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Across the river from the Badung Market—Bali’s largest traditional produce and meat market—is the Kumbasari Market (also called Pasar Seni Kumbasari), where you can find craftspeople hawking their wares. Wander among stalls selling batiks, wood carvings, jewelry, paintings, and souvenirs.

This sprawling resort features three luxury properties on one Nusa Dua site: the Mulia, the Mulia Resort, and the top-tier Mulia Villas. Choose a full board or half board package for an all-inclusive experience, complete with butler service (at the Mulia and Mulia Villas) and access to nine different dining venues and bars; there are also beach-level pools—one of them resembling a statue-lined Roman bath—and rows of umbrellas on Bali’s eastern shore. The villas feel like traditional Balinese homes, with indoor-outdoor living rooms that have hydrotherapy pools as well as views of colorful gardens or the Indian Ocean. And the spa is one of the most outrageous wellness temples in Bali, featuring a Finnish wood sauna, aroma steam room, and the region’s only ice fountain.

Founded by a surfer in search of the perfect wave, Nihiwatu is a model of sustainable luxury. The resort’s remote location on the jungle-edged coast of Sumba Island lures travelers looking for true escape and the hedonistic pleasures of private, candlelit dinners in a tree house and hikes to cliff-top spas. But it’s the cultural and community experiences that set Nihiwatu apart from other far-flung hotels. Sumbanese villagers make up 90 percent of the staff, and the resort contributes to the Sumba Foundation, which funds health clinics, water wells, and educational initiatives. Guests can observe island traditions, tour the projects, or volunteer at a school lunch program. From $900. This appeared in the Nov/Dec 2015 issue.

If you didn’t know before you dug into your meal, you might not realize that every item on Sage’s menu is vegan (a nice bonus for parents eating with kids). The jackfruit or tempeh tacos are so good many devoted carnivores choose to get their Mexican food fix here over local nonvegan Mexican joints. Sage also makes excellent vegan burgers, potato flautas, and salads filled with great crunchy textures and pops of flavor. Follow lunch or dinner with a slice of coconut cake or vegan birthday cake ice cream.

Vi Ai Pi is a mix of everything really. Located right on the Legian party strip, it boasts a nightclub, underground bar, restaurant and live music venue. Most people I know skip the rest and head straight for the party and cocktails, but that might just be the people I know...

Creamy travertine floors and castle brick walls of pearl-stone tiles fuse with Asian antiques and dark teak furniture in the Caribbean-meets-Indonesian design at Villa Balinese, on an elevated crescent fronting Providenciales south shore. From the original local art to the antique Moroccan vases and curved bamboo chairs, it makes a bold and seductive statement throughout -- and best of all, every piece of furniture in this villa rental is hand-picked and meticulously placed by its owners. With just three bedrooms, but 4,200-sq-ft of space and 30-foot vaulted ceilings, it’s impossible not to be transfixed by the Alice-in-Wonderland dimensions and sexy stark vibe encountered here. Entering the grand entrance foyer, the eye is drawn almost immediately to the impressive sunken living room, where a wall of floor-to-ceiling glass windows slides open onto a grand marble pool terrace with panoramic ocean views. The infinity pool running the length of the house was constructed with emerald-colored tiles, creating a vibrant contrast with the turquoise-hued sea it disappears into. A 50" plasma TV, which can be raised with a remote click from a recessed hiding place and swiveled to face the pool, is another one-of-a-kind design example. There is no beach access on-site, but the crystal-clear sea running parallel to the property can be reached via a ladder dock. Please note that children under 12 are not allowed, but this property works great for couples or older families.

It was the fifth of seven food stops on our Jordaan Food Tour (http://www.eatingamsterdamtours.com/jordaan-food-tour/), a four-hour gastronomic adventure through one of Amsterdam‘s most scenic and historic neighborhoods. We’d already devoured apple pie, Indonesian sandwiches, ossenworst, raw herring and lightly fried kibbeling. But could we find room for something sweet? Enter Mariska Schaefer, owner of Het Oud-Hollandsch Snoepwinkeltje, an old-fashioned candy boutique that harks back to a simpler time, when kids saved pennies for a trip to the local candy store. As we might have expected, a child about ten was using his birthday money to buy a bag filled with his favorite sweets on the day we visited. “No pictures of children,” ordered Mariska, then turned her attention to the kid’s selections. “I opened the candy shop because I really like Dutch old-fashioned shops; they have so much more atmosphere than the big chain stores,” she reflects. Inspired by her grandmother, she stocks drop, the national sweet, in dozens of flavors in her small shop—some sweet, others salty, still others downright inedible for some.

Though it has a silly name, the Potato Head Beach Club on Seminyak beach is a cool spot to spend the day. A collage of antique 18th-century veranda shades surrounds an amphitheater-like space that contains a beach bar, a grassy lawn, and an infinity pool. Three additional restaurants (one homey, one Southeast Asian, one high-end) and a stellar concert lineup make Potato Head a destination, morning ‘til night. A soon-to-open boutique hotel will extend the party even further. Jln. Petitenget, Seminyak, Bali 80361, Indonesia, 62/(0) 361 473 7979.

