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If Stockholm epitomizes cool, then the 19th-century Lydmar Hotel has somehow managed to improve upon that ideal. How many hotels give each floor its own distinctive living room—a private lounge away from the bustling lobby that buzzes with a stylish city’s most beautiful and well-connected denizens? And how often is that lobby also an art gallery, a worthy destination in itself and a gateway to rooms where the likes of Damien Hirst would feel right at home? Surely it’s rare to find a rather small hotel like this—home to three of a city’s hottest bars, including two with unobstructed waterfront views of the Royal Palace and surrounding harbor. Few are bold enough to acknowledge that the best spa in a city that celebrates wellness is located next door in another hotel, and that it would be better to get its own guests unfettered access to that luxurious haven than to try to build its own. The Lydmar is a hotel unlike any other.

Fresa’s Chicken al Carbon is an Austin-owned restaurant serving charcoal-grilled, locally raised chickens, freshly prepared tortas, salads, sides, homemade ice creams, aguas frescas, and a selection of beer and wine. The family-style meals feature the highest quality pasture-raised birds from Vital Farms. Either marinated in achiote and freshly squeezed citrus or rubbed with fresh oregano and cracked pepper, the chicken is grilled slowly over hardwood charcoal and served with house-made tortillas, rice, beans, and fresh salsas. Don’t leave without ordering the cajeta churros for dessert!

Hit Seven Mile Beach, a beautiful and—as the name would suggest—long stretch of shoreline to see why it’s one of the Cayman Islands’ most fabled features. Facing out to sea, you’d be forgiven for thinking you were beholding a life-size Rothko installation, with bands of the palest aqua, the richest cobalt and every gradation of blue-green in between. Also keep an eye out for the schools of fish that sprint along the water parallel to the shore.

Outside of Carnival time, you’ll find very little in the Caribbean that’s actually open 24/7. Major hotels and resorts are the exception, of course, though even they don’t usually offer much of anything to eat that doesn’t come by way of room service.

Not so at the Jamaica Pegasus. One of Kingston’s leading business hotels, the Pegasus is where I found the 24 Seven Cafe.

It was ungodly late... Saturday night... the jerk chicken I’d devoured earlier in the evening a distant memory.

24 Seven Cafe to the rescue! Sandwiches, muffins, sweets, and what must be some of Kingston’s finest ice cream are all on offer here anytime, day or night.

Drink selections range from coffee, tea, sodas headlined by the local fave Ting to Red Stripe and a few other beers for those who want to keep the party going. 24 Seven Cafe is located in the lobby of the Jamaica Pegasus hotel. Night owls won’t want to miss it.

The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes. ~ Marcel Proust. For my inaugural highlight on AFAR, I am starting with my wife’s favorite quote, and a local sight in Chicago. Sometimes people feel they must jet off to some far off exotic place in order to ‘travel.’ However, if you gaze anew at your immediate surroundings with fresh eyes, you will discover an entire host of wonderful surprises. Here we have Cloud Gate, located down in Millennium Park, back before they buffed out the seams. The contrast between the organic form of ‘the bean’ and the structured grid lines, along with the warped fun house mirror quality of the city, makes this a truly unique destination.

A year ago I had dinner at the Clifton, then under the supervision of Tucker Yoder. Mr. Yoder was elsewhere that evening, but I spent several hours at the “chef’s counter” in the kitchen, watching executive sous-chef Jarad Adams work his own delicious magic. Naturally Mr. Adams was meticulous with his food prep, but he was also surprisingly generous with his time for me. Imagine my delight when I returned this year to find Mr. Adams had been promoted to Executive Chef. On this visit, Mr. Adams’s tasting menu showed the same attention to detail as I remembered, but with a greater sense of adventure — even whimsy. From the amuse bouche (a spoonful of polenta topped with pork belly, apple, and a sprig of fennel) all the way through to the sticky toffee pudding with candied pecans, dates, and caramel ice cream for dessert, I was enchanted. The tasting menu consists of four courses and varies by the season. My first course was a toss-up between the butternut squash and apple soup and the shaved winter vegetable salad with hazelnuts, black cocoa, and a buttermilk dressing. I had no regrets about my choice of the salad, especially as butternut squash was the foundation of my next course: the most perfectly seared sea scallop I can remember. From there it was onto monkfish with beluga lentils, with Brussels sprout leaves dancing on top. Mr. Adams knows what he’s doing in the kitchen, and the Clifton — and Charlottesville — is lucky to have him.

