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Hol Chan Marine Reserve, located just a few minutes’ boat ride from San Pedro, is the place to go for snorkeling in Northern Belize. This small, protected area (Hol Chan means “little channel” in Mayan) is home to part of Belize’s barrier reef, which is the second largest in the world (after Australia‘s reef), and the largest healthiest. There are many tour operators out of San Pedro that can take you out for a half-day of snorkeling the reef, and you’ll see colorful coral, rainbow fish, and manta rays, among other marine life. Make sure your guide brings you to Shark Alley, where nurse sharks come to feed on the fish scraps boats leave behind. There, you’ll be able to swim mere feet—or even inches, if you dare—from the creatures.

Though Belize is replete with Maya sites, including some spectacular archaeological examples that are open to the public, Chan Chich may well be the only hotel in the country that can claim to sit atop a known former Maya site. In the late 1980s, owner Barry Bowen sought and received permission from the country’s Department of Archaeology to build on the site, whose plaza was beyond repair. No doubt guests are surrounded by the spirits of ancient Maya as well as actual artifacts that remain hidden in the soil around the lodge. Accommodations are individual casitas and cabanas decorated with local art, fresh tropical flowers, and simple but sturdy furnishings. The hotel is part of the historic 130,000-acre Gallon Jug Estate, which is, among other things, a private nature preserve. Guests enjoy wildlife spotting on the property, whose staff has kept a running list of the bird species seen here: the current count tops 350 types.

The Maya Beach Hotel’s bistro is hands down one of the best restaurants in Belize—in fact, it’s been named Belize‘s restaurant of the year not once but twice. The food is a French spin on traditional Belizean fare, and the outdoor seating area is right on the beach, just steps from the Caribbean Sea. Order the coconut shrimp (served with a spicy mango sauce) and the roasted pumpkin-coconut-green chili soup to start, and lobster grilled cheese (with cheddar, brie, and brunoise) or layered veggies (roasted potatoes, onions, and plantains with a tomato vinaigrette and jalapeño-tofu aioli) for a main course.

One of the world’s best beaches according to UNESCO, this beautiful palm-lined stretch of golden sand 40 minutes north of Punta Cana is known for its top-rated surf school and its oceanfront restaurants that serve delicious, Dominican-style fish plates. Catch some waves at one end of the beach, then swim in the calm water at the other, where fishing boats loaded with red snapper and lobster pull ashore. Mid-beach, you’ll find food and drink stands alongside activity concessions, from buggy rides in the dunes to stand-up paddleboarding, horseback riding, and surf lessons.

On a hill just above the town of San Ignacio, on a site that only covers about two acres, lie the Maya ruins of Cahal Pech. Like so many of the Maya sites around Belize, steps have been taken to ensure that what remains is preserved and that visitors are able to explore structures at their leisure. The name apparently means “place of ticks” and was chosen because the area around the ruins was used as land for grazing animals. Cahal Pech, settled in 1000 BC and no longer inhabited by 800 AD, was a royal palace for a ruling Maya family, and the site consists of seven plazas plus structures that include temples, a ball court, homes and an altar. Not all of the ruins are in excellent shape but climb to the top for wonderful views of the surrounding river valley. There is also a visitor center and museum on site.

Turtle Inn is one of two upscale resort properties in Belize owned by American movie director Francis Ford Coppola. (The other is Blancaneaux.) This inn is in the town of Placencia, but despite its proximity to the town’s services, the privacy afforded by the resort makes guests feel insulated and more isolated than they actually are. The cabana-style accommodations are luxurious and spacious, with high ceilings and exceptional attention to design detail. The architecture blends in with the environment, but inside the cabanas and villas, guests will feel as if they’ve been transported to another part of the world. The decor is inspired by Bali, with hand-carved wooden wardrobes and trunks and richly embroidered textiles and tapestries. These sit alongside ultramodern amenities and conveniences, such as Delonghi espresso machines and iPod docking stations. Common areas include a triangle-shaped, infinity-edge pool and a gift shop with pricey luxury goods, including handbags and clothing.

Before I went to Belize, anyone I spoke with who had already been told me that I had to have a meal at Elvi’s Kitchen. What started out as a take-out burger window in 1974 eventually became a sit-down restaurant serving lovingly prepared Caribbean dishes such as conch soup and fritters, mojo de ajo, fried green plantains, and street corn. During high season you might have to wait in line to eat dinner at the restaurant, but most of the time, there isn’t much delay. Save room for dessert. Elvi’s Kitchen is open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Monday through Saturday.

