Search results for

Just 10 minutes from downtown Orlando, in village-like Winter Park, the Alfond Inn has a unique legacy: The boutique lodging was created to provide income for scholarship funds at neighboring Rollins College, one of Florida’s oldest liberal arts schools. If helping students isn’t reason enough to book a stay, the hotel offers lots more incentive. A skylit domed atrium in the Spanish colonial–inspired main building draws your eye to a rotating collection of artwork curated by Cornell Fine Arts Museum, and pet-friendly guest rooms are simple and cheerful. While the hotel is not a full-fledged resort, it offers guests plenty of opportunities to linger. Fire pits and rocking chairs are dotted around the property, and shaded areas for loungers enhance the rooftop pool’s already undeniable appeal. Hamilton’s Kitchen restaurant serves modern Southern cuisine paired with wines selected by an award-winning sommelier. And shops, wine bars, and independent boutiques like Rifle Paper Co. line the town’s Park Avenue, a few blocks away. You can also take a pontoon boat tour for views of many of the Mediterranean-style mansions along the waterfront. Perhaps best of all, Disney and Universal theme parks are only a half-hour drive away.

An intimate gem whose only shortcoming (in some eyes) is that it does not sit on Pink Sands Beach, the Rock House Hotel & Restaurant was a labor of love for the late Wallace Tutt, an interior designer to the stars who was best known for designing Gianni Versace’s Miami mansion. Ten individually decorated rooms in the 1940s private home turned boutique hotel echo that property’s grandeur with king size beds and seaside motifs, as well as sumptuous linens and stone lion heads mounted on the walls in the restaurant. But the real story here is the service: There is always a picnic basket on-hand in every room, a library of games and books is available for perusal on rainy days, and the concierge is happy to arrange in-room pampering treatments if the walk to the neighboring spa feels like too much trouble.

The Mursi tribe of Ethiopia lives within the boundaries of Mago National Park in one of the most remote regions of the country. As is true with other Ethiopian tribes, the Mursi live difficult and often dangerous lives. But as I learned, they also know how to enjoy themselves. Dueling or stick fighting is a popular past time and for the women, beautifying themselves. Men, women, and even children love to paint their faces and wear jewelry and elaborate headdresses. For the women, signs of beauty also include scarification and the wearing of large pottery discs or ‘plates’ (debhinya) in their lower lips. I have to admit that the Mursi sense of beauty is a not pleasant to my eyes and when I found out how they work the plate into their lower lip, it was even more disconcerting. But that’s just on the outside. Through my guide, I was able to exchange a few words with the women in the photo. Despite any hardships they have, they were very friendly and welcoming towards me – we were even able to share a few laughs. In the end, the beauty of the Mursi woman is truly on the inside – they’re not so scary after all.

The indigenous people welcomed the first European settlers in 1851. Soon reports reached Scandinavia, like Ostenson Stine’s: “When you throw your eye upon Puget Sound, and behold the fleet of fish barges, rolling upon her briny breast, a reminiscence of the coast of Norway steals into your soul.” It sparked a wave of immigration, now celebrated in a new $45-million landmark-building near the Ballard Locks. The sleek, sophisticated design has a central atrium evoking a fjord, crossed by bridges and pierced by contemporary stained-glass bird sculptures. While some of the exhibits honor Olde Worlde crafts and tools, expect interactive innovations as well. A fan favorite: pillows resembling giant stones, strewn under birch trunks. Cuddle up and watch gorgeous film footage that could easily inspire a trip—or several—to Europe.

The Sandía Mountains rise to over 10,000 feet behind Albuquerque. From the top, the view over New Mexico is unparalleled: on a clear day, your eyes can take in eleven thousand square miles--almost one-tenth of the state! The quickest way up is the fifteen-minute ‘flight’ on the Sandia Peak Tramway, ascending from high desert to alpine evergreen forest. Swiss-designed, this aerial tramway has one of the longest spans in the world. Hiking, winter skiing and mountain biking are all available at the top, as well as a restaurant--a steakhouse two miles above sea level. (Prices are what you’d imagine at this altitude.) In case you’re wondering why this mountain range is called “Sandía,” which means ‘watermelon’ in Spanish--at sunset, the mineral content of the granite crags glows pinkish-red; along with the green of the conifers, the profile is reminiscent of a cut watermelon...

The Victorian-era glass and wood structure, which looks like a sugar-coated castle atop a grassy slope, is Golden Gate Park’s oldest building. It’s also one of San Francisco’s most splendid historic sites. Wander through five different galleries housing 1,700 species of aquatic and tropical plants along with the world’s largest public collection of high-altitude orchids. The potted plant gallery features rare flowering plants and an assortment of decorative urns and containers from all over the world, including a leftover from San Francisco’s 1915 Panama-Pacific International Exposition. Keep your eyes open for special exhibits, including the annual Butterflies and Blooms, which transforms the conservatory into a magical garden aflutter with hundreds of butterflies.

