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Housed in an elegant Victorian building, this bohemian coffee house sits in the heart of the Grant Street corridor—one of Buffalo’s most diverse neighborhoods, with a community of immigrants, scholars, and artists. Since opening in 2008, it’s been a driving force in encouraging new businesses to put down roots in the area, proving that if you build it, they will come. Here, guests can grab a table outside with their café au lait and freshly baked pastry and take in the sights and sounds of Buffalo’s West Side. Should you be looking for something more substantial, however, head next door to owner Prish Moran’s newest project, The Tabernacle, where you can indulge in everything from Spanish to Irish cuisine in a kaleidoscope-like space filled with Renaissance paintings, Space Age murals, and bright pops of color.

Having been raised on National Geographic magazines, I have always been fascinated by western landscape of America. The jagged peaks of Tetons have been on my to-see list ever since I have known the works of Ansel Adams. Last labor day weekend, my husband and I could finally make a trip to Grand Teton National Park in northwestern Wyoming. We started our trip by flying into Salt Lake City, Utah and then drove about 5 hours north to Jackson Hole in Wyoming. The roads are beautiful, the landscape mind blowing. We were in the Jackson Hole area for about 4 days and one of the days we left our car behind and instead rented a bike to go back and forth between the Teton National Park and Yellowstone Nat Park. It was worth every single aching muscle :)

The Museo del Novecento (Museum of the 20th century) is a visual lesson in one century of Italian art history. Housed is the 1930s Palazzo dell’Arengario by Rationalist architects Piero Portaluppi and Giovanni Muzio. The Novecento also houses an amazing collection, Who’s Who of the 1900s, including Italians Balla, Modigliani, Boccioni, Martini, Morandi, and De Chirico and international artists like Picasso, Matisse, and Klee. In fact, the museum is considered one of the world’s most important collections of Italian and international 20th-century art in Italy—Futurism, Spatialism, and Arte Povera. Keep your eye out for Piero Manzoni’s clever Arte Povera pieces, Arturo Marini’s large stone figures, and Pellizza Da Volpedo’s monumental painting Il Quarto Stato (The Fourth Estate). Martini also did the palazzo’s exterior bas relief. Bonus: The upper level bar/restaurant overlooks Piazza del Duomo.

It’s one of the hardest reservations to score in the country, but not just because of its diminutive size (22 seats in all) or limited days of operation (Wednesday to Saturday; dinner only). For one, the Catbird Seat feels both intimate and exclusive: Guests are seated at a U-shaped counter that surrounds a central open kitchen. Then, there’s the thrill of the unknown.

Strategic Hospitality, the Nashville-based restaurant group started by homegrown entrepreneurs Ben and Max Goldberg, has hired a roster of notable chefs for extended stints, giving them carte blanche to create whatever inspires them during their tenure. Among them: Trevor Moran, an alumnus of Noma in Copenhagen. Since January 2016, Chicago-born chef Ryan Poli (another Noma vet, who also trained at the French Laundry) has held the reins, calling upon influences from his two-year stint working in kitchens around the world. A couple of recent hits: an umami-rich black truffle risotto made with sunflower seeds instead of rice, and noodles made with nori and spiked with zesty yuzu.

“Are we still going to ride?” I ask, glancing at the storm rolling off the jagged peaks of the Absaroka mountains. Wrangler Dallin Maples, 25, responds by handing me a long, yellow raincoat as the first drops splat on the hard brim of my hat. “The trails up the hill will be too slick,” Maples says, “so we’re going exploring.” With that, he pulls his horse into the trees, and three of us follow. I’m visiting T Cross Ranch, a small, rustic guest operation in northwest Wyoming, with my wife and three daughters. As a schoolteacher about to start another busy year, I wanted to bring my family somewhere special before hectic schedules take over our lives — somewhere quiet, where we would be forced to turn off our toys and actually listen to each other. Holing up in a simple log cabin at the end of a remote mountain road seemed like just the ticket, and the old-fashioned family fun of a guest ranch seemed like the perfect level of excitement. Dates: Open through late September Highlights: This small, remote ranch embodies traditional Western hospitality, and they have spectacular, well-kept horses, to boot. Rates: $1,690 adults for six nights

There are over 100 excellent guest ranches in the Western U.S., offering a range of family vacations. Brush Creek Ranch, in southern Wyoming, is one of the more exclusive properties, offering an enormous range of activities on 15,000 acres of stunning high-mountain ranchland. This is the main lodge building, looking out over the horse pastures.

You’ll have to pick your jaw up off the ground before you start your alfresco breakfast or dinner on Elk Island, in the middle of Jackson Lake in Grand Teton National Park. Just one mile from Elk Island (the largest island in Wyoming—not a hotly contested title), the hulking Mount Moran explodes up 7,000 feet from the lakeshore. It’s so close you might be able to spot crevasses on one of its glaciers. In this setting, standard fare—trout, steak, and chicken at dinner, and eggs, pancakes, and hash browns at breakfast—tastes almost sublime. The cruise to and from the island is a bonus.

