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You’ll go for the fresh fish--namely salmon, black cod, and halibut. But you’ll want to stay forever thanks to the increasingly-excellent restaurant scene. Yes, Alaska is finally on the map when it comes to destination dining. Enjoy one of the state’s top dining spots right outside Denali National Park, stellar wine lists all around Anchorage, and plenty of smoked salmon all down the Kenai Peninsula. Pro tip: Head to the top floor of the Captain Cook Hotel on clear nights for apps and cocktails and a view of Cook Inlet that you’ll never forget.

There are several small towns around Alaska that make visitors of years past smile. Talkeetna sits pretty high atop that list. A good stopping point between Anchorage and Denali National Park, the town is at once a history stop, arty spot, beer fill-up, hearty food destination, and mountain climbing mecca. Talkeetna is the first step for everybody setting out to climb Denali. But it’s also the go-to for visitors who enjoy quirky little towns with huge personalities. Thanks to cruise-ship bus tours, the town does get a bit overrun during the summer months—but it’s still worth swinging in. And if you happen to be in Alaska during the winter and want to attend a very Alaskan event, don’t miss the Bachelor Auction. The entire town gets revved up and pretty darn drunk. It’s damn fun.

This 304-room hotel at Alaska’s biggest ski resort partners with Chugach Powder Guides to offer helicopter and snowcat excursions deep in the Chugach backcountry. Snowcat packages from $1,236. (800) 880-3880. This appeared in the November/December 2012 issue.

Reaching the remote Kenai Fjords Glacier Lodge is part of the fun. The four-hour boat journey from Seward to the only lodge within the 700,000-acre Kenai Fjords National Park is a prime opportunity to spot porpoises, puffins, and whales. On arrival, guests disembark and make their way to the lodge, where they’re briefed on bear safety: No food allowed in the 16 cabins. Calving tidewater glaciers provide the wake-up call for days filled with sea kayaking, canoeing, and hiking. Come evening, relax in the main lodge with a cocktail or with a book from the lodge’s natural history library. From $725, all-inclusive. This appeared in the June/July 2015 issue.

Situated just 40 miles from downtown Anchorage and the Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport, this year-round resort feels worlds away, set deep in a glacier-carved valley off scenic Seward Highway. With 304 rooms and a dizzying number of amenities, it also feels like a world unto itself. There are eight dining and drinking options, a fitness center, a heated saltwater lap pool with mountain views, and a spa that provides Arctic mud facials. But guests come to Alaska to commune with the great outdoors, and Alyeska offers its fair share of world-class experiences, including the longest continuous double-black-diamond ski run in North America and more than 1,600 acres of skiable terrain. The staff can arrange excursions that range from heli-skiing and dogsledding tours in winter to naturalist-led walks and glacier cruises in summer. For breathtaking panoramic views, the resort even has its own 60-passenger aerial tram for whisking guests straight from the hotel up 2,300 feet to the top of Mount Alyeska.

Each year, six million–acre Denali National Park and Preserve gets roughly 400,000 visitors, who come in hopes of spotting the park’s own version of the Big Five (grizzly bears, moose, caribou, wolves, and flocks of Dall sheep) and to take in majestic views of the highest mountain peak in the country. Only a fraction of that number, however, escape the crowds and tour buses to make their way to the tail end of the 92-mile-long Park Road, which winds deep into the heart of Denali’s rugged backcountry to the old gold town of Kantishna. Those who do are rewarded at this all-inclusive vacation resort with 42 rustic cedar cabins, some of which have private decks facing secluded Moose Creek. (All come equipped with private indoor bathrooms and heaters, welcome treats in these parts). Activities range from morning yoga classes and gold panning to guided hikes and mountain biking excursions. After an invigorating day outdoors, guests can pamper themselves in the new spa, which offers treatments like Swedish massage with hot stone therapy.

Tucked in a lush canyon perfumed with the smell of eucalyptus, Rancho Valencia Resort & Spa is one of the San Diego area’s most sublime getaways. Even if you’re not staying there, you can experience the magic by dining at the property’s signature restaurant, Veladora. Its hacienda-inspired dining room, with wrought-iron chandeliers and a Damien Hirst original, is a fine setting for enjoying dishes like a Chino Farm corn soup with vanilla popcorn and Alaskan king crab or a Brandt beef tomahawk steak for two served with duck-fat potato fondant, marinated ramps, and heirloom carrots. A deep wine cellar means an impressive selection of wines by the glass, from a chablis 1er Cru to an Andrew Rich pinot noir from the Willamette Valley.

Outdoor and culinary adventurers alike are drawn to this 11-acre property situated at the entrance of a stunning seven-mile fjord in Kachemak Bay. Guests can kayak through hidden coves to glimpse otters and porpoises, hike past alpine meadows, or deep-sea fish for salmon. But where Tutka Bay really separates itself from other Alaskan lodgings is in its culinary offerings. Visitors dig for steamer clams or stop by a local oyster farm for their evening’s feast, and continue the hands-on approach with lessons in the resort’s one-of-a-kind cooking school, housed in a repurposed crabbing boat. The focus ranges from Kachemak Bay cuisine to global influences, prepared with regional seafood and homegrown vegetables. After dinner, you’ll retire to one of six comfortably furnished oceanfront cabins, the most exclusive of which has three bedrooms and is surrounded by old-growth Sitka spruce trees.

