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Why we love it: A stylish but mellow alternative to the glitz of Los Cabos

The Highlights:
- Chic rooms, some with soaking tubs, outdoor lounges, or ocean views
- On-site restaurant Benno and its creative Mexican-Mediterranean fare
- Proximity to Todos Santos and the chance to connect with the local community

The Review:
Liz Lambert has made a name for herself converting quirky motels into cool-kid haunts in Texas and beyond. With Hotel San Cristóbal, she brings her magic to a transcendent Pueblo Mágico in the Baja Peninsula. Now she’s bringing her magic to a transcendent Pueblo Mágico in the Baja Peninsula. Just outside of Todos Santos proper, on the small fishing beach of Punta Lobos, the whitewashed, cubist property houses 32 serenely chic rooms, complete with crisp Sferra linens and serape-inspired duvets, vibrant ceramic-tiled bathrooms, and windows that overlook sunny Pacific waves (keep your eyes peeled for migrating gray and humpback whales).

Resist the urge to confine yourself to your Coco-Mat mattress, however. Adventure awaits in the form of surfing off nearby Playa Cerritos, learning to make pottery in an off-site class, or accompanying chef Edgar Palau on a trip to source fresh fish from local anglers. There’s also a beautiful central pool and lounge, a library, a seaside mirador, and a small retail shop on property. When hunger strikes, head to Benno, where biodynamic meals that fuse Mexican and Mediterranean flavors pair perfectly with small-batch mezcals and sustainably harvested regional wines.

Feast on fresh-caught fish and seafood and wash it down with Italian wine during a leisurely summer lunch at Alla Maddalena on Mazzorbo Island. A 45-minute ferry ride from Venice and far removed from the crowds, this charming, less touristy and altogether tiny island in the Venice lagoon is wonderful place to escape for an afternoon. And Alla Maddalena serves amazing fried fish as well as top-notch mussels and clams, all of which can be eaten al fresco either in the back garden or by the canal. The trattoria is also known for handmade pastas and seasonal ingredients from fruits to locally hunted game like wild duck. (Mazzorbo is a short walk across footbridge from Burano Island, so if you’re planning a trip to Burano, you can add a stop here for dinner.)

With its 16 craft beers selection and lengthy list of Arizona wine and signature cocktails, Historic Brewing Barrel and Bottle House is a can’t-miss. And we haven’t even mentioned the food yet: a Southwestern take on classic pub fare, with dishes such as fried avocado; a salad with black beans, corn nuts, and charred jalapeño vinaigrette; and a pulled-pork sandwich with homemade barbecue sauce. What’s especially unique about this spot is that it makes its own beer and wine; order the Love at First Flight for a sample of six wines or six beers, and enjoy them on the patio, if weather allows.

At this bird-lover’s paradise, guests have reported seeing Blue Cotingas, Green Shrike-Vireos, and any number of native Panamanian bird species just outside their bedroom window. Their luck is in part due to Canopy Tower’s unorthodox location in a converted radar tower, right in the middle of the lowland rainforest of Soberanía National Park. Accommodations span two floors at either 18 feet (mid-canopy level) or 28 feet (canopy level), and range from basic yet adequate single rooms that share a bathroom, to a large suite with a private balcony. The lush rainforest setting also means there’s plenty more than birds on view—howler and tamarin monkeys, two- and three-toed sloths, nine-banded armadillos, and white-tailed deer are frequently seen from the tower, plus the stargazing is phenomenal. Guests can choose from day rates or all-inclusive birding and nature packages, the most comprehensive of which is a 20-night exploration of the surrounding area.

“Alon and I are regulars for Friday breakfast. We love their take on the Arab dish shakshuka. In the original, eggs are poached in a sauce of tomatoes and red peppers, but here they use green peppers instead of red, and they add goat cheese.” —Architect Irene Kronenberg

New safari tents at an iconic central California coast resort invite guests to glamp under the redwood trees. Nightly turndown service, included. Big Sur is once again open for business following last spring’s debilitating mud slides, and autumn is an especially luminous time to explore this legendary stretch of central California coast, some 20 miles south of Carmel. Big Sur’s magic lies in its untamed wilderness: redwood groves, chaparral-covered hills, and iconic rocky cliffs that sprout improbably from the ocean. Condors circle overhead and sea otters float just offshore. For many, the isolation—and peace and quiet—that Big Sur offers is the reason to return again and again. For travelers seeking a soft landing, the Ventana Big Sur resort recently reopened under new ownership and after a massive renovation. New glamping cabins have been added to the 59 rooms, suites, and villas spread throughout the resort’s 160 acres. Shaded by redwoods, the 15 safari-style canvas tents come equipped with hickory walking sticks, portable lanterns, and access to a bathhouse with teak-lined showers and heated floors. Guests can enjoy nightly turndown service and the use of fire pits for making s’mores in the evening. As part of the renovation, the Ventana also built an on-site gallery to showcase paintings, sculptures, jewelry, ceramics, and photography by Big Sur’s most renowned artists. And the new Sur House restaurant—helmed by executive chef Paul Corsentino, who worked in New York and Chicago before heading west—houses a 10,000-bottle wine cellar that highlights small-production central coast wineries. Guests eager to embrace the region’s back-to-nature philosophy might appreciate a soak in the heated, clothing-optional Mountain Pool, undoubtedly more pleasant to ease into than the roiling, frigid Pacific Ocean just down the hill. This appeared in the Jan/Feb 2018 issue.

