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There’s a pleasing bit of cognitive dissonance happening at Meliá Hanoi. Housed within a green-glass, part-cylindrical tower, the hotel tempers sleek European-style hospitality (think streamlined gray and cream furnishings and high-tech amenities like flat-screen TVs and satellite channels) with touches of local influence: depictions of pagodas and traditional gateways figure in giant murals along the walls and central column in the lobby, and lantern-inspired pendant lighting hangs in the guest rooms. The hotel sits in theHoan Kiem district, within walking distance of the lake and the Old Quarter, making it an ideal base for urban exploration, but there’s also plenty on site to keep you occupied, from the Mediterranean buffet and the palm-fringed outdoor swimming pool to the fitness center and Marquee Club, a nighttime haunt that attracts young Hanoians intent on drinking and dancing into the wee hours.

Black Rock Lodge is the ultimate Belizean jungle lodge, located a few miles outside San Ignacio and down a dirt road that leads you into a high-walled, karstic river valley. All the cabinas are perched on the hillside with spectacular river views and wildlife viewing opportunities from the front porch. The main dining area offers more opportunities to spot birds and monkeys on the opposing hillside or watch intrepid guests go over the waterfall on an inner tube directly below. The lodge is a great place to base yourself for a range of activities and sights, such as Maya ruins, cave exploration, canoeing and rafting, hiking and bird watching.

When hiking in parts of South Korea’s Seoraksan National Park, you won’t go thirsty. Spectacular crags all around, rustic restaurants dot some of the trails. Mountain spring water combined with rice from nearby paddies leads to fermentation...and voilà: “rice wine!’ Yeah, the milky-colored contents in the bowl look like porridge...but that chunkiness comes from the fact that the beverage is semi-frozen. Ladle some into your bowl and sample some of this very local “dong dong joo.” (If you’re familiar with Korean liquor, this is similar to ‘makkeoli.’ If not, there’s something else for you to try.) Slightly sweet, a hint of sour, and ice cold. It wasn’t my wife’s favorite, but I bottled up what she couldn’t finish--yep, the little establishment let me fill up my empty water bottle with it so I could take it ‘to go.’ Ahh, the alchemy of rice and mountains... [This particular ‘rest-stop’ for hikers is located on the trail to Biseondae in the Cheonbuldong valley. Avoid autumn weekends at all costs--the crowds are formidable.]

Sure, the menu comes in a dozen languages, but Zeughauskeller is no mere tourist trap. Occupying a 15th century building on Paradeplatz, the setting—arched windows, wooden ceiling beams and stone columns—is transportive, while traditional dishes include the Bürgermeister Schwert (veal steaks pounded thin and wrapped around a long sword blade and grilled). The house beer is an exclusive from the local TurbinenBräu brewery.

One of the most talked about hotels in Paris, Hotel Costes is located in one of the most fashionable streets, Rue Saint Honore. The hotel is best known for its fine bar and courtyard cafe and for its sexy atmosphere and crowd. If you don’t book a room there, make sure to come at least for a drink.

If you’re looking for tropical tranquillity, bypass Maui’s buzzy resort enclaves and head away from the coast to the island’s laid-back Upcountry, where you’ll find Lumeria. At the 24-room wellness retreat, visitors can start the day with a guided sunrise meditation, then strengthen their yoga practice, learn to hula or surf, and go snorkeling off the North Shore. Spa treatments include Hawaiian massage and acupuncture as well as nontraditional therapies like crystal healing and shaman-led journeys. The schedule is flexible, so you’ll have plenty of time to learn about Hawaii’s paniolo (cowboy) culture or just take in the ocean views from your private lanai. Guest rooms feature art by local Maui artists, four-poster beds topped with organic linens, and stone-tile showers stocked with Aveda products, while the Wooden Crate restaurant prepares farm-to-table meals with nearly 200 types of fruits and vegetables that grow on the property.

If you are a fan of the old-fashioned brick-and-mortar bookstore, then you’ll be in heaven at the Strand, on Broadway at 12th Street. The store boasts that it has 2.5 million books, or 18 miles of them. While we aren’t sure how they measured books in miles, if you are looking for something to read, you are sure to find it here on one of the emporium’s two levels. Most of the goods here are used, though the Strand also has new copies of all the latest popular releases. There is also a separate rare-book room for serious collectors in the building next door (ask at the information desk for directions). The Strand also hosts regular signings and readings.

