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Why we love it: A 900-year-old fortress-cum-prison reimagined as a luxurious getaway

The Highlights:
- Historical details like artifacts, original ironwork, and a stone arch bearing the seal of Abdul Hamid II
- A fourth-floor infinity pool with uninterrupted views of the Mediterranean Sea
- A full-service spa with a Turkish hammam

The Review:
Located right on the main square in the old city of Jaffa, The Setai Tel Aviv is steeped in history. Built by the Crusaders as a fortress in the 12th century, the property later served as a kishle (jailhouse) under the Ottoman Empire, then a British command post during Israel’s War of Independence. When it became a hotel, the original building, with its stone corridors and inner courtyards, underwent a meticulous restoration that included archaeological digs to uncover several artifacts, which guests can now see in the lobby. Those eager to learn more about the hotel’s history can also walk through the large entry arch, crowned by the seal of Abdul Hamid II, or check out the stone-and-iron prison cells behind the grotto-like lobby bar.

Spread over three newly created floors, the 120 rooms and suites feature an Ottoman-inspired design, complete with richly colored Turkish rugs, laser-cut pendant lamps, dark wood furniture, and sleek, textured headboards. Spacious bathrooms further the luxurious vibe with granite sinks, large bathtubs, and separate rain showers. Elsewhere on property is Jaya, where guests can indulge in an ample breakfast buffet and new-Mediterranean kosher food for lunch and dinner; former prison yards that serve as the hotel’s stunning front and rear courtyards, with comfy seating among verdant lemon trees; and a basement spa, which boasts a traditional Turkish hammam. Still, the hotel’s principal amenity has to be the fabulous infinity pool with panoramic views of the Mediterranean and downtown Tel Aviv—sunsets here are nothing short of spectacular.

The founders of Soho House and the developers behind such buzzy hotels as New York City’s The NoMad teamed up to turn the historic Midland Bank building into—what else?—a one-stop lifestyle hub that’s drawing regulars of both the suit-and-tie and hipster variety. Part-hotel, part-member’s club, The Ned (named for the moniker of legendary, 19th-century architect Edwin Lutyens, who first envisioned the building) features eight dining options set around the former banking hall, from Italian, French, and Californian spots to a New-York-style deli, Pan-Asian favorite, and lounge for an overflowing, British-style Sunday feast, complete with a Bloody Mary bar and mimosa trolley. Hotel guests also have access to a downstairs bar, and a wellness level with a nail bar, gym, separate hair salon and barbershop, Cowshed Spa, traditional Moroccan hammam, and vitamin IV drips by The Elixir Clinic. The spa level also features an indoor pool, while the Ned’s Club Upstairs offers a rooftop pool and restaurant (with views out to St. Paul’s Cathedral) to Club members or those staying in higher-category rooms.

The entire property is done up in cool, vintage-inspired design, including the 250 guestrooms, which range in category from Crash Pad and Cosy to Heritage and six types of suites. All feature 1920s flair, such as mirrored cocktail cabinets, wingback chairs, and Jazz Age motifs, as well as marble-mosaic bathrooms stocked with rainfall showers and 10 full-size Cowshed products. Suites have bonus perks like dining areas, bathtubs, and upgraded views. Take all the pictures you want in your room, but Insta-addicts may want to leave their phones behind when in select public areas: there’s a photo ban in any place that’s part of the Club membership, including that stunning rooftop.

Routinely crowned the city’s top seafood restaurant, Blue Water Cafe is also among the continent’s best. After honing his skills at Michelin-starred restaurants in Europe, executive chef Frank Pabst opened this Yaletown classic to marry fine-dining techniques with local, sustainable ingredients. Eventually, the restaurant became a founding member of the Ocean Wise program, which helps consumers make ocean-friendly seafood choices. When visiting, you can belly up to the bar—which boasts more than 200 whiskeys and 1,000 wine labels—or reserve a table in the elegant brick-and-beamed dining room, housed in a heritage warehouse. Come summertime, however, you’ll want to head straight to the patio for sushi and premium sake. Fancy a splurge? Go for the seafood tower, which showcases the bounty of British Columbia.

It’s no coincidence that walking around Liberty feels as if you’re exploring someone’s grand home; the department store’s founder, Arthur Lasenby Liberty, wanted to create that very feel, and so in 1875 settled on a Tudor-style building that featured a jumble of interconnecting rooms. A wooden staircase at one end connects the six floors, and a paper room sells stationery in the store’s iconic floral Liberty print, fashion and beauty halls, a cafe, and multiple branded treatment rooms. Still, it’s the florist’s shop outside that seems to provide the main draw; as any passing tourist will attest, its colourful array of blooms is highly Instagrammable.

