I’m a Barcelona Local—Here’s How to Avoid Tourist Crowds

Barcelona’s allure lies in its vibrant cultural identity and its location, sandwiched between mountains and a coastline kissed by mild Mediterranean weather. I’ve lived in this pocket of paradise for more than five years; somehow, there’s always something new to discover. I can spend hours exploring the ambient Gothic Quarter, with its museums and artisan shops, or people-watching while sipping cava paired with tapas on a terrace in the Eixample district. I also love a seaside chiringuito (beach bar) for simple Mediterranean bites and coastal views during the warmer months.

La Sagrada Familia is among the most visited monuments in Spain, and few leave the surreal landmark feeling indifferent. Along with other notable sites throughout the city, the basilica attracts millions of visitors each year—many of whom wait hours for a glance at the unique work of Antoni Gaudí and his contemporaries.

Popularity, however, has a downside. In May 2024, 2 million tourists visited Barcelona and its surrounding region—5.9 percent more than in the same period the previous year. With 1.7 million recorded inhabitants within the city limits, these numbers have led to congestion in highly visited areas, strained local infrastructure and, most recently, tensions between tourists and locals. The city has implemented several measures to help manage the influx, including a plan to limit cruise ships, revoke short-term rental licenses, and raise tourism taxes by October.

But don’t fret. With some planning and adherence to responsible tourism rules launched by the city council, travelers can safely enjoy all Barcelona has to offer. To avoid the shoulder-to-shoulder masses at top attractions, aim to visit between November and March, when the bustle dies down. Perhaps venture beyond the typical tourist hot spots to discover lesser-known attractions, or better still, take a day trip to neighboring wine regions or idyllic towns in Girona and the Costa Brava.

Need a little guidance? Here’s how to experience Barcelona authentically and without the crowds.

Photo By Vlad G/Shutterstock

Rethink when—and how—you visit top attractions

In 2023, the same year the evangelist towers of Mark and John were completed, more than 4.7 million travelers visited the Sagrada Familia. That’s good news for the famous Basilica, as 100 percent of ticket sales go toward its continued care and construction, but less so for those trying to navigate through throngs of visitors. Joana Wilhelm, who’s been a Barcelona tour guide for more than 30 years, helps clients avoid that by recommending specific times to visit and suggesting personalized experiences. “At the Sagrada Familia, afternoons are less crowded, and the light [reflecting] from the stained glass windows creates an incredible atmosphere,” she says.

Creative events are another way to appreciate a landmark and its history. After 9 p.m., the rooftop of Gaudí’s visitable landmark Casa Mila (La Pedrera), a former private residence famous for its unconventional shape, transforms into a soundtracked, video-mapping light-show tour that can be paired with a guided visit of the building. Alternatively, the monument organizes evening classical rooftop concerts and art exhibitions that are generally less crowded than during the day.

Wilhelm suggests other evening events to keep crowds at bay, like attending a concert at the Palau de la Música concert hall where “all types of music are welcome in a unique modernist setting.” At Casa Batlló, a UNESCO World Heritage site and another of Gaudí's marvels, night owls can choose between an audio guide or a virtual-reality tablet and sip a complimentary glass of cava while exploring the rooftop.

Experience the city through a lesser-known lens

While all things Gaudí are a big draw, Barcelona offers a wide selection of under-the-radar monuments, cultural activities, and outdoor spaces to keep visitors engaged and entertained year-round.

Architecture

Gaudí’s legacy includes a collection of lesser-known works sprinkled across the city. This is good news for visitors who want to escape long lines or have limited time for cultural pursuits. Casa Vincens, a Gràcia-based 19th-century home turned museum, is the architect’s first important residential project. The house, completed in 1885, pulls back the curtain on bourgeois modernist living. “I admire Gaudí's creativity to [include] a garden inside the house,” said Wilhelm. “Another interesting building is the under-visited Torre Bellesguard in Sarrià-Sant Gervasi, with parts still in restoration,” she said. The neighborhood El Raval’s Palau Güell, an opulent onetime residence of Gaudí's most famous patron, Eusebi Güell, is also worth a gander.

To visit all three in a day, you’ll need the well-communicated metro system. Start at the torre (tower), followed by a 30-minute train ride to Gràcia and ending with a 15-minute trip to the centrally located palau (palace).

