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The stationery shop Itoya resembles a museum, with its exquisite displays and handsome collection. The main shop on Chuo Dori has 12 floors of paper, stationery, pens, planners, and a café. The annex on the backstreet has seven floors of paints, colored pencils, notebooks, and more. Itoya is a great spot to pick up gifts for friends back home. It’s easy to find—just look for the giant red paper clip in front of the building.

Inaugurated in 1912 by its namesake, the Spanish regent Maria Cristina, this belle epoque landmark has welcomed international elite to its gilded halls from day one. Designed by the same architect behind the Ritz in Paris, the hotel has long been a favorite of celebrities during the San Sebastián Film Festival (Bette Davis was, notably, a fan). A $25 million renovation in 2012 only cemented its status as the city’s most luxurious hotel. With three of the city’s most elegant eateries (including a favorite see-and-be-seen bar), panoramic views of iconic belle epoque buildings and the Urumea River from the many terraces, and signature Luxury Collection concierge service, the Maria Cristina still feels fit for the aristocracy who frequented it in the city’s beach-destination heyday. Spacious and decadent rooms with an updated belle epoque style, as well as a central location within walking distance of many of San Sebastián’s Michelin-starred restaurants, only sweeten the deal.

The Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt is a true palace. Built by an English Argentine railway executive, this Tudor Revival mansion dates to the late 1800s. The Duhau family, which bought the property in the 1920s, added an additional neoclassical building modeled after Le Château du Marais outside Paris. The property sat empty for a few decades at the end of the 20th century until a local developer partnered with Hyatt to turn it into a hotel. After a $74 million renovation, they helped preserve much of the original artwork and red marble flooring, invigorating the once faded Belle Epoque elegance. A larger, sleek tower with modern guest facilities was also added.

The property today is a testament to the grandeur of the most European city in the Americas. There are crystal chandeliers, intricate ironwork, and travertine marble bathrooms. There’s a bar where one can indulge in cigars and brandy, after, of course, dining at one of several high-profile restaurants with wine cellars designed to impress even the most hard-core oenophile.

Husband-wife duo Yves and Claudine Camdeborde got their start as industry pioneers with their restaurant La Régalade, the city’s first “neo-bistro” (a trend marked by high-quality cooking at an accessible price point), which they ran for 12 years. Since 2005, their acclaim has come from their Relais Saint-Germain hotel-restaurant combo located in the beating heart of Saint-Germain. The hotel blends quaint Parisian style with a just-like-home atmosphere.

The design goal was to preserve the 17th-century soul of the building, keeping its original, exposed beams and stones and blending antique furnishings and old parquet floors with avant-garde decorative elements and rococo textiles hand-picked by Mme. Camdeborde. The result is an urban inn that guests would want to return to year after year. Each of the 22 rooms bears the name of a celebrated writer inspired by Paris—from Madame de Sévigné to Marcel Proust—and a unique aesthetic theme (Asian, African, Louis III) in a nod to the neighborhood’s literary past. What unites them is an intimate vibe that instantly makes guests feel at home.

Located on the left bank of the Chao Phraya River, the Peninsula is one of the most consistently high-ranked hotels in the city, in particular for its attention to service. The rooms are decorated in white and comforting, honey-colored wood, with teak or carpeted floors and marble bathrooms; they all feature views over the river and city. The slim, three-tiered pool sits riverside, so guests can lounge in Thai-style gazebos—called sala—while sipping cocktails and watching Bangkok life literally sail by. In fact, a large part of the fun in staying here is the proximity to the river. Free, constantly running shuttle boats will ferry guests to three different piers along the river; the views of river life, traditional wooden Thai boats, and the high-rises along the way are unforgettable. The Peninsula is the tallest building in the vicinity, so the rooms on the upper floors offer yet another perspective—a near-bird’s-eye view of the city that is both exhilarating and potentially vertigo-inducing.

