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When I stepped into the grand lobby of Québec’s Le Château Montebello, I felt like I was entering Paul Bunyan’s living room. Giant timbers braced a three-story-high ceiling, and a massive fireplace in the center radiated warmth in all directions. After checking in, I joined the guests gathered around the six-sided hearth and sank into a leather club chair. I spent the rest of the day by the fire, sipping hot toddies and napping, as the comfort of the crackling flames sent me and the other fireside dozers snuggling deeper into our cushions. I had come to ski some of the 65,000 acres of wooded backcountry that neighbor the resort, but the château was so welcoming, I found it hard to leave.


Often described as the world’s largest log cabin, the lodge and two other main buildings were constructed in 1930 from 10,000 red cedar logs and 500,000 handmade wooden shingles. The houses and the vast surrounding forests were long owned by the politically prominent Papineau family, and until 1970, the estate remained a private nature retreat for Canada’s upper class. As I walked through the château’s halls, the intricately carved banisters and exposed beams reminded me of the great western lodges in the U.S. national parks—only without any grumpy tourists demanding to know where the animals are.

In the guest rooms, deluxe amenities such as flat-screen TVs and rain-dome showerheads upstaged anything found in Yellowstone or Yosemite. Despite the modern perks, rawhide lampshades and other rustic details helped my suite retain its frontier appeal. When I got up to pull the plaid drapes closed that night, I watched a horse-drawn sleigh pass by, glowing in the moonlight against the dark ribbon of the frozen Ottawa River.

Without fresh snow to ski the next morning, I was left to explore the lodge’s other activities. I opted out of getting scrubbed with maple sugar at the spa or unsuccessfully flirting with French-Canadian women by the fire, and instead devoted the day to learning the inscrutable rules of curling. The château has an indoor ice rink dedicated to the sport, a national favorite that’s best described as a combination of shuffleboard and falling down a lot. My instructor was Henri, a kindly sexagenarian who, like many in Québec’s western Outaouais region, seemed more comfortable speaking French than English. As it turns out, kindly reassurance sounds the same in either language. But as my backside repeatedly hit the ice, Henri’s patient polyglot insistence that I was doing “une belle job” grew progressively less convincing.

After my rough-and-tumble day, I dined in the white-tablecloth Aux Chantignoles restaurant. Québecois cuisine dominates the menu, and I followed a dinner of tender venison osso buco with a slice of Québec’s famously sweet and jiggly sugar pie—think pecan pie sans pecans. Snow fell just in time for me to ski through the nearby forest on my last day. I spent a long afternoon there, gliding among stands of birch, pine, and spruce in the rolling Laurentian Highlands. Now and again, I paused to admire one of the countless frozen lakes, their smooth surfaces dotted with tracks left by moose and white-tailed deer. I skied in the silent wilderness until just after sunset. As the scent of a wood fire began to tickle my nose, I grew eager to cozy up by the hearth again. I turned back toward the château’s stone chimney, its rising plume of smoke signaling for my return.
This appeared in the November/December 2010 issue.

An old-fashioned soda fountain and 300+ different varieties of bulk candy; Big Top Candy Shop opened its doors in October 2007 and has been satisfying the sweet tooth of all visitors, regardless of age! There’s also over 2,000 kinds of wrapped candy, some classics, and other unusual selections. Have a milkshake or a fountain soda and spend hours drooling over the candy!

A 2010 renovation transformed a traditional lodge into a 12-room inn that’s both cutting- edge and cozy. Built by the former Olympic skier Gerardo Mussner in 1963, the hotel is now run by Gerardo’s daughters. His wife, Helga, serves South Tirolean dishes such as almond-crusted venison. In 2010, the hotel was reimagined with larch wood, glass, and local stones that match the mountains. The curved roof stands out against the peaks. A 758-mile network of 12 ski areas, Dolomiti Superski is just five minutes away. The closest section, Val Gardena, hosts two Alpine Ski World Cup events in December. From $2,284 per week. 39/471-795-274. This appeared in the November/December 2012 issue.

One of Mexico’s most interesting and varied gastronomic markets, Mercado 60 is home to eighteen culinary options that serve up everything from homemade pasta and sandwiches to Lebanese specialties and, of course, Mexican cantina fare. Get ready to hobnob with locals and travelers alike. The events calendar is packed too, with concerts, dance lessons, performing arts, and even dog adoption days. You’ll find yourself returning time and again to grab a bite or learn to salsa.

