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At this 11-acre organic farm outside Aix-en-Provence, American Lisa Pepin and her French husband, Johann, lead truffle-hunting tours in English during both the summer (May to September) and winter (mid-November to mid-March) truffle seasons. Guests search for “black gold” while learning about how truffles are harvested and truffle dogs are trained, then enjoy a sampling of fresh truffle hors d’oeuvres, Champagne, and Les Pastras’ olive and truffle oils. During the hunt, the Pepins regale their visitors with stories of success and sabotage, while teaching them the difference between a Provençale truffle and its inferior Chinese counterparts, and how to properly clean, store, and cook with truffles. Johann’s enchanting tales and Lisa’s joie de vivre will have you coming back for more, only next time to stomp grapes, harvest olives, or simply shop the farm’s delicious products.

Melbourne’s market culture is obviously very much alive and, in the case of Queen Victoria Market, has been since the 1870s.


Food stalls to try: Börek; Bratwurst Shop & Co.; American Doughnut Kitchen; Gozleme Turkish Café; Le Croissant des Halles; Pizza by Nature; La Cantina; Sushi Kissaten; Pide Bread Bakery; Spanish Donut Van.

This appeared in the May 2014 issue.

Wander through the historic rooms of Newman House on Dublin’s St. Stephen’s Green to explore the art of Irish literature through a series of thoughtful exhibitions in the Museum of Literature Ireland, or MoLI. The first gallery covers the founding of University College Dublin in 1854, and then leads on to an exhibit with quotes from the Irish writers. Much of the MoLI is dedicated to James Joyce, with a model of Joyce’s Dublin and the first-ever copy of Ulysses on display in a glass case. Different galleries display old fashioned desks and typewriters as well as interactive digital and audio displays, reading areas, and a film. A writers’ room is furnished with tables, paper, and pen, as well as advice from Irish writers, so you can start your own piece. Make sure to browse the bookshop on the way out for all types of literary-themed gifts including notebooks and jewelry, and grab a coffee on the terrace of the Commons cafe.

The Santa Monica Pier embodies what Southern California is all about: fun in the sun. Popular with tourists and locals alike, this iconic boardwalk adjacent to the Pacific Ocean—filled with all the amusement rides, midway games, fried food, ice cream and cotton candy you can dream up—is a fantastic place to spend a nice day. My favorite attractions are the Santa Monica Pier Aquarium and the world’s first solar-paneled Ferris wheel, which provides breathtaking beach and ocean views as you ride ‘round and ‘round. Be sure to dip your toes in the soft Santa Monica sand, too. Nearby, you’ll find the Third Street Promenade, a bustling entertainment district filled with wonderful eateries and shops.

This all-inclusive, adult only resort offers a truly exceptional experience. The staff is friendly, the service is excellent and the location is ideal for exploring Cancun. Honeymooners, couples and any vacationer in search of a chic, trendy getaway will enjoy staying here. Straddling one of the area’s best beaches, this newer hotel offers three infinity pools along with modern accommodations peppered with a luxurious South Beach vibe. When you’re ready to take a break from the beach, check into Secrets Spa by Pevonia to detox your body as well as your mind. Steam, sauna, plunge pools and a soothing array of body and facial treatments are sure to cure whatever ails you. Chocolate wraps for exfoliation, green coffee wraps for cellulite, seaweed wraps for detoxification, black mud treatments for aches and pains.....the list is endless. For a romantic touch, moonlight couples massages on beach beckon. In addition to spa services, a beauty salon and fitness center provide more “wellness” escapes. For a unique experience. you can even have a garra rufa fish pedicure.

