There’s good reason for Iceland’s rapid rise in popularity among travelers, with visitorship increasing 328 percent annually between 2010 and 2019. The island nation boasts remarkable natural wonders—volcanic landscapes glinting under the midnight sun, waterfalls thundering into mossy canyons, the northern lights casting their ethereal glow in winter—and a quirky culture that never fails to enchant, embodied by the relatively widespread belief in and respect for elves, trolls, and the huldufólk (hidden people). I’ve been visiting Iceland regularly for more than a decade, and I’ve witnessed how the destination’s growing popularity has reshaped the tourism experience: Today, the Golden Circle, Blue Lagoon, and Reykjavík’s Laugavegur shopping street are often packed, especially at the height of summer, disrupting delicate landscapes and cultural rhythms.
Iceland will never be “undiscovered” again, but there are still plenty of ways to escape the busloads of tourists and get acquainted with the raw magic of the island. Here are a few tips for ways to seek out the country’s quieter, wilder side—while helping to preserve the very landscapes and communities that drew you here in the first place.
Skip the summer
Iceland’s seasons shape both the countryside and the crowds who visit it. June and July bring near-constant daylight and the biggest influx of tourists. If you crave quieter trails and more elbow room at waterfall viewpoints, shoulder seasons—mid-March into early June and September into late October—offer a sweet spot.
In winter, meanwhile, you’ll trade the lack of access to remote highland roads for aurora sightings and cozy nights in geothermal pools, as well as a wild musical experience in early November. “There’s nothing like visiting during Iceland Airwaves, the country’s biggest music festival for over 20 years,” says local musician Ingibjörg Friðriks, who goes by Inki. “During that week, every spot in [Reykjavík] transforms into a music venue.” The festival is spread across several locations, and she suggests making it a point to check out Gaukurinn, a dive bar known for its inclusive vibe and raw performances.
Some suites at the Retreat at the Blue Lagoon have their own private lagoons.
Courtesy of the Retreat at the Blue Lagoon
Hit the must-sees before or after the tour buses
Let’s be honest: Some spots are worth braving the crowds. Soaking in the Blue Lagoon’s milky waters is an unforgettable experience, and the Golden Circle loops past three of Iceland’s most defining sites—Thingvellir National Park, Gullfoss waterfall, and Geysir geothermal area. The trick is learning how to slip in when others aren’t around.
At the Blue Lagoon, book the earliest slot of the day or stay on-site at the Retreat Hotel for after-hours access. (Just remember to keep your hair out of the water so it won’t turn stiff from mineral buildup.) Alternatively, for a less-crowded, less-expensive soak, try Sky Lagoon near Reykjavík or Mývatn Nature Baths on the north side of the island.
To see the Golden Circle, rent a car instead of joining a bus tour, and hit the road before sunrise. Going it alone also allows you to make stops most of the tours skip, such as Kerid Crater and the Secret Lagoon in Flúðir. Gullfoss waterfall and Thingvellir National Park are the most crowded between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m., when the tour buses cycle through, but if you arrive at dawn or linger until evening, you may find these spots surprisingly serene. (For a blissfully overlooked waterfall that makes a fine alternative to Gulfoss, check out Kvernufoss, a 98-foot cascade that is a short walk from Skógar, along the south coast about a two-hour drive from Reykjavík.)
Seek out Reykjavík’s alternative scene
Lively Reykjavík is often the first and last stop for travelers, and pretty much all of them have been told they need to see Laugavegur and the Hallgrimskirkja church. Those are, indeed, worthwhile sights, but to get a taste of local life, opt instead to wander the Grandi District, an old harbor where warehouses have been transformed into design shops, breweries, and food halls. Check out Grandi Mathöll for traditional and modern Icelandic dishes, or pop into Kaffivagninn, Iceland’s oldest restaurant, established in 1935.
The city also offers a hip music scene that thrives well beyond Iceland Airwaves. “If you’re into indie, folk, or pop, Gamla Bíó and Iðnó are great spots—both set in historic buildings that make the visit worthwhile on their own,” Inki says. “For something more experimental, Mengi is a tiny but always fascinating venue. And if you’re just wandering downtown without a plan, Hús Máls og Menningar—a bookstore and bar—often hosts cover bands or singer-songwriters.”
