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This is river swimming at its most civilized. Zurich’s oldest badi, the men-only Männerbad Schanzengraben, is tucked away near the stock exchange and surrounded by the ivy-draped old city wall (you’ll miss it if you don’t look for it). Come evening, the badi transforms into the popular Rimini Bar, where both men and women mingle on floor cushions and rugs lining the pool’s edge.

A midsummer night’s fantasy—Zurich-style. Tucked away near the stock exchange, the city’s oldest badi, the men-only Männerbad Schanzengraben, transforms into the popular Rimini Bar come evening. The scene is surreal: a mixed crowd mingling along the edges of the pool, a shooting fountain, technicolor lights—all surrounded by the ivy-covered old city wall. On Monday evenings, local fashion designers add to the mix by showcasing their creations.

The hip and edgy kids of Zurich West cool off at this graffitied urban badi on the banks of the Limmat River. They’re either sunbathing on the narrow strip of lawn, dangling their legs off the wooden platform, or taking a plunge into the 400-meter long swimming channel. If you want to follow suit on the latter, take caution: currents can get strong. Tamer pursuits include petanque and beach volleyball.

When the Romans arrived here in 15 b.c.e., they brought their thermal bath culture, and you can still see the ruins. But newer bains thermaux also abound. The village of Saillon has a Rivière Thermale, like a water park’s lazy river, lined with grottoes, steam rooms, and saunas. In Ovronnaz, end the day in bubbling thermal pools while watching the alpenglow recede across the mountain range. ovronnaz.ch. This appeared in the January/February 2014 issue.

Located on the shores of Lake Zurich, Fischer’s Fritz restaurant is located on Zurich’s only campground—a favorite camping destination for the well-heeled city dwellers on holiday. The catch comes straight from Lake Zurich; the restaurant employs a fisherman to cast his net daily. Expect whitefish, trout, perk, pike, wels catfish, burbot and jellyfish to dot the menu. Try the fischknusperli (Swiss fish & chips) or Lake Zurich freshwater sushi prepared by a Japan-trained chef.

While many walked through the streets of the small town, I decided to head along the river and came across this beautiful view of Lake Brienz.

A five-minute walk from Chacras de Coria’s central plaza, you’ll find Clos de Chacras, a charming historic winery that has been delicately restored. Owned by a winemaking family whose ancestors emigrated from Switzerland in the late 1800s, Clos de Chacras’ wine and cuisine both feature a touch of European flair. The restaurant’s menu is predominantly Italian mingled with hints of French sauces and familiar Argentinean staples and cooking styles. The dishes change with the seasons so that the freshest ingredients are used. The tasting menu offers four courses with three wines, or you can order a la carte. Artisan olive oil, cheeses, ice cream and jam complement Clos de Chacras’ Gran Estirpe wine. In the warmer months enjoy alfresco dining on the patio, or move inside by the cozy fireplace on chillier nights. Monte Libano S/N, Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza; +56 261 496 1285

“What wisdom can you find that is greater than kindness?” So said local philosopher and writer Jean-Jacques Rousseau, a statue of whom oversees his namesake island, a wee, romantic spot in the middle of the Rhone where it empties into Lake Geneva. The island-park may be served by two bridges, but it feels like a universe of its own and is a favorite of many visitors and locals in Geneva. The tranquil tree-lined island was once a 16th-century fortification that protected the city, then the site of a bustling shipyard before finally being transformed to a peaceful sanctuary in 1832, when the Pont des Bergues bridge was constructed. (The Pont des Bergues ends across from the 1834 Hotel des Bergues, which was the first meeting place of the United Nations and is now a Four Seasons Hotel.)

Few dishes exude more Swiss tradition than raclette. For more than 700 years, locals have been gorging on this smoky, often nutty cheese in mountain chalets across the country. For a deep dive into the dish’s history, head to tiny fromagerie La Tzoumaz, where Yohann Magnin works for four months every summer making the drool-inducing cheese. Visitors can watch the entire process, from swirling and heating the milk to packing the cheese into a mold, then venture into the back room to get a sense for the aging process (don’t forget to grab a sample). Magnin is the only cheesemaker in town and his factory sits opposite Maison de la Forêt (House of the Forest) as you enter the village from the valley.

Most of Zurich’s department stores have restaurants, but by far and away the most sprawling—and value-oriented—is this spot, atop Manor near Hauptbahnhof. The city’s unofficial canteen has a tantalizing salad bar (that’s priced not by the pound, but by the plate, which you can pile as high as you would like for about 12 Swiss francs or $13), grill (for burgers topped with herbed butter, steaks and local fish prepared as you wait), and sections for pastas, stir-fries, desserts, and fresh-squeezed juices.

Paris has the Sacré-Coeur, on top of Montmartre, for catch-your-breath views of the city. Zurich’s answer: the terrace at ETH Zurich. Also known as the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology Zurich and where Einstein was an alum, it lords high above the city for prime views beyond to the lake, the Uetliberg, and the Alps. The bQm café and bar lets you pair that stellar view with a drink.

Opened in 2012, the Alpina is one of only two newly built, five-star hotels in Gstaaad in more than a century. Situated in a wealthy hilltop area in Oberbort, the hotel offers stellar views of the Bernese Alps (including the Spitzhorn and Oldenhorn) and the valley scenery of the Saanenland—as well as an impressive amount of discreet luxury. Built in traditional Swiss chalet style, the limestone-and wood-structure contains 56 rooms and suites that pair antique and artisan furnishings (wardrobes, tables, carved ceilings) with contemporary design pieces. All rooms have great views, though the higher the better; on the 5th and 6th floors, you’ll find the jaw-dropping, duplex Panorama Suite, with separate dining and working areas, and a fireplace. Furthermore, throughout the hotel’s public spaces, guests can see art by famous artists like Barbara Kruger, Tracey Emin, and Bosco Sodi.

The hotel facilities are some of the best in Switzerland, ranging from an authentically Cuban-style cigar lounge to multiple Michelin-starred restaurants. The hotel’s Six Senses spa spans a whopping 21,500 square feet and includes an 80-foot-long lap pool, while an immaculately landscaped garden, designed by French garden designer Jean Mus, brims with Alpine plants and corresponding fragrances in the summer.

The origin of the name of Zurich‘s Hotel zum Storchen is unclear, but at least one legend ascribes it to a pair of black storks that once nested here. In any case, there is a record dating back to 1357 of a house by that name. Today the 67-room hotel—easily spotted thanks to the stork on its facade—has one of the most enviable locations in Zurich, overlooking the Limmat river in the city’s Old Town. The genuinely warm service makes this hotel stand out from some other options in Zurich.

There are 14 outposts of the famed chocolate shop in and around town, but the one to go to is its flagship, which occupies a prime corner perch on Paradeplatz. There are gorgeous displays of Sprungli’s signature sweet, the Luxemburgerli, Lilliputian takes on the macaron; its exquisite line of truffles; and its dense, rich, uniquely shaped Truffe cake—quite possibly the best chocolate cake ever. Don’t miss its gorgeous second-floor café.

Former interior designer and gallery owner Elisabetta Capei now presides over this shop near St. Peter’s Church. It specializes in artisan handmade Swiss and Italian chocolates. Among her highlights are chocolates by Reichmuth von Reding, a little-known producer whose super-smooth, velvety-tasting bars are made with single-origin cacao beans and are conched for up to 72 hours. In the back of the shop, there’s a small counter with just eight stools for drinking Elisabetta’s hot chocolate, which she whisks herself, making just four to five liters a day.