After a multi-phase expansion completed in 2016, the former Restoration on King dropped “the King” from its name and gained a new restaurant, spa, coffee shop, and several dozen more suites. The sleek and modern rooms at the boutique Restoration are spread over five historic buildings at King and Wentworth, linked by a courtyard with its own wishing fountain. Exposed brick, high ceilings, and dark wood add to the suites’ loft feel, and amenities such as kitchenettes and breakfast baskets delivered to your room from the on-site Rise Coffee Bar beg a longer stay. Seasonal “happenings” at the property include yoga classes, movie nights, and fashion pop-ups at the Port Mercantile retail store. The Amethyst Spa and Nail Bar uses charged gemstones and essential oils in their massages and treatments, and the jewel-box rooftop pool provides refreshment on a hot day and has panoramic views. After a swim, the Watch Rooftop Kitchen and Spirits serves farm-to-table Lowcountry dishes and cocktails inspired by the city, such as the seasonal, bright tequila-and-watermelon-infused Charleston Brick. The Restoration understands the need for speed and style, and offers to hook up guests with vintage car rentals or even help serious riders design and commission their own custom-built motorcycle (a favorite subject of the hotel’s artist-in-residence, photographer Gately Williams) to pick up on a return trip to Charleston.

Classic luxury in a colonial building is what visitors can expect of Four Seasons Hotel Mexico City, located near the swanky neighborhood of Polanco and the sprawling Chapultepec Park. Proximity to the park offers respite from some of the noisier parts of the city, as does the hotel’s own expansive courtyard. Citrus trees and other greenery, tended by the same gardener since the hotel opened, radiate from a central fountain, while sculptures by Mexican artist José Luis Cuevas add even more atmosphere to the peaceful setting. This sense of refinement extends throughout the property, with Four Seasons’ signature service on full display—housekeeping, for example, is performed twice daily, and the staff can arrange for in-room massage services. Guests can also look forward to a contemporary Latin American restaurant, a tequila and mezcal bar, and a health club with a sauna and whirlpool.

Flickering candles, velvet theater curtains, hushed conversation, and classic cocktails dressed up with slices of dried lemon or lime—the Golden Age Cinema and Bar feels like a secret supper club of yesteryear. Yet, with a geometric light installation, fresh bar snacks and drinks, and a digital film projector, the experience is entirely modern. That’s exactly what owners Barrie, Bob and Chris Barton—who also launched Rooftop Cinema in Melbourne—were after: creating a bar and movie experience that combines the best of today with the best of yesterday. The theater, housed underground in the 1940s Paramount Pictures building, features 60 seats made in the ‘40s and sourced from Switzerland. Shows are both classic and contemporary, with two screenings per night as well as special events such as the monthly Two Thousand Film Club, during which a notable local picks their favorite film and engages in a live Q&A. Before or after the program, enjoy movie-inspired cocktails, including a daily cameo that’s crafted entirely around what’s being shown—think whiskey for the music documentary Muscle Shoals set along the Tennessee River—with herb and parmesan popcorn, maple-bourbon pecans, or the sundae that Gelato Messina reinvents every month. Oh, and on Tuesdays, films are shown at “golden age prices,” which means you could see a 1960s flick for $1 with the purchase of a drink. You’re welcome.

In Oporto, Portugal, you can take a river cruz if you want. There are several choices from 50 minute boat tours to several hours or even several days. I chose to go on the 50 minute “Six Bridges” river cruise. I started at the Cais da Ribeira where you purchase your ticket and board the boat. We passed under the six bridges of Oporto on a relaxing tour and took in the glorious view of the World Heritage site of Oporto up on the hills. The wine cellars of Vila Nova de Gaia were spread out on the opposite side of the river. The views were magnificent of many old historic buildings and old cathedrals and churches. At the mouth of the Douro, we viewed the waters beyond known as the “land of the fishermen”. The Douro River is a beautiful river that sparkles under the azure sky as the sun shines down on its pristine waters. I was rewarded with a serene and happy feeling as I disembarked from my short cruise. I definitely recommend cruising the Douro while in Oporto. The difficult part is choosing which boat cruise to enjoy. Of course, it depends on how long you are staying in Oporto. Plan ahead, of course, and work this adventure into your trip. You will be glad that you didn’t miss it. Info: www.portodouro.com/cruzeiro-das-seis-pontes-cidade-porto

The city’s most famous snowbird, architect Frank Lloyd Wright, spent winters at his home and architecture school in the Sonoran Desert. Taliesin West brings the horizontal lines and organic materials of Prairie School design to the desert landscape in low, skylighted buildings. Behind-the-scenes tours visit the pop-up structures that students have designed as living spaces amid the barrel cactus and paloverde trees.

