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With only a couple of exceptions, you can’t soak in Yellowstone’s thermal features (this is for numerous reasons, not the least of which is that most are so scalding hot they’d burn the flesh off you). North of Gardiner, Montana, though, in the no-stoplight community of Pray, Chico Hot Springs has welcomed soakers to its spring-fed hot pools since 1900. Spend the night in one of the quirky rooms in the historic main lodge, originally built as a boardinghouse for miners, or in a refurbished caboose from the Northern Pacific Railroad. If at all possible, plan to be at Chico on a Sunday morning, when it serves the best brunch in Montana.

When the Art family bought the struggling Chico Hot Springs Resort in 1972, some of the earliest improvements they made were to its dining room. The idea was to create one of the best restaurants in the state; if guests came for the food, maybe they’d spend the night. The family succeeded. Today the Chico Dining Room is so beloved it spawned a cookbook, A Montana Table: Recipes from Chico Hot Springs Resort. While ingredients are as fresh as can be—with produce from on-site greenhouses, meat from local ranchers, seafood flown in overnight from the coast—the menu includes some dishes that have been around for more than 40 years. The classic Chico meal is beef Wellington (service for two) and, for dessert, a Flaming Orange, which is exactly what it sounds like.

I like hotels in general, but there’s a special place in my heart for national park lodges. The range of accommodations usually encompasses several levels of vacation budgets (Yay for patriotic inclusiveness!) and there’s nothing better than waking up surrounded by the very sights and sounds you’ve traveled to see. Denali National Park doesn’t have any NPS-owned lodges, but you can get pretty danged close in terms of atmosphere and location (the park is right on the other side of the roaring Nenana River) by staying at this sprawling Holland America-run resort. Recently renovated accommodations include deluxe rooms and suites in buildings strategically placed along the river and deluxe rooms in the Canyon Lodge building. All buildings are served by a shuttle service and linked by paths. Decorated with historic photographs and rustic-chic touches, my suite room was a dreamy blend of civilization and wild surroundings. Falling asleep to the soundtrack of a rushing river just feet from my window was perfect way to end a day spent in the park. [This photo is a view from my window just before midnight in late June. Midnight!]
Ann Shields traveled to Alaska and the Yukon with Holland America Line as part of AFAR’s partnership with the United States Tour Operators Association (USTOA), whose members provide travelers with unparalleled access, insider knowledge, and peace-of-mind to destinations across the globe. For more on Ann’s journey, visit the USTOA blog.

Why we love it: A historic hotel where Old Florida elegance meets contemporary style

The Highlights:
- Unique amenities like a tennis complex, golf course, and private marina
- A wide range of dining options to suit everyone’s tastes
- A prime location near Tropicana Field and The Dalí Museum

The Review:
A member of Historic Hotels of America, the Vinoy Park Hotel opened in 1923—a Mediterranean Revival property overlooking Tampa Bay, designed for America’s elite. It served as a training facility for the Army Air Corps for a brief time in the early 1940s, but reopened as a hotel in 1945 and continued operations until 1974, when it closed in disrepair. Following a $93 million restoration and expansion in 1992, the hotel reopened once again as the Vinoy Renaissance, complete with a new guest tower and an 18-hole golf course designed by Ron Garl.

Today, the Vinoy also features 360 guest rooms and suites, complete with well-lit workspaces, pillowtop mattresses, and Aveda bath products, as well as two swimming pools (one heated), a spacious tennis complex, a 5,000-square-foot fitness center with complimentary workout classes, and an elegant spa offering massages in poolside cabanas. Thanks to the hotel’s waterfront location and private marina, guests can even charter a boat for the day and explore the bay. Dining options range from sushi on the Veranda Patio to farm-to-table fare at Marchand’s Bar & Grill. The culinary standout, however, is Paul’s Landing, named for a Navy carpenter who once fished, farmed orchards, and cured meats and seafood along the St. Pete waterfront. Don’t miss the citrus-glazed shrimp and grits, or the crispy Brussels sprouts with key lime.

A pilgrimage to this enchanting park is a must for any Antoni Gaudí fan. Located atop Carmel Hill to the north of the city, the park was inspired by English landscape gardens, but its fantastical elements make sure you know it was created by Catalonia’s most eccentric architect. Though there are multiple entrances, the most impressive is via a grand staircase guarded by an enormous, mosaic-tiled dragon. It leads to a sprawling plaza with a mosaic-covered cement bench stretching some 328 feet around the perimeter. Park Güell was originally designed as a gated residential development, but it failed; a show home built to lure buyers is now the Gaudí House Museum (not included with park admission). Visitors should reserve an online ticket to avoid lines.

Designer Blake Simpson crafted Mojave Sands over nearly a decade, and his detail-oriented vision is evident everywhere, from the perforated metal fencing to the hand-sculpted black walnut bed frames. Amenities are slim, but what the motel lacks in room service it makes up for in sheer style. (Rooms include typewriters and solid record collections.)