Belizeans have been known to drive to Belize City for the sole purpose of eating Sumathi’s Indian food. Not only is the authentic Indian cuisine worth a trip, the long-running restaurant’s lunch buffet is also one of the best deals in Belize City. The menu includes everything from curries, kormas, biryani, masalas, and dosas to mango lassis. It’s also a solid bet for vegans. Sumathi is set off the beaten path on a residential street and has a spacious interior as well as an outdoor veranda.

Driving in any direction on the Hummingbird Highway, it would be hard to miss this white shack surrounded by cars, in a small clearing immediately next to the road under the shade of a very large tree. Ms. Bertha’s Tamales has little signage, but no signs are needed for locals. Everyone knows about Ms. Bertha Lisbey and her tamales. They are said to be the best in Belize. One of her spiced, gooey chicken-and-corn tamales is a perfect break. Pair it with a hot sauce she has been making almost as long as the tamales, and a cold soda in a glass bottle.


Since Ms. Bertha is now 75 years old, some days it is her daughter who’s the one serving loyal customers and first-time visitors, drawn by the stories that you’ll hear in every corner of the country. The small shack can serve hundreds of tamales a day during peak season yet each one is prepared with the same attention and love. Everyone sits on benches, patiently waiting their turn. There aren’t many places to stop along the Hummingbird Highway, but that’s not the only reason you shouldn’t pass by Bertha’s without turning in. Make sure you stop.

The southern Placencia Peninsula is a laid-back beach destination where you’ll see a little bit of every Belizean cultural group, in addition to a healthy number of expats. The village is where the action is, a main drag lined with Creole restaurants, bistros, fruit stalls, and snack stands. North of the strip, resorts occupy the Seine Bight and Maya Beach areas, ranging in scale from boutique to large, with swimming pools and water toys. Placencia is near some of the most gorgeous diving and snorkeling in Belize, including dreamy islands for day trips—such as Ranguana Caye, Laughing Bird Caye, and the Silk Cayes.

I took this image the first morning I woke up at the Karia Bel’ Hotel in Bozburun, Turkey (a small, quiet town of about 2000). The Aegean Sea was like glass, so still. There was a perfect reflection of the sailboat. It was a moment!

You have a few different options when it comes to stopping for a coffee at The Shops at Downtown, the retail complex inside Hotel Downtown in Mexico City‘s Centro Histórico. There’s the hotel’s own restaurant, which offers comfortable chairs and couches; the chocolate purveyor Que Bo!, which also serves espresso drinks; or one of the several restaurants and cafés in the complex, among them Padrinos, Azul Histórico, and Café Punta del Cielo. Take your pick–no matter where you end up in the center, you’ll find yourself surrounded by a 17th-century building with volcanic walls and lots of history.

Cave tubing is one of the most popular adventure activities in Belize. Like so many things in the country, it is another chance to learn more about Maya culture. In Maya mythology, caves were the entrances to the underworld, known as Xibalba. A rough translation might mean “place of fear,” but there’s no reason to worry these days. Cave tubing requires safety gear and is always done in groups with respected guides who are trained in safety and proper procedure. There are many options for cave tubing companies at Caves Branch and many have been leading tours since 1995. Pick one, go through the safety training, don a slick-looking helmet and life vest, grab an inner tube and you’ll be ready for your adventure down the river into a cave. Best conditions for the experience don’t involve heavy rainfall, so occasionally tours can be canceled, but your operator will judge whether it’s wise to still depart or not. As all companies have to adhere to safety requirements instituted by NICH, there’s no need to worry.

Hopkins Village is a coastal escape with a perfect balance of culture, local and international dining, and some of the best accommodation options in the country. Once a remote Garifuna fishing village, Hopkins has become a full-fledged tourist destination without losing its local flavor. You’ll find yourself immersed in the Garifuna way of life, laid-back during the day and alive at night. The village’s main stretch of beach is one of the safest in Belize, even if the sea isn’t that typical turquoise hue. Inland, explore a host of activities ranging from Garifuna drumming classes at Lebeha Drumming Center or cooking classes at Palmento Grove Cultural & Fishing Lodge to hiking at nearby Mayflower Bocawina National Park. Nights bring options for drinks and dining—try a Garifuna restaurant, but also treat yourself to alfresco gourmet meals at Chef Rob’s. Weekly drumming nights are popular on the beach, as is gazing at the stars from your hammock.

Belizean cuisine includes a healthy dose of Middle Eastern influence, thanks to the small but established Lebanese community in Belize. If you’re on the hunt for authentic shawarmas, kebabs, hummus, and gyros, the tastiest and most affordable versions you’ll find are at Sahara Grill. The restaurant, across from the Best Western Biltmore, might not look like much from the outside, but that quickly becomes a distant concern once you dig into one of the flavorful platters.