Lake Geneva is one of the gems of the Cloud Peak Wilderness. The picturesque lake, nestled in between great rocky mountains and old pine forest, is roughly 3.5-miles from the Coffeen Park trailhead, which makes it a breeze to access for hikers of even moderate experience. The trail to Geneva skirts Edelman Creek and runs past beautiful Duncan Lake, a host of old mine camps, and finally runs through the Big Goose Creek at a crossing that is at once thrilling and quite safe.

Geneva is one of my favorite destinations in the Cloud Peak Wilderness because it serves so many purposes - I love to overnight near the shore when taking off on long backpacking adventures, I get a kick out of running the trail to the lake when I’m feeling spry, and I’ve found few places this picturesque during all my time in the mountains. The view from Geneva Pass (pictured here) is simply unparalleled.

After driving just over six hours from Denver into the northern reaches of Wyoming, I needed to crash for the night. Taking the Buffalo (population 4,585) exit off the interstate, I cruised towards downtown passing a Holiday Inn Express, a Super 8, and a Day’s Inn. Did I really have to spend the night in a modern matchbox of a room? No, in fact, I didn’t. I used one of my lifelines and called a friend, asking her to do a quick Google search. Bingo! She said, “Go to the Occidental!” almost in the same tone Horace Greeley had uttered, Go West, young man.” In the front window, a sign read: “Wireless in 1880 and still wireless. Internet in all rooms!” I opened the front door and walked directly into the 19th century – a Tiffany chandelier, an embalmed moose head, and a roaring fireplace in the lobby of this 130-year-plus historic hotel. According to the owner, the Occidental’s been witness to a parade of Western icons: Butch Cassidy, Calamity Jane, Buffalo Bill, Owen Wistler, and Teddy Roosevelt. I kind of liked the idea I’d be sleeping under the same roof, as had this gang of five. Fully restored in 2007, the names of the rooms themselves conjure up another era: The Bordello, Cowboy Bunkhouse, and Madam’s Retreat, to name a few. I happily wound up in the Cottonwood Suite, boasting a four-poster king bed, an ensuite bathroom, and dressing room. Twenty-first century comfort amidst 19th century antiques. If you’re in the area, this is the place to spend the night.

Sit down to dine at The Mansion, and you may come face to face with a spread that looks like this: Skagit River sockeye salmon with green risotto and confit tomatoes; Snake River flat iron steak with beet sauce; and sprigs of fresh lavender in a dainty vase. Certainly you can be sure you’ll be sampling the finest Pacific Northwest bounty, given the restaurant’s commitment to sourcing most ingredients—including stone fruit, mushrooms, oysters, Mangalitsa pigs, and greens—from Orcas Island and its environs. The restaurant occupies the waterfront veranda of historic Moran Mansion, part of Rosario Resort & Spa and named for shipbuilder and former Seattle mayor Robert Moran.

See proof that the idea behind national parks—preserving spectacular landscapes—has been successful at the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. In 1871, William Henry Jackson took more than 100 photos with an 8x10 plate camera. (His photos were a large part of why Yellowstone was, in 1872, named the world’s first national park.) Jackson took several shots of various places in the 24-mile long Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, including of the Upper and Lower Falls. In 2017, Jackson-based photojournalist Bradly J. Boner published the book, Yellowstone National Park: Through the Lens of Time, in which he rephotographed all but one of Jackson’s images. The book shows Boner’s modern-day photos side-by-side with Jackson’s. It turns out the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone is very little changed.

Skiing, celebrities, and log cabins might come to mind when you think of Jackson, Wyoming, but the just-opened Anvil Hotel offers a hyperlocal new take on the picturesque town. New York design firm Studio Tack transformed a motor lodge into a 49-room hotel with a Shaker-inspired mid-century aesthetic, complete with iron bed frames and Woolrich blankets. Downstairs, there’s a general store selling hipster Western gear, as well as plenty of places to mingle with travelers and residents, including a zinc-topped bar serving cocktails by the famed New York City−based Death & Co. team.

Handmade quilts top pine beds in the 37 cabins of this 1920 lodge in Grand Teton National Park. Horseback rides, cycling excursions, and epic views of the Teton Range are all part of the experience; lucky travelers might spot elk, bald eagles, and osprey. A hearty breakfast spread and a decadent five-course dinner (mushroom tarts, grilled haloumi cheese, cumin-dusted lamb) are also included in the price. For an additional cost, guests can raft 10 miles down the Snake River or take a multiday wildlife photo workshop.

Whether you’re looking for a family-friendly itinerary or a route that hits the state’s most beautiful outdoor areas, here are 6 great road trip itineraries in Wyoming.