Positioned right on the historic Freedom Trail in downtown Boston, this discreet 19-story hotel caters to guests who appreciate both classic architecture and of-the-moment amenities. The building initially became a hotel in 2002; in 2006 the Kimpton chain took over the property and added its personalized boutique touch.

Though the lobby is all dark woods and polished marble floors, the rooms are chic and urbane, with high-back seating, and skyline views. The hotel’s Cloud Nine Suite and Inspired Suites offer guests space to spread out with separate living and dining areas, as well as enviable high-tech extras, including the Cloud Nine Suite’s state-of-the-art iris scanning security system. Kimpton properties also take pride in their pet-friendliness: complimentary dog beds await all four-legged visitors, and pet sitting, grooming, walking, and even massage services can be booked through the concierge.

Guests congregate in the lobby each evening for complimentary wine, and the general manager hosts morning runs twice a week. The central location also means visitors can easily immerse themselves in the city’s shopping, dining, and nightlife scenes.

I’m both an early bird and a night owl. So in a town with few 24-hour joints, where is a starving girl to go when she needs to eat and the chickens are barely awake and the owls are yet to sleep? Why, the Diner, of course! I was ecstatic when this place opened up in the Adams Morgan neighborhood and I could finally get my favorite meal of the day, breakfast, at dinnertime. There are diners near where I live, but this is the closest to my workplace. After a stressful day, when all I want is a comfort meal, this is where I come. On weekends, you’ll find me here for breakfast enjoying my favorite egg sandwich with sausage, a cup of joe, and the local freebie paper to read. For some reason, this doesn’t feel like a laptop/tablet kind of place. The food here is classic diner fare plus a few upscale options and homemade fruit pies and milkshakes to boot. Built new, this diner is housed in an old building. Thankfully, the owners replaced the entire front entrance with floor-to-ceiling doors that open to let the sun shine in, so it feels very bright and airy inside. On weekend nights, the place can fill up quickly thanks to a live DJ spinning tunes. An inviting atmosphere, good food that’s reasonably priced, a great wait staff— it’s just a fun place to be.

This sprawling museum is located in four buildings near Battlefields Park—the most recent of them, the Pierre Lassonde pavilion, opened in 2016 and was designed by starchitect Rem Koolhaas’s OMA. The 25,000 works in its permanent collection cover the history of art in the province, beginning with the French colonial period and including artists who are still active today. The museum also holds one of the world’s most important collections of Inuit art, with some 100 pieces—mostly carvings in stone, whalebone, or ivory—on display at any one time. Temporary exhibitions focus on both local and international artists. If you have time for a sit-down meal, Tempéra Québecor—helmed by Marie-Chantal Lepage, one of Québec’s best-known chefs—is near the entrance of the new pavilion, with floor-to-ceiling windows looking out over the grounds and the Grande Allée.

Take it from a local: If you’re looking to bond with the locals and enjoy some simple fare with lots of taste, drive down to Williche. The family-owned sandwich shop in a street corner in Cabo Rojo is just a block from the town square and a fifteen-minute drive from a couple of beaches.


Williche, a small building with pictures of old Cabo Rojo and slogans proclaiming a love for Puerto Rico, serves you cafeteria-style. It offers juices, different kinds of sandwiches, and milkshakes that are just the right amount of dense. My mom and grandparents started taking me there when I was a kid and I’ve been enjoying their bocadillos ever since. You would expect little (seeing as how they’re basically bread, ham, cheese, onions, tomatoes, and ketchup), but that makes their immense flavor all the more satisfying.


I’ve been living outside of P.R. for more than six years, but every time I come home, I ask my family to stroll down with me by the dominoes-playing older men and to Williche. It’s almost always packed, but I and everyone else know the woman behind the counter (the founder’s daughter). It means we can talk and laugh with her, and get to know anyone else who happens to wander in.


Forget Olive Garden. When you’re in Williche, you’re family.

Visitors seeking an immersive-history experience can get a chance to travel back in time and check out the homes, stories, and daily routines of early Philadelphians, from everyday citizens to the city’s better-known inhabitants from the past. Buildings along Elfreth’s Alley, the country’s oldest continually occupied residential street, reveal the lives of the city’s earliest residents. Most of the houses on the block are private homes, but houses numbered 124 and 126 have been preserved as a public museum. Guided tours begin in the Museum Shop (Number 124). Private tours of the Alley and Museum House are available all year round.