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Both South American countries claim the spirit as their own—but who’s right?

Where to Eat, Drink, and Stay in Milan—According to a Chef

14 Times Travel Went Really, Really Wrong for AFAR Staffers

Overview

Wandering Chef: John Gorham in Barcelona and Madrid

Wandering Sommelier: Spencer Cruse in Sicily

Wandering Sommelier: Jean K. Reilly in Greece

Purely based in small eateries, some of which are over a century old, this city has become a foodie beacon in Europe. A much deserved change of the long lasting impression that Porto was only about Port Wine. The truth is that these places are not fancy. Not by any means! They are frequented by all social classes and nowadays it is common to see a banker sharing elbow room with a mail man at some of these tiny little places

Take two days to explore this coastal town, then venture to other villages along the Italian shores. Be sure to hike from Santa Margherita to Camogli along the edge of the Portofino promontory.

Thriving marine life and crystal-clear water make Curaçao an unforgettable snorkeling destination. At Tugboat Beach, you can head 17 feet below the surface to explore a sunken vessel. Mushroom Forest is known for its hard corals and cute (creepy?) critters. And at Playa Grandi, you can watch turtles glide close to shore while fishermen clean catch every afternoon. Dance with the fish along PortoMari beach, or plunge deeper to explore its double reef system. Dive shops abound for PADI classes or equipment rentals—get ready to merge with Mother Nature.

In Oporto, Portugal, you can take a river cruz if you want. There are several choices from 50 minute boat tours to several hours or even several days. I chose to go on the 50 minute “Six Bridges” river cruise. I started at the Cais da Ribeira where you purchase your ticket and board the boat. We passed under the six bridges of Oporto on a relaxing tour and took in the glorious view of the World Heritage site of Oporto up on the hills. The wine cellars of Vila Nova de Gaia were spread out on the opposite side of the river. The views were magnificent of many old historic buildings and old cathedrals and churches. At the mouth of the Douro, we viewed the waters beyond known as the “land of the fishermen”. The Douro River is a beautiful river that sparkles under the azure sky as the sun shines down on its pristine waters. I was rewarded with a serene and happy feeling as I disembarked from my short cruise. I definitely recommend cruising the Douro while in Oporto. The difficult part is choosing which boat cruise to enjoy. Of course, it depends on how long you are staying in Oporto. Plan ahead, of course, and work this adventure into your trip. You will be glad that you didn’t miss it. Info: www.portodouro.com/cruzeiro-das-seis-pontes-cidade-porto

Set amid the mangrove swamps, coastal lagoons, and stretches of coral reef in Portobelo National Park, this Design Hotels property features just five colorful villas. The “houses” range from a small, one-bedroom retreat nestled near a waterfall, to an over 8,000-square-foot residence spread over two floors. The whole property is awash in a kaleidoscope of vibrant hues, from the bright interiors with their boldly patterned tiles, decorative fabrics, and local artwork, to the multi-colored lounge chairs surrounding the infinity pool, which seems to merge seamlessly with the turquoise Portobelo Bay. Those seeking adventure can take a deep-sea dive to explore the wreck of a C-45 airplane, while guests looking to relax can book an outdoor massage on the hotel’s century-old barge.

On the steep hills above the truffle-obsessed town of Livade in central Istria, Croatia, a man named Vlado Tomažič makes olive oil on his family’s farm. When my husband and I rented the apartment, Casa Maršić (casamarsic.com), adjacent to the farmhouse, we found it the perfect base for exploring the nearby medieval hill towns. We visited Motovun-Montona and Oprtalj-Portole, where we ate fuži, traditional Istrian pasta, with fresh mushrooms and grilled lamb chops at the fantastic Tončić agritourism (agroturizam-toncic.com). We happened to be at the farm during the October harvest and helped Vlado’s friendly crew rake the olives from the trees, taking frequent breaks for gemišt—white wine and sparkling water. Classic Journeys offers seven-night tours of Istria. This appeared in the August/September 2014 issue.

The proprietress, her team, and the Mushroom Stand have become important staples at the Baltimore Farmers’ Market. With a huge following in Baltimore, she is known to many as the “Mushroom Lady” because she sells the most amazing mushroom dishes. The favorite (well, my favorite really) are the mushroom fritters: oyster mushrooms, beer-battered, fried, served over greens with sheep’s cheese, basil, and their special homemade hot sauce (if you like hot sauce, you should ask for a generous helping). Other equally great dishes include the portobello quinoa and portobello sandwiches. The portobellos are marinated and roasted on what looks like a big smoker. All dishes are served with the cheese and hot sauce. A logistical note: the wait can usually be a bit long, but you’ll make friends with fellow mushroom lady groupies in the process. Do a lap around the expansive market and you’ll run into a long line towards the back (not far from the pit beef stand) where people are waiting for their mushroom dishes. You’ll pay first near the fresh mushrooms and you’ll be given a number. Find a table or a parking block and don’t wait to eat. You’ll guaranteed be asked what amazingness you’re eating or bond with fellow Mushroom Stand patrons over the deliciousness.

The wine bar Vinologia: La Maison des Porto specializes in the city’s namesake port. Drop by the cozy tasting room to sample one of 200 bottles, mostly from regional small-batch producers. Rua de São João 46, 351/936-057-340 This appeared in the January/February 2012 issue.