If you’re looking for country luxe in Scotland’s Highlands—think tartan, but in cashmere—there’s nowhere better than Gleneagles or the Fife Arms, both of which tout their Goldilocks combination of just-right outdoorsiness and indulgence. But do they deliver on the promise? Absolutely—though in very different ways.
A seating area at the Fife Arms
Photo by Mark Bradford & Robert Glasper
Contender 1: The Fife Arms, Braemar, Aberdeenshire
This 46-room inn was the first major hospitality project from Artfarm, the hospitality offshoot of global gallery Hauser & Wirth. It occupies a historic 19th-century hotel, originally built to accommodate the tourist boom in Scotland after Queen Victoria snapped up Balmoral Castle in the 1850s. (That royal retreat is just a half-hour drive away.) Nightly rates from $620
The Birnham restaurant at Gleneagles serves Italian-American classics.
Photo courtesy of Gleneagles
Contender 2: Gleneagles, Auchterarder, Perthshire
This 850-acre estate is more than just a trio of world-famous golf courses (though those alone would be enough). Gleneagles is anchored by a luxury hotel that just celebrated its centenary, and has seen a major infusion of cash and cachet since Hoxton hotels owner Sharan Pasricha added it to his portfolio a decade ago. Nightly rates from $599, including breakfast
The vibe and crowd
Fife Arms
Ivan and Manuela Wirth treated the Fife Arms like a blank canvas when they took it over, and unleashed their roster of artists throughout. It’s as much a gallery as a hotel—don’t miss the junkyard-on-acid Subodh Gupta chandelier hanging in one meeting room. The result is a creative sugar rush, with a crowd heavy on art-world types—chic, if a little snooty.
Gleneagles
When I first stayed here more than 15 years ago, it was still a fusty, golf-driven resort. But the makeover under Pasricha’s ownership—he bought it from distiller Diageo which had neglected the gem for years—has left it virtually unrecognizable. Gone are the tweedy, paunchy putting types who propped up the bar, replaced by well-to-do families. It’s rambunctious and energetic; the front door seems always to be opening and closing.
Advantage: Gleneagles
Fife’s art haul is world class, but Glen’s vibe is warmer.
Rooms and amenities
Fife Arms
This entire property exudes maximalist Victoriana. I stayed in the Edward VII suite, one of several themed rooms here—this one inspired by Queen Victoria’s eldest, playboy prince-turned-king. The hotel’s delicious whimsy was most unfettered here, from the Eiffel Tower lamp (an ode to the prince, nicknamed Dirty Bertie, having an apartment and many lovers in Paris) to the biography in the bathroom; kudos for swapping a flimsy card for a knitted bird that can be left on the bed for sheets to remain unchanged. There are antiques throughout; it’s a pity my vintage, stuffing-deficient chaise lounge was so uncomfortable, though.
Gleneagles
The interiors are consistent, with decor best described as ideal for a wealthy, tasteful aunt. But beware the difference in guest rooms: The 230-plus accommodations are spread across the original Main House and the Braid House wing, a much less charming modern offshoot named after golf course designer James Braid. My room in the latter came with a small balcony—a hopeful gesture in Scotland, at best, even in midsummer—but at least it was spacious. The rooms in the Main House, however, have more charm.
Advantage: Fife Arms
Though I’d rather swap some of those antiques for more functional pieces.
Food and drink
Gleneagles (left); Fife Arms (right)
(Left) Photo courtesy of Gleneagles, (Right) Courtesy of Fife Arms
Fife Arms
Given that ArtFarm also runs standalone restaurants (including Manuela in New York), the food here should be a standout. Somehow, though, its fussy appropriation of classic dishes falls flat: Haggis, neeps, and tatties arrive plated in overly precious bite-size portions. I wish the breakfast were better, too: It’s an odd hybrid of buffet and served dishes, including a runny, tasteless gruel that would horrify my porridge-proud Scottish relatives. Bravo for the bars, though: The whisky den has hundreds of rare malts to try, and I dare you not to pocket a few coasters as souvenirs from Elsa’s, named after surrealist Elsa Schiaparelli. They echo her signature designs, including lobster claws and gloves.
Gleneagles
I’d stay here for one thing, if nothing else: the breakfast buffet. It’s become a signature, and for good reason: It’s an abundant, moreish spread that fills an entire room. Grab a banana or an apple from the Fuel for the Day cart at the entrance, then maybe mix up a Bloody Mary or two at that station; pick some fresh basil from the plant next to piles of fresh mozzarella, where you can DIY a caprese salad. The main dining room, with its overstuffed pale blue velvet banquettes, is huge, but never feels conference-like. Later in the day, the Century Bar’s martini is a standout, made from upstart Isle of Harris gin from the Outer Hebrides.
Advantage: Gleneagles
No contest with that breakfast.
Service
Fife Arms
Many of the staffers here were Highlanders, and they were genuinely warm—one happily stopped to show me the entire key library, where old school keys for each room are stored in their own hardcover book. There were some hiccups, including a mistake in transfers, but the recovery was sincere.
Gleneagles
This massive hotel is rostered with armies of staffers who materialize whenever needed—think a supersized Downton Abbey with the mystique of Willy Wonka. The effortless vibe is all down to GM Conor O’Leary, who’s a helpful and unflappable presence.
Advantage: Gleneagles
Close call here, as both teams are top-notch—but Glen’s operation is better oiled.
Location and experiences
Gleneagles (left); Fife Arms (right)
(Left) courtesy of Gleneagles, (Right) Courtesy of Fife Arms
Fife Arms
Step outside the front door of this hotel, and you’re in the heart of Braemar village. Grab a pint at Farquarson’s pub or walk to the stream for the ultimate Highland cold plunge (the hotel will even help arrange it, as it did when I joined a group of bravado-filled, towel-clad, shivering men clearly second-guessing their plans on a brisk winter morning). The Cairngorms are nearby, though most activities require a drive. The onsite Fife Arms Shop is an Aladdin’s Cave of treasures, all handpicked by owner Manuela Wirth, and the pricey treats are hard to resist. You’ve been warned.
Gleneagles
Think of this property as a self-contained fun palace. It’s isolated, but who needs to leave when so much is right at hand? There’s a huge indoor pool, falconry demos, clay pigeon shooting, an ice cream stand, a thoroughly equipped gym (extra points for the rack of Theraguns), and there’s even a shopping arcade full of standalone boutiques. Anything you might need during your stay, basically. Check in here and you won’t want or need to leave.
Advantage: Fife Arms
It’s more immersed in local Scottish life—you can pop to the supermarket or the pub on foot—though the ease of Gleneagles is seductive.
The verdict
Both hotels deliver handsomely on almost every level, but they’re squarely aimed at different clientele, despite their similar reputations. It’s a close call, but for me, the champ is Gleneagles—and not just because of that world-class breakfast (though that’s a major factor). There’s glamour aplenty at both, but I love the ease of staying at Glen, with everything at your fingertips and the sense that you don’t have to think too hard about what to do, or eat, or see next.
Gleneagles excels in particular for anyone traveling with a family, or a group: This is a place to pack the day with activities, then prop up the bar a little too late. It’s somewhere to surrender to, not just stay. The eminently Instagrammable Fife Arms is for couples, happy to idle in the snug over a coffee and perhaps take a walk or two before sinking into a clawfoot tub with a book— ideally that bio of Dirty Bertie.
