Search results for

An unassuming little neighborhood restaurant in the shadow of Mount Tabor, Coquine offers one of the best dining experiences in the city. Chef Katy Millard cooks what tickles her fancy, usually something seasonal, vaguely Continental, definitely Northwestern, and always interesting. (One constant, though, is the whole chicken to share, a crowd favorite.) Unlike at many fine-dining establishments, you can stop in for breakfast or lunch, too. Try the chocolate chip cookies, which are so popular that you used to have to call ahead and order them in advance if you wanted them at dinner. Ksandek Podbielski, Millard’s husband, oversees the regionally focused yet still surprising wine list.

First opened as the Remington Hotel in the Post Oak business park in 1982, this 12-floor Galleria-area property became the St. Regis in 2000. And it’s everything you’d expect from the St. Regis—“a place where exception is the rule”—with a side of Southern hospitality. The reception desk and concierge are available any time of day or night, as is the hotel’s longstanding signature butler service.

From the lush landscaping in the circular driveway to plush leather furniture, spectacular chandeliers, and gleaming marble floors throughout the hotel, it feels rich and regal. Guest rooms are equally fit for royalty with floor‐to‐ceiling windows, LG flat‐screen HD televisions, DVD players, audio sound and entertainment systems—and generous, Texas-size real estate. Everything is bigger at the St. Regis, which is known for having some of the largest hotel rooms (at least 500 square feet) in the city.

This picturesque street in one of Paris’s poshest quartiers is dotted with gourmet sweet shops. Beginning at the eponymous Rue du Bac metro station, Chapon offers decadent taste-tests of single-estate chocolate mousses. On the next corner, Jacques Genin sells mouthwateringly good caramels along with his famous chocolate treats. The shops Des Gâteaux et du Pain and La Pâtisserie des Rêves also sell sweets, but this time they’re enveloped in a pastry delivery system. Le Bac à Glaces tries another sugary route: It scoops out the city’s most infamous dark chocolate sorbet. End the stroll at the gourmet temple La Grande Epicerie de Paris, a grocery store filled with more unforgettable tastes of Paris to tuck in your bag and take home.

The historic Flemings Mayfair Hotel, Suites and Apartments is a boutique property that provides a home-away-from-home feel within one of London’s exclusive neighborhoods. Opened in 1851, it was converted from 13 Georgian townhouses dating back to 1731 and is today one of London’s oldest established hotels. Set on a quiet street in walking distance to Green Park, Buckingham Palace, and Bond Street, Flemings Mayfair has been privately owned by the same family for more than 40 years.

Enhancing the historic property with contemporary touches, Fleming Mayfair completed a £14 million renovation in 2016 which included a new dining experience with Executive Chef, Michelin-starred Shaun Rankin.

A décor featuring shades of bronze and soft greys mixing with teal, indigo, and mustard, creates a sleek but soothing retreat reminiscent of the 1930s within the Flemings Mayfair’s 129 guest rooms, suites and apartments. The one-, two-, and three-bedroom apartments, as well as a seven-bedroom Townhouse private residence, are individually decorated and boast fully-equipped kitchens and separate living and dining rooms.

Those who love a terrace view—and honestly, who doesn’t?—will have plenty to drink in on San Miguel rooftops. The most dramatic view is that of El Palomar Hotel, perched at the Centro’s eastern edge, high above it all. The Rosewood boasts Luna Bar, ground zero for popping the question. Hotel Nena offers an intimate rooftop spa along with liquid refreshments, while newcomers like 1810 Hotel Boutique and Casa No Name—no name doesn’t apply to the aptly dubbed Sky Bar—share breathtaking vistas for the price of a drink.

Steeped in history, this Parisian landmark was commissioned by King Louis XV in 1758, though it didn’t open as a hotel until 1909. Since then, it’s seen such notable guests as Franklin D. Roosevelt, Leonard Bernstein, Madonna, and more pass through its doors on Place de la Concorde. Designed in the grand, neoclassical style, it reopened in 2017 as the Hôtel de Crillon after a significant four-year renovation, which revamped most of the public spaces in the luxurious 124-room building. The new lobby feels airier—thanks to higher ceilings—yet more intimate, made possible by converting the formerly open space into a series of sitting rooms. Also new to the hotel is the 28-seat fine-dining restaurant L’Ecrin, a Sense spa with treatments inspired by centuries-old French remedies, and a jewel-like, glass-ceilinged pool. Chanel creative director Karl Lagerfeld even designed the two most luxurious suites, the fourth-floor Les Grands Appartements, adding bespoke furniture, his own artwork, and over-the-top bathrooms and dressing rooms.

“Have you heard about d’Mongo’s? It is Ryan Gosling’s favorite place to visit when he comes to town!” Although I never saw Ryan Gosling, bartender Red knew immediately that I was new in Detroit and that I’d never been in before. She recommended I try the Detroit Brown, made with Michigan’s own ginger ale: Vernors. As I sipped gently from the cold glass and looked over the top of its rim at the eclectic crowd filling the speakeasy, I couldn’t help but think, “Who cares what celebrity does or doesn’t frequent this place, I’d come back here for the drinks and the crowd any day!” Cafe d’Mongo’s draws a crowd every night it is open—which is usually only on Friday, maybe Saturday—and whether the customers come because of the drinks, the music, the crowd, or because they hope to see Ryan Gosling or Mark Wahlberg, the point is they keep coming. There’s an element of secrecy that has kept even my hotel’s valet from being able to tell me how to get to the revered speakeasy, yet it’s one of the first places I heard about when I asked people on the street where I needed to go get a drink in Detroit. If you find yourself at Cafe d’Mongo’s, tell Red I say hello, and order the Detroit Brown.

