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Huayna Picchu is the landmark peak at Machu Picchu from which the classic, shot-from-above postcard photos are typically taken. While the views are spectacular, of course, the trail is not easy, studded with precarious, sometimes uneven stone steps, and often directly flanked by sheer drop-offs (thus probably out of the question for anyone with a fear of heights). While most hike to the top and back, you can also go up and around to the other side, with a visit to the Temple of the Moon/Great Cavern along the way. Admittance to Huayna Picchu is limited and sells out two or three months in advance; pay for your entrance as part of your Machu Picchu admission.

Tours of the Sacred Valley, and the entire Cuzco area, often feature side trips through gorgeous landscapes like Moray, an archaeological site with remarkable concentric agricultural terraces. It’s believed the Incas used these terraces—on which temperatures vary 59 degrees Fahrenheit from the top tier to the bottom—as a way to acclimatize non-regional crops for highland cultivation. Even if you don’t find that fascinating, it’s hard not to appreciate the beauty of the spot, and given that this part of Peru is not so heavily visited, it’s a nice escape from the beaten path. The Boleto Turístico covers this admission.

I planned on grabbing a quick lunch at Pacha Papa, located in San Blas Square, the heart of Cusco’s artist and gallery neighborhood. But I ended up spending a couple of hours in the lovely outdoor courtyard, talking to my wonderful server, Ever, and the owners about Cusco and Peru‘s bright future. They do serve Cusco’s local delicacy, guinea pig.

La Catedral is actually three churches in one, each of which are exquisite. It is decorated in the Baroque style, with more gilt and gold trimming than you can imagine. In order to convert the Incan people to Catholicism, the Spanish used symbols from Incan religion throughout the church. Look for the hundreds of mirrors, as well as the triangle shape associated with the Mountain God. La Catedral hosts a couple of particularly unique pieces, including a Peruvian rendition of the Last Supper featuring a guinea pig as the main dish. El Señor de Los Temblores is a crucifix that stopped the Cuzco earthquake of 1650, and is featured prominently in the cathedral. Pictures are not allowed inside, but the exterior of La Catedral is picturesque both during the day and at night when it’s lit up with the rest of La Plaza de Armas.

Cherubs hang from the ceiling and flying pigs decorate the bar. Aquarium bathtubs covered in glass are the tables and funky, modern art with Christian themes decorate the walls. Behind the bar a disco ball glitters the rows of liquor bottles and the bartender. The food is modern and classic: cuy and alpaca along a long list of beef tenderloin specialities.

There’s much to see in Cusco and the surrounding area, but you can do a lot if you have three days to explore. Day 1: Visit the Incan ruins at Qorikancha in the morning. After lunch, wander the the Mercado San Pedro, then hike up to Sacsayhuaman for the sunset. Day 2: Take a colectivo to the Sacred Valley, Pisac and Ollantaytambo. Visit the ruins at Moray and the salt mines at Maras. Day 3: Watch Andean life go by at Plaza de Armas, then explore the galleries of Las Blas, the arts district.

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Machu Picchu is located just fifty miles from Cusco. However, there is no direct road between the two cities. Unless you’re walking the Inca Trail, you’ll need to take a train from Cusco. The main operators are Peru Rail and Inka Rail, each of which offers a variety of budget and luxury options. Peru Rail runs a luxurious train, named after Hiram Bingham, that costs around $475 USD for a round-trip. Demand is high, so be sure to book the tickets in advance. You can also take any of the trains from Ollantaytambo to the small town of Aguas Calientes. From there, Machu Picchu is a 30-minute drive up the hill.

Offering traditional Peruvian dishes as well as others with more of a gourmet-fusion twist, this restaurant is an object lesson in using a country’s gastronomical variety to the very fullest. In particular, it’s one of the best places in Cuzco to try alpaca steak, which is grilled to perfection and served with a variety of sauces such as mango and ginger, mushrooms, or good old salt and pepper. A lovely rooftop terrace with fabulous city views is a great spot to try some mighty tasty pisco cocktails. The bar also features a plethora of infused piscos (think fruits, spices, and even chili peppers), which are great fun.

Limo offers Peruvian fusion par excellence that uses typical ingredients in daring new ways. It’s particularly known for fish, including many types of sushi, as well as a variety of entrées that feature tuna, shrimp, octopus, crab, salmon, or trout, some inspired by Andean recipes, others taken from the Japanese tradition. Not a seafood lover? No problem! Limo also has delicious options featuring chicken, pork, beef, and alpaca. This second-floor restaurant overlooking the Plaza de Armas is also a great place for sampling pisco cocktails. Reservations are a good idea, especially if you’d like to score a balcony table with a town-square view.

Few places can beat MAP Café for atmosphere. Located in the courtyard of Cuzco’s Pre-Columbian art museum (itself housed in a colonial mansion), the restaurant features all-glass walls for a privileged view. The fusion menu matches the ambience, including unique takes on local favorites such as adobo cusqueño—the tenderest of slow-cooked porks—as well as signature dishes like chicken breast stuffed with goat cheese and raisins. The desserts are such works of art you’re sure to want a photo before digging in. After six, the prix-fixe menu provides the perfect way to sample different flavors.

One thing you’ll likely notice when walking the streets of Cuzco is how many places advertise pizza. If you’re dying for a slice, there’s no better spot than La Cantina. Primarily a wine bar—bottles of all-Italian vintages line the walls—this place also happens to serve the best pizza in town, with a delicately thin crust topped with ingredients like authentic salami, prosciutto, arugula, olives, a variety of cheeses, and more. You’ll also find imported meat and cheese plates, lasagna, bruschetta, and salads. If you’re lucky, there’s tiramisu at the meal’s end, plus artisanal limoncello. Go for the wine, but be sure to try the food while you’re there.