Overlooking Dam Square, this sumptuous white-and-gilt dining room—the oldest in Amsterdam (it dates back to 1885)—is the setting for chef Jacob Jan Boerma’s strikingly innovative cooking. Creative flavor combinations artfully balancing acidity and spice are evident in dishes like tartare of dorade, dressed with lime and olive oil and dotted with fresh wasabi and cucumber granita. The list of mostly biodynamic wines, assembled by talented young sommelier Isabel van Bueren, features some surprisingly interesting and lesser-known labels. Dinner tasting menus are four, six, or eight courses, priced from €65 to €105 ($76 to $124); lunch has two- and three-course tasting menus priced at €32.50 ($38) and €37.50 ($44) respectively. An à la carte menu is also available.