When it comes to planning a trip to the Galápagos—an archipelago of 20 islands, many of them uninhabited, each with its own unique landscapes and wildlife—most travelers opt to visit on a cruise.
But there’s another option for those wishing to explore a bit more of the islands’ inhabited side, whether those inhabitants are the famed Galápagos giant tortoises—the largest tortoise species in the world—or the people.
At Pikaia Lodge, on Santa Cruz Island, you get the best of both worlds on land and at sea. Pikaia is an ultra-luxe eco-lodge that brings guests to other islands and some of the archipelago’s most iconic destinations aboard a luxury yacht with your own cabin, locally inspired gourmet dining, and, of course, experienced naturalists.
Think of it as a private cruise that also offers you the ability to hike, bike, and wander through a giant tortoise reserve during your downtime.
Pikaia Lodge offers guests the opportunity to do day trips to nearby islands in its own private yacht, complete with individual cabins for passengers, who can use them to rest and refresh between stops.
Courtesy of Pikaia Lodge
Pikaia is one of the few luxury lodges in the archipelago—and the only one with a yacht that offers the same privacy and luxury as the cruises that spend multiple days sailing these remote islands.
While there are some clear benefits to this hybrid option over a traditional cruise, including time to explore and relax at a land-based resort between sailings, the one drawback is that the yacht isn’t permitted for overnight trips in this tightly restricted UNESCO World Heritage Site. That means it can offer only day trips to the islands closest to its port on Santa Cruz.
For that reason, we recommend combining a land-based experience such as the one at Pikaia Lodge with a Galápagos cruise (sailings typically range from a few days to a few weeks aboard a variety of yachts and small ships). With the combo, travelers will get a truly immersive and comprehensive Galápagos experience that offers a full sampling of the wildlife and landscapes in this unique, diverse archipelago—and in Ecuador as a whole.
Pikaia Lodge
In the highlands of Santa Cruz Island, this 14-room eco-lodge hotel sits atop the plateau of an extinct volcano with sweeping views of the coast and the Galápagos savannah. It’s arguably the most luxurious accommodation on the islands.
The rooms, with floor-to-ceiling windows on two sides, almost seem like a tree house at that elevation, albeit one with massive bathrooms that have walk-in closets, marble showers, and soaking tubs that offer both privacy and views.
The property has two miles of trails that will take you up and down the hills, where you are sure to encounter wild giant tortoises. Or, hop on a bike for a 6.2-mile ride, followed by a 10-minute walk, to Garrapatero Beach, one of the island’s two white sandy beaches. The ride is all downhill, but don’t worry—the lodge is happy to come pick you up for the uphill return.
What really sets Pikaia apart is the luxurious private yacht, which is a game changer for day tours. Going out for 12 hours? No problem. All you need to do is roll out of bed and grab a cup of coffee for the van ride to the port. Then you can either rest or go back to bed while sailing to the next island, sit down for a full-service gourmet breakfast, relax in one of the spacious indoor or outdoor public areas, or a combination of all three.
Pikaia Lodge is situated atop an extinct volcano with sweeping views of Santa Cruz Island.
Courtesy of Pikaia Lodge
During a recent five-day stay, my husband and I spent two days on land and two on the boat.
One day, we sailed two hours each way to Santiago, where we hiked on lava paths to see the unique cacti growing in the rock. Then we took a quick Zodiac ride to Bartolome, where, before we had even landed, we saw Galápagos penguins, blue-footed boobies, and sea lions. Then we walked to the top of the island to take in what is probably the most photographed view of the archipelago’s rugged landscape and the stunning turquoise waters.
After an incredible lunch of homemade pumpkin coconut soup, ceviche, and fresh fish, we donned wet suits and snorkeled with sharks, sea lions, penguins, and sting rays. Another day, we went bird-watching on Seymour Island, then spotted flamingos in Black Turtle Cove.
During our land days on Santa Cruz, we visited Tortuga Bay, a beautiful, expansive stretch of pure white sand and turquoise water where we strolled alongside the islands’ famed black marine iguanas and went kayaking.
Before paddling out into the bay, our guide warned us that at first we might wonder why it isn’t called shark bay, because the hordes of small sharks swimming in the mangroves would seem be the predominant species. But once we got farther out, it became apparent why it was indeed named after turtles. I have never come close to seeing as many turtles in the wild as we did that day.
Like everything else about the protected waters of the Galápagos, the sheer number of animals and different species is truly phenomenal here.
Besides the luxury yacht, amazing lodge accommodations, and gorgeous setting, Pikaia is also known for its culinary excellence, with a variety of traditional and locally inspired gourmet cuisine, including homemade soups, quinoa dishes, tuna and other fresh fish, yucca fries, and plantains.
All-inclusive rates at Pikaia Lodge start at $5,595 per person (or from $3,600 for children under 12) for a three-night stay.
In the Galápagos, wildlife viewing—like spotting the notorious blue-footed boobies—is central to the visitor experience.
Photo by Bjarn Bronsveld/Unsplash
Other Galápagos accommodations you can add to a cruise
There are a variety of hostels and small hotels, mostly on San Cristobal and Santa Cruz islands in the Galàpagos, but only a few are considered upscale or luxury.
Like Pikaia, Finch Bay is another true luxury property. But while Pikaia is situated 1,500 feet above sea level, with nice breezes and cooler temperatures, Finch Bay is the only beachfront hotel on Santa Cruz. And it’s a five-minute water-taxi ride to the main town, Puerto Ayora.
Finch Bay also has a private yacht for day trips to other islands, although it’s a more traditional day cruise yacht, meaning you won’t have a private cabin for napping and showering.
In between the beach and Pikaia, in the highlands of Santa Cruz, is a Curio Collection Hotel by Hilton, Royal Palm, Galapagos, which—unlike Pikaia and Finch Bay—doesn’t have its own boat.
Pikaia promotes its land-based options as a sustainable alternative to traditional cruising that aims to distribute the economic benefits of tourism more broadly across the local populations. For instance, where some locals used to illegally catch sharks for their fins, they can now switch their fishing permit to a permit that enables them to take land tourists out on day tours for snorkeling and diving.
Getting there
There are only two ways to fly to the Galápagos: via Ecuador’s capital, Quito, or via the port city of Guayaquil. We recommend flying through Quito and spending a night or two at Casa Gangotena. This luxurious 31-room boutique hotel was developed in an old mansion overlooking the plaza in the heart of historic Quito, blocks from the city’s local eateries, ornate cathedrals, museums, markets, and traditional and herbal shops staffed by curanderas, or traditional healers.
Like Pikaia Lodge, Casa Gangotena is part of the Relais & Châteaux collection of hotels around the world, which are known for their culinary excellence.