Italy’s beloved region of Tuscany brings to mind bucolic vineyards, rolling hills, and roads lined with towering cypress trees. But there’s plenty else to delight and even surprise travelers. Consider the quaint town of Punta Ala: located along the southern Tuscan coast, it’s under the radar of most travelers, yet the go-to summer escape of generations of Romans and Florentines.

Punta Ala strikes a balance between relaxation and understated elegance that encourages lingering, and the same goes for its premier place to stay: Baglioni Hotel Cala del Porto. Set against the backdrop of the Mediterranean Sea and with two adjacent beach clubs (La Vela and Alleluja), the hotel’s 38 airy rooms offer views of the gardens and marina. In the heart of Maremma, Hotel Cala del Porto is perfectly located for day boating trips out to the island of Elba, wine tasting at notable Tuscan wineries, and some of the best golfing in Italy. The regional park Bandite di Scarlino beckons with hiking trails ideal for early morning risers.

Chef Roberto Solís’ menu showcases the area’s fresh ingredients including fish, lobster, cooked in the flavors and spices that have driven Maya Caribbean for centuries. Located inside the Hotel Casasandra, the restaurant’s setting is as warm as the service. Pair dishes with some locally-produced wines or a mezcal margarita. Thanks to his colorful ingredients and artful plating, Chef Solís’s dishes tend to be as appealing to the eye as they are to the palate.

The dyeing vats at Chouara—as well as at the city’s other tanneries—are among the Fes medina’s most iconic sights. The ancient craft of tanning and dyeing, in all its visceral authenticity (cow urine and pigeon poop are still key components in the process), plays out much as it always has. Chouara has been around since the 11th century. The dyes used in the tannery pits are natural: Blue comes from indigo; red, from poppy or paprika; yellow, from saffron, pomegranate, or even a mix of turmeric and mimosa flowers. The best vantage point for observation is from one of the roof terraces. Leather shops hawking everything from butter-soft leather babouches (iconic Moroccan backless slippers) and poufs, to copies of designer jackets and handbags. (That Hermès Birkin bag, or a facsimile of it, could finally be yours at a fraction of the price.) Although the guides around here are a tenacious lot, don your best smile, carry a posy of mint to hold beneath your nostrils, and settle in for a long chat with the shopkeepers to learn about fascinating process. Expect prices in the shops to vary wildly—much depends on your haggling prowess. A favorite store is the aptly named La Belle Vue de la Tannerie, off the main drag. The shop has sought out skilled tailors with European know-how to create items of better quality using all Moroccan hides, which results in better leather goods. The tailors can copy a motorcycle jacket for you in three or four hours from goat or lambskin, the softest of the hides.

D&Department, a youthful shop housed in a 13th-century Bukkoji temple, focuses on designer housewares, kitchen goods, and foods. Conceived by Kenmei Nagaoka, a professor at Kyoto University of Art and Design, and his students, the store sells products such as sturdy tea mugs and glass tokkuri (Japanese sake sets), and highlights specialty, small-batch food producers whom they’ve met in person. The result is a special range of sesame seed oils, additive-free pickles, and heirloom misos and soys. D&Department will occasionally include imported products that adhere to the founders’ ethos, such as durable Freitag bags from Switzerland, which are made from recycled truck tarps.

Opened in 2010 by a Dutch couple, Baoase Luxury Resort is an intimate spot with fewer than two-dozen rooms. Despite its size, however, it has all the amenities of a larger property, including a spa, health center, boutique, and more. A 10-minute drive from the center of Willemstad, the Balinese-style spot feels secluded and tranquil, especially when swimming off the lagoon-like beach or sitting next to the banyan tree in the lantern-lit garden.