Markets offer great insights into a country’s culture, and in Taiwan the night markets are a mandatory stop for observing local life. Sometimes spanning entire city blocks, the markets are an amusement park of sorts—complete with a midway of mahjong and basketball games—where friends and families gather at colorful communal tables to feast on gastronomic discoveries from a clutter of stalls. Whether you’re at one of the nine markets in Taipei (such as the famous Shilin market or the more intimate Ningxia market) or visiting the big Da Dong market in Tainan, you won’t go hungry! From savory pork on a stick and crispy chicken chop (chicken that is fried and then grilled) to sweet, custard-filled wheel cake and sugar cane lemonade, market fare surprises and delights. Distinctively Taiwanese grab-and-go snacks include stinky tofu (which tastes exactly as it sounds) and the surprisingly appealing pig’s blood cake—a hearty dessert-on-a-stick consisting of rice and pig’s blood dipped in a pork soy broth and coated with peanut flour. A cultural immersion at its finest, the markets and the surrounding scooter-filled chaos will create a memory of Taiwan that will stay with you forever. AFAR Ambassador Natalie Taylor traveled to Taiwan as a guest of the Taiwan Tourism Bureau.

Past the bouncer and down a black staircase 32 feet below ground is Paris‘s most buzzed-about semi-private club, Le Silencio. Housed where Molière was allegedly buried and Zola printed “J’accuse”, it’s of little surprise that the enigmatic director David Lynch would select the location for his louche lounge-cum-entertainment space, which he designed (expect gold-leaf walls, raw wood cladding, bespoke neo-1950’s furniture) - mere steps into the labyrinthine halls and you’ve entered the entrails of another world, one that evidently takes cues from Lynch’s art. Before midnight, it’s member’s only but once midnight strikes, a smartly dressed crowd of cocktail-crazed creatives floods inside, snatching up seats in the art library, loafing at the bar or lighting up in the mirrored smoking room that was conceived to resemble a forest. Killer cocktails and exclusivity aside, Le Silencio’s biggest draw is its broader offering. Presentations from the local artistic set are frequent as are culinary/cultural events, intimate concerts and private screenings. As the guest of a member, my first visit was not so much to explore the space (though there is plenty to unearth here) but for a private tasting of chef Flora Mikula’s work. A couple hours into the evening and I realized Le Silencio wasn’t about being seen but about discovery - of high culture and the utterly bizarre.

Coconut Grove represents old-school Miami. This small pocket of bayfront parks, marinas, shops, and restaurants just south of downtown Miami was one of the city’s first neighborhoods, and people from all over the city are realizing that the Grove is cool again. Recently, independent shops and restaurants have been opening, and young families have started moving in to enjoy the art galleries, green spaces, and pedestrian-friendly streets. Coconut Grove’s waterfront location and historic charm kick off its appeal, but the real winner here is the dining scene. Mouthwatering options include French, Peruvian, Hawaiian, and Mediterranean cuisine, creamy gelato, and more. Come hungry.

For our few days in Vis, a two-hour ferry ride from Split, we would drive our Vespa until we got to a beach—they are not hard to come by on this small island. This beach, right about in the middle of the south coast of the island, is mostly only accessible to boats. But we, boatless, scrambled down a steep cliff because it looked so perfect, and spent a few dreamy hours. We arrived on the ferry at Vis Town, walked into the tourist office and booked an apartment for a few days. Those days were spent going from beach to languid, four-hour meal, to beach again.

Antonio de Montesinos held it down in the New World and defended the rights of the indegenous people. He was truly ahead of his time. This statue located in Santo Domingo’s colonial section is dear to my heart. I used to go play and ride my bike there all the time. The stone and bronze statue was a gift from Mexico and was made by artist Antonio Castellanos in 1982, a year before my birth. Below is Montecino’s famous quote, which as you could imagine enraged the Spanish King and all of the aristocracy at the time. #Legendary. “Tell me by what right of justice do you hold these Indians in such a cruel and horrible servitude? On what authority have you waged such detestable wars against these people who dealt quietly and peacefully on their own lands? Wars in which you have destroyed such an infinite number of them by homicides and slaughters never heard of before. Why do you keep them so oppressed and exhausted, without giving them enough to eat or curing them of the sicknesses they incur from the excessive labor you give them, and they die, or rather you kill them, in order to extract and acquire gold every day.”

Upon reading up about Hokkaido, one of the popular “must tries” listed by fellow travelers was the age-imo, deep fried potato. Wondering what the fuss was all about, I had to try this. Living in Asia, we are quite familiar with deep fried sweet potatoes, so we were expecting something like that, but we were surprised to see that age-imo is actually made with regular potatoes, a popular produce of Hokkaido, much the same way the Americans consider the Idaho potato :-) Age-imo is usually sold in 3’s like the one in the photo. Upon biting into it, you’ll get a taste of that soft steaming hot potato inside. The batter tastes a lot like the hotdog on a stick batter :-) I think these are also sold in some of the outdoor food trucks but the one in the Nakayama Mountain Pass rest stop has been popularly mentioned. So if you’re on your way out of Sapporo to the Southwestern part of Hokkaido, you’ll most probably pass by Highway 230, and Nakayama Mountain Pass rest stop is just about an hour from Sapporo city center. You can also buy soft ice cream here. Be sure to try a special flavor like orange or melon. It is actually quite nice to eat ice cream in winter :-) There is a souvenir shop which sells all sorts of Hokkaido products. Get a cream puff, or buy a pack of those wonderful light and crisp Hokkaido cookies. Nakayama Mountain Pass is also where you can get great views of the famous Ezo Fuji (Mt Yotei) so be sure to get your cameras ready.