Voted the #1 zoo in the country, the Columbus Zoo and Aquarium’s latest addition is a 1.3-acre yard specially designed to be the ultimate polar bear habitat called Polar Frontier. The exhibit is home to two polar bears, two Alaskan brown bears and Arctic foxes. The 167,000 gallon polar bear tank features a viewing area where you can watch the bears feed and swim from both above and below.

Just a 45-minute floatplane ride from Anchorage along the banks of the Talachulitna River and Judd Lake, this multistructure resort combines a six-room flagship lodge, which was renovated in 2017, with a lakeside bar and dining room (and 500-bottle wine cellar); a private four-room lodge; and two smaller individual cabins, all with views of either the Alaska or Tordrillo ranges. But guests don’t come here to just ogle the mountains—they take them on. With Olympic gold medalist Tommy Moe and Alaska heli-ski pioneer Mike Overcast behind the resort, plus access to 1.2 million acres of untrammeled terrain with runs that top out at 7,500 feet, world-class heli-ski adventures are practically guaranteed. And an exclusive partnership with Winterlake, another notable resort nearby, allows guests to heli-ski even further north into the Tordrillo Range and Neacola Mountains.

In 1964, a 9.2-magnitude earthquake—the second most powerful ever recorded—ripped through the south coast of Alaska, devastating much of downtown Anchorage. After surveying the damage, real-estate developer Walter J. Hickel, who would later go on to serve two terms as the state’s governor, vowed to build Alaska’s biggest and best hotel. The result, a massive 546-room complex spread out over three towers, is still the city’s most luxurious, known for its attentive concierge, excellent athletic club, and wealth of dining options. The elegant Crow’s Nest restaurant offers dishes that incorporate French technique with regional ingredients, like king crab–studded bouillabaisse, along with a 10,000-bottle wine collection; on a clear day, 360-degree views include the iconic peaks of Denali. One more reason to visit: The property was inducted as a member of the Historic Hotels of America in 2016.

Is it lunch? Or a snack? Or perhaps an appetizer before you head across the street to Denali Brewpub? Oh, who cares—just make sure you eat some of the spinach bread served up out of the gleaming Airstream on Main Street. A word of warning: There are a few times each summer when the Airstream takes the brakes off to head to the festivals and fairs. If the Alaska State Fair is on (late August to early September), you’ll have to go there to get some of the spinachy cheesy goodness. Wash it down with the not-too-sweet limeade.

Far from Juneau’s cruise crowd, this secluded oasis is popular with honeymooners—and the appeal is clear. Situated inside Tongass National Forest, its 10 rooms and suites come furnished with cozy fireplaces, while two offer a private balcony overlooking a small glacial kettle pond. The serenity extends to the inn’s rain-forest garden, dotted with a wooden footbridge, three gazebos, a sauna, and two hot tubs surrounded by lush Sitka spruce and hemlock trees. Those looking to experience local floes don’t have to venture far. It’s a mere eight-minute drive to the Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center. Expect phenomenal views of the 13-mile-long river of ice and the lofty peaks of Southeast Alaska’s Coast Mountains, along with miles of hiking trails that meander past cascading waterfalls and salmon streams.

I love public art and one of my favorites is “The Awakening,” which was created by the famed American sculptor, J. Seward Johnson, Jr. The Awakening is an iconic sculpture was originally installed by the artist at Hains Point in Washington, D.C., but was moved to National Harbor in 2008 when the developers purchased it. The Awakening consists of five separate pieces of metal, embedded in the ground, giving the impression of a giant man struggling to free himself from the ground. The left hand and right foot look like normal body parts. The left right hand, bent leg, and the bearded face with mouth mid-scream, are the parts that convey the pain of the man’s struggle to free himself. At any given moment, you will someone posing in front of one body part or another for a photo op. Kids especially love to clamber onto the man’s head. You can tell from the photo which part are my favorites! The way the foot and the fingers bent, the veins and folds of the skin—it’s all amazingly realistic. At National Harbor, The Awakening has been installed at the small beach area by the marina. It’s a great place to let the kids loose to have fun in the sand, and for the adults to admire a great piece of public art!

Dreaming of chasing fresh, untrammeled powder? Then Tsaina Lodge, widely regarded as the birthplace of the Alaskan freeskiing scene, is for you. Its location on Thompson Pass, a gap in the Chugach Mountains known for its record-setting snowfalls (averaging over 700 inches a year), and dramatic slopes combine for epic heli-ski exploits on runs that average a steep 3,500 feet. Come summer, the repertoire of helicopter-assisted adventure excursions widens: Fly out to fish, hike, or glacier trek the seemingly limitless surroundings. Après-activity luxuries await back at the lodge, which is situated on the grounds of what had once been an avalanche-safe roadhouse, built in 1949. The dilapidated building was bulldozed and rebuilt in 2012, and the result is a boutique hotel that stands out for its modern, contemporary design. Floor-to-ceiling windows look out onto either glacier or forest from each of the 24 rooms, and there’s a gym, yoga space, and spa—along with a fine-dining restaurant with a focus on local seafood, meat, and game, and the reopened Tsaina Bar, legendary among early freeskiiers.