There’s a New Way to Sail in the Galápagos—With No Crowds and Plenty of Comfort

The Galápagos Islands of Ecuador need no introduction: The famous laboratory for Charles Darwin and his research on evolution are a naturalist’s paradise, brimming with endemic species. As a wildlife enthusiast, I’ve long had the Galápagos on my wish list, drawn by the promise of up-close encounters with sea lions, penguins, blue-footed boobies, giant tortoises, and more. When the 16-passenger Aqua Mare yacht launched in 2022, the islands quickly rose to the top of my list. That’s because small-ship luxury line Aqua Expeditions is renowned for delivering immersive experiences in the Peruvian Amazon, Indonesia, and the Mekong River with superlative services and amenities. (The company’s next venture in the Seychelles and Tanzania is set to launch in late 2025.)

It’s hard to imagine a more stylish yacht plying the waters of the Galápagos than the 164-foot Aqua Mare, which exuded elegance from the moment I first saw her sleek gray-and-white-exterior on my sailing in October 2025. (The sea lions who slept on the swim deck one night seemed to agree.) But beyond aesthetics, it was the exceptional service from the all-Ecuadorian crew that truly set the experience apart. I felt more comfortable in this remote corner of the world than I ever anticipated, while living out a longtime dream of visiting this extraordinary archipelago.

The ship

I boarded the Aqua Mare for a seven-night stay, and it quickly became clear that this Italian-built vessel sets a high standard for luxury super-yachts in the Galápagos. Designed by celebrated custom yacht interiors specialists Zuretti, the vessel spans four decks with varnished dark wood, brass, and blue-and-white upholstered seating. Outdoor spaces include a top-deck dining and sunbathing area and a heated whirlpool, while in the afternoons, the lower deck turns into a beach club where you can listen to music and take a dip in the ocean. In the mornings, the same area doubles as a workout zone with mats and weights.

Inside, the handsome main lounge has white suede ceilings and a large U-shaped leather sofa surrounding a white marble coffee table filled with books about nature, cuisine, and design. While I listened to lectures or briefings, my feet sank into the soft white carpets (no shoes allowed aboard for both passengers and staff to keep those carpets clean). The seven suites, ranging from 172 square feet to an 860-square-foot owner’s suite, all include complimentary clothes washing for a 24-hour turnaround time, but we often got our clean clothes within the same day.

My partner and I stayed in Category IV Suite 104, and even this entry-level room felt spacious. The white carpets and polished burl wood echoed the maritime-chic design of the main lounge. There was ample space in the closets for our belongings, plus a desk with a chair and shelves to stow laptops, cameras, and cords. A flat-screen TV had streaming capabilities, though we never turned it on. In the wood- and marble-accented bathroom, I appreciated that the shower had fantastic water pressure, and the conditioner on hand kept my hair manageable between near-daily swims in the Pacific Ocean.

Courtesy of Aqua Mare

The itinerary

At the start of the journey, we flew into the port city of Guayaquil, Ecuador’s largest metropolis, and the next morning made our way to the airport to meet with William, an Aqua Expeditions representative. He explained that Aqua had already arranged our Galápagos National Park transit cards to streamline the process, allowing us to bypass most of the usual queues. I admired that Aqua thought of everything: William even walked us through the luggage scanning process at Guayaquil, which requires passengers to lock their bags with zip ties to prevent prohibited items like plants or seeds from making their way into luggage.

After a smooth, 1.5-hour flight, we landed at the clean and organized airport on Baltra Island. Our guide, Grace, greeted us and escorted us to a VIP lounge, where we waited briefly before hopping into a van for a seven-minute ride to the Aqua Mare. On the way, we spotted an iguana, two blue-footed boobies, a Galápagos sea lion, and crimson-hued Sally Lightfoot crabs—animals I had waited my whole life to observe in the wild.

Once aboard, Wendy, the charming cruise director, introduced Captain Johnny and the rest of the crew. She gave us a thorough tour of the yacht and provided information about our meals, excursions, and onboard services. She would orchestrate our entire trip, coordinating everything from cooking demos with the chef to a post-snorkeling cocktail hour with a well-organized team.

The Galápagos Islands—home to close to 9,000 species, 97 percent of which are protected—are a living evolution laboratory. With 13 major islands, each one offers a unique natural story, making a knowledgeable guide essential to fully experience the region.

Grace, our guide, represents the national park and works exclusively for Aqua Mare. Dressed in practical khaki and a neat ponytail, her professionalism was matched by her deep knowledge of the ecosystem. She is very dedicated to preservation and ensured that no one strayed off marked paths or got too close to the wildlife. On one excursion, she encouraged us to put down our cameras and spend a few moments in silence so we could take in the sounds of the waves and the birds.