In 2019, Tenaya Lodge became a particularly attractive option for families when it unveiled the Explorer Cabins, 50 two-bedroom cabins for groups of up to six people traveling together. The cabins include a living room with sleeper sofa and fireplace, a partial kitchen (with a fridge, microwave, and sink), and a private deck. Some have bunk beds, and some are pet-friendly as well. The Explorer Clubhouse is a common space for these cabins with grab-and-go breakfast and evening wine and charcuterie.


The cabins are about a half-mile from the main Tenaya Lodge at Yosemite, a 353-room property near Yosemite’s South Gate. Families can also stay in the property’s collection of cottages, with the cottage suites featuring a bedroom with a queen-size bed and a separate living room with a sleeper sofa. Or they can opt for a room or suite in the main Tenaya Lodge.



Wherever they’re resting their heads, they will have access to the main lodge and its restaurant, and outdoor and indoor pools, the latter being key for colder weather. There’s also a family game room with air hockey, foosball, and Skee-Ball, plus a pool table, Pac-Man arcade game, and ball pit. On-site family-friendly activities include guided nature walks, ice skating (an outdoor ice rink opens on the property in late November for the winter season), and seasonal offerings like an Elf on the Shelf scavenger hunt, gingerbread-making workshop, and breakfast with Santa for the holidays. Tired parents can book a treatment at the on-site Ascent Spa for a bit of calm and stress relief.

In an age when many independent bookstores have surrendered to the advance of chain stores and Amazon, City Lights is a true survivor. Since it was founded by poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti in 1956, it has served as a gathering place for San Francisco’s literary communities. Everyone from beat poets to left-wing critics of America have found a welcome here. City Lights is also a publishing house, with Allen Ginsberg’s Howl and Other Poems being perhaps the single most famous book it has put out, though it counts scores of other works by some of America’s leading contemporary literary figures on its list. You can drop in anytime to find an unexpected tome, and the store also has a crowded calendar of readings.

The California Academy of Sciences is an unfortunately stuffy name for an institution that is anything but staid. The country’s largest natural-history museum includes an aquarium, a planetarium, an enormous rain-forest exhibit under a 27-meter-tall (90-foot-tall) dome, and a living roof that looks like a science-fiction fantasy. A visit here can feel like a trip to an amusement park, with a series of attractions to check out, but all of them are educational. The building itself is part of the appeal of the Academy. (Like the nearby de Young, the old home of the California Academy of Sciences was damaged in the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake, and starchitect Renzo Piano designed its very environmentally friendly replacement.) It would be easy to spend an entire day or more seeing all of the Academy’s exhibits, so be prepared to pick and choose among them.

Why we love it: A design-forward property that captures the Detroit zeitgeist

The Highlights:
- Spacious rooms stocked with Shinola products for sale
- A lobby lounge that attracts a who’s who of downtown
- Thoughtful design from local partners

The Review:
From Detroit-based companies Shinola and Bedrock comes this boutique stay in downtown’s burgeoning shopping district. By combining Shinola’s signature craftsmanship with Bedrock’s knack for urban revitalization, the two companies have created a hub for a rapidly changing city, with the lobby lounge serving as a de facto clubhouse for Detroit’s cool kids. Both in the lobby and throughout the hotel, guests will find a pleasingly eclectic art collection (be sure to check out the Nick Cave piece and the wall panels by Detroit artist Margo Wolowiec), curated by local gallery Library Street Collective. Also not to be missed are Southern Italian restaurant San Morello and the speakeasy-style Evening Bar, both run by chef Andrew Carmellini of New York’s NoHo Hospitality Group. An outdoor beer hall and fried chicken spot are forthcoming this spring.

The Shinola marries two historic buildings—the former T.B. Rayl & Co. department and Singer sewing-machine stores—with three new annexes. Since the 129 rooms span all five buildings, guests can expect 50 unique layouts, all designed in a residential style by Gachot Studios. Camel, grey, blush, and deep green tones complement oil-rubbed bronze, soft leather, plush mohair, and American white oak—a palette inspired by London social clubs. (In the hallways, cream walls are accented with “Shinola blue,” a signature color that was developed from a lone paint chip unearthed in the Singer building.) The furniture, wall coverings, and accessories are custom-designed and primarily manufactured in the U.S.; the wallpaper mimics marble found in the basement of the Rayl building; and the bathroom fixtures take cues from the caseback details of Shinola watches. Stocked with some of Shinola’s most iconic products (the Power Supply Extension Cord, shoe polish and leather care, Runwell turntables in the suites), rooms also feature items made specifically for the hotel, from bedside clocks and cashmere blankets to leather throw pillows and bath amenities inspired by Rayl’s. Raid the minibar for local staples like Great Lakes Chips and Vernors Ginger Ale or cozy up in a bathrobe embroidered with “Detroit.”

