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This super-exclusive private club opened recently in the chic Palermo Soho district. Members or friends of members can go to the garden bar for poolside drinks. It’s all the buzz in Buenos Aires. 54/(11) 4832-5276.

On weekends, the line to get into Las Violetas stretches halfway around the block. (A little much, you say, in a city that’s filled with lovely cafes?) No, in fact, the locals know what they’re doing. This gem of a corner cafe may be the most beautiful in the entire city, and coming here for weekend breakfast or afternoon tea is a proud tradition. Once you do have a seat—it’s much easier to pull off on a weekday—admire the stained-glass windows and old brass fixtures, and the prim and proper porteño couples of a certain age, out for their daily merienda. You’re off the tourist track here, in a barrio with few other attractions for travelers, so catching a glimpse of the neighborhood’s residents is part of the fun. On the way out, stop in the chocolate shop, located in one corner of the huge cafe, for a little souvenir to take home. But who are we kidding, those chocolates aren’t going to make it much further than your hotel room.

On every Thursday for the past 40 years, women have walked a picket line around Buenos Aires’s most politically significant plaza. They call themselves Las Madres de la Plaza de Mayo, and each mother present has lost a son or a daughter, presumably “disappeared” at the hands of the nation’s 1970s-era military dictatorships. Some days only a half-dozen mothers lead the march; though increasingly elderly, they are still determined to carry on the fight against all forms of oppression. You’d expect it to be a depressing affair, but in fact it’s quite moving to see the crowd of 50 or more supporters march beside the original mothers as they chant, demanding accountability for one of Latin America’s most shameful and violent historical episodes.

Staying at the elegant old Estancia Candelaria del Monte is like stepping back in time. The ranch dates from the 1830s, and it feels like it - it’s incredibly quiet here, seemingly disconnected from the modern world. Towering sycamore trees cast shade over the sprawling grounds and a picturesque swimming pool that looks like it belongs in an English period piece; inside the house, four-poster beds and afternoon tea call to mind gentler times. Hop up on one of the estancia’s rugged Criollo horses for a guided ride across the property - you can even help the ranchhands herd cows if you’re really in the mood. A beautiful park, from the 1830´s, jealousy guards the intimacy of the house and the swimming pool, with centenary Sycamores, Ginkgo Bilobas, Elms and a large variety of Pines that fragrance the air. And in the distance, rustic and timeless, it opens up the endless plain landscape of “The Pampas” where the green tone of the land and the deep blue of the sky combine with scattered sights of cows and native horses, together with the isolated flocks flying high up.

We were lost. My driver had picked me up from Hotel Alvear in Buenos Aires two hours ago, maybe more. It was hot in the car; the A/C had only two settings “off or ice blast.” I opted for a rolled-down window. We were on a jutted, dusty road that went on for several miles with no signage. He pulled the car over and made a call to Buenos Aires for clarification. After a rudimentary exchange with me in Spanish we continued slowly. Teens in a car behind us, not happy with our progress, tooted and gave us the universal sign of displeasure as they passed. My driver found the estancia La Bamba de Areco gates and after announcing ourselves at the intercom, were told to wait. In a few minutes, what a sight coming at us through the allée of plane trees; a gaucho galloping full speed on a beautiful mount. Still astride, she dispatched the gate and motioned for us to follow by car as she loped ahead. It was to be an amazing day. I was told that the owners, a French couple (a Parisian designer and an owner of an English Polo Team) purchased the crumbling estate five years ago carefully restoring and re-imagining the estancia. A series of superbly decorated rooms and suites offers entre to this privileged Argentine lifestyle to visitors. Love for polo or riding is optimal, not required. But a love for peaceful luxury, inspiring location, attentive staff, appreciation of the opportunity to be a part of a disappearing culture, and love of fabulous wines and food is a must here.

The historic El Porteño building, a onetime grain warehouse made of imported Manchester bricks, was slated for demolition in 1998 before a local cultural preservation group stepped in. Soon after, Argentine fashion designer Alan Faena picked it up and hired designer Philippe Starck to turn the old mill into his outlandish dream of a hotel, the Faena Hotel. It opened in 2004 on the now-gentrifying Puerto Madero waterfront, becoming an anchor for future developments—apartment buildings, international hotel brands, and ritzy restaurants. The Faena dares to be different in every aspect. Guests are introduced to the hotel creators’ own ideas of luxury, where black marble meets claw-foot tubs and red velvet meets white leather. The property has become something of a social center and playground for the wealthy, attracting locals to the funky cabaret with nightly tango performances, now almost legendary, or to the antique book–lined lounge and 1920s throwback decor. Multiple restaurants and a pool bar, fronting one of the largest pools in the city, help maintain a steady stream of activity.