One of the top properties in southern Bali, the Four Seasons at Jimbaran Bay is laid out like a Balinese village that tumbles down to the sea. Villas are separated into clusters of 20 to 25 thatched-roof units enclosed by a courtyard wall, making the 156-accommodation property feel more intimate. Modeled after regional homes, they’re adorned with local artwork, traditional textiles, and hand-crafted furniture. Daybeds, private plunge pools, and ocean views are among the amenities, as are offerings such as lavish spa treatments, hands-on cooking classes, and twilight yoga. The resort is even home to a historic temple and shrine, which guests can tour with high priest Aji Ngurah. After a day of exploration or relaxation, there’s no better way to unwind than by enjoying a cocktail on the deck at modern Asian restaurant Sundara, where fire pits warm the air and waves provide the background music.

Nestled in the jungle near the center of Ubud, Komaneka at Bisma is a minimalist boutique hotel that celebrates Balinese artistic expression. Local artisans made most of the wooden objects and furnishings in the suites and villas, which emphasize rich woods, cool marbles, and floor-to-ceiling glass walls that look out at emerald rain forests. Daily deliveries of fruit, flowers, and cookies make guests feel like family, but high-tech conveniences such as in-room Apple TVs help them stay connected with loved ones back home. The Komaneka Gallery at the Monkey Forest property showcases one of the world’s largest collections of art from the archipelago; Bisma guests can arrange a tour, which is included in the price of their stay. You can also stay on site and choose from a lineup of activities, including rice paddy cycling tours and wood-carving lessons.

Day or night, the Lawn is a favorite Canggu hangout. With the grassy expanse and mats to lounge on, a small pool facing the beach, a dining area, and a covered bar, this sunset spot has enough room for everyone. No need to jostle for space. Groups of friends and families enjoy long, lazy brunches, lunches, and dinners, the meals sometimes merging into a fantastically relaxed day. If you’re feeling adventurous, try the Balinese-style babi guling pizzetta, or order a bit of everything from the grazing menu, which offers smaller dishes like crispy lemon squid and fresh rice paper rolls to share. The food is a bit expensive for those traveling on a budget, but the variety of dishes and the fresh ingredients make it splurge-worthy.

The resplendent Raffles Hotel reopened in late 2019 to great fanfare after two years of restoration. Originally built in 1887 as a 10-room hotel, it now features 115 suites with oriental carpets and teak floors to complement four-poster beds and colorful Peranakan-tiled bathrooms. An in-room tablet controls everything from the mood lighting to calling your butler for a glass of bubbly. All have a private veranda to enjoy balmy evenings outside.




The building was declared a national monument in 1987, so the façade has changed little, but the hotel’s food and drink concepts have been revamped with a focus on marquee restaurant collaborations with the likes of Jereme Leung (yi) and Hawaiian-born Jordan Keao (Butcher’s Block). Not forgetting Singapore’s rich food culture, the hotel offers a self-guided Raffles Singapore Hawker Food Trail video hosted by hawker champion and Makansutra founder KF Seetoh. Raffles also offers an exclusive private tour of the Intan, a home museum filled with more than 1,500 objects from Peranakan culture.





The famous Singapore Sling continues to be a draw at the evocative 1920s Malayan-style Long Bar and its peanut shell-covered floor. The iconic drink now has sustainable twist: the hotel plants one native tree in the Kalimantan or Sumatran rain forest for every 25 Singapore Slings ordered.

The Seminyak food scene just keeps getting better, and Bikini, a stylish new restaurant and bar, has upped the ante by taking both interior design and food plating to a much sexier place. Extraordinary dishes—foie gras parfait cigars or elderflower-pickled beets and goat-cheese ravioli or roast suckling pig drizzled with pear and cherry vinegar—provide the basic ingredients of an unforgettable dining experience. If you can’t make up your mind, opt for the Feed Me tasting menu. Bikini is also gaining a reputation for its cocktail menu and skilled bartenders.

Bright and early, just before the sun comes up over Mount Bromo, Mount Semeru and Mount Batok, with ample rolling fog and an epic eruption for good measure. We climbed Mount Penanjakan in our Toyota 4x4 pre-dawn in the headlights of some 1,200 other vehicles. Once at the viewpoint my travel partner and I decided against the same shooting vantage as everyone else - all 3,000 tourists, gah - and climbed down the hill for a better look (and a few square feet to dig in our tripods). As soon as the sun started to shine and illuminate the volcanoes in the distance, all the nuisance and discomfort of the day, all the pain and suffering associated with actually making the trip to Bromo, it vanished. We spent the next hour shooting one of the most incredible sunrises I have ever witnessed. Getting here is a bit of a package-tour nightmare, but so very much worth it in the end.

Jalan Sulawesi, right in the heart of Denpasar in what used to be the Chinese district is the place to go for fabric. Whether you’re looking for a beautiful piece of traditional batik or something a bit more funky, the selection on this street is so vast be prepared to trek up and down it a few times. Try to arrive in the morning because once the sun really starts to heat up the tiny, cramped shops and warm the spoiled food hanging around in the gutters from Badung Market next door you’ll be dying to get off the street.