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Founded by four Swiss brothers mistakenly abandoned in Genoa in 1826, Fratelli Klainguti celebrates their love of all things pastry, and to this day the place serves some of the most delicious breakfast treats in town, alongside cups of steamy cappuccino. Verdi himself loved Klainguti—with his opera Falstaff named in honor of the delicious treat he enjoyed there!

Requiring some expert navigating through the graffiti-covered back alleys of town, it’s not easy to find the restaurant/pub Osteria del Sole. But like most tricky things in life, this one’s worth it in the end. Lorenzo, the owner, has just recently returned to Genoa to open Osteria Del Sole after 13 years of running restaurants in New York City (thus, he speaks incredible English), and brings a metropolitan feel to his space (I love the couches in the front). Come early to grab a seat at the bar (a real rarity in Genoa). With a great liquor cabinet, feel free to order your favorite cocktail, and then stay for dinner. Lorenzo has a fabulous kitchen.

As most of the museums in Genoa focus on art of the Middle Ages and/or Renaissance, it is nice every now and then to find options that feel slightly more ‘modern’. Head to the Villa Croce (just a 15 minute walk from the old town) for the interesting juxtaposition of contemporary art installations in a very historical building. If you come on a Sunday, the visit is free - and you can also see all the dogs of Genoa enjoying a morning outing in the park that surrounds the Villa. Don’t miss the upstairs gallery space - the exhibit by Jackie Saccoccio is breathtaking.

If you come to Genoa in late winter, you will have to deal with many cool and rainy days. BUT, you will get the privilege of shopping the amazing (i.e. 40/50% off) sales. So it’s a toss-up! If you are looking for women’s clothing, Lo Spaventarasseri has beautiful, artisan options in a lovely calm environment - perfect for trying clothing on after the holidays of overeating!

If you love ‘experiential learning’, the Galata museum is a great winter option for exploring the maritime history of the port of Genoa. With great ‘hands-on’ exhibits, and a beautiful roof top observation deck, this museum is one of the best in Genoa. And at only 11 euro, it is priced quite effectively. Make sure you don’t miss the “Tempest” exhibit -- a 4D experience of surviving a massive storm in a tiny life boat off Cape Horn. You can also pay a supplemental fee to explore the submarine parked in the harbor in front of the museum - but if you suffer from claustrophobia at all, I’d steer clear, as the space inside is incredibly small.

Since 1890, Pasticceria Tagliafico has been making delicious, traditional Genovese pastries and cakes (including the candied-fruit studded Pandolce). Located across the street from the main Mercato Orientale, this lovely large pastry shop offers plenty of options for take-away shoppers (wrapped cookies, candies, and fresh-baked croissants (brioche, in Genoa) are some of my favorites).

Even after chatting with the owner, I’m still slightly confused as to why this lovely women’s shoe boutique/art gallery is called Plastic Passion, but like so many things in Genoa, we just go with it. Drop by this lovely little shop to pick up Italian-made suede heels, or my favorite, the kitten-heeled black t-strap beauties. And take a minute to check out the upstairs art gallery before you head out.

Founded in 1867, Cafe Mangini is a gorgeous homage to the literary and artistic ‘salons’ of Genoa‘s past: stucco ceilings, art-nouveau mirrors, and a checkerboard floor that has lasted for nearly 150 years. Located at the end of the beautiful shopping street, Via Roma, Cafe Mangini offers a beautiful setting for a delicious post-shopping cappuccino, especially when paired with a slice of crostata pinoli (a pine nut and almond paste tart).

If you have a gorgeously sunny afternoon, walk the Corso Italia to the small fishing village of Boccadasse, still considered to be part of Genoa. About an hour’s walk from central town, this seaside stroll will take you past black stone beaches, children’s parks, and countless bars and restaurants enjoying the beautiful sea views. When you arrive, make sure to roll up your pants and step in the water, as the sea spray alone is said to have healing properties.

This is my favorite gelato in Genoa - hands down. Super rich flavors, super creamy texture, and little cup/cones that let you take your time to savor each bite. And with slow-food approved ingredients, you can also feel good about eating it! Just beware - the gelateria is on the ground floor of the Eataly building, and directly in the middle of the chaos of Porto Antico, so on warm days the line can be nearly an hour.

Tucked deep in the heart of the ancient city, this is an easy Palazzo to miss—but don’t miss it. My favorite of the Genovese museums, five floors of this massive palace are dedicated to the history and splendor of Genoa—the first three being the restored palace of the Spinola family, and the top two serving as the National Gallery. Explore beautiful frescoes, ceramics from the 1700s, actual clothing from the 15th century, and a massive original Rubens, among the many other varied treasures.

Nestled among the stunning palaces of the UNESCO World Heritage Palazzi Dei Rolli, Palazzo Bianco was built in the late 16th century by the Grimaldi family, one of the 28 ‘albergi’ families that ruled Genoa for centuries. Today, the gorgeous building houses an art museum focusing primarily on Flemish and Italian artists, with a strong emphasis on Genovese artists themselves. But do not miss the opportunity to stroll out into the gardens. They are magnificent anytime of year, but especially beautiful in early spring.

Glo Glo Bistro is a true hidden gem in Genoa - tucked way back into a slightly sketchy piazza off of the historic Vico Lavagna. Although it looks somewhat run-down from the outside, the inside is beautifully renovated, and they have an extensive wine list to choose from. You absolutely must come for apertivo, as they have one of the most delicious ‘snack’ plates in all of town - seriously, the platters brought to your table are heaped so full with delicious bites of focaccia and cheese and chips that you will not need to spend a penny on dinner.

With a massive apertivo buffet, stop by Storico for the cheapest dinner/drinks combo in town (and delicious, to boot!). For 7 euros, get a cocktail or a glass of wine, and fill your plate as many times as you like from the buffet of warm snacks—focaccia, pizza, pasta dishes, cold salads, and chips are always found on the “menu”! Make sure you sit outside, though, to get the best view of the people milling about in the beautiful Piazza de Ferrari.

If you visit the National Gallery in Palazzo Spinola (the home of Ansaldo Pallavicino), you can see three small sketches that were given as ‘mock-ups’ to Sr Pallavicino by the artist who would eventually go on to paint these frescoes in this beautiful church, La Chiesa di San Siro. One of the wealthiest aristocratic families of the time, Sr Pallavicino pulled many strings in this stunning space, including choosing the artistic embellishments. Originally dating back to the Benedictines of the 6th century, this is one of the largest churches today in Genoa, and certainly one of the most ornate (being rebuilt and redecorated in the Baroque style of the 16th and 17th centuries).