Most of the year, Punta Cana’s white, sandy stretches of sand are blessed with gently lapping surf, which means that night swimming isn’t as dangerous or daunting an exercise as it can be on other Caribbean islands. Slip into the water near the Westin’s covered pier, and have the ocean all to yourself. Under the bright light of a full moon, you might even catch a glimpse of a sea turtle inching its way along the beach.

Korčula Old Town claims to be the birthplace of the famous explorer (view his birth registry in the Bishop’s Treasury). The island celebrates this not only in its Marco Polo Museum, but at this Marco Polo-themed shop where you’ll find a plethora of creative souvenirs, like a selection of local spices, 1,000 grains of salt or bottled local seawater.

The beach may be the magnet that draws crowds to Trancoso but its the Quadrado that is the heart of the town. The town square sits atop a hilltop offering stunning views of the mangrove forest and sea below. The 1,050-feet-long green park is anchored by the town’s iconic white church and bordered by 50 or so Crayola-colored old fisherman houses. During the day most of the homes stay shuttered due to the heat. But by 5pm, particularly during the peak summer season, they open their doors to reveal chic boutiques and art galleries, restaurants, and pousadas like Uxua and El Gordo. At sunset wild horses graze in the square sometimes interrupt the local kids’ soccer game. The square is filled with crowds after sunset, and artists and artisans come out to sells their goods while musicians come to play music and capoiera dancers come entertain passersby.

Located a few blocks from Courthouse Square and Whiskey Row in downtown Prescott, about 100 miles north of Phoenix, the Motor Lodge is ideal for a retro road trip. The 13-room lodge began life around 1910 as summer cabins. After a century of serving as all manner of accommodation, it was purchased in 2008 by Joe Livingston and Brian Spear, who set out to prove it had at least one more life as a modern boutique hotel, complete with comfy beds, tastefully eclectic decor, flat-screen TVs, and free Wi-Fi. One of the few hints that this is no longer an old-fashioned motor court is the bright yellow exterior doors and other splashes of color that suggest a more modern era. Still, there are throwbacks—some delightful (the room porches which are close enough together, and few enough in number, that chats with people who might otherwise remain strangers seem the neighborly thing to do) and some not so much (the tiny bathrooms in most of the rooms that would have passed without comment in earlier decades). Mostly, though, the two hosts seem to be striving for, and achieving, a hospitality that often becomes a guest’s strongest memory.

Driving in any direction on the Hummingbird Highway, it would be hard to miss this white shack surrounded by cars, in a small clearing immediately next to the road under the shade of a very large tree. Ms. Bertha’s Tamales has little signage, but no signs are needed for locals. Everyone knows about Ms. Bertha Lisbey and her tamales. They are said to be the best in Belize. One of her spiced, gooey chicken-and-corn tamales is a perfect break. Pair it with a hot sauce she has been making almost as long as the tamales, and a cold soda in a glass bottle.


Since Ms. Bertha is now 75 years old, some days it is her daughter who’s the one serving loyal customers and first-time visitors, drawn by the stories that you’ll hear in every corner of the country. The small shack can serve hundreds of tamales a day during peak season yet each one is prepared with the same attention and love. Everyone sits on benches, patiently waiting their turn. There aren’t many places to stop along the Hummingbird Highway, but that’s not the only reason you shouldn’t pass by Bertha’s without turning in. Make sure you stop.

There are two Paradise Beaches on Kos. One is northeast of Kefalos. It’s quite nice with facilities, a bar, and crystal clear waters. The other is southwest of Kefalos. It’s also quite nice with facilities, a bar, and crystal clear waters. The difference is the first one is very easy to get to and prone to getting covered in a crush of humanity while the second one (pictured above) is found at the end of a loooong, winding, dirt road (complete with sheer drops!) and only very lighted spotted with a few clothing optional occupants. Don’t worry, the way is clearly marked with signs pointing the way to Kavo Paradiso Beach FKK. FKK of course short for Freikörperkultur — a German movement whose name translates to Free Body Culture. Now when I say it has facilities, I mean it has around 7 or 8 umbrellas to rent with accompanying chairs. And when I say it has a bar, I mean it has a teeny-tiny shed manned by a blissfully quiet Greek fellow selling Mythos beers for 2 euros a bottle. And when I say it has crystal clear waters, I mean it! This was by far my favorite beach on a recent trip to Kos and well worth the death defying drive to reach it!

