The Scottish capital is many things to many people. For some it’s a place filled with intriguing tales of the past, where drama once took place within fortresses, royal residences, and dark alleyways of a city full of thieves and infamous figures. For others it’s a place of creativity, soul, and scintillating performance, where festivals of all kinds, from science to jazz to arts and culture enthrall crowds each summer. And for those who visit at the turn of the year, it’s a place for partying, where the Hogmanay celebrations light up the streets with a torchlit procession and there’s a New Year’s Day swim in the bracing North Sea. For locals, though, Edinburgh is a truly invigorating place every day. If you only have a long weekend, here’s how they recommend you spend it.
Day one: delve deep into Edinburgh history on a walking tour
Dressed in a handmade tartan skirt and bodice, with ruffled sleeves and collar, Charlotte Skye leads her hour-long tours of Edinburgh’s Old Town, with the gusto of a Scottish pub wench. Scottish she is not, however. Hailing from South Africa originally, she fell in love with the city in 2017 and has been seeking out and showing off its best bits to visitors ever since. You could spend your entire four days delving deep into the city’s oldest neighborhood, with its narrow alleys, cobbled streets, and spooky cemeteries. However, in just 60 minutes Charlotte can regale you with enough history—and a few unusual tales—to put the Scottish capital into context ahead of a four-day exploration, while painting a picture of what life was once like in this medieval city.
While in the Old Town, where the streets are still laid out as they were in the 12th century, it’s impossible to miss the city’s iconic castle. At the head of the Royal Mile, which connects the former fortress to the King’s Palace of Holyroodhouse at its eastern end, Edinburgh Castle has been perched atop its precipitous rock since the 1100s. Reserve a good hour or two for exploring and enjoying views over the city. For views of the castle itself, don’t miss a wander through Princes Street Gardens below.
Old-timey pubs abound in the Old Town, and so your first day should finish with a pint of Scottish ale or a wee dram of whisky at the 17th-century Ensign Ewart, or an atmospheric meal at the hugely popular 16th-century Witchery by the Castle. Alternatively, for a lesser-known foray into Edinburgh hospitality, head to Maggie Dickson’s—a pub dedicated to the “half hangit Maggie,” a woman who survived a public hanging in the 1700s. This, and the nearby Last Drop and White Hart, are favorite haunts for Skye after her tours.
The Surgeons’ Hall Museums are open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Courtesy of Surgeons’ Hall Museums
Day two: visit Edinburgh’s best museums and climb an extinct volcano
Few trips to Edinbrugh can be complete without a hike up its most famous hill, so start your day in the city on Arthur’s Seat. This extinct volcano sits just over a mile east of the Castle within Holyrood Park, rising more than 800 feet above the city. Hundreds of people take this hike every day, but make for the trails an hour or so before sunrise, flashlight in hand, and you’ll reach the summit after an easy 45-minute walk for a crowd-free view of the city waking up.
Next, it’s time to fuel up for the rest of your day. Head for the southwestern side of Arthur’s Seat and into the Summerhall Arts center, where MF Coffeeshop serves up flat whites and cortados made with responsibly sourced coffee from Malawi that’s roasted in Edinburgh. Order a breakfast of traditional tattie scones (potato patties) and bacon here, and don’t miss a visit to the latest exhibitions at Summerhall, which range from sculpture to photography to interactive and immersive artworks by Scottish creatives.
Summerhall Arts is just one of the many museums in Edinburgh. A 10-minute walk north from here on Clerk Street takes you to the Surgeons’ Hall Museums packed with medical memorabilia, and 5 minutes more will take you to the utterly engrossing and free-to-visit National Museum of Scotland. It has a wide-ranging collection of objects from historical hoards and ancient fossils to modern scientific and technological creations, including aircraft and the remains of the first cloned mammal, Dolly the sheep.
