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So you didn’t have time on this trip to visit Salta, Jujuy, or other breathtakingly gorgeous destinations in Argentina’s north - put it on your list for next time. At least you can go home with some beautiful handcrafted objects produced in the region’s indigenous communities - and Fundación Silataj, a non-profit fair-trade organization, is the best place to do some responsible shopping. Items at Silataj are divided into four categories: accessories, art, home and textile. Browse through the online catalogue for an overview, or just poke around the store in person. There’s an affiliated shop downtown that’s more convenient for some travelers - Arte de Pueblos (www.artedepueblos.org.ar).

Salar de Uyuni, located in the Daniel Campos province of Bolivia, looks like it belongs on another planet. Stretching for more than 4,050 square miles—a little smaller than the state of Connecticut—it is the world’s largest salt flat, formed when several prehistoric lakes dried up 25,000 to 10,000 years ago, leaving behind hexagonal patterns of salt on the otherwise featureless surface. When nearby lakes overflow, or the area gets rain, a thin layer of water covers the expanse, transforming it into a massive reflective mirror that makes for jaw-dropping, dreamlike photos.


The natural wonder has served as a valuable source of salt and lithium for Bolivia, and it has long been a hot spot for tourism in South America. There’s even a hotel built out of salt bricks: the Palacio de Sal. If you’re planning a trip to witness the surreal beauty of the Salar de Uyuni salt flat, here’s what you need to know.



To see Salar de Uyuni’s breathtaking mirror effort, visit during wet season, from December to April—but be aware that when it gets too rainy, it can be hard to get around and you might not be able to access certain areas. May to November is the dry season, which means temperatures are colder, but the ground is harder and you can drive across the land more easily.



The ideal month to visit is May, when the seasons transition from wet to dry and you’ll have a good chance of seeing the salt flats both dusty and reflective.



Salar de Uyuni sits near the point where Bolivia, Argentina, and Chile meet, so tourists tend to come from three different starting places.



The town of Uyuni in Bolivia is the most popular place to embark on tours of the salt flats. The small town is so close to the flats, you can easily take day trips. If you’re traveling from La Paz to Uyuni, you can take a one-hour flight or an eight-hour overnight bus.



San Pedro de Atacama in Chile is another well-known starting point for tours of the salt flats, but because it’s about 200 miles away, most tours are three days long.



If you’re coming from Argentina, look into multi-day tours operating out of Tupiza, Bolivia, a good base less than 60 miles over the Argentinian border.



Tour operators in the region offer shared or private tours. Shared tours are more affordable, but they don’t offer much flexibility when it comes to your schedule. Also, most shared tours are led by Spanish-speaking guides, while private tours can offer English-speaking ones.



Many tours of the salt flats also go to other attractions in the area, such as the Polques hot springs, the Atacama Desert, and high-altitude lakes like Laguna Colorada. Look into tours originating in San Pedro de Atacama and Tupiza for itineraries that include these destinations.



Salar de Uyuni is located nearly 12,000 feet above sea level, so you might experience altitude sickness symptoms such as nausea and headaches and should plan accordingly.



To enter Bolivia, travelers must have a tourist visa, which costs $160 for U.S. citizens, and a yellow fever vaccination certificate if they are traveling from a country with risk of yellow fever.

The small town of El Chaltén in southern Patagonia has been called the trekking capital of the world due to its proximity to Mt. Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre, two of South America’s most rugged peaks. It’s also the jumping-off point to reach Aguas Arriba Lodge, a new six-room mountain cabin in a nature reserve next to Glaciers National Park. From El Chaltén, you follow a gravel road along Las Vueltas river to the emerald green Lago del Desierto, then take a short boat ride across the lake. If you’re more hard-core, put your luggage on the boat and hike three hours through the forest to reach the lodge. This appeared in the June/July 2013 issue.

The store specializes in antiques and vintage clothing from the 1920s to the 1980s. Everything has an air of elegance, from the beaded gowns to the crystal decanters.

An observer from the sidewalk might puzzle as groups of people march into this pretty flower store—and don’t emerge shortly with bouquets. The customers are not here for the blossoms but for what lies below. A door at the rear of the shop leads downstairs to a long speakeasy bar and an adjacent line of hard-to-snag tables. Sea monsters and fish scales emerge from the walls, and as the name Atlántico suggests, the seafood and old-school-aperitif recipes that European immigrants brought to Argentina when they crossed the eponymous pond are the inspiration behind cuisine and cocktails alike. The Spanish-style pulpo (octopus) or the jumbo prawns draw raves; reserve for dinner to avoid a likely wait. Or wedge into the bar to enjoy the innovative, much-ballyhooed mixology.

The Alvear Palace is a Buenos Aires landmark. Dreamed up by businessman and socialite Dr. Rafael de Miero, who wanted to bring back 1920s Paris grandeur to his hometown, the hotel was erected in 1932 on the corner of Avenida Alvear and Ayacucho after a decade of on-and-off construction. Then after much fanfare, it expanded in 1940, taking over an old mansion next door. For several decades, Alvear Palace was owned by the Duke of Hornes, a cousin of King Juan Carlos I, though Argentina’s economic situation saw the hotel’s reputation steadily decline. Since Anglo-Argentine developer David Sutton Dabbah (also co-owner of Patagonia’s Llao Llao Hotel & Resort) purchased the property in 1984, the Palace has been renovated and renovated again, top-to-bottom in 2011, which lowered the room count and revived the lavish Louis XV furnishings, and most recently in 2016, with the debut of sleek rooftop suites, an indoor pool, solarium, and a rooftop bar. Bathroom amenities are custom-made by Hermès. The lobby bar exudes Belle Epoque elegance, and many of the rooms, while still as picture-perfect as ever, could be mistaken for another century. There are touches of modern luxury in the spa, but over-the-top opulence is still the dominant theme running through the signature French restaurant and afternoon tea, as high society lingers.