Spectacular sands—making up the longest stretch of beach in Hawaii—sweep for 15 miles starting here, fringed by postcard-perfect turquoise water. This patch of ocean is rough, rowdy, and perilous: Watch for sneaker waves as you stroll along the coast. Swimmers should stick to the Queen’s Pond, an area girdled by a protecting reef. But the big attraction at Polihale Beach remains the dunes, which can pile up to 100 feet high. In summer, hot sand can slip into your shoes, causing burns; savvy beachgoers wear only wool socks, according to Andrew Doughty, author of the excellent Ultimate Kauai Guidebook. Make sure to pack plenty of water—and also an umbrella, if you plan to linger.

Ancient Hawaiians believed their souls would leap into the spirit world from this lava shoreline on the western tip of Oahu. These days, people jump off here in gliders instead, soaking up views of the Waiʻanae coast to the south, Mokuleʻia to the north—and the glorious, denim-blue Pacific stretching from here to eternity. Take a 5.4-mile round-trip hike and check out the albatross sanctuary on Kaʻena’s wild coastal acreage (free to visit). Keep an eye out for monk seals, one of the world’s most endangered species, found only in Hawaii. Watch for their silvery-gray sausage shapes as they lounge on the beach, but give them space. Always retreat if a seal awakes, vocalizes, shies away, or tries to shield a pup.

This restaurant is such an institution that it predates the city’s most iconic landmark—the Hollywood sign. In a way, Hollywood was born in Musso & Frank’s red booths, back when the famed boulevard was still a dirt road. The restaurant opened in 1919, and much of the menu remains from the first chef, Frenchman Jean La Rue, who used to specially prepare fettuccini alfredo for silent film stars Douglas Fairbanks and Mary Pickford. Only two executive chefs have held the job since. Dinner dishes such as lobster thermidor and grenadine of beef take you back half a century, while chicken pot pie (on Thursdays only) and steaks, cooked on L.A.’s oldest open-fire grill, taste comfortingly familiar. Don’t miss brunch, which features Greta Garbo’s favorite Flannel Cake, a cross between a pancake and crepe invented by chef La Rue in the 1920s. In keeping with the authentic vintage spirit, martinis are strictly stirred—never shaken—and served with a mini glass sidecar containing the rest of the drink in its own tiny ice bucket. Pro tip: Order the off-menu slow-roasted prime rib, finished on the mesquite grill and served rare.

Each time I visit this beach, I am enchanted anew. These beautiful sands, sea, and cliffs are exotic. I sit on the sand watching swimmers, surfers, boaters, and fishermen. I watch the birds happily flying around. I stare at the brilliant blue sky with its puffy clouds gliding by. And I gape at the huge cliffs that tower over all of us.I collect the rare rocks with white stripes running through the stone that are unique to the area. This is Castelejo Beach on the western coast of Portugal where there are many rugged, wild beaches. From Lagos, you go west to Vila do Bispo and follow the signs to this beach. The road is rugged and narrow and ends just above the beach with a parking lot. Get a good map of the area at your hotel. Hungry? The Castelejo Restaurant is at the top of the path to the beach. This restaurant serves octopus dishes and other fresh seafood. If you are there at sunset you will be lucky enough to see this gorgeous beach bathed in glowing light. Try to visit this beach when in the western Algarve.

When on the road in south or southwestern Morocco, you may notice a tourist bus that has pulled over and discharged a busload of passengers to run dashing through the trees with their cameras. What might be happening? The answer is simple: tree-climbing goats! Let me explain the trees first -- A huge cottage/co-op industry in Morocco is the production of argan oil, derived from the seed kernel of the fruit of the argan tree, endemic to Morocco. The argan tree grows wild in semi-desert soil and is extremely well adapted to drought and other difficult growing conditions of the region. The species Argania once covered much of North Africa but is now endangered and under protection of UNESCO. Argan oil is valued for its nutritional, cosmetic and medicinal properties, and could be considered one of the rarest oils in the world due the very small growing region. OK, now I’ll explain the goats. Goats love the fruit of these trees so much that they use their climbing ability to get far up into the trees to eat the fruit. Prior to the adoption of modern processing methods, argan oil was once produced by collecting the undigested kernels passed by the goats (sorry, just had to mention that!). Be sure to shop for some of the wonderfully rich lotions and creams made from argan oil; and look for handcrafted soap as well.