Praia da Luz is about a 10 minute drive from Lagos. After ancient historic times passed, it was a little fishing village. In the 15th & 16th centuries, there was a large sardine fishing industry in the area of Praia da Luz beach. As I walked along the promenade in front of the beach, I appreciated the low rise development of the area. The view was of the beach, the walkways, the sea, and the palm trees. There are shops, restaurants, cafes, and the beach sheltered under the “Black Rock”. Market and artists’ stalls are prominent. Behind a gate near the Galley Restaurant, there are Roman ruins of a Roman spa and fish salting tanks. At the beach there is horse riding, kayaking, surfing, swimming, and diving. In the village, you can sign up for ballooning or golf. The village has it all: accommodations, shops, a church, and a bank or two. If you are interested in walking and hiking, you can take the trail three km. east to Porto do Mos Beach (Lagos). If you want to view the fantastic Ponta da Piedade, you will walk another five km. (If you want to return to Praia da Luz there is a bus). The Lagos Zoo is a short drive from Praia da Luz. The zoo has small animals and many birds. A stay at Praia da Luz would be a good choice in the Algarve. Or it is a great day trip from Lagos. We enjoyed the day trip with a delicious dinner on the beach at sunset. Info:www.praia-da-luz.com

In the native Hawaiian language, the word “Lahaina” literally translates as “cruel, merciless sun.” Given the name, it should come as little surprise that not only is Lahaina the hottest place on the island, but it can be five degrees warmer than neighboring Ka’anapali, just three miles down the road. When walking around town, one of the best ways to beat the heat is to cool off with a syrupy shave ice. This sweet treat has become synonymous with Hawaii, and its origins date to Japanese plantation workers who would combat the heat by shaving ice off of blocks. Today, no visit to Maui is complete without enjoying a refreshing shave ice, and the best shave ice on the west side of the island can be found at Local Boys West. Conveniently situated across from the Banyan Tree, Local Boys is an island favorite for all of the free add-ons which accompany each serving. In addition to the soft, melt-in-your-mouth ice flakes that can be flavored with multiple syrups, Local Boys includes ice cream on the bottom and Kauaʽi Cream on top, completely free of charge. For those traveling with kids, you can even top the treat with gummy bears for exactly the same price. While waiting in line for your syrupy treat, take a moment to watch the surf films or shop for locally-made merchandise. This store was opened by a man and his young son who humbly sold snacks on the street, and it’s grown into arguably the best place in Lahaina to enjoy the island flavor.

Why we love it: A centrally located stay near Laguna’s best beaches, parks, and restaurants

The Highlights:
- A dreamy setting right above Main Beach
- Delicious breakfasts and daily wine receptions
- A location within walking distance of Laguna’s best restaurants

The Review:
Galleries, restaurants, and nightlife lie just steps from the Inn at Laguna Beach, while Heisler Park sprawls along the nearby bluffs, offering a place to stroll, see art, or simply lounge in the sun on a grassy lawn. Still, guests don’t even have to leave the hotel to enjoy sand, surf, and epic Pacific sunsets. Here, the 70 guest rooms mix modern comforts (European-style duvets, pillowtop mattresses) with coastal style (louvered shutters, rattan furniture). Some even include private patios or balconies, but all feature extras like newspaper delivery, iHome docking stations, and loaner umbrellas and beach chairs.

Following a multimillion-dollar renovation in 2012, the Inn now boasts a more sustainable design, complete with low-VOC paint, renewable bamboo furniture, low-flow faucets and showers, tile made from recycled stone, and birchwood key cards. Not everything is paired back, however, especially the hotel’s signature breakfast, which includes artisan pastries, bacon brioche sandwiches, and bowls of fresh sliced fruit. Guests can also look forward to a daily wine reception, chilled milk and cookies in the lobby every evening, and cocktails at the Pacific Terrace Bar, which sits high above Main Beach. Best of all, the Inn is dog-friendly, so you can bring along your four-legged friend for a couple of days on the beach.

This airy, oceanfront restaurant can get crowded, so expect a wait whenever you go. It’s worth it, however, for the stellar menu of Hawaiian seafood dishes, plus the tropical cocktails. Pair a ginger mojito or strawberry piña colada with pupus (appetizers) like macadamia-crusted calamari and soy-ginger ahi poke, topped with local Surfing Goat Dairy cheese. Then move on to entrées like citrus-herb grilled fish tacos or the coconut-crusted catch of the day. If you’re not one for seafood, there are also excellent burgers and a teriyaki sirloin on the menu.