A two-hour drive south of Buenos Aires is the huge and pristine laguna of Chascomús. Fed by several streams, it’s a popular destination for fishermen, boaters and windsurfers. Rent a bicycle in the town to pedal around the lake, or hire a rowboat for an hour or two - you might catch a fish without even trying.

Inside Los Glaciares National Park is the small town of El Chaltén, created by the Argentine government for campers and trekkers looking to explore the many trails in the park. The town is only composed of a few streets, but is full of wonderful restaurants and hotels. After a long day of hiking, make a stop at El Chaltén’s exclusive microbrewery, La Cervecería. Here you can find homemade pilsners and bocks, while enjoying a modern take on authentic Argentine cuisine. Photo by: Andre Felipe Ribeiro

The Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt is a true palace. Built by an English Argentine railway executive, this Tudor Revival mansion dates to the late 1800s. The Duhau family, which bought the property in the 1920s, added an additional neoclassical building modeled after Le Château du Marais outside Paris. The property sat empty for a few decades at the end of the 20th century until a local developer partnered with Hyatt to turn it into a hotel. After a $74 million renovation, they helped preserve much of the original artwork and red marble flooring, invigorating the once faded Belle Epoque elegance. A larger, sleek tower with modern guest facilities was also added.

The property today is a testament to the grandeur of the most European city in the Americas. There are crystal chandeliers, intricate ironwork, and travertine marble bathrooms. There’s a bar where one can indulge in cigars and brandy, after, of course, dining at one of several high-profile restaurants with wine cellars designed to impress even the most hard-core oenophile.

Ranked as one of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants on the 2018 eponymous list, Chef Narda Lepes’s Narda Comedor serves healthy, seasonal meals and adds excitement through an ongoing new-flavor rotation. Vegetables play a key role but this isn’t rabbit food; the kitchen turns out succulent meats from top providers committed to wholesomeness and sustainability. Sharing dishes with your dining companions is a winning strategy.

With a smart and simple chalkboard menu of cheese plates, salads, sandwiches made with homemade bread, good coffee, and Argentinian wines by the glass, Pain et Vin is a lovely venue for lunch or an afternoon glass of Malbec rosado. The Palermo Soho eatery doubles as a tasting space and shop: look for Friday evening events open to the public, or stop by to choose from the excellent selection of boutique wines to take on a picnic to the park.

I’m on the fringe of a perfectly manicured polo field, flanked by the jagged steeples of the Calchaquí Valley mountains. Gaúchos speed lithe steeds up and down the green, while postcard-perfect vines, row upon row, pull my eyes toward the not-too-distant sand dunes. I’m gobsmacked by my surroundings, and furrow an eyebrow as a thought occurs to me: I’ve been exploring Grace Cafayate and the La Estancia de Cafayate property for a little more than 24 hours, and haven’t once thought about leaving the property. I can say with confidence that this is the first time this has happened to me. This idyllic parcel of land has exactly what I want in an escape: epic natural grandeur; peace and quiet; luxurious accommodations; five-star dining; a polo field and the largest golf course in South America; and wine. Bottomless barrels of wine.

To get a real feel for the Tango culture in Buenos Aires then you must go to a Milonga (Tango club). As I walked into Sueno Porteno Milonga I felt as if I had walked back into a cheesy disco in the 70’s. But instead of the BeeGees, the speakers blared tango music. You can grab a table near the dance floor and simply watch the locals practice their best moves or if you are versed in the tango then you may want to participate. It won’t take long until you get asked to dance if you make eye contact with someone. There was diversity of fashion from casual to formal tango dresses, and a diversity in age ranging from 30 to 80 years old! This is the real deal—tango not for tourists. Don’t show up before 11 p.m. or you will be disappointed: Everyone normally comes around midnight. There is a small cover charge to pay at the door. Photos are generally allowed as long as you aren’t a nuisance.

Cesare al Casaletto is far off the well-beaten tourist track, but it is easy to get to: just take the 8 tram from Piazza Venezia or Largo Argentina and get off at the very last stop. Fifty yards from the tram tracks sits Rome‘s best trattoria, where spectacular fried appetizers (get them all, or at least the gnocchi fritti and polpette di bollito) give way to classic pasta dishes like carbonara and gricia. The second courses are excellent and fall-off-the-tailbone braised oxtail is a favorite. Pair it all with fairly priced natural wines from all over Italy and be sure to leave room for dessert, preferably the panna cotta.

A full day of driving and exploration in a 4x4 from San Pedro de Atacama in the Altiplano near the border with Bolivia and Argentina are the highland lagoons of Miscanti and Miñiques, at an altitude of 13,860 feet. The scenery here is awe-inspiring with a palate of extraordinary colors that seem to be painted like a dreamscape encasing the Andes and volcanoes. Also worth exploration is is the remote Salar de Tara, close to Paso Jama and the Argentine border, with its marvelous rock “statues” (shown in the picture). Of the most famous is the “nuns” of Tara. Pack a picnic and take time to relish the scenery there with views of the Licancabur volcano, bird life, and salt lakes. You cannot help but feel inspired.