This appeared in the October 2015 issue.

Looking directly onto the turquoise and emerald sparkle of the Atlantic Ocean beyond a ribbon of powdery white sand, The Melia Nassau Beach - All Inclusive is in a prime location on Nassau’s beautiful Cable Beach. The property features bright and modern rooms and suites on, all with private balconies, and either pool or ocean views. There are also three pools with waterfalls facing the sea, one of which is adults only, and two hot tubs. Seven restaurants and four bars round out the all-inclusive offerings. When booking, there is an option for THE LEVEL, which is the property’s elevated services and amenities package, and guests have access to an exclusive beach area, private lounge, premium top shelf liquors and preferential dining bookings. The property is also very family friendly and there is a children’s pool as well as a Kids’ Club offering daily activities for children 5 to 12 onsite, so parents can get some downtime. On a recent visit to see the newly renovated LEVEL rooms (these are on the 8th and 9th floor and have the most direct ocean views) this writer was seriously impressed by the quality of food at the Melia Nassau Beach - All Inclusive. It’s often the low-point of an all-inclusive experience, but this wasn’t the case here, where there is plenty of variety, and a lot of fresh and healthy choices. Another plus were the strong drinks, which were not watered down as often happens at all-inclusives. With six included restaurants, the variety of what you eat is also awesome. And while the seventh restaurant, Black Angus, isn’t included in any of the packages, it is worth shelling out the extra bucks for — in fact, it’s a popular choice with locals, who book for diner. The steaks here are massive and cooked to order, and the fresh line fish is an excellent pescatarian selection. The lobster mac and cheese is also delicious. Even if you don’t dine at Black Angus, the included restaurants still have you eating around the world: Nikkei serves Japanese and Peruvian fare, including show cooking on Teppanyaki tables and a fresh sushi bar; Cilantro is focused on fresh Mexican and tequila (note some of the speciality cocktails do have extra cost associated with them, but it’s clearly noted in the menu); and O’Grille, which is an American grill. There are also multiple bar options and different entertainment - try the karaoke - depending on the night of the week. Right on Cable Beach, the location is fabulous with water you won’t want to get out of -- it’s the most beautiful color of turquoise, warm, calm and crystal clear, and the hotel offers complimentary floats, SUP boards and kayaks to enjoy it. Should you tire of the vitamin sea, you can hop on the free shuttle to the Baha Mar development, whi-ch includes a casino, 18-hole, par-72 golf course, dining venues and shopping.

A favorite brew stop in the trendy Parap neighborhood, Laneway Specialty Coffee burst on to the scene in 2014 with a mission to enhance the flat coffee culture in Darwin. It seems the owners have been successful; the airy cafe draws a crowd every weekend, especially on Saturday mornings when the Parap Market assembles a block away. A spinoff in Winnellie, Besser Kitchen & Brew Bar, opened in 2016 with a similar exposed-brick look. The secret? Good coffee, good food and good service. The “bronuts” (brioche doughnuts) ain’t bad either.

The ire of Mount Kilauea reforges the world before visitors’ eyes. Nicknamed “the World’s Only Drive-In Volcano,” it’s produced serious lava every day since 1983 with no signs of stopping. Pele—the fire goddess who lives here, according to Hawaiian lore—is on a roll. Occasionally the lava flows spill into the sea, releasing stunning plumes of steam. Don’t miss the petroglyphs, lava tube, lush rain forest, and more than 150 miles of trail, including the four-mile Kilauea Iki loop. The drive here from Kona or Kohala can take two and a half hours, a bit of a long day, so consider reserving accommodations in the town of Volcano. You’ll have plenty of time to explore this otherworldly landscape, and even see the lava glowing in the dark!

Never underestimate the power of shocking pink. The intimate but lively dining room at Dulce Patria—the smash hit by celebrity chef Martha Ortiz—feels not unlike a stage set. Soon after 2 p.m., it starts to fill with high-powered ladies-who-lunch types, cooing over a menu of updated Mexican classics with extravagant, architectural presentations that are at least half the fun. That said, chef Ortiz’s flavorful sculptures really deliver: Tastes are delicate, authentic, and quite delicious. The well-balanced offering presents ample choices without overwhelming, in favorites like the corn-kernel soup, a full portfolio of quesadillas, duck mole, and an extravagant dessert list (gelatin lovers rejoice) that really does drive home the dulce part. A recent seating included telenovela stars and a former Señor Presidente. And who knew there were so many edible flowers?

Don’t let the cozy, unassuming atmosphere of this place fool you—all of the food is simple, seasonal, and elegantly prepared with a light hand. It captures the essence of a chic, neighborhood Parisian restaurant where the service is warm, the wine list well-curated, and every dish feels thoughtful without being fussy. It’s one of my favorite spots in the city for beautifully cooked fish, always fresh and expertly seasoned. The kind of place you’ll want to return to again and again.