From the dusty street, the Hotel El Convento in León, Nicaragua, beckons with its stately façade and red Spanish-tiled roof. Step inside and you instantly feel at home amidst ornate period furnishings that are surely a far cry from the building’s humble beginnings as the 1639 San Francisco Convent. The elegant Restaurante El Victoriano offers an indoor-outdoor retreat centered on the hotel’s manicured, tropical courtyard—an example of the colonial hacienda style found throughout León. The restaurant is a meeting place for people from all walks of life—aged former Sandinistas who now hold positions of leadership, locals splurging on a fine meal, or foreign students from one of the city’s many Spanish language schools seeking tranquility and an excellent cup of coffee.

Towering palms and a true Scottsdale vibe greet guests of the Westin Kierland Resort & Spa, located in northern Scottsdale. Families will love features like the Adventure Water Park, which has a lazy river perfect for floating on a sunny day, a water slide, and even a spot to do some desert-style surfing on the FlowRider. A kid-friendly light show takes place seasonally at night, and the projection onto the hotel makes the building look like it has come to life. For the grown-ups, the property is an even better place to play. By day, go for a round of golf on the award-winning links, lounge at the adults-only pool, or enjoy a massage at Agave, the Arizona Spa (the namesake plant, native to the area, is used in many of the treatments). By night, choose from four on-site dining options—not including cozy in-room bites. Be sure to make a reservation at Deseo, where Chef de Cuisine Derek Biazo serves up delicious contemporary Latin American small plates (try the hamachi ceviche with truffle ponzu sauce, and definitely don’t skip dessert or the exceptional wine list). Tipplers will also appreciate the open-nightly Scotch Library, which boasts more than 300 labels and kilt-clad Scotch Ambassadors who can guide you through a tasting. The Scotch Library is one of the hotel’s many tributes to the area’s history and culture. Scottish immigrants played a role in establishing the early economy of Arizona, and homage to that heritage is evident not only in the Scotch Library but also in the sunset bagpipe shows and the offering for golfers to play Scottish-themed golf. Other nods to local culture include the rehabilitated desert reptiles in the lobby (don’t worry, they’re enclosed) and room decor highlighting important personalities and moments from Arizona’s history like female pilot Ruth Reinhold, who taught pilots in World War II and eventually became Arizona Senator Barry Goldwater’s personal pilot.

A stalwart on the “best of” lists, this restaurant blends dynamic global cuisine with comfort food… set against a steampunky-sports bar décor. None of this should work, but it very much does. The industrial touches evoke the city’s heritage as a Western working town, as well as its iconic grunge epoch that swept the globe. (The bottle-cap portrait of local legend Jimi Hendrix is especially endearing.) Don’t miss the chicken khao soi, foraged-mushroom pizza with taleggio, or the sublime Vadouvan-spiced carrots with thin curls of feta smoked in-house. The restaurant’s connected to the Kimpton Hotel Monaco and also delivers a mean breakfast, from malted waffles to duck confit hash with cippolini and dried cherries.

This iconic restaurant in the Old Town of Dubrovnik stands out, even against the backdrop of lively Gundulić Square and its innumerable pigeons. From the blue-and-white-striped chairs on the outdoor terrace to the fresh seafood coming out of the kitchen, everything about Kamenice delights. As such, the affordable spot has earned a devoted local following. Settle in for dishes like mussels buzara, black risotto, fried small fish, and just-caught calamari. If you’re a fan of oysters, you’ll also want to order the succulent ones on offer here—sourced from nearby Ston Bay, they’re so fresh you can still taste the clean, salty Adriatic with each slurp.

What’s old is new again in Saint-Pierre, a city built under majestic Mount Pelée on Martinique’s Caribbean coast. In 1902, Mount Pelée volcano erupted, leveling the city and killing all 30,000 inhabitants– save one lucky prison inmate, whose thick cell walls protected him from the blast. Today, the rebuilt Saint-Pierre honors its fiery past at the Musée Volcanologique, a mini-Pompeii filled with carefully preserved relics. History meets modernity at the southern entrance where seven inspired, contemporary Caribbean artists have created 32 colorful totem sculptures welcoming guests. There are also popular dive sites nearby, where scuba divers can swim alongside century-old wrecks of ships that sunk in the explosion.