Privacy and a high level of service are very important here. Only during low season are non-guests welcome at the resort, and even then, they must have a reservation for a beach-day pass. All rooms come with outdoor space overlooking the gardens or pools, and half feature private plunge pools. For something even more discreet, book the exclusive island in the Spanish Water Bay, which features its own four-bedroom retreat. When not relaxing in your room, you can ask the hotel to arrange a motorboat and permit to use during your stay, or visit the on-site restaurant, which is known for beachfront fine dining and a weekly Asian cuisine night. If all the privacy leaves you feeling extra romantic, you can even have the restaurant set up a picnic dinner to enjoy on the beach or under a gazebo.

You can swim to your overwater bungalow through a magical turquoise lagoon filled with colorful tropical fish when staying at the Sofitel Kia Ora Moorea Beach Resort. The lagoon here is clearer and more turquoise than anywhere else on the island, and free of jet skis and other watercraft, allowing underwater life to flourish untouched.


This is also one of the Islands of Tahiti‘s most affordable overwater bungalow options, made even more accessible by the fact that Moorea is easily reached via high-speed catamaran from Papeete in Tahiti, where international flights land. Moorea’s natural beauty is emphasized at this understated resort where the traditional thatched-roof bungalows have a Polynesia style with modern decor, like extremely comfortable beds and stone tile rain showers in the bathrooms.


Although a decently large resort, with more than 100 bungalows, the best are the overwater digs, which have glass panels for viewing fish and direct access into the lagoon from a ladder into the crystal-clear water off the private terrace (if you’ve seen the Real Housewives of Orange County, this is the resort the women stayed at on their trip to Tahiti and Moorea). The resort has three distinct restaurants and bars that convey the spice of Tahitian life.


Taking center stage is internationally themed “Pure”, which focuses on fresh seasonable produce. Tailor-made for romance, “K” is an intimate gourmet restaurant option, showcasing the freshest local produce in elegant and refined settings. While the “Vue” cocktail bar offers an idyllic venue to relax and enjoy a leisurely drink with a ‘view’ of the lagoon. There’s also a branded Bollinger champagne bar on the pier, and an infinity swimming pool and spa with wonderfully blissful treatment options.

Graceful palms and lush gardens greet guests at Grotto Bay Beach Resort. Situated on 21 acres, this peaceful colony of cottage-style rooms overlooks the beautiful blue water of Bailey’s Bay in the Parish of Hamilton. Tangerine salt body scrubs, sweet milk and lavender facials, and hot stone massage will melt away all of the exertion of snorkeling excursions, golfing, exploring the resort’s on-site cave, or bicycling around the island. On the other hand, why not take it easy and lounge by the pool, which features a swim-up bar, or on one of the resorts private beaches. Dine among the island ambience of palms, rattan furnishings, and ceiling fans in the Hibiscus Room or Palm Court Dining Room. Afterwards, you can enjoy drinks and tropical breezes on the terrace before retreating to guest rooms outfitted in bright prints and tropical tones.

Hopkins Bay Resort is located on the beach right near the town of Hopkins; accommodations include one-, two-, and three-bedroom beach houses. Local art and polished mahogany furniture signal that this is no cookie-cutter chain hotel. The spacious houses are perfect for families or small groups traveling together. Resort activities include dance and music performances that reflect the traditions of the local Garifuna people, descendants of Africans brought to the New World as slaves. Staff can also arrange excursions to numerous cultural and historic attractions, not only in and around Hopkins, but also to iconic sites such as Xunantunich, a Maya site, and the Blue Hole, one of the world’s most popular destinations for scuba diving.

March 5th, 2008 If you want steeps you go to Jackson Hole, right on the other side of the mountains. But routinely, as the storms moved toward the east, they dump even more on this side of the range. There isn’t a whole lot of difficult terrain, but as you can see here, its around if you look for it. I look for it... to avoid it. haha. As a solid Blue Square, sometimes Black Diamond skier, Grand Targhee offers a good amount of terrain and probably a chance to ski in the knee-deep.