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Founded in 1982 by local poet Rubén Derlis, this café once served as a meeting place for writers, artists, and left-leaning thinkers anxious to speak freely after years of fear and oppression under Argentina’s late-’70s military dictatorships. Order the picada, a charcuterie and cheese sampler; lubricate with a traditional local-favorite drink like a Fernet-and-Coke or a Cynar, the tangy artichoke liqueur mixed with pomelo, a sour, grapefruit-flavored soda. Wood paneling and exposed brick, walls covered in photographs, and shelves packed with antique objets make La Poesía an inviting space to linger over a book from the lending library or listen to the live tango music played on Tuesday and Thursday nights.

This super-exclusive private club opened recently in the chic Palermo Soho district. Members or friends of members can go to the garden bar for poolside drinks. It’s all the buzz in Buenos Aires. 54/(11) 4832-5276.

A two-hour drive south of Buenos Aires is the huge and pristine laguna of Chascomús. Fed by several streams, it’s a popular destination for fishermen, boaters and windsurfers. Rent a bicycle in the town to pedal around the lake, or hire a rowboat for an hour or two - you might catch a fish without even trying.

There’s a lot more to the San Fermín festival than the running of the bulls. In Pamplona, a skeptic learns what it’s really like to attend the biggest summer fiesta in Basque country.

Uncorking Switzerland’s Secret

Milonga references a style of dance intrinsic to the Argentine tango and Afro-influenced in style, known to be less formal and more rustic. This particular evening in Buenos Aires at La Catedral was serendipitous. I sat in awe watching couples dancing tango, spiralling by sexily, while I day dreamed to do as they did. The setting was dark, the atmosphere, artistic and the evening, late. After many bottles of wine and nearly dawn, we experienced a most organic moment of sound and song with the few remaining locals. They surprised us with acoustic guitar, drumming and singing that had us in a trance. It was a beautiful moment of unspoken camaraderie translated rhythmically. Come to find out, this is a typical evening at La Catedral, locals mastering the dance of love to a live band. Lessons are offered as well.

It’s small compared to other capitals, but Panama City’s historical role as a port and part of a canal that brought together people, commodities, and customs from every corner of the planet endows it with a cosmopolitan air. Come visit a tiny giant.

The picturesque beaches along Aruba’s west coast lend the island an air of escapism unmatched in the Caribbean. Amid the white sands and sparkling waters, there are a wide range of accommodations, from supersize resorts to more boutique offerings.

The historic El Porteño building, a onetime grain warehouse made of imported Manchester bricks, was slated for demolition in 1998 before a local cultural preservation group stepped in. Soon after, Argentine fashion designer Alan Faena picked it up and hired designer Philippe Starck to turn the old mill into his outlandish dream of a hotel, the Faena Hotel. It opened in 2004 on the now-gentrifying Puerto Madero waterfront, becoming an anchor for future developments—apartment buildings, international hotel brands, and ritzy restaurants. The Faena dares to be different in every aspect. Guests are introduced to the hotel creators’ own ideas of luxury, where black marble meets claw-foot tubs and red velvet meets white leather. The property has become something of a social center and playground for the wealthy, attracting locals to the funky cabaret with nightly tango performances, now almost legendary, or to the antique book–lined lounge and 1920s throwback decor. Multiple restaurants and a pool bar, fronting one of the largest pools in the city, help maintain a steady stream of activity.

Teatro Colón is considered one of the most beautiful theaters in the world. Though the theater was, to the great disappointment of many travelers, closed for years while undergoing major renovations, the Colón has now reopened and is playing host to a busy schedule of opera, ballet, and symphony. If you can’t get tickets for this legendary theater, try another elegant venue like Teatro Nacional Cervantes or Teatro San Martin. Check out Ciudad Cultural Konex if you’d rather see an edgier contemporary performance of modern dance or theater, or head to La Trastienda to hear live music by some of Argentina’s best young artists.

With a smart and simple chalkboard menu of cheese plates, salads, sandwiches made with homemade bread, good coffee, and Argentinian wines by the glass, Pain et Vin is a lovely venue for lunch or an afternoon glass of Malbec rosado. The Palermo Soho eatery doubles as a tasting space and shop: look for Friday evening events open to the public, or stop by to choose from the excellent selection of boutique wines to take on a picnic to the park.

Bonafide is a classic Argentine café whose roots reach back to 1917 in Buenos Aires. The name stands for “good faith” to reflect his family’s history in the coffee business and a symbol of trust for his clients. They also sell “Bocaditos” (sweet bites) and “Nugaton” (wafers filled with nougat cream), which have become classic Argentine chocolate snacks. Peatonal Sarmiento 102 - Mendoza. Tel: +54 261 423-7915

More than a local institution dating back to the 1850s, the Café Tortoni ranks among the world’s most famous salons. As vintage photos here show, the columned establishment has hosted more literary figures than you can count. Play billiards while you enjoy a latte, or order from the full restaurant menu.

In search of a flightless, sex-crazed, and rarely seen parrot in a land once ruled by birds.

So you didn’t have time on this trip to visit Salta, Jujuy, or other breathtakingly gorgeous destinations in Argentina’s north - put it on your list for next time. At least you can go home with some beautiful handcrafted objects produced in the region’s indigenous communities - and Fundación Silataj, a non-profit fair-trade organization, is the best place to do some responsible shopping. Items at Silataj are divided into four categories: accessories, art, home and textile. Browse through the online catalogue for an overview, or just poke around the store in person. There’s an affiliated shop downtown that’s more convenient for some travelers - Arte de Pueblos (www.artedepueblos.org.ar).