Photos by Jennifer Flowers

Days were action packed, with frequent excursions—including Zodiac rides to land, and snorkeling sessions in the Pacific—sometimes multiple times a day. With breaks for meals and rest, the rhythm can be intense, but it’s hard to resist joining every activity when you might swim alongside sea lions or spot a penguin diving into the water. A daylong visit to Santa Cruz Island a few days into the sailing offered a much-needed breather. There, we had a leisurely lunch on a farm and sanctuary with resident large tortoises and met the owners of Islander Coffee, a locally owned coffee harvesting and roasting company, at their shop (they also supply the yacht with outstanding coffee). We then paid a visit to the Charles Darwin Foundation, which Aqua Expeditions supports through donations and fund-raising efforts, to better understand the past, present, and future of the islands.

Life aboard

I was provided a dedicated wetsuit, a snorkel and mask, and fins for the duration of the trip, ensuring hygiene and comfort. Staff were always anticipating what you might need for an excursion, whether it was dry bags for your belongings or assistance carrying items to avoid them getting wet on the Zodiacs. “When you are tired and smiling, we say that is our mission,” Wendy, the cruise director, told us after a particularly exciting snorkeling session where we watched a sea lion chase a shark beneath us.

Photo by Jennifer Flowers

After each excursion, there was a hot towel and tea, cebollito fish soup, or hot chocolate awaiting us. On a sunny hike through a lava field, cool towels and fresh juice were on offer. And after every snorkeling session, we were reminded to unwind in the top-floor hot tub. Large outdoor equipment dryers meant we never had to put on a cold wetsuit between activities.

I was glad to have packed a rash guard to protect my skin from the sun, an extra swimsuit to use when my primary suit was still drying, and plenty of sunscreen (although Aqua Mare offers some aboard). The one thing I missed having? A waterproof GoPro camera. Fellow passengers brought one along and were kind enough to share some footage, but in hindsight I would have brought my own, especially on the day a playful Galápagos sea lion came nose to nose with each of us snorkelers. That trust between human and animal was profound, and it was a connection that moved me deeply.

For a super-yacht, the vibe was surprisingly casual aboard—think practical expedition wear during the day and casual evening attire like wrap skirts and linen shirts at night. Our small group of guests, all passionate wildlife enthusiasts, quickly bonded over the unique experience we were sharing.

It’s common to encounter cold currents, rugged terrain like lava fields, equatorial heat, and occasional rough waters, but the team ensured that every moment felt comfortable and memorable. The yacht would move among the islands overnight, and the staff kept us informed about the schedule so we were aware when we’d be underway. One night, the waters were rough enough to wake me up—and I was glad to have taken the advice of the crew to pop one of the anti–motion sickness meds, which were available to us in the main lounge at any time.

Courtesy of Aqua Mare

Each evening, we gathered over cocktails in the lounge before dinner. With the help of a slideshow, Grace hosted lectures on everything from the origin of the volcanic islands and plate tectonics to Charles Darwin’s role in the islands’ discovery. She would offer one chapter of history at a time, so as not to overwhelm. She was also very specific on how to prepare for each day—like the right footwear for wet or dry landings, and extra coverage or wind protection for islands with no natural shade or barriers from the elements.

Dining aboard the Aqua Mare is world-class. The menu, curated by renowned Peruvian chef Pedro Miguel Schiaffino, offered a delightful mix of both healthy (fresh poke bowls; pan-seared scallops) and indulgent (chocolate sauce–topped churros; creamy naranjilla pie) dishes. My partner and I enjoyed the seafood-forward menu items, but if you’re not big on fish and shellfish, tell the crew in advance and they’ll ensure you’re well-fed with alternatives.

We ate at communal tables, either outside or in one of the two interior dining rooms. Meals became a natural debrief, where guests swapped sightings, compared notes, and quietly acknowledged the rare privilege of being exactly where we were.

How and when to book

Aqua Mare offers year-round sailings in the Galápagos, with two seven-night itineraries that start at $10,920 per person, based on double occupancy, including the $200-per-person tourist tax on foreigners entering Galápagos National Park. One route goes to the western Galápagos islands, and the other visits the eastern islands—all have their own unique ecosystems. For those with the time and resources, there’s a two-week itinerary that sails to both regions.

The Galápagos has two seasons: the warmer, wetter season between December and May, and the cooler, drier season between June and November. We visited in the less busy month of October, when the weather and water are chillier. However, this time of year brings a surge in marine wildlife, thanks to the Humboldt Current, which brings nutrient-rich waters to the region. With fewer guests aboard on our sailing, the usual 1:1 staff to guest ratio—already impressive—doubled, enhancing the experience. Be sure to book extra early if you’re looking at sailing in the medium to high season (January 3 to April 25) or Christmas and New Year’s Eve departures on December 19 and 26, 2025.