High-elevation baking might not always (ahem) rise to the occasion...but at Clafoutis, the French family that owns and cooks at this bakery/restaurant has acclimated perfectly to the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. While it might be hard to tear yourself away from red-and-geeen-chile-on-everything while in New Mexico, if you do want to take a break from capsaicin for your morning eats, this is the place. Just to the northwest of the city’s historic core, Clafoutis is one of Santa Fe‘s morning institutions. You can get things to go, but if you wait for a table, you’ll be served café au lait in a bowl along with “Bonne Maman” jams to transform perfectly-textured baguettes into “tartines.” “Bonjour” greets you as you walk in the door, and your eyes will feast on the piles of pâtisseries beckoning from the counter. My wife and I had one of the best chausson-aux-pommes--in or out of France--that we’ve ever tasted. And, in a nod to local tastes, they even offered green chile to go with les oeufs... Be forewarned, though--parking is extremely limited, and weekend mornings are formidably popular. Un peu de patience: so worth the wait!

Marjorie Merriweather Post was a wealthy American socialite and heiress to the Postum Cereal fortune. Her Washington home is now a museum, and the home’s original furnishings have been maintained alongside all the near-priceless collectibles that Marjorie amassed during her lifetime. Thanks to a curator friend who trained her eye to identify pieces worthy of collecting, Marjorie filled Hillwood with museum-quality pieces of furniture, works of art, Russian icons, rugs, and tapestries as well as fine porcelains, glassware, and jade carvings. The collection also includes two rare diamond-studded Fabergé eggs. Every inch of wall is decorated, and luxurious fabrics drape the windows. Some visitors might find it all a bit too ostentatious; others will think it simply exquisite. To say that Marjorie was an obsessive collector is an understatement, and the best way to take it all in is to go on the Mansion Tour. The gardens are as well dressed as the interiors; there are several interconnected garden “rooms,” and each is of a different style, such as French Parterre or Rose Garden. On nice days, you’ll see people picnicking on the grounds.

Who knew Malta was so pretty? Well, I suppose the people who live there knew. I didn’t. There was, to be fair, a lot I didn’t know about Malta, including that the national language is actually Maltese, which sounds like no Mediterranean language you’ve ever heard. But one of the most unexpected delights were the narrow streets of the capital city, Valletta. The closed balconies that jut from almost every house are a major feature; they’re the first thing you see as you walk down Republic Street, the city’s main thoroughfare, where they are painted a uniform dark green. Meander away from the shops and into some of the smaller residential streets, and you will be rewarded with a wider palette. Bright reds and yellows, cornflower blues, pastel greens, and dusky pinks—it’s like something out of a fairy tale. Go feast your eyes.

Tucson is predictably well-endowed with Mexican restaurants...But it’s still worth driving about an hour south to the little town of Tubac for a meal at Elvira’s. Upon entering the cool space, you won’t be surprised to learn that the chef/owner got degrees in design and graphic arts before going to cooking school. The restaurant, family-owned since 1927, is named after Ruben Monroy’s grandmother. Originally located in Nogales, Mexico, Elvira’s moved up to Tubac a few years ago... Have a welcoming “Hola-tequila-shot” (just fifty cents!) while perusing the menu...I had the pipián rojo mole—perfectly tender chicken under a vibrant sauce made with ground pumpkin seeds; my wife tried the day’s light lunch special of mushroom enchiladas with tomatillo salsa, and for out-of-town family, the squash-blossom-stuffed poblano chile relleno “Frida Kahlo.” Beef tongue with salsa verde and the other moles will have to wait for a return visit. Suspended from the ceiling are constellations of lanterns, blown-glass teardrops, flying cherubs—Mexican folk-art with a surreal twist. Your eyes will not be bored. More importantly, neither will your taste buds... (Tubac, incidentally, was the starting point of the 18th-c. expedition that led to the founding of San Francisco, Santa Clara, & San José, CA. Not much of the original Spanish presidio remains, but for the past few decades, “where art and history meets” has become the slogan of this ‘artists’ colony’ in the high desert.)