From its perch on Travis Park, just three blocks from the Alamo, The St. Anthony hotel has witnessed a lot of San Antonio history. First opened in 1909, the hotel was technologically-advanced for its day (think private bathrooms and automatic doors and lighting), and soon became known as one of the most luxurious hotels in the country, hosting everyone from the local elite to visiting royalty, presidents, and movie stars. Now on the National Register of Historic Places, the 10-story landmark emerged from a multi-million-dollar renovation in 2015, when it was e-launched as part of the Starwood Luxury Collection. The history is celebrated in details like 12-foot ceilings, antique piano, and gold leaf-topped columns found in the emerald-hued Peacock Alley lobby space, and the marble and bronze figures of the Sculpture Garden, while a contemporary style and jewel toned colors are featured in the 277 guest rooms and suites, many of which have park views. (If you’re interested in learning more about the hotel’s past—and hearing some legendary stories—schedule a tour with a staffer.) The light-fill Loggia restaurant is an elegant spot for breakfast and lunch, while the dramatic Rebelle features Texas farm-fresh produce and coastal seafood in its shareable dinner menus. Drinks and light bites are served at the seasonal Pool Bar, set around the outdoor swimming pool and featuring views of downtown; and at Haunt, a sleek indoor space playfully named for the rumored resident spirts. Once a private club for the city’s movers and shakers, The St. Anthony Club now welcomes all with signature drinks like the Triple S.

While it can get busy, Chileno Bay and its beach of the same name—considered by many repeat visitors to be the best all-around beach in the area—offer a calmer vibe than the party-hearty Medano Beach. Those who want to experience Los Cabos underwater should head here for snorkeling or scuba sessions. Expect to see colorful fish, sea turtles, manta rays and sea fans.


There’s a lot to recommend the tourist-corridor beach known as Chileno Bay, or Playa el Chileno. It’s consistently ranked as one of the cleanest beaches in all of Mexico and has earned coveted Blue Flag status multiple times (the award goes to sand stretches that boast excellent water quality, safety, and services). Here you’ll find ample parking, handicap access, restrooms with showers, and nice palapas for free shade. It’s easy to understand why it’s one of the most popular weekend escapes for locals. The swimming and snorkeling conditions are great, especially the farther out you go. During the winter, take a moment to hold your head underwater. You might hear gray whales’ melodic songs in the distance.

Hiking the French Valley is part of the W-trek through Patagonia’s Torres del Paine National Park. It’s about 16 mi round-trip from Refugio Paine Grande to the French Valley Mirador, to see the French Glacier and the Paine Massif as close as you can get. The trail is diverse and only reaches a steep height at the last 5.5 km on the way there. You begin at Lago Pehoe and take grassy paths through the forested valley, on an terrain that the locals call “Patagonia flat,” i.e. an undulating up and down of several feet. On the way you’ll see tiny magenta--and edible--berries that taste just like apples; you’ll cross small glacial streams where you can fill up your water bottle with fresh, wild water. You’ll trek right by the Cuernos, or the “Horns,” another well-known set of peaks in Torres del Paine. Over the French River you go as you get deeper into the valley, over wobbly rope bridges. The final 5.5 km to the French Valley Mirador has you balancing on thousands of loose boulders on your way up. The very top of the trek feels like being in the middle of a Patagonian fishbowl: Paine Massif to your left, French Glacier in front, the Aleta de Tiburon (the Shark’s Fin) and the Cuernos to the right, and turquoise Lago Pehoe behind you.

There is perhaps no landmark of San Francisco, and perhaps even the entire state of California, more iconic than the Golden Gate Bridge. This much-photographed bridge spans the Golden Gate, the strait separating San Francisco (to the south) and Marin County (to the north). The 2.7-kilometer-long (1.7-mile-long) bridge was completed in 1937 in one of the most remarkable engineering feats of its time. Although the idea of traversing the Golden Gate by way of a bridge had been discussed for decades, the fear that fog and wind would make the project nearly impossible discouraged planners. In the end, the bridge was completed in four years at the cost of $35 million as well as the lives of 10 construction workers. A pedestrian path along the bridge offers stunning views of the bay and San Francisco as well as an up-close look at this Art Deco wonder.

One of Mexico City’s most historic neighborhoods—a once-independent city-state politically joined to the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan—Tlatelolco is a fascinating side trip few tourists make. At its center lies the district’s so-called Square of the Three Cultures, where a colossal public housing development (of revitalized interest to architecture buffs) surrounds a 17th-century Spanish church (notably embellished with stained-glass windows by 20th-century artist and architect Mathias Goeritz) as well as the ruins of pre-Hispanic Tlatelolco pyramids and other structures. In addition to being the exact spot on which the Aztec empire fell, the square was also the site where Mexican armed forces perpetrated a bloody 1968 massacre of university students and political activists. Tragedy aside, the area is still home to thousands of hardworking average Joes, and the community garden, known as the huerto, is pure down-home bucolic charm; it’s well worth a pop-in.