Search results for

Hoi An’s iconic noodle dish was tangled in mystery for decades. Then writer David Farley came to town.

In search of a flightless, sex-crazed, and rarely seen parrot in a land once ruled by birds.

Just 50 miles north of the highest peak in the Atlas Mountains, Marrakech is a vibrant city that will let you dip into buildings from the 14th century just as easily as you can modern-day shops. When visiting Marrakech, spend a relaxed, dreamy morning in Jardin Majorelle before heading off to galleries, a museum dedicated to and the former home of fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent, or to snake charmers and other so-very-Marrakech wonders. Nicknamed the “Red City” for the clay used in many of the building, Marrakech is the best Moroccan city for an immersion course in the country’s culture, before you head off to explore the rest of Morocco.

A belle epoque grande dame presiding over San Sebastián’s iconic La Concha Beach, the Hotel de Londres y de Inglaterra has been a palace, casino, hospital, and of course hotel since its construction in 1865. Before and after World War I, it was the kind of place where well-to-do Europeans went on seaside holidays for months at a time, enjoying direct beach access, the city’s renowned seafood, and the hotel’s elegant design. Nowadays, the society consists of a somewhat less star-studded lineup—once Toulouse-Lautrec, Archduchess Elizabeth of Austria, and Mata Hari were all guests—but the unobstructed Bahía de la Concha views, lovely rooms (all with private balconies), and pride of place at the heart of the city remain. The window-lined brasserie takes its cue from classic French bistros—it’s not hard to imagine that the well-dressed gentlemen at the next table are French aristocrats-in-exile—and its tables along the beachfront promenade are the perfect place to while away a few hours over pintxos, txakoli (a sparkling white wine from Basque Country), and people watching. If you were to spend a few months in a seaside town, this would be the way to do it.

Arriving to Getaria can be done by bus, but one of the most unforgettable parts of visiting this village is approaching (or exiting) it by the sidewalk that winds along the sea. Depending on the time of year, you will have endless views of a calm sea or rough waves that remind you of the power of nature and make you admire the Basque people’s hardiness. It’s about a 40-minute walk from Zarautz to Getaria, on a flat sidewalk. There’s even a bathroom halfway. No excuses.

Nashville may be known as Music City, but its reputation for inventive cuisine is catching up at a galloping pace that a rockabilly drummer would recognize. Southern staples like biscuits, fried chicken, and macaroni and cheese have been revisited by Nashville’s chefs and transformed into something divine.

After a string of personal losses, a writer heads to Tamil Nadu seeking solace from her sorrows. It takes two temples, a palm leaf astrologer, and the driver of a velour-lined taxi to make her feel whole again.

When it opened in 2015, this museum drew headlines for its extensive contemporary art collection and Diller Scofidio + Renfro–designed building, which resembles a futuristic honeycomb. Then a single exhibition catapulted it into fame: artist Yayoi Kusama’s installation of thousands of twinkling LED lights called Infinity Mirrored Room—The Souls of Millions of Light Years Away. (The artist’s follow-up, Longing for Eternity, opened in 2017.)


There’s plenty to be dazzled by in this museum founded by philanthropists Eli and Edythe Broad. Hundreds of skylights illuminate the column-free third floor’s permanent galleries—featuring the Broads’ considerable collection of pieces by Kara Walker, Barbara Kruger, Jasper Johns, and Jean-Michel Basquiat. Insiders know to visit on weekdays for the most relaxed experience or around major holidays and occasions such as Halloween and International Women’s Day for engaging and sometimes provocative tours. Pro tip:

Though general admission tickets are free, it’s wise to book tickets online ahead when they’re released on the first of each month for the following month, especially if you’re taking a date or going with a group (the same goes for Kusama’s rooms). At least two weeks out, request a before- or after-hours guided group tour of one hour, not including the Infinity Mirrored Room.

And make sure to also book reservations at Otium, the trendsetting restaurant by Chef Timothy Hollingsworth located next to the Broad.

