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We were offered the chance to visit Pompeii or Herculaneum when we docked at Sorrento. People rave about Pompeii because it’s absolutely huge and gives you a great sense of just how sophisticated Roman civilisation was. Herculaneum, by contrast, was a Roman seaside town, a sort of holiday resort, and doesn’t offer the same kind of scale. Still. I remembered my Latin lessons, and how we’d learned that while Pompeii’s buildings were smashed and burned by the falling volcanic ash, Herculaneum was actually preserved in the thick mud that engulfed it. And it’s true: wandering around the archaeological remains of the town, you feel like you’re in a place that’s only recently been abandoned. The wine shop (above) still has its amphorae stacked to the side, the houses have beautifully preserved frescoes and mosaics. What it lacks in size it more than makes up for in detail.

Netta Bottone, the force behind this rustic eatery, is everyone’s favorite Italian nonna. The cuisine at Cumpa’ Cosimo—enjoyed by celebrities from Gore Vidal to Mariah Carey, as well as locals and travelers—is straightforward and made with heart (and fresh ingredients). The day’s selections will be rattled off to you in place of a written menu and likely will include fresh soups, pasta, and grilled fish. An enormous platter of several different pastas, perfect for sharing, is a perennial favorite. The pizza oven turns out pies with both traditional and special toppings, such as shavings of white truffles.

Nestled on beautiful Playa Dorado in Puerto Plata, this elegant hotel features 50 stylish suites, complete with neutral decor, flowering orchids, and private furnished balconies. Some suites can be connected, but for even more space book the penthouse, which includes three bedrooms, a large living room, and a freestanding outdoor tub. In addition to a pristine beach, Casa Colonial boasts a sleek rooftop pool, a restaurant that serves fine French-Caribbean cuisine, and a spa with a treatment gazebo above a tropical pond. When staying here, don’t miss the chance to explore Puerto Plata and its charming main square surrounded by Spanish colonial and Victorian buildings, as well as the more-than-500-year-old remains of Fort San Felipe. Fifteen minutes from the resort, you can also swim in freshwater lagoons in El Choco National Park.

Austin has established itself as a foodie destination on par with New York and Los Angeles. Now, it also has a hotel that’s worthy of its rebirth as a capital of cool. At The LINE, the setting is as pretty as the young things who stay there with their stylish pets. The midcentury building houses 428 rooms and suites inspired by the Lone Star landscape, with headboards that evoke desert canyons, blue linens and rugs that nod to Lady Bird Lake (which many of the rooms overlook through expansive floor-to-ceiling windows), and lighting that looks like fireflies in the night sky. The place to be seen is Arlo Grey, where Top Chef winner Kristen Kish serves a menu inspired by her childhood, travels, and Central Texas ingredients—that is until the rooftop bar debuts in fall 2018.

In addition to its beaches, Aruba’s gambling culture is one of the island’s biggest draws, with most casinos located in the large hotels of Palm Beach and downtown Oranjestad. Stellaris, in the Aruba Marriott Resort, is one of several glittering options that stay open 24 hours a day. The sprawling floor boasts rows of slot machines and 26 tables, offering all manner of poker, craps, and blackjack games. Visitors can also look forward to bingo, sports kiosks, and a VIP club for high rollers. Note: Aruba’s casinos are restricted to those 18 and older.

Each of the Como resort’s 33 over-water bungalows has a private terrace that lets guests jump straight into the lagoon and snorkel amidst colorful fish and coral. Some of the larger suites are built in the shape of dhoni boats, the traditional wooden vessels used by local anglers. Cocoa Island is home to some of the best diving in the Indian Ocean, with at least 25 sites near the resort, including a shipwreck. Como recently launched its Coral Propagation Program, which allows guests to help protect and regrow the 1,000-plus species found around the resort by planting a coral frame.

There are few more storied lodgings in Atlanta—perhaps the South in general—than the Georgian Terrace. Opened in 1911, the grand dame hotel has hosted the likes of Calvin Coolidge, F. Scott Fitzgerald, and Walt Disney and was the site of the premiere of Gone with the Wind in 1939. Though the landmark Beaux-Arts building’s opulent crystal chandeliers, marble columns, and detailed molding recall a bygone era, modern appointments bring the property into the present: Recently renovated rooms are outfitted with pillow-top mattresses, eco-friendly toiletries, and free Wi-Fi. While the neighborhood has plenty to offer, you could feasibly never leave the grounds. A rooftop pool provides cool comfort from the city’s oppressive heat, and guests can choose between an elegant New Southern restaurant and speakeasy-style lounge come dinnertime.

Set within a century-old, Pantheon-inspired former bank building, the Ritz-Carlton, Philadelphia raises Center City living to classical heights. When the building opened in 1904, the Girard Trust marble dome was the largest in the country, and its columns and styling matched its inspiration down to its oculus 142 feet from the floor, the exact height as the Roman original. Today, every stay starts in this grandiose rotunda, where staff man the immaculately preserved bank-teller booths. Guest rooms and suites are in the attached 30-story office tower, gutted and transformed into a hotel by Ritz-Carlton.