Notable works from modernist contemporaries include Josep Puig i Cadafalch’s Casa Amatller, an ornate dwelling often overlooked due to its unfortunate proximity to Gaudí's more famous attractions on Passeig de Gràcia, and Lluís Domènech i Montaner’s Sant Pau, a series of buildings housing a working hospital, which is a prime example of art nouveau in the city. For a solid cultural combo, walk 11 minutes from the latter building to the Sagrada Familia.

Culture

Pablo Picasso, whose namesake museum welcomes guests from around the globe, is a local legend. His friend and contemporary Joan Miró, a Barcelona-born surrealist artist and sculptor, is not as widely known, but equally important to the city’s cultural heritage.

Learn about his most important artworks at the eponymous and under-visited Fundació Joan Miró, up the hill in Parc de Montjuïc. A visual and sensory overview of famous creators’ bodies of work, Ideal Centre d’Arts Digitals engages your imagination. When time is limited, head to the Cases Singulars website, an organization promoting a curated collection of under-discovered cultural institutions. The Real Academia de Bellas Artes, boasting art pieces dating back to the 18th century, and Casa Rocamora, a well-preserved 19th-century mini palace, are among the standouts.

Parks & gardens

When considering outdoor spaces in Barcelona, the mosaic-lined fountains of Parc Güell or the idyllic row-boating spot Parque de la Ciutadella likely spring to mind. However, there are over 90 parks and gardens in and around the city, so travelers will surely find green spaces that cater to every need. The Jardí Botànic de Barcelona in Parc de Montjüic is Spain’s first botanical garden and hosts countless indigenous plant species and bonsai exhibitions. Also worthy of your time is Parc del Laberint d’Horta, with a romantic garden maze, in the Horta-Guinardó district in the northeastern part of the city.

Courtesy of Devour Tours

Venture to the city limits—and beyond

Many tourists flock to buzzier Barcelona streets and central beaches, unaware that the Catalonia region offers a wonderland of adventures further afield. Lauren Aloise, founder of Devour Tours, a company that immerses clients in local culture through food, suggests visiting a variety of neighborhoods in Barcelona. “The city is so walkable and gorgeous. My ideal day starts in El Born, then I make my way through Eixample and into Gràcia, admiring the architecture and dipping in and out of local eateries, boutiques, and galleries,” she says.

Day trips to medieval towns, wineries, or the coast provide an excellent way to soak up the local color. Wilhelm and Aloise recommend venturing to the Penedès wine region—reachable in under an hour by car—for a custom tour and wine tasting. Joan Segura Pujadas, a multigenerational cava producer, combines 4x4 vehicle rides and wine tastings in the vineyards. “My personal [favorite] winery is the elegant Jean Leon winery, or if you prefer a closer option, Alta Alella’s wonderful wines and vineyard is only 30 minutes from the city,” says Wilhelm.

In the Costa Brava region, a 1.5- to two-hour drive north depending on towns visited, a time-honored pastime is spending sunny days exploring tiny fishing villages like Calella, Llafranc, and Tamariu or sailing to under-discovered coves protected by jagged cliffs. Landlubbers can opt to take in the charm of neighboring medieval towns Pals, Púbol, or Peratallada, all a short distance from Mas de Torrent, a restored 18th-century farmhouse turned five-star hotel. The hotel arranges boat trips as far as Salvador Dalí's Girona haunts Cadaqués and Cap de Creus.

Discover local cuisine far from tourist hot spots

“Hands down, for me, the best time to come is February, during calçots [Catalan green onion] season,” says Aloise. “I love going to a [private] countryside house with friends and eating grilled calçots [with romesco sauce] all afternoon.” Although the dish is typically served at residential farmhouses, a selection of Barcelona-based restaurants participate in the tradition. For an authentic experience, try Can Travi Nou or Nou Can Martí, two rustic restaurants that capture the spirit of this culinary event.

Though quieter during off-peak times, markets offer seasonal treats any time of year. Strategically, Aloise visits the Mercat de la Boqueria around 8 a.m. to admire the modernist building’s wrought-iron and stained-glass entrance and the hustle of the market at opening time—and she always buys something during her visit. These days, you’ll likely also see her at more discreet markets, such as Mercat de Santa Caterina and the newly renovated Mercat de Sant Antoni. “The [beauty of] the iron-sided building alone is worth going for,” she said. “It is the true beating heart of the neighborhood, filled with passionate vendors.”

