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As the daughter of one of Croatia’s most legendary chefs, Ivana Gamulin felt inspired to follow in her late father’s footsteps and open a restaurant. The result is Villa Spiza, a countertop spot within the palace walls, where she and her sister serve up Dalmatian soul food made with fresh, local ingredients. The menu changes daily depending on what’s available at the market but always features regional specialties like seafood risotto, fried calamari, and just-caught fish. For its comforting fare and low-key vibe, the restaurant is beloved by everyone from bohemians and backpackers to tried-and-true locals—which is always a good sign when searching for somewhere to eat. Service is friendly, but come prepared to wait—Villa Spiza doesn’t do fast food.

Barba offers a fresh take on fast food, serving tasty items like octopus and shrimp burgers, anchovy sandwiches, and fried calamari, all made with today’s catch. Located on a small side street off Stradun, the shop is tiny and friendly—the perfect pit stop during a day of Dubrovnik sightseeing. Snag the prime table by the front window and watch the rivers of people entering town through the Buža Gate as you eat. Then, be sure to contribute to the restaurant’s growing collection of wooden forks, on which customers from all over the world write messages commemorating their travels.

Chapitô is a circus school but also a restaurant and a bar. It’s very close to the castle and has fabulous views over the river. It’s ideal for a romantic dinner.


The cuisine is inspired by traditional Portuguese cuisine with a mix of international influences. I had dinner there this week and tried the codfish and I recommend it—but you have to eat it on the terrace, since this menu is different from the one inside the restaurant. You will be stunned with the views from the restaurant. Enjoy this beautiful city over a pleasant dinner. If you want to have a drink afterward, there is a bar on the lower floor, sometimes featuring live music or theater.

Art-lovers should not miss the Museum of Fine Arts (Museum voor Schone Kunsten) or MSK, in Ghent, Belgium. This bite-sized museum offers a great overview of of European art, particularly Belgian, from the Middle Ages to the early 20th century. Currently, the MSK is undertaking the restoration of Ghent’s most famous artwork, the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb, by the Van Eyck brothers. Visitors can watch the entire process as it takes place behind glass. The architecture of the building is as lovely as the art contained inside, as seen in the photo above. The Mub’art Brasserie has a lovely terrace and is a great place for a bite to eat when you tire of admiring the art.

Bowens Island Restaurant has existed in one form or another since 1946. The original building, covered in Sharpie messages scrawled by diners over the years, burned to the ground in 2006. Owner Robert Barber rebuilt it almost immediately, all the while serving steamed oysters straight from the inlet beyond the dock. Today, the paper plates are modest but come piled high with fried seafood, fries, and hush puppies. Order the oysters, top them with cocktail sauce, and wash it all down with a local beer for one of the best dining experiences in town. Bowens may not have white linen tablecloths or awards hanging on the walls, but this is where you want to be eating in Charleston.

Formerly the private residence of Gioacchino Murat, king of Naples and Napoleon’s brother-in-law, Palazzo Murat has the mark of aristocracy—white-walled interiors are outfitted with elegant antiques, oil paintings, and decorative tiled floors—but also the welcoming atmosphere of a dear friend’s home. The 18th-century villa is tucked away behind cascades of bright bougainvillea and greenery-filled grounds fragrant with jasmine and citrus trees yet centrally located in Positano’s pedestrian zone, making it an ideal base for shopping holidays and seaside idylls alike. The pool is especially impressive, flanked by a lawn studded with chic sunbeds and backed by a storybook scene of pastel-hued houses stacked higgledy-piggledy along the hillside. Just steps away is the charming Al Palazzo restaurant, which incorporates ingredients from its vegetable patch and twinkles with candlelight in the evenings. As for the guest rooms, soothing white spaces are accented with pops of blue and lemon yellow, and French doors open onto lovely balconies with views of the gardens, town, or sea.

Hyperlocalism has fueled Portland’s Old Port District revitalization, with buzzy restaurants and shops with a deep sense of place opening in recent years. The stylish Press Hotel is no exception. A publishing motif runs throughout the 110-room property, which occupies a corner building that once housed the Portland Press Herald. Custom-made wallpaper printed with old headlines adorns the corridors, and desks inspired by those found in 1920s newsrooms are in each room. Works by local artists—including a dramatic installation of vintage typewriters from the late 19th and early 20th centuries by Portland artist Erin Hutton—and woven-wall tapestries by Portland home-goods designer Angela Adams also abound. (There are even a few notable—and welcome—nods to the global luxury market, including Frette linens from Italy atop the plush beds.) The focus at the 65-seat hotel restaurant, Union, is proudly farm- and sea-to-table, with dishes like house-smoked local mussels served with celery cream.

