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Young artists stake their claim to the city’s open spaces.

Chris Walker and Morgan Hartley spent three months cycling through central Asia as part of an 18-month bike trip. Here is part one of five of their account, in which their trip is almost thwarted from the start.

Rooftop cocktail bars are a new craze in Athens, but this place was 20 years ahead of the curve. A prime Athens spot on a hot summer (or spring, or fall) night, Bios is a hybrid of watering hole and cultural center—the rooftop bar is legendary for perfect Acropolis views, but there’s a lot more going on inside: two music halls, a theater, rehearsal rooms, exhibition areas, and additional hangout zones. Events are well-visited by the Athenian cool crowd, but the atmosphere is relaxed, not contrived. Come for culture, company, and sweeping views over the city’s rooftops, under the stars of the warm Greek sky.

With its walls of colorful glass bottles, this charming little bar can be elusive—nestled deep in downtown Athens, in the warren of streets that make up the Plaka. Day or night, Brettos (pronounced Vrettos in Greek) is frequented by locals and tourists alike—the oldest distillery in Athens. While you can opt for beer, wine, homemade moonshine, or perhaps a cocktail, you might kick yourself later for passing up the chance to have an ouzo, Greece’s signature anise-flavored liquor, in such a storied watering hole. Who knows where that first sip might lead?

Part of the Dorchester Collection, this Palace-designated hotel is deeply connected to its setting on the avenue Montaigne, the historic home of haute couture in the Triangle d’Or (Golden Triangle). Just across the street, Christian Dior opened his first shop in 1946 then showed his inaugural collection at the hotel. To this day, the subterranean Dior Spa (currently under renovation before a September relaunch) celebrates the link to the designer. The 154 guest rooms and 54 suites are likewise imbued with a chic couture vibe, whether you choose the classical style or newly renovated art deco rooms, punctuated with pops of red to echo the facade’s geranium-filled window boxes.

If you research “pretty seaside towns in Greece”, Nafplio often pops up on the search. Located in the eastern Peloponnese, Nafplio boasts narrow, bougainvillea-covered streets, rich-hued neoclassical mansions, wrought-iron balconies and cobblestone and marble streets. It is a popular weekend resort for Athenians due to its waterfront cafes and restaurants, fresh seafood, and pretty boutiques. It is also the perfect base to explore all nearby ancient ruins such as Mycenae, Epidaurus, and Sparta. Sip a cold drink in Syntagma Square, the town center; climb 999 rock steps up the Palamidi Castle for the expansive view; swim in the clear blue waters of the local beaches; and take a sunset stroll along the marina waterfront before dinner.

Athens is an incredible city to visit but can feel busy and overwhelming, especially during peak tourist season. Escape the hustle and bustle with a visit to the resort town of Vouliagmeni on the Attica coast. I took this photo from a café right on the beach. We spent an entire afternoon drinking coffee, eating fresh seafood, and watching surfers in the sea.

Dining at the King George Hote’s seventh-floor Tudor Hall restaurant is not to be missed. The Acropolis is so close it feels as if you can reach out to touch it. Seeing the Parthenon lit up in the evening while you enjoy refined, well-balanced dishes such as smoked eggplant salad smashed tableside; scorpion fish with chard, fennel marmalade and saffron; and braised rabbit with smoked Metsovone cheese and plums, is truly unforgettable.

Tudor Hall presents a modern and elegant take on Greek cuisine. The freshest seafood from local waters, beautiful cheeses and herbs, and Mediterranean flavors that just whisper “Greece.” Executive Chef Sotiris Evanelou and Chef de Cuisine Alexandros Koskinas, are two of the best chefs in Greece. Ask Head Sommelier Evangelos Psofidis to pair Greek wines with your courses to taste the nuances of both your food and the excellent wines.

The art collections housed in the great museums of Los Angeles are as varied as the museums themselves. At Getty’s grand villa above the Pacific, marble statues from ancient Greece oversee gardens and fountains. Behind the dazzling ultramodern facade of the Broad, visitors find ultramodern artworks, too. Even when the beaches and rooftop bars beckon, leave time in your schedule to tour these outstanding museums.