To eat as the locals do, Aloise shares a few gastro gems. “La Cova Fumada is a historic, crowded Barceloneta mainstay, serving signature bomba tapas, grilled artichokes, and incredible chipirones (baby squid),” she said. The Gràcia district’s La Pubilla is the place for modern Catalan dishes with seasonal ingredients. For your drinking pleasure, Els Sortidors del Parlament is the perfect spot in which to soak in Barcelona wine vibes. “Start with a cava and cured meats, then let the evening unfold,” she said.

Barcelona is a culinary capital with an impressive 35 Michelin stars. Fortunately, several top chefs propose more economical offerings without skimping on quality. In 2022, the trio behind the World’s 50 Best’s top restaurant this year, Disfrutar, opened Compartir Barcelona, an à la carte eatery serving shareable Mediterranean dishes at a comparatively manageable price point. Amar‘s Rafa Zafra co-owns Per Feina, a restaurant tucked away in trendy Poblenou, where consumers choose from a three-course menú del día (menu of the day) of Catalan plates for €19.50 ($21.20). For sweet tooths, Enigma head chef Albert Adrià returns to his pastry roots with Gelato Collection, the recently opened avant-garde ice cream parlor serving 20 artisanal flavors, though the eventual goal is to grow to 60.

Photo By Osama Ahdi

Shop artisan for souvenirs with a backstory

For tokens you’ll treasure, skip the mass-produced trinkets and textiles found at city-center souvenir shops and opt for artisanal wares that celebrate Catalan culture and traditions. Suzanne Wales, author of Made in Spain—a book spotlighting artisan craft makers nationwide—enjoys scouring local shops and markets for rare finds. “Ambling around Gràcia always yields lifestyle and fashion store goodies, while at Mercat dels Encants [flea market], I’ve been able to pick up porcelain silverware for a song,” she said.

For reasonably priced design-y pieces ranging from classic to modern, Wales proposes Centre d’Artesania Catalunya, the Catalan Craft Association’s gallery and shop. “I love [their] colorful glass versions of the porrón (a drinking vessel used at large gatherings and fiestas),” she says. At Curated By, shoppers can find oversize, handcrafted leather tote bags, while Anzi Barcelona offers a large selection of items made exclusively by locals. “My favorites are ceramic pieces inspired by fossils and shells, produced by concept designer Zeynep Büyükbayrak (Tøz Barcelona).”

I personally recently stumbled across a new store aptly named The Most Sustainable Souvenir Shop in the World. Run by sustainable design studio Naifactory Lab, the shop sells biodegradable pottery, illumination, and glasswork—all labeled with detailed information on their origins.

Photo courtesy of Casa Bonay

For a sense of place, stay at storied boutique hotels

Although popular with short-term rental portals like Airbnb, Barcelona officials plan to cancel 10,000 tourist apartment licenses by 2028 in a bid to provide new, affordable housing for residents. Luckily, the city features plenty of intimate boutique stays that not only have bespoke touches and amenities to promote a homey feel but also reveal a typical Catalan way of life.

Launched in early August, the 92-room Borneta has been locally curated down to every last inch, including the artwork and the food. Its design was aesthetically inspired by the 19th-century housing near Parc de la Ciutadella. “Various hotel details, from the timber flooring and wall panels to the antique cabinet pieces, were all influenced by these properties,” said interior designer James Thurstan Waterworth. Casa Sagnier, the former home and studio of prolific architect Enric Sagnier, greets guests in a sophisticated setting. Celebrating over eight years in the city, Casa Bonay—an urban-style hotel with multiple social spaces that offers premium canned cocktails called Libertine Blends—has always promoted its experiences and products with the local community in mind.

To enjoy the city in all its glory, Wales encourages visitors to explore. “Get out of your comfort zone. Districts such as Horta and Sants provide a much more authentic experience and lovely architecture that locals actually live in,” Wales says. Aloise, meanwhile, suggests taking the time to look around. “Barcelona is a city with a very visible energy,” she says. “Greet people, slow down, and observe. You may not be a local, but you can learn a lot by being open to interaction.”