Félix Meana and Katie Button, veterans of elBulli in Spain, converted Asheville’s former downtown bus depot into a stylish tapas bar. Cúrate means to cure oneself, which diners can do with traditional Spanish dishes such as Catalan sausage bocadillos, codfish salad, and honey-drizzled fried eggplant. This appeared in the July/August 2012 issue. Read Emma John’s feature on the North Carolina bluegrass scene.

Forever on the verge of being the next big target of gentrification, the district known as Santa María la Ribera—northwest of downtown—retains its neighborhoody, down-at-the-heels charms. Its streets are home to a mix of old-school cantinas (all perfectly visitor-friendly) and mom-and-pop restaurants, alongside some neglected architectural gems, hipster coffeehouses, and standard-issue, sometimes grimy local businesses—in short, it’s still real. The district’s centerpiece is its central plaza, known as the Alameda, and its exuberant Moorish-style gazebo (it started life as the Mexico Pavilion at a long-forgotten world’s fair). Recently restored and awash in color, the kiosk is a gem—and the proud emblem of the barrio. Note some amazing old mansions and the spooky Institute of Geology lining the plaza. The nearby Museo Universitario del Chopo—housed in a glass-and-cast-iron former natural-history museum—is a renowned center for avant-garde art that leaves no viewer less than provoked.

Officially named Zalogajnica Dioklecijan—but known only as Tri Volta to locals—this blue-collar hangout knocks out home-style lunches, moonshine grappa and the best sliced-to-order local prosciutto. The terrace is prime real estate, featuring views of the Riva and seafront through three Roman vaults.

Originally built to serve the area’s fish canneries, the Historic Requa Inn, at the base of the Klamath River, is one of the few small hotels right near Redwood National and State Parks. You can come for dinner even if you’re not staying at the inn, which is run by a local family. They offer a prix fixe menu Wednesdays through Sundays from April 1 to October 31. The only seating is at 7 p.m., and what you get is a communal, family-style meal: A small group of people sits around a table and shares a selection of seasonal Californian dishes, which are all crafted using ingredients sourced from a nearby organic farm. (Think of it as having dinner with your family, just tastier.) Make a reservation ahead of time, since spots are limited. Visitors can also pick up a picnic lunch here if they order one 24 hours in advance. Although an old establishment, it’s well-kept; guests will find there is no TV or phone in their room, which provides the perfect excuse to sit outside and enjoy the water going by.

Zum Schwarzen Kameel’s unusual moniker, which means At the Black Camel, grabs your attention. It’s a play on the name of founder Johan Baptist Cameel, who opened the establishment back in 1618. Appointed a spice purveyor to the Hapsburg court in 1825, Zum Schwarzen Kameel is today a restaurant, with a separate delicatessen that makes good sandwiches and a gourmet shop selling fine cheeses and wines. The Kameel interior is justly famous as well, with a wood-paneled art nouveau dining room that (of course) postdates the era when Beethoven frequented the restaurant. The area around its Bognergasse location is now a stone-paved pedestrian zone with luxury shops, which makes the Kameel’s front terrace a delightful place to stop for a drink or meal.

Perhaps “boiled beef in broth” doesn’t sound quite as alluring as its German name of Tafelspitz. Yet Tafelspitz was the preferred meal of Emperor Franz Joseph, and it remains a favorite Viennese dish. There’s one establishment, Plachutta, that has cornered the market on fine Tafelspitz; the eponymous gastronome Mario Plachutta has raised his preparation of the modest rump cut served with roasted potatoes, minced apples, and horseradish to a gourmet level. The main restaurant sits on the popular Wollzeile shopping street just a block from the Ringstrasse, but the chef has also built a mini empire of jade-toned Plachutta restaurants—including one in a lovely Biedermeier cottage and another near the Schönbrunn Palace in Hietzing.

You will likely see Bronzino’s famous portrait of Eleonora (or Eleanor) de Toledo, in the Uffizi, during your visit to Florence. The Spanish noblewoman who became the duchess of Florence in 1539 when she married Cosimo I de’ Medici was unusual for her time, playing an active role in politics and as a patron of the arts. Her patronage extended to garden design, in its infancy (at least in Europe) in the 16th century. Eleonora commissioned the Boboli Gardens behind the Pitti Palace as a green escape from the city; they continue to provide a retreat for travelers today.

Among the earliest examples of the formal compositions that would dominate garden design through the 20th century, the grounds are dotted with classical statues and fountains while straight axes run up and down the hillside with an apparent disregard for topography. A moment in design history can be experienced first hand here. There’s a feeling that the man who planned the gardens (Niccolò Tribolo) conceived a formal plan and then simply laid it atop the site. Principles of garden design were later to shape city planning. The allées of the Boboli Gardens were early models for grand boulevards leading the eye to distant monuments. One of the pleasures of gardens, however, is that you don’t need to know their histories to enjoy the flowers in bloom or the sounds of birdsong and splashing fountains.

No visit to Antigua is complete without taking in the sunset atop Shirley Heights Lookout at its weekly Sunday sundowner party. The view from Shirley Heights is without a doubt the most famous, most photographed, most celebrated vista gracing Antigua. Immediately below, English and Falmouth Harbours clutch their bays. On clear days you can see Guadeloupe to the south and Montserrat with it’s still active volcano to the south west. It does get busy, so expect a crowd and while there might be a couple locals sprinkled in here and there, it’s mostly visitors. Around 7ish, the tunes crank up with either some reggae classics, some pumping soca, or even live a steelpan band. Smoke from a collection of barbecues compete with the music to fill the air and stimulate your senses. Expect chicken and ribs slathered in local flavors, plus burgers for the less adventurous. I did have some trouble getting grilled fish on my last visit, but once I found some, it was charred to perfection.