribs. A dish of green beens with truffle oil and almonds was fresh, light, and delicious; the charcuterie plate was a generous offering of various local salumi.

If all you know about Toronto is hockey and the CN Tower, you are in for an eye-opening visit. Groundbreaking film festivals, fantastic architecture, a design community so strong that the city’s become a destination for innovators and buyers, art and cultural museums, unique neighborhoods and industrial districts that have been transformed—you won’t be able to leave without planning a second visit.

The little town of Baie-St.-Paul has been a haven along the north shore of the St. Lawrence since the 1670’s, when the French began settling here. Today, just a couple of hours from Québec city by car, it’s an artist’s colony full of charming galleries and restaurants. I hadn’t been here in over a decade when I brought my wife here for her first visit. The dramatic Charlevoix region (the rolling landscape northeast of Québec city) was one of her favorite areas, and we spent an afternoon here, reveling in the cool green, soaking up the contrast from home in Arizona...

The Carré Saint-Louis (also known as St. Louis Square) is one of Montréal’s most important literary streetscapes. Famed Québecois poets Émile Nelligan and Gaston Miron called this home. Brightly painted Victorian/Second Empire graystone rowhouses line the square—one of the best leafy spaces in the city. (It’s been called “the closest thing to a European neighborhood square you’ll find this side of the Atlantic” by the Project for Public Spaces.) A few blocks away is the fabled Schwartz’s Deli. Grab a “smoked meat” to go, then come here to chow down by the fountain, surrounded by trees and 19th-century façades. (The nearest subway is Sherbrooke station on the Orange Line.)

Under 20 minutes by car from Québec City (or, if you are feeling ambitious, less than an hour by bike, with most of the ride on a well-maintained path), Chute-Montmorency (Montmorency Falls) is the area’s most impressive natural wonder. If you visit the Musée National des Beaux-Arts du Québec before you go, the sight will look familiar: Montmorency has long been a popular subject for local painters. Think Niagara is impressive? The cascade here is a full 99 feet higher—272 feet to the Horseshoe Falls’ 173 feet. In winter, spray from the falls freezes into a hill at its base, known as the Sugarloaf, and snowshoes are available for rent if you want to explore the nearby trails. In the summer, there’s a zip line for those in search of an adrenaline bump. Year-round, a cable car carries passengers to the top of the falls, providing bird’s-eye views en route.