Designed in 2003 by Athens-based Tassos Zepos, the Fresh Hotel is a contemporary nine-story building in the gritty, up-and-coming neighborhood of Psiri. It makes up for its somewhat dated design tricks (think hot-pink Plexiglas reception area, Philippe Starck chairs, black leather couches, and all-white rooms) with its great value for money and trendy rooftop bar. Open from May to October, the roof, with its small pool and sweeping views of the Acropolis, is a popular hangout in the summer for stylish locals.

We picked up some gyros to-go during our stroll through the historic Plaka neighborhood below the Acropolis. Thespidos street was particularly memorable for the cafe we stopped at and discovering Brettos bar, which we decided to come back to enjoy as the end a lovely evening.

You can’t miss the Parthenon, the majestic ruin towering above Athens. Originally painted in vivid hues, this feat of architecture, engineering, and artistry is still as awe-inspiring as it was almost 2,500 years ago. Le Corbusier, pioneer of modernism, called it the most “ruthlessly flawless” monument in the world. Hold on to your admission ticket: It’s valid for several other archaeological sites on the slopes surrounding the Acropolis, including the Agora and theater of Dionysus.

Exarcheia is the most unique neighborhood in Athens, by far. It’s not for everyone. It’s gritty, graffiti-laden, and crawling with punk rock kids who are far more harmless than they appear.


But behind its rough exterior you’ll find a dozen bookshops, tiny cafes where old men sit sipping Greek coffee, and an onslaught of art exhibits with political undertones. The neighborhood’s cultural identity is diverse: you can smoke hookah with Syrians or you can dine with the artsy Greeks. Embrace every second of it.

For many travelers to Greece, there’s a conundrum: Do you concentrate on the mainland—Athens, Delphi—or do you spend your time cruising the islands—from fashionable Mykonos to holy Patmos? With Grand Circle Cruise Line, you don’t have to make that decision. The first week of the 15-day Treasures of the Aegean: Greek Island Cruise, Athens & Istanbul itinerary includes the monasteries of Meteora, perched atop rock formations; the town of Kalambaka, Thessaly, where you’ll discover a Byzantine tradition when you stop at an icon-painting workshop and meet one of the artisans; and the majestic ancient sanctuary of Delphi. Then you depart on a cruise to the Aegean’s most beautiful islands aboard a 50-passenger small ship. You’ll call at ports including Amorgos, Delos, and Naxos, where you’ll sit down for an island dinner with some of its residents. While you’ll be following the routes of ancient heroes, Grand Circle assures that travelers also experience modern-day life in the country from those who live, work, and play here. Exclusive Discovery Series events take you deeper, show you more, and give you an unfiltered look into daily life whether you’re dining with a Greek family during a Home-Hosted Dinner, or participating in a cooking class in the mountain village of Arachova.

The belly button of the world lies eighty miles northwest of Athens, where the southern slope of Mount Parnassus, cut deeply by cascades feeding the River Pleistos, drops precipitously into the Gulf of Corinth. High above the ravine in a cleft between the Phaedriades, or “Shining Rocks,” a natural amphitheater was shaped by wind, erosion, and tectonic turbulence over the intersection of two underground faults. This is the omphalos—the spot believed by ancient Greeks to be Gaia’s own navel. Homer called it “Pytho,” because it was here that the Earth Mother gave birth to a female serpent. “Why is it the serpent is always a woman?” The goddess/serpent appears in everyone’s mythology, I remind KB as we approach six massive columns re-erected where the western pediment of Apollo’s temple once stood. “Yeah,” she replies, kicking a loose a chunk of limestone across the weathered foundation, “along with the ‘hero’ who kills her.” KB’s sinewy, suntanned legs straddle one of the pedestals at the entrance to the sekos—Apollo’s inner sanctum—and her belly button taunts me between the waistband of low-slung hiking shorts and the hem of her tank top. “Both Apollo and his twin sister, Artemis, whacked the serpent goddess,” I remind her. “Naturally, the locals erected a temple here to commemorate his bravery. It was named after a cult that worshiped the sun god in the form of a dolphin—Delphinios—Delphi for short.” “How do you remember all this stuff?” KB asks.