Opt for small businesses and see big impacts
Where you spend your króna matters. Buy handicrafts directly from artisans (I’ve had luck finding a beautiful handmade lopapeysa sweater at the Kolaportið Fleamarket, which is open from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. on weekends), stay in locally owned hotels and guesthouses (I love the Hotel Rangá for aurora-spotting and the classic Hotel Ísafjörður when exploring the Westfjords), and eat at family-run restaurants. “There are so many hidden gems in our vibrant culinary scene that deserve more recognition,” says Gunnar Karl Gíslason, chef and owner of Reykjavík’s Dill Restaurant, which earned the country’s first Michelin star in 2017. “Eating at local restaurants, like those that focus on seasonal and sustainable ingredients, supports the community and provides a genuine taste of Icelandic culture.” He recommends heading north to visit Iceland’s second largest town, Akureyri, where you can check out his North Restaurant (inside the Hotel Akureyri) and enjoy lunch at chef Reynir Gretarsson’s Lyst, in the botanical gardens.
A number of excellent local guides can provide a singular experience while making sure you still hit the bucket-list highlights. I’ve twice traveled with Gunnar of Friend in Iceland for a comfortable yet personalized experience all around the country, and both times greatly benefited from his knowledge and personal connections. Once, we stopped by his friend’s home to watch Iceland compete in the Eurovision Song Contest, and the following year he brought me to Patreksfjörður to experience the traditional winter festival of Þorrablót.
The Rainbow Path in Ísafjörður leads travelers past popular sights and also serves as a symbol of inclusiveness for LGBTQ+ locals and visitors.
Photo by Darryl Brooks/Shutterstock
Take the road less traveled—to the East and West Fjords
Weather permitting, any time of the year is a good time to point your car out of Reykjavík, past the attractions in close proximity to the city (like the Blue Lagoon and the Golden Circle), and head toward the Eastfjords or Westfjords. In the East, fishing villages like Seyðisfjörður, a 411-mile drive from the capital along the Ring Road, offer colorful houses between fjords and mountains, with artist residencies and indie cafés adding a creative buzz. There is less geothermal activity here than near Reykjavík, but a dip in the Laugavellir hot pot is well worth the 90-minute detour.
It’s a minimum three-hour drive to the southernmost part of the Westfjords, a region that feels like the Iceland of 30 years ago: sparse traffic, towering cliffs filled with puffins, and dramatic sights like the 330-foot-tall Dynjandi waterfall, 40 miles from Ísafjörður, the largest settlement in the Westfjords (pop. 2,600). This town is a popular cruise destination, so time your visit for when the ships aren’t in harbor. If you do run into the cruisers, escape by taking a hike up Naustahvilft—known as the “Troll Seat”—for a bird’s-eye view of the fjord they’ll never see. The 550-foot walk is harder than it looks, but the panoramic scenery is more than worth the effort.
Intrepid types who truly seek solitude may also want to consider the Highlands—the uninhabited center of the island. “There, you’ll find black-sand deserts, hot springs framed by pink and green mountains, and massive glaciers,” Inki says. “It’s remote, raw, and one of the most unique landscapes you can experience.”
Explore safely and responsibly
Visiting less-populated areas comes with a certain level of responsibility, as Iceland’s environment is fragile. For instance, foot traffic can scar moss that takes decades to heal. “It’s important to practice Leave No Trace principles when exploring nature,” Gíslason says. “This means staying on marked paths, not disturbing wildlife, and leaving the places you visit as beautiful as you found them.”
What’s more, locals ultimately bear the cost of tourists needing to be rescued or, worse, losing their lives because they underestimate the power of Iceland’s unpredictable natural forces. “One of the most important ways to respect locals,” Inki explains, “is to remember that Iceland’s search-and-rescue teams are made up of volunteers giving their own time.” Always check road conditions and safety warnings before heading into the wilderness. And if a beach—let’s say the famous black-sand beach of Reynisfjara—has signs in multiple languages saying it’s unsafe to enter the water, there’s a good reason for it.
Stay longer, go slower
Many visitors attempt to circle the island in only a week, but slowing down reveals richer layers. Stay at a remote guesthouse, like the Sudavik Guesthouse just outside Ísafjörður, and you may end up getting a cultural immersion, with your hosts sharing stories of fishing traditions or showing you how to bake rye bread in hot spring steam. I’ll always treasure the month I spent exploring the Westfjords while staying in Ísafjörður. I was able to make several trips to the same fjord, Skötufjörður, witnessing the water brimming with whales at one moment and lit up by the aurora mere hours later, and build friendships with locals who saw me around town multiple times.
“I always recommend taking things a bit slower and enjoying the countryside and some of the smaller villages around the country,” Gíslason says. “I promise the stunning landscapes and natural wonders of Iceland will put a smile on your face and warmth in your heart.”