It’s not rocket science to make dinner reservations at one of Buenos Aires’ hot-right-now restaurants - but what about finding your way to the city’s hole-in-the-wall empanada shops, the roadside parrilla (grill) stands, the mom-and-pop delis with only three tables and a takeaway counter? If you’re a serious foodie who’s looking to explore the city’s food scene a la Anthony Bourdain, you don’t have time to waste - you need to contact Allie Lazar, a.k.a. Pick Up the Fork, an American expat who’s quickly become one of the city’s most respected food writers. Depending on the interests of her clients, who range from restaurateurs and industry types to journalists and traveling foodies, Lazar organizes private, tailor-made food tours. She’ll get you to that roadside stand, to the regional festival, to the marketplace - and help you get your hands on whatever you’re hungry for. Check out the Pick Up the Fork blog for an overview of her favorites: it doubles as an excellent dining and drinking resource for anyone visiting Buenos Aires.

The unmarked door at an unremarkable address might have you thinking you’re in the wrong place—but you’re at Aramburu, one of the city’s most talked-about dining venues, and the location is a reminder of the chef’s humble start in the business. Chef Gonzalo Aramburu honed his craft in noteworthy European restaurants, but when it came time to open his own place in his native Buenos Aires, he didn’t have the cash for a stylish Palermo storefront.


Aramburu is still offering his innovative tasting menu with wine pairings—incorporating Argentinian produce into his particular form of molecular gastronomy—out of the open kitchen here. And to great acclaim: he scored a spot on the list of Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants 2013.

We’ve all been there. You get back from a trip and you’re desperate to describe to your friends that life-changing sunrise, to explain how impossibly charming that little cafe was - to casually upload a striking photo album to Flickr or Facebook that will leave your co-workers in awe. But you realize with disappointment, as your photos upload to your computer screen, that your captured images just don’t do justice to the place. Foto Ruta aims to banish the boring vacation album - in fact, this street photography organization isn’t about producing an album at all, but promotes the concept of taking pictures as a way of ‘creative seeing.’ If you’re a pro with a digital SLR and a backpack full of lenses, let the guides lead you to some of the city’s lesser-known intersections with the half-day street photography excursion. If you’re just an inexperienced iPhone-toting traveler, no problem - Foto Ruta offers the innovative ‘iPhoneography’ excursion that helps you harness your phone’s built-in technology and improve your technique while discovering some of Buenos Aires’ edgy street scene. Adventurous types like the Saturday tour, a scavenger-hunt style photo workshop and self-guided tour that ends with a the group coming back together, looking at each others’ photos over a glass of wine. Like the best travel experiences, it’s a moment you can’t quite describe later - regardless of how beautiful your photos turn out.

Buenos Aires lies on the edge of flat pampa, so even a gentle incline is rare—you’ll have to take some stairs to get a view. The 16-story Galería Güemes, built in 1915, was the city’s first skyscraper, and its top-floor mirador offers great downtown vistas. This restored gallería shines as a spectacular example of art nouveau architecture, complete with glass-domed ceilings, ornate metalwork, and gilt sculptural details. Not surprisingly, legend surrounds the building, including that the writer of The Little Prince, Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, once lived in an upstairs apartment with a pet seal cub.

The province of Buenos Aires is dotted with lovely old estancias (ranches) that are open to visitors - but some are irritatingly touristy. For a more down-to-earth dia del campo (day in the country), try Estancia Los Dos Hermanos. A typical day trip to the estancia starts with a leisurely breakfast of coffee and pastries at a picnic table near the stables. When the horses are ready to go, you’re off on your morning ride with the guide, exploring grassy green fields and dusty country roads. A full asado (barbecue) is waiting for you back at the ranch - there’s so much steak and wine served at midday that you might need to recline in one of the hammocks afterward - followed by a longer afternoon ride. Though it’s not impossible to arrive here on your own, the unmarked rural roads can be confusing - let the ranch arranges your transportation to and from Buenos Aires.