Blending a cheerful, laid-back spirit with a splash of formal elegance, The Reefs Resort & Club is uniquely Bermudian. Staff greets you with a rum swizzle upon arrival at the family-owned and operated property, then whisks you up to a room where bright botanical prints complement crisp white linens, deep wood tones, and tile floors, and windows offer views of the Atlantic’s turquoise-tinged waves. Days are spent indulging in frangipani salt scrubs and ayurvedic massages at the spa, sitting in on a sunrise yoga session on the beach and hitting the links nearby, or simply napping on a chaise at the freshwater infinity pool. Sited to capture awe-inspiring vistas of the water, limestone cliffs, and lush vegetation that surround the resort, three restaurants serve classic continental fare, but more adventurous types can rent a scooter across the street to sample the local food scene on a culinary tour of Hamilton and St. George.

American sommelier Brian Patterson, his wife, Jenn, and their massive Leonberger-Retriever mix, Bear (the Beartender!) are the consummate hosts at Lisbon’s newest, most interesting, and surely smallest wine bar. Located on pretty Praça das Flores in Principe Real, Patterson curates his all-natural wine list with a laser focus on small producers from around Portugal. He sources his finds on reconnaissance drinking missions around the country, including some of Portugal’s more underdog wine regions. His updated-daily chalkboard menu includes a half dozen or so offerings by the glass (€3.50-7) along with two batch cocktails, as well as intriguing bar snacks to accompany (his hummus is destination-worthy in and of itself). The bar doubles as a bottle shop; rightfully so, there is only room at the bar for about 11 provided everyone is sucking in their wine guts. File under: Wine Revelation.

Located next to Main Beach, the much-quieter Cleo Street Beach is a favorite of scuba divers, who come here to explore the Foss 125 Barge. The wreck, which sank just offshore in 1958, is submerged in a mere 55 feet of water, making it easily accessible to even the novice diver. Those up for the adventure will find an extremely well-preserved site, wrapped in coral and surrounded by Laguna’s Marine Reserve, which boasts everything from seals and otters to colorful fish and even some larger sea life. If you’re not a diver, Cleo Street Beach is still worth a trip to stroll the sand with a coffee from the nearby Orange Inn in hand. Just be sure to bring your four-legged friend along, as the beach welcomes dogs.

Among the small shops and restaurants that line Elmwood Avenue, Thin Man Brewery stands out in more ways than one. In a literal sense, its second-floor balcony extends over the street, offering guests the perfect place to sip pints in the sun. More figuratively, its beer selection is among the best in the city, with more than two dozen brews on tap, including the Prairie Paradise (a coconut-and-vanilla imperial stout from Prairie Artisan Ales in Oklahoma) and the Taras Boulba (a pale ale straight from Belgium). Thin Man also brews a few of its own beers on-site—if they have it, be sure to try the Pills Mafia pilsner. Since opening in 2016, the brewery has become so popular that there is now a second location in Black Rock, in a collaborative space with Tappo Pizza.

The Black Forest is famed for its cuckoo clocks, and the German Clock Museum (Deutsches Uhrenmuseum) in Furtwangen is the best place to get up close and personal with several examples. Here, visitors will find a collection of more than 1,000 iconic clocks, some 160 years old and others extremely rare, as well as troves of information on the history and technology of clock-making, including the concept of timekeeping. Visit the main exhibition to see items like an atomic clock, iron clocks from the 16th century, and the first-ever radio-controlled wristwatch, then check out the library and archive, which features books on horology from the local university. If you have kids in tow, be sure to also take advantage of organized treasure hunts for children, guided tours, and workshops on how to make and decorate a clock.

While construction started on Freiburg’s iconic Gothic church in 1200, it wasn’t finished until almost 300 years later. Today, the cathedral is known mainly for its 380-foot west tower (famously described by art historian Jacob Burckhardt in 1869 as “the most beautiful spire on earth”), but also boasts magnificent pillars, intricate sculptures (including 91 gargoyles), and an equally stunning interior. Incredibly, the church survived several World War II bombings and still contains stained glass windows from medieval times, plus a high altar with an intact triptych by Hans Baldung Grien. The famous tower takes on an octagon shape as you climb to the viewing platform, where, on clear days, you can see across to the Vosges Mountains in France. Be sure to also check out the bell tower, home to the three-ton, 750-year-old Hosanna bell—one of Germany’s oldest.