All 299 rooms and suites bring classic Ritz-Carlton elegance, with wood furnishings matching gold, sage, and pumpkin hues. High ceilings and picture windows with stunning city views enhance the vibe, while spa-style marble bathrooms have rain showers.

Cape Town already feels like it’s at the tip of the world, but the sensation is magnified at Tintswalo Atlantic, where guests get cozy in suites just a few feet from the ocean. Park in the lot just off famed Chapman’s Peak Drive and take the hotel van, which winds its way down a steep road and drops guests at a collection of semi-detached units. Each is themed after a different island—Zanzibar, Antigua, Sicily, and, oddly enough, Robben (where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned). The details are thoughtful, however, from the elaborate, wood-carved headboards to the seashell-encrusted bathroom walls and idyllic paintings. It’s hard to find a setting more romantic and remote. In the unlikely event that you want to venture out, there’s a shuttle that whisks guests to Cape Town, just over 30 minutes away.

Set in the Catskills, the Graham & Co is a boutique hotel that has reimagined the classic weekend mountain getaway. Located about two-and-a-half hours from New York City, this retreat offers spacious minimalist rooms, some with kitchenettes. Details include Mexican blankets, Tivoli radios, and custom bath amenities that are available for purchase at the front desk. The Graham & Co is designed as a place to sit back and read while putting your feet up next to the fire pit. Plenty of outdoor activities (fishing, hiking, skiing) are nearby, but many guests settle into the property and its Adirondack chairs, hammocks, and picnic area for a welcome escape from the bustle of city life. Explore the town of Phoenicia on a complimentary bike or simply stay put at this unpretentious mountain property.

Hemingways is a new hotel in Karen, which is sort of the equivalent of Atlanta’s Buckhead in Nairobi. It is near the Wilson airport, where so many of the domestic Kenya flights fly out. Traffic is a huge issue in Nairobi and cars creep both by day and night, so being in this area puts you near many of the best restaurants and shops like Anna Trzebinski’ s studio. The Giraffe Manor and the Sheddrick orphanage, where one can adopt a baby elephant, are also nearby.


If you arrange your trip to Kenya with Betty Jo, she can arrange upgrades at Hemingway’s, private visits to the elephant orphanage and Trzbenski’s studio, as well as private local drivers and drinks with a local Kenyan personality. “I can basically do whatever anyone wants,” says Betty Jo. “All bespoke.” Contact her at [email protected].

An exploration of Tlaxcala can begin and end in the Plaza de la Constitución, the zocalo in the old town center. Within walking distance are the Plaza Xicohtencatl, often full of crafts and food stalls, the Ex-Convento Franciscano de la Asuncion (built in the 1530s and one of Mexico‘s earliest monasteries and cathedrals, boasting a visually spectacular interior within its stone walls), several intriguing museums, and the municipal market. Around the zocalo itself you’ll find a colonial-style arcade of restaurants, cafes, and shops, the government building with an interior courtyard painted with historic murals, the Hotel Posada San Francisco an appealingly intimate bar, and plenty of places to park yourself and kick back in the shade. Ninety-five percent of the tourists you’ll encounter will be Mexican.

This is one of the new hot bars, just a few blocks down from the Jupiter Hotel on SE Grand and Morrision. Checkpoints: skinny hot bartenders in wifebeaters who shake up some inventive cocktails, a DJ, a 110-year old piano, a horseshoe bar and an impressive late night menu (cuban sandwiches, anyone?). I had the Sam Issacs which was mentioned in Portland Monthly as the drink to have but not even on their menu. It has bourbon, mint, blackberries and lime. It’s DELICIOUS. Portland seems to have a thing for libations with ginger beer and I’m loving it. I followed up with 96 Tears, a combination of vodka, lime, ginger and ginger beer. This was light but boozy. The perfect way to start a night or in this case, I’d end it here if you want to dance.

At a French Pyrenees mountain retreat in the village of Clermont La Grausse, yoga is practiced in a renovated barn and the top-floor studio of a château that overlooks a lake. Hour-long hatha-based classes are taught twice a day in English and are geared to all levels. Guests stay in converted stone barns and have access to three kitchens. Bikes are available for guests to ride to nearby markets where they can buy groceries. This story appeared in the January/February 2012 issue.

In early April, I spent a week on a yoga retreat at Amansala in Tulum, Mexico. We had four hours of yoga and Pilates practice a day, and I spent the rest of my time on the beach, swimming in the ocean, reading books (I finished Gabrielle Hamilton’s excellent memoir, Blood, Bones, and Butter), drinking coconut juice, and snacking on delicious homemade tortillas, salad, salsas, and guacamole. At night we ventured out to explore, and discovered a wonderful new open-air restaurant called Hartwood, where I wish I could eat every night.