The toy vendors, working around the zócalo (main square) in Puebla, Mexico have taken the task of selling balloons to new heights. Somewhere, under this enormous mass of rubber and plastic encased helium is a small little pushcart and I mean, small pushcart. Whenever there was breeze, everything would sway but surprisingly, the cart never tipped over. For a split second, I thought of asking the guy if I could have the balloon at the very, very top just because I was curious to see how he would get it down.

Inaugurated in 1912 by its namesake, the Spanish regent Maria Cristina, this belle epoque landmark has welcomed international elite to its gilded halls from day one. Designed by the same architect behind the Ritz in Paris, the hotel has long been a favorite of celebrities during the San Sebastián Film Festival (Bette Davis was, notably, a fan). A $25 million renovation in 2012 only cemented its status as the city’s most luxurious hotel. With three of the city’s most elegant eateries (including a favorite see-and-be-seen bar), panoramic views of iconic belle epoque buildings and the Urumea River from the many terraces, and signature Luxury Collection concierge service, the Maria Cristina still feels fit for the aristocracy who frequented it in the city’s beach-destination heyday. Spacious and decadent rooms with an updated belle epoque style, as well as a central location within walking distance of many of San Sebastián’s Michelin-starred restaurants, only sweeten the deal.

To get from point A to B on the river delta, you’ll need to board a water taxi. These polished wood boats cruise the canals day and night, dropping passengers off and picking them up at rental houses, cabin complexes and restaurants along the way. The ride, of course, is part of the fun. Board one at the harbor - and make sure you know where it’s going before you sit down, or it might be awhile before you find yourself back in civilization.

Guests at this 13-room retreat in Costa Rica’s central highlands can tour the estate’s 36 acres of coffee fields. After the walk, try a “cupping,” or tasting, of the shade-grown organic blends. End with a soak in your suite’s jungle-view tub. From $250. (305) 395-3042


After a couple days resting up at The Retreat Costa Rica, I was off on my next adventure. Finca Rosa Blanca, which doubles as a boutique hotel and coffee plantation, proved the perfect setting for exploration both near and far. I stayed in the La Guaria junior suite—each has it’s own name—this one named after a local flower. Having come from New York where apartments are cramped, I was pleasantly surprised by the spacious layout of the villa. The entrance leads into a circular area, with sky lights above that form a sort of dome. There’s a separate kitchen and dining area, a bathroom complete with a whirlpool, and a separate bedroom featuring a kingsize bed. My favorite part of La Guaria were the two balconies. There’s a small one right off of the bedroom, where I’d usually listen to the rain falling hard against the roof in the afternoon. In the mornings and again in the evenings, I’d make myself a cup of coffee and catch up on my emails outside on the larger terrace. It overlooks a large grass farm, as well as the flowers that grow on the property.


Speaking of coffee, Finca Rosa Blanca, is also a coffee plantation. On my first full day at the hotel, I signed up for their guided coffee tour, where I learned the ins and outs of coffee-making in Costa Rica—things like how Arabic coffee is the only type of coffee grown here and how the blonder the roast, the more caffeine it has; I always assumed the opposite. Our tour group was small but we had a guest appearance by the finca’s two adopted dogs—aptly named Finca and Rosa. It’s a mother and daughter, and I loved watching them run around the plantation and play in the little waterfall separating one bank from the other. The second part of the tour was an actual coffee tasting, where we sampled a “good” cup of coffee and an “over roasted” cup. I was surprised how many flavors and aromas I could pick up despite always claiming that I have a poor sense of smell...and silently resolved to skip the milk and sugar next time.


As for the food and lounge areas, there are some really creative spots. The El Tigre Vestido restaurant has both outdoor and indoor seating; I mostly ate in their open-air sections but definitely took advantage of the fire crackling in the evenings. It can get a little chilly there at night. On my last full day at Finca Rosa Blanca, I went all out. First up was a scenic (and very uncrowded) hike to Barva volcano. I learned that, while a national park, it’s one of Costa Rica’s hidden secrets. There were few tourists along our path, allowing us to feel like we had wandered into an enchanted forest out of a story book. Back at the finca, I indulged at their spa, with their Pura Vida Coffee Detox Package: a Swedish full-body massage, a coffee and chocolate body scrub and a refreshing facial. After a challenging hike that morning, it was just what the doctor ordered. Fun fact: There’s some great art here and I’m not just talking about the murals on the walls (there are some super colorful ones at the pool); One of the owners, Glenn, is an artist by trade and he designed all the metal work seek throughout the property, right here on-site.