At Graycliff Chocolatier on Nassau, you can do more than just taste delicious, gourmet chocolates—you can learn how to make them yourself with the help of Graycliff’s master chocolatier. The chocolate-making experience is part of the chocolate factory tour, in which guests learn how the chocolate goes from raw cocoa beans to a rich liquid that can be poured into molds. Then you’ll have the chance to mold your own chocolate bars. Of course, if you’d rather taste it than make it, you can purchase a selection of chocolate and truffles, or join one of the chocolate and spirits tasting sessions to learn how to pair gourmet chocolates with spirits like rum, whiskey, and port.

Don’t be fooled by the simple-sounding menu at this top-notch Portree restaurant. The dishes here are complex but well balanced, featuring the soils and foams that have come to define haute cuisine. Chef Calum Munro uses local, seasonal products like freshly caught seafood and Glendale lettuce to create his modern Scottish cuisine, with dishes ranging from cod with lemon butter, cod’s roe, and caviar, to venison with red cabbage, juniper, and chestnut. For pairing with the menu, Scorrybreac also offers a varied selection of wines, Scottish single-malt whiskies, and local, artisan-roasted coffees, best enjoyed while gazing across the harbor to the dark, rocky cliffs in the distance.

This J-shaped peninsula southeast of Hobart is home to natural, historic, and man-made surprises. The Three Capes Track is an awe-inspiring way to take in the landscape, home to Australia’s tallest sea cliffs; Shipstern Bluff (“Shippy’s” and “Devil’s Point” to locals), known for giant waves and shark encounters; and the Totem Pole and the Candlestick, two dolerite sea stacks popular among crazy rock climbers and rappellers. Port Arthur is Tasmania’s most famous convict site, and a variety of tours—including a lantern-lit ghost tour—are designed for families. Before you leave, toast the trip of a lifetime at McHenry Distillery, one of the world’s most southern distilleries, with a sloe gin made from locally foraged berries.

Located in the heart of Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis, Digby Chick offers fine dining in a relaxed, family-friendly atmosphere. A local favorite, the restaurant features a seasonally changing menu full of local produce, with fish and shellfish being a particular specialty. Dishes range from fillet of monkfish with deep-fried coconut prawns to Dijon-glazed duck breast with rosemary roast potatoes, all perfect for pairing with the international wine list or the extensive selection of Scotland’s finest malts. For an affordable night out, book a table before 6:30 p.m. and take advantage of Digby Chick’s early menu, which includes three courses for just £24.50 (around $32).

In an age when many independent bookstores have surrendered to the advance of chain stores and Amazon, City Lights is a true survivor. Since it was founded by poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti in 1956, it has served as a gathering place for San Francisco’s literary communities. Everyone from beat poets to left-wing critics of America have found a welcome here. City Lights is also a publishing house, with Allen Ginsberg’s Howl and Other Poems being perhaps the single most famous book it has put out, though it counts scores of other works by some of America’s leading contemporary literary figures on its list. You can drop in anytime to find an unexpected tome, and the store also has a crowded calendar of readings.

Hôtel du Roi Christophe is a small, relaxed boutique hotel, nestled in a lush tropical garden in the midst of humming Cap Haitien. It’s not über–luxurious, but perfectly comfortable, and it attracts travelers and business people alike. There’s a great, comfortable terrace, a good place to hang out and let the day spool past one more time, drink in hand. The central location (ten minutes to the cathedral and Place d’Armes) makes it a perfect starting point for excursions on foot. Speaking of walking and exploring, if you want to get to know Haiti by yourself, Cap Haitien is a safer place to venture out on your own, than Port-au-Prince. ___________________________________ Warmest thanks to my incredible guide Anne-Rose, with Ayiti Tours (http://caribbeantours.info/en/haiti-tours), for her competence and brilliant knowledge of Haiti’s past and present.

Located just two miles north of Port Elizabeth, on an 18th-century sugar plantation and working sea salt farm that overlooks Spring Bay, Firefly Bequia has all the sophistication of its sister accommodations on tony Mustique. Scattered along the hillside to maximize ocean views, the four suites and one two-bedroom cottage are outfitted with king-size four-poster beds, indoor-outdoor showers, and rattan ceiling fans that recall the island’s colonial past. Though it’s a five-minute walk to the beach, you’ll spot the remnants of the plantation’s original sugar mill, a croquet lawn and swimming pool, and the hotel’s resident goats along the way. Upon your return, a cocktail in the stone bar, where green bananas hang like chandeliers, is just the thing to ease you into a star-filled night.

When you see this UNESCO World Heritage–listed train station, you’ll understand why it’s described as an eastern version of London’s St. Pancras. This imposing reminder of the British raj, designed in an extravagant Victorian-Gothic style with Islamic and Hindu elements thrown in, is often referred to by its colonial name of Victoria Terminus, or VT; a statue of Queen Victoria still lords over the building’s dome. Inside, watch with awe as thousands of people spill on and off the trains—and if you’re feeling brave, have a go at riding the rails yourself.

On the non-descript, busy corner of Bucareli and Morelos streets in Mexico City is a café with a famous history: Fidel Castro and Che Guevarra met here at Café La Habana several times, chain smoking and drinking strong coffee, to plan the Cuban Revolution. Nowadays, you can still get excellent coffee—and pretty good food—while you plan something a little less dramatic (but more enjoyable), like your vacation itinerary. Old journalists and businessmen congregate here for hours on end while salt-of-the-earth, slightly surly waitresses take your order and bring you your food and drink. Come for breakfast and order their chilaquiles, motuleños, or molletes, and wash it down with an espresso or café americano.