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If you’re looking for a day of grape-free respite in Mendoza, head off-the-grid to the hot springs of Cacheuta. The Terma Spa welcomes guests with an assemblage of thermal baths overlooking the scenic Mendoza River flowing downstream from the Andes. The indoor/outdoor thermal spa circuit winds through waters ranging in temperature from 73 to 105 degrees. Bubble beds, a water volcano and foot baths are strategically placed throughout the circuit to knead tense muscles. The Natural Solarium has a basin of therapeutic mud for slathering all over your body and baking on the pool deck. Scrub yourself clean in the bithermal hydrojet shower and kick back on the flowering Andaluz patio. Next, head underground to the vaporarium and detoxify in its natural steam. Relax in the verdant garden until you’re ready for an afternoon spa treatment or another convalescing soak in Cacheuta’s healing mineral waters.

More than a local institution dating back to the 1850s, the Café Tortoni ranks among the world’s most famous salons. As vintage photos here show, the columned establishment has hosted more literary figures than you can count. Play billiards while you enjoy a latte, or order from the full restaurant menu.

O. Fournier is a modern architectural marvel located 80 miles (90 minutes) from downtown Mendoza in the district of San Carlos. It is one of Valle de Uco’s farthest wineries to visit, but it’s worth the drive to enjoy O. Fournier scenic views, distinctive design, and award-winning restaurant. José Manuel Ortega, a Spanish banker, bought the land in 2000 and contracted local architects to begin building O. Fournier in 2002. No expense was spared and no detail was overlooked to achieve Ortega’s vision. His talented wife, Nadia Harón, who delved into her passion for cooking when the pair moved to Mendoza, has become one of the country’s most notable chefs. Her restaurant, Urban at O. Fournier, blends Argentine and Mediterranean-Spanish flavors and traditions using fresh ingredients grown on the property’s 650-acre farm. If you find yourself falling in love with O. Fournier’s wine and landscape, you may just be tempted to purchase a small plot of land from Ortega to harvest your own wine and create your own signature blends. Reservations to visit the winery and restaurant must be made in advance.

This super-exclusive private club opened recently in the chic Palermo Soho district. Members or friends of members can go to the garden bar for poolside drinks. It’s all the buzz in Buenos Aires. 54/(11) 4832-5276.

Possibly one of the most recognized malbec wine labels by the American market, Bodega Norton is one of Mendoza’s most prolific wineries. Founded in 1895 by the Englishmen Edmund James Palmer Norton, the winery has grown significantly under its Austrian management since 1989. Each year, Bodega Norton continues to garner serious accolades for its wines and talented winemakers. During the harvest season, Bodega Norton offers a variety of experiences for wine lovers to get their hands dirty in the vineyard. You can harvest the grapes, picking them off the vine and tasting the flavors of the different grape clusters. You can also choose to be a winemaker for the day, creating your own “blend” of wine, combining varietals and discovering their aromas, textures and complexity. Both experiences require 24-hour advance reservation. Ruta 15, km 23.5, Perdriel, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza; +54 261 490 9700

A five-minute walk from Chacras de Coria’s central plaza, you’ll find Clos de Chacras, a charming historic winery that has been delicately restored. Owned by a winemaking family whose ancestors emigrated from Switzerland in the late 1800s, Clos de Chacras’ wine and cuisine both feature a touch of European flair. The restaurant’s menu is predominantly Italian mingled with hints of French sauces and familiar Argentinean staples and cooking styles. The dishes change with the seasons so that the freshest ingredients are used. The tasting menu offers four courses with three wines, or you can order a la carte. Artisan olive oil, cheeses, ice cream and jam complement Clos de Chacras’ Gran Estirpe wine. In the warmer months enjoy alfresco dining on the patio, or move inside by the cozy fireplace on chillier nights. Monte Libano S/N, Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza; +56 261 496 1285

The Vines of Mendoza Tasting Room is owned by a private real estate group of the same name. It is not to be confused with The Vines Wine Bar & Vinoteca located in the Park Hyatt Mendoza hotel, which too is owned by The Vines of Mendoza. A pioneer in Mendoza’s hospitality scene, The Vines of Mendoza was one of the first places in the province to offer its guests guided wine flights in a communal tasting room. Bilingual wine experts well-versed in Mendoza’s varietals are friendly and informative. It’s a great place to sample hard to come by wines from local boutique wineries. With over 1,300 wineries in the Mendoza region, the Vines of Mendoza Tasting Room can take you on an intoxicating wine tour without ever having to leave your seat. But good luck getting out of it by the time you are done! Espejo 567; +54 261 438-1031.

It’s slightly unnerving when you’re seated too close to the next table in a jam-packed parrilla (steakhouse), the clatter of dishes and voices and the televised futbol game in the background, and your stoic waiter, a giant of a man in a stained white apron, approaches your table. As you tell him what you’d like to eat - steak, naturally, and papas fritas (french fries) and a pinguino (penguin-shaped pitcher) of the house Malbec, you notice that he’s not writing anything down - in fact, he’s not looking at you at all. He saunters off and you wonder if your dinner will ever arrive. A few minutes later, he’s back, plonking a basket of bread on the table, splashing the wine on the paper tablecloth as he pours your drink. And then, course by course, all the dishes you ask for arrive, simply presented on white plates, and the roar of the game and the conversation around you rises to a pitch.