Walk further north and through the Old Town (don’t miss the Museum of Magic, Fortune-Telling & Witchcraft here if you’re into all-things supernatural) toward East Princes Street Gardens to finish your museums tour in the Royal Scottish Academy, where an annual exhibition features prominent Scottish artists. From here, a stroll into the New Town can lead to countless cocktails at Never Really Here, ale at Dirty Dick’s Pub or hearty dinners championing Scottish black pudding or ox cheek at Badger & Co. Try Under the Table on Dundas Street for delicate and flavorful European dishes, from seared wood pigeon to smoked mackerel mousse.
You can’t leave Edinburgh without trying a traditional Sunday roast featuring beef, potatoes, Yorkshire pudding, and all the trimmings. Ardfern does a prime plateful.
Courtesy of Ardfern
Day three: explore Edinburgh’s coastal neighborhoods
Strike out from the urban sprawl of Edinburgh’s center and go north or east and at some point you’ll hit the coast. On the city’s northern fringes, a 15-minute tram ride from the New Town, you’ll find the historic port neighborhood of Leith, which draws locals for its brilliant coffee shops and creative independent stores, says local content creator Pippa Perriam. “Start the day at Custom Lane, which is a really cool creative space, and there’s Williams & Johnson which is a great coffee place, and Bard, which is an amazing interiors store with Scottish design products.” Pair this with pastries from Hobz bakery and you’re onto a winning morning.
The area is also home to the Royal Yacht Britannia, the late Queen Elizabeth II’s favorite mode of transport. Tour the ship for a look at how the other half lives (and travels), then head away from the water to seek the neighborhood’s best eateries. Ardfern is a favorite of Perriam’s, who says its Sunday roasts and small plates are worth traveling for. For seafood, try Barry Fish, a new hot spot for 2025 where award-winning chef Barry Bryson is making waves with unusual takes on kedgeree and ceviche with orange, pickled fennel, and cardamom.
While you’re in the area, you may well meet tour guide Charlotte Skye once again at the supremely spiritual Portal Leith, where she performs tarot readings for visitors seeking guidance or clarity on important decisions. A 10-minute cab ride from here and along the coast takes you to Portobello, a locals’ favorite for weekend dog walks on the beach. Here you’ll find myriad cafés and restaurants on the seafront offering classic British fish and chips or brunch on the promenade, and you can join the brave locals who come for invigorating cold-water sea swims.
Aetla sells fine jewelry for those in the market for chandelier earrings or perhaps an engagement ring.
Courtesy of Aetla
Day four: dine in small-scale Stockbridge
For foodies, Stockbridge is the most exciting proposition in Edinburgh right now, so spend your final day eating your way around this part of the city just north of the New Town. With well-heeled residents taking up its handsome Georgian houses, the past few years have seen a slew of openings offering thoughtful cuisine with daily changing menus to satisfy the locals’ tastes.
“St Stephen’s Street is one of my favorite streets in Edinburgh,” says Perriam. “There are so many independents along there.” Head to Stockbridge Eating House for unfussy food like bone marrow on toast or whole turbot with wild leeks in a casual communal dining setting or Moss, where every meal is a three-course affair with only a handful of options from its organic farm in Angus, such as venison with Douglas fir or foraged nettles. There’s independent shopping here, too. Eschew the touristy shops of the Royal Mile and nip into Jorum Studio for handmade fragrances, ætla for fine jewelry, or Treen for sustainable fashion made from recycled or organic materials.
Walk off your overindulgences at Stockbridge’s cafés and restaurants in the Royal Botanic Garden—a gorgeous green lung in the middle of the city.
Where to stay
The most exciting addition to Edinburgh’s hotel scene in 2024 was 100 Princes Street, an upscale property in the New Town neighborhood where, much like a members’ club, drinking and dining is for residents only and its interiors are clad in rich tartan and velvet. A more intimate stay is available at 23 Mayfield, a homely bed-and-breakfast south of the city center and close to Arthur’s Seat; guests can sip whisky on the Chesterfield sofas next to the fire by night.