In a pastel villa that presides over pine-covered slopes and the deep blue waters of the Ligurian Sea, Belmond Hotel Splendido was a 16th-century monastery before it became a cliff-side luxury hotel at the turn of the 20th century. Today, it is one of Portofino’s most iconic resorts, with 70 sunlit rooms (think herringbone hardwood floors, marble baths, and wrought iron terraces) that have hosted the Duke of Windsor, Ava Gardner, and Catherine Deneuve. You’ll get the VIP treatment while sipping champagne on a sunset cruise aboard the hotel’s Chris-Craft Corsair 36, dining on seabream ceviche at La Terrazza, or indulging in a chamomile footbath at the spa. A shuttle can run you down to intimate sister property Splendido Mare, which overlooks the central Piazzetta and is a dressed-up version of a fishing village pied-à-terre, with 16 whitewashed rooms and its own buzzy restaurant.

This natural soup-n-burger joint lies far from the tourist hordes, on a quiet residential street in the San Frediano neighbourhood. The kitchen and takeaway operation (open lunch and dinner) stands on one side of the road while opposite there is a pared-down modern restaurant (open for dinner only) with a tiny courtyard. Organic vegetables and herbs and locally produced beef go into tasty, seasonal soups (creamy cauliflower with truffle or earthy lentil and kale) and juicy burgers and there are gluten-free, vegetarian and vegan options too. Don’t miss the delicious desserts such as the rich flourless chocolate cake. The drinks list features excellent organic wines from the owner’s estate, craft beers and organic fizzy drinks.

Since opening its doors in 1866, the Venice-based jewelers, Atillio Codognato, have been turning out exceptional, rings, bracelets, and earrings known the world over. Their shop is located just off San Marco and has been a favorite haunt of the likes of Coco Chanel, Elizabeth Taylor, and Nicole Kidman. Even if you can’t afford one of their pieces, it’s nice to pop into the shop anyway just to view their collections, mostly inspired by the 15th-century Venetian artist, Carpaccio, and the 18th-century painter, Pietro Longhi. The fourth-generation owner, Attilio Codognato, is a jovial and curious Venetian. His shop is small and cozy, and when you’re invited in, you find that he is as well versed in contemporary art—his private collection includes works by Jasper Johns, Robert Rauschenberg, and Roy Lichtenstein—as he is in artisan jewelry. If you’re interested in Venetian artisans, or jewelry in general, A. Codognato is an excellent introduction to the Venetian influence on jewelry.

Requiring some expert navigating through the graffiti-covered back alleys of town, it’s not easy to find the restaurant/pub Osteria del Sole. But like most tricky things in life, this one’s worth it in the end. Lorenzo, the owner, has just recently returned to Genoa to open Osteria Del Sole after 13 years of running restaurants in New York City (thus, he speaks incredible English), and brings a metropolitan feel to his space (I love the couches in the front). Come early to grab a seat at the bar (a real rarity in Genoa). With a great liquor cabinet, feel free to order your favorite cocktail, and then stay for dinner. Lorenzo has a fabulous kitchen.

If you visit the National Gallery in Palazzo Spinola (the home of Ansaldo Pallavicino), you can see three small sketches that were given as ‘mock-ups’ to Sr Pallavicino by the artist who would eventually go on to paint these frescoes in this beautiful church, La Chiesa di San Siro. One of the wealthiest aristocratic families of the time, Sr Pallavicino pulled many strings in this stunning space, including choosing the artistic embellishments. Originally dating back to the Benedictines of the 6th century, this is one of the largest churches today in Genoa, and certainly one of the most ornate (being rebuilt and redecorated in the Baroque style of the 16th and 17th centuries).

As most of the museums in Genoa focus on art of the Middle Ages and/or Renaissance, it is nice every now and then to find options that feel slightly more ‘modern’. Head to the Villa Croce (just a 15 minute walk from the old town) for the interesting juxtaposition of contemporary art installations in a very historical building. If you come on a Sunday, the visit is free - and you can also see all the dogs of Genoa enjoying a morning outing in the park that surrounds the Villa. Don’t miss the upstairs gallery space - the exhibit by Jackie Saccoccio is breathtaking.

If you are looking for a place to escape from it all, pack your overnight bag and follow the Capuchin monks to the Bay of Silence in Sestri Levante. With their long brown robes, you can easily spot the monks from this 17th century monastery preforming their daily rituals along the rocky seashore of this beautiful beach town. With one of the most lovely beaches along this coastline, Sestri Levante is quite popular in the summer months, but walk along the shoreline under the abandoned abbey, and you can find a semi-private rock outcropping to place your towel. Just know that there may already be someone there, and they just might be topless!

Founded in the 9th century, Santa Maria della Scala was one of Europe’s first hospitals. It was also one of the first hospitals anywhere to disinfect its equipment and only stopped taking in patients in the 1980s. (The writer Italo Calvino died here in 1961.) The early history of the hospital is illustrated in the 15th-century frescoes decorating the walls of the Pilgrim’s Hall, and there is a fascinating archaeological museum housed in the labyrinthine basement rooms.