This is Desnivel, a bare-bones San Telmo parrilla that’s nearly turned into a caricature of itself. Some days you’ll find more tourists than Argentinians. Other days, it’s a bunch of local guys sitting around digging into the restaurant’s famous deep-fried beef empanadas. Love it or hate it, it’s a Buenos Aires icon.

For a little old-school San Telmo atmosphere, you can’t do much better than this classic corner bar. Dating from 1864, the antique building started out as a pulpería (general store), the seedy center of a gambling ring and even a brothel before it was converted into the popular restaurant and bar it is today. On your way in, check out the antique cash register and the gorgeous vitraux (stained glass) over the long bar: it’s no wonder this place has been used as a film set several times over. Then pull up a chair at one of the rustic wooden tables, preferably by the windows for maximum people-watching potential. If it’s morning or time for merienda, ask for a cortado with medialunas; otherwise, order an ice-cold chopp (draft beer) and a monster-sized lomito (steak) sandwich.

Milonga references a style of dance intrinsic to the Argentine tango and Afro-influenced in style, known to be less formal and more rustic. This particular evening in Buenos Aires at La Catedral was serendipitous. I sat in awe watching couples dancing tango, spiralling by sexily, while I day dreamed to do as they did. The setting was dark, the atmosphere, artistic and the evening, late. After many bottles of wine and nearly dawn, we experienced a most organic moment of sound and song with the few remaining locals. They surprised us with acoustic guitar, drumming and singing that had us in a trance. It was a beautiful moment of unspoken camaraderie translated rhythmically. Come to find out, this is a typical evening at La Catedral, locals mastering the dance of love to a live band. Lessons are offered as well.

On every Thursday for the past 40 years, women have walked a picket line around Buenos Aires’s most politically significant plaza. They call themselves Las Madres de la Plaza de Mayo, and each mother present has lost a son or a daughter, presumably “disappeared” at the hands of the nation’s 1970s-era military dictatorships. Some days only a half-dozen mothers lead the march; though increasingly elderly, they are still determined to carry on the fight against all forms of oppression. You’d expect it to be a depressing affair, but in fact it’s quite moving to see the crowd of 50 or more supporters march beside the original mothers as they chant, demanding accountability for one of Latin America’s most shameful and violent historical episodes.

In 1910, Argentina received a wave of Armenian immigrants fleeing genocide. Many of the new residents settled in Palermo Soho, and several good restaurants emerged. For something a little special on Friday and Saturday nights, the community hosts a cultural and culinary experience that includes dinner and a show, the proceeds of which allow Armenian teens to visit their historical homeland. Food is served in the school cafeteria, and students wait tables as moms and grandmothers send out delicious, authentic delights. Music and dance, courtesy of the young waitstaff, also lend a lively, festive atmosphere to the entire proceedings.

On weekends, the line to get into Las Violetas stretches halfway around the block. (A little much, you say, in a city that’s filled with lovely cafes?) No, in fact, the locals know what they’re doing. This gem of a corner cafe may be the most beautiful in the entire city, and coming here for weekend breakfast or afternoon tea is a proud tradition. Once you do have a seat—it’s much easier to pull off on a weekday—admire the stained-glass windows and old brass fixtures, and the prim and proper porteño couples of a certain age, out for their daily merienda. You’re off the tourist track here, in a barrio with few other attractions for travelers, so catching a glimpse of the neighborhood’s residents is part of the fun. On the way out, stop in the chocolate shop, located in one corner of the huge cafe, for a little souvenir to take home. But who are we kidding, those chocolates aren’t going to make it much further than your hotel room.

To get a real feel for the Tango culture in Buenos Aires then you must go to a Milonga (Tango club). As I walked into Sueno Porteno Milonga I felt as if I had walked back into a cheesy disco in the 70’s. But instead of the BeeGees, the speakers blared tango music. You can grab a table near the dance floor and simply watch the locals practice their best moves or if you are versed in the tango then you may want to participate. It won’t take long until you get asked to dance if you make eye contact with someone. There was diversity of fashion from casual to formal tango dresses, and a diversity in age ranging from 30 to 80 years old! This is the real deal—tango not for tourists. Don’t show up before 11 p.m. or you will be disappointed: Everyone normally comes around midnight. There is a small cover charge to pay at the door. Photos are generally allowed as long as you aren’t a nuisance.

The historic El Porteño building, a onetime grain warehouse made of imported Manchester bricks, was slated for demolition in 1998 before a local cultural preservation group stepped in. Soon after, Argentine fashion designer Alan Faena picked it up and hired designer Philippe Starck to turn the old mill into his outlandish dream of a hotel, the Faena Hotel. It opened in 2004 on the now-gentrifying Puerto Madero waterfront, becoming an anchor for future developments—apartment buildings, international hotel brands, and ritzy restaurants. The Faena dares to be different in every aspect. Guests are introduced to the hotel creators’ own ideas of luxury, where black marble meets claw-foot tubs and red velvet meets white leather. The property has become something of a social center and playground for the wealthy, attracting locals to the funky cabaret with nightly tango performances, now almost legendary, or to the antique book–lined lounge and 1920s throwback decor. Multiple restaurants and a pool bar, fronting one of the largest pools in the city, help maintain a steady stream of activity.