What sets Pizzeria Biga apart from other Italian restaurants and pizza parlors is the care that goes into their menu and the daily creation of the dishes and pizzas that exit their kitchen. Yet that same care starts long before the wood fired ovens are even lit. Head chef Luciano Del Signore developed a type of yeast with which to make his dough that allows for the absence of sugar, the inclusion of a probiotic, and results a perfectly charred Napoletana pizza pie. Many who struggle with gluten and wheat sensitivities will likely find that his pizza doesn’t bother them. Small plates and an excellent craft beer menu are also tempting but the pizza is the real star of the simple yet extensive menu. I also enjoyed their arugula salad, meatballs, and risotto balls. The large selection of toppings really pleased me as well. However, it’s the basil ice cream and the house-made pistachio gelato that I am still craving days later.

I have eaten a lot of pizza in my time, but Kesté is different. It’s been been firing up serious, foodie-level delicious pizza on Bleecker Street since 2009. Owner Roberto Caporuscio was born and raised outside Naples, Italy, where he studied the art of pizza making with the masters. His pizzeria has won accolades from national food critics, as well as pizza lovers. The 950-degree oven turns out perfectly-cooked pizzas—with bubbling, chewy, slightly burned crusts—in less than two minutes. The wide-ranging menu covers traditional pizzas, gluten-free options, panini (lunch only), and creative pies, including: Pistacchio e Salsiccia (pistachio pesto, sausage, pecorino romano, homemade buffalo mozzarella, basil); Pizza del Papa (butternut squash cream, red and yellow peppers, zucchini, imported smoked buffalo mozzarella); and Sorrentina (imported smoked buffalo mozzarella, sliced lemons, basil). My favorite is Salciccia e Friarielli (broccoli rabe and sausage with imported smoked mozzarella). The slight bitterness of the greens, the hearty sausage, and the smoky, creamy cheese on their trademark crust smells, looks, and tastes heavenly.

While scouting out the remaining lighthouses left standing on the Oregon coast, I was lucky enough time my visit with two gray whales. There’s a vintage whale watching station just across the parking lot at the Umpqua River Lighthouse and with a few quarters, I was able to see the action. By flipping through my guidebooks, I learned that morning is the best time to scout for the views of the mighty whales, that like to hang out at the mouth of the Umpqua River where it empties into the ocean. In the morning light, the sun is at your back at the viewing station, meaning you can spot the whitecaps that the whales create (instead of the ones that the wind and waves create later in the day). At the station, you’ll find a sign with a few helpful suggestions to spot these magnificent creatures. You’re instructed to look for puffs of vapor that seem to hang in the air, just above the water. Those spouts usually rise twelve to fifteen feet into the air and when you spot one, you’re bound to see several in the same area. Soon, you’ll be able to observe the head, back and flukes as the whales roll on the surface.

Usually I take a train across the Øresund Bridge, an engineering marvel that connects Malmo, Sweden, to Copenhagen, Denmark. Unfortunately, the train travels below the vehicle deck, which means you can’t actually see the bridge. And this is a bridge worth seeing. The crossing itself is about 10 miles. Coming from the Swedish side, the first five miles of your trip is over a bridge that floats 187 feet above the water before briefly landing on an island and then diving into a tunnel beneath the sea. The girder and cable-stayed bridge section has two pairs of free-standing cable-support towers that seem to grow in height as you approach . . . until they disappear into the sky. Even on a road that is more than 200 feet above the surface of the water, the tops of those towers are still almost another 400 feet above. Rent a car and take a trip across (either Copenhagen or Malmo makes a good day trip), but be prepared to pay a hefty fee for the privilege. The toll is roughly $60 U.S. each way. Øresund Bridge English-language web page has current toll information: http://uk.oresundsbron.com/page/1087