During my last stay in Seoul, I spent most of my time in the historic heart of the city north of the Han river. I did take a Sunday afternoon, though, to walk around the Gangnam district—the chic high rise–dominated neighborhood south of the river. (As recently as a few decades ago, this area was still rice-paddies.) Just around the corner from Bong-eun-sa temple (which dates from the 8th century), this striking building caught my eye: the headquarters for the Hyundai Development Company. Designed by renowned architect Daniel Libeskind, it’s known as “The Tangent.” In the architect’s words, “the Tangent is a project that is about the relationship between the ever-changing circle of nature and the straight line of technology.” (Those words could also succinctly describe the recent history of postwar Korea.) In my mind, though, because this structure reminds me of one of my favorite artists, this is the Kandinsky building in Seoul. And across the street, beneath the Korea World Trade Center tower, is the COEX mall, Asia’s largest underground shopping center. Grab a bite in the food court and get a feel for the youth pop-culture vibe; a K-pop dance competition just might be taking place on a nearby stage. To get here: Take Subway Line 2, exit Samseong (COEX) station.

Located on a craggy cliff jutting between Meads Bay and Turtle Cove Beach, Malliouhana has views of the glittering aquamarine sea that will hypnotize guests from the moment they arrive to its chic porte cochere. The bright, cerulean open-air lobby with mirrored mosaic-tile flooring tumbles out to a deck where tiered infinity pools are punctuated by ruffled yellow umbrellas, and a cliffside restaurant serves fresh seafood and farm-to-table fare. Built in 1984, this is Anguilla’s original luxury resort, which reopened in December 2018 after a complete restoration following Hurricane Irma. While guests may find it hard to take their eyes off the dazzling Caribbean, the 46-room boutique hotel’s interior design offers its own portal to the sublime with an aesthetic that can best be described as tropical eclectic. Guest rooms are painted sorbet yellow or robin’s-egg blue and feature white lacquer four-poster beds, mural panels by Haitian artist Jasmin Joseph, Venetian glass lamps, and sea-green marble bathroom vanities. All of this somehow swirls together for a look that’s both regal and untamed. Beyond the rooms, guests can look forward to an extended pool deck with fresh cabanas, as well as the Bar Soleil, which offers a prime spot to watch Anguilla’s famous sunsets.

The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes. ~ Marcel Proust. For my inaugural highlight on AFAR, I am starting with my wife’s favorite quote, and a local sight in Chicago. Sometimes people feel they must jet off to some far off exotic place in order to ‘travel.’ However, if you gaze anew at your immediate surroundings with fresh eyes, you will discover an entire host of wonderful surprises. Here we have Cloud Gate, located down in Millennium Park, back before they buffed out the seams. The contrast between the organic form of ‘the bean’ and the structured grid lines, along with the warped fun house mirror quality of the city, makes this a truly unique destination.

Why we love it: A family-run hotel with eye-catching design and sustainable architecture

The Highlights:
- Rustic wooden cabanas surrounded by water
- Private plunge pools in each room
- Tasty local food, including breakfast, snacks, and dinner upon request

The Review:
Holbox is becoming more and more popular, thanks to its chill vibe, powdery beaches, and relative privacy compared to Tulum. Among the island’s best places to stay is this family-run retreat, just a few blocks from the shore. Here, the unique geometric design features 12 whitewashed, thatch-roofed cabanas surrounding a flooded central deck-cum-pool. Each room opens directly onto a private plunge pool that connects to the main one, creating the feeling of an overwater bungalow.

Guest room interiors are carved from sustainable cedar wood, lending a rustic air that melds perfectly with Holbox’s laid-back, eco-conscious atmosphere. There’s not much in the way of furniture beyond a few shelves and a bed clad in organic sheets, but that helps keep the focus on the fragrant cedar. Daily breakfast is included as are afternoon snacks. With advance notice, the chef will also cook you an authentic Mexican dinner using local ingredients. If you’re in need of a tipple, a tower adjacent to the lobby area has a bar with well-made cocktails and stunning ocean views. Just don’t expect fast Wi-Fi or much in the way of amenities—here, it’s all about island time.

Rising from the ashes of the 60’s Red Lion Hotel is the east side’s latest entry into Portland’s hip hotel scene—the Eastlund. Cut from the same pedigree as the downtown Modera Hotel, the Eastlund is a welcome upgrade in the evolving convention center area. The fun starts in the bright, expansive lobby, where eye-catching art welcomes visitors. The staff is tuned to deliver exceptional customer service, and the vibe is genuine and unpretentious. Amenities include great food, local spirits, tech-savvy rooms, and super-fast Wi-Fi throughout the property.

The rooms and public spaces put art front and center, while the meeting areas are wired for productivity. Business and leisure travelers also benefit from attention to detail and a staff committed to getting it if it’s not already available. The efficient, comfort-forward rooms boast big flat-screens and colorful décor, and the river and city views from the upper levels are spectacular day and night. An easy MAX ride from the airport, The Eastlund is also delightfully located within walking distance of a variety of transportation, entertainment, meeting, and dining opportunities. With so many on-site amenities, however, you might just find yourself pleasantly planted during your Portland stay.