Britxos opened its doors in the summer of 2012 to great fanfare among Brussels expat foodie community. We were already familiar with the team, from catering company La Britannique, for their incredible food and warm, friendly service. Britxos is a cozy little bar in the St. Gilles neighbourhood of Brussels. It is filed with light from the huge windows and colour, from the chalkboard walls, filled with menu items and comments from past visitors. The name is a play on British (chef and owner Alex’s nationality) and Pintxos (the Basque word for tapas). Inspiration is taken from Alex’s love of food and travel and each dish is named for the city that inspired it. Every Monday night there is live jazz. Friday nights are the popular gourmet night,s with a 4 course fixed-price menu, and Sunday is the un-missable Britxos Brunch. You’ll hear every language found in Brussels being spoken here, while enjoying a fantastic and affordable meal.

The metal-and-glass ribbon structure of this Frank Gehry−designed hotel—not too far from Bilbao—creates an ethereal silhouette that contrasts dramatically with Elciego’s medieval landscape. Opt for a guided tour to learn more about the history of winemaking in the Basque countryside.

For the arrival of Peninsula Hotels in Europe in 2014, many millions of euros were lavished on an Avenue Kléber landmark a cobblestone’s throw from the Arc de Triomphe. Born in the Belle Epoque as the Hotel Majestic, the historic property where George Gershwin wrote “An American in Paris” was transformed by the country’s finest artisans—including the company of tassel-makers who decorated the Paris Opéra.

Brussels’ BOZAR museum is well worth visiting for its excellent art exhibitions, concerts, and events, like TEDex Brussels. But it’s also worth visiting for its gastronomic restaurant, the BOZAR Brasserie, headed by chef David Martin. The menu changes each month and includes Belgian favourites with a fresh, modern twist. Ingredients are organic and sourced locally when possible, with dashes of international flavours like Basque pork and Anjou pigeon. The prices aren’t for the budget conscious, ranging from 20-40 Euro for a main dish. However, the set lunch menus from Tuesday to Friday make a more wallet-friendly option. Even if you don’t spring for a whole meal here, stop in for a coffee and dessert. Pictured here is the specialty of the chef: a dark chocolate ‘bomb’, filled with creamy, rich praline and accompanied with homemade passion fruit sorbet. The sweet/tart combination is heavenly. The BOZAR Brasserie doesn’t take reservations so go early and be prepared to wait. It’s worth it.

The wording is irresistible: “Get a taste of history.” On the grounds of one of the oldest Spanish missions (est. 1691) in Arizona, tortillas cooked over a mesquite fire, in the shade of mesquite trees, steps from an adobe church--this is Tumacácori. Drive about an hour south of Tucson. Just 20 miles from the Mexican border, this mission/Nat’l Historical Park was originally established by the Jesuits. The remaining structure (surprisingly intact) dates from the early 19th century, when Franciscans and the native Tohono O’odham stacked some ninety thousand adobe bricks together to build their church. Spaniards and Basques settled the Santa Cruz River valley, missionaries brought fruit trees and foreign religion...After the Colonial period, support from the government in Mexico dwindled, Apache attacks increased, and by the 1850’s, when the U.S. acquired this territory, the mission had been abandoned. Tortillas are made outdoors most weekends fall through spring; call ahead to confirm. (520-398-234) [pronunciation note--Tumacacácori: “too-mah-KAH-koh-ree”]

When you’re ready for a proper pisco, Miraflores’s PiscoBar is a capital choice, both for traditional cocktails as well as heady new creations. As is to be expected, owner Ricardo Carpio is a celebrated pisco expert, which makes this the ideal laboratory for personal tastings of some of the country’s premier brands. Happily, it’s also a fabulous place to eat, whether you’re craving tapas or a full-on meal. Dishes like the seafood risotto and the beef with tacu tacu (Peruvian refried beans and rice) make you wish you had a Peruvian grandmother; the welcoming staff provide a warm facsimile.

The city’s most historic food hall is housed in a grand old building with a distinctive arched roof of copper and glass that lets light flood into the bustling interior. Come here to browse the 40 or so stalls and buy cakes, cheese, fish, meat, and vegetables to take away, or better yet, perch at a counter and eat right there amid all the hubbub of the market. The building was completed in 1889 and was landmarked as one of the country’s important buildings in 1985.