I’ve Been on Dozens of Safaris. This Remote Corner of Namibia Still Surprised Me

Far from the country’s famous deserts, a six-tent retreat offers intimate wildlife encounters and remarkable solitude in a little-known wetland wilderness that surprised even a seasoned safari traveler.
Nkasa Linyanti circular campfire with firepit in center and camp in background

At Nkasa Linyanti, guests can immerse themselves in the wildlife-rich wetlands of Namibia’s remote Nkasa Rupara National Park.

Courtesy of Natural Selection

Pros: Just six spacious tented suites, exceptional privacy and wildlife viewing; experienced guides; opportunities to explore by vehicle, boat, traditional canoe, and on foot

Cons: Remote location requires a lengthy road transfer or helicopter flight; no air conditioning; food and service are more relaxed than at some luxury safari lodges; sandy paths and steps present accessibility challenges

Location: Nkasa Rupara National Park, Zambezi Region, Namibia

Rates: From $640–$1,050 per person per night, all inclusive

Forget, for a moment, the towering red dunes and stark desert landscapes that have made Namibia one of Africa’s most alluring safari destinations. In the country’s remote northeastern Zambezi Region, formerly known as the Caprivi Strip, you won’t find the desert-adapted elephants or vast salt pans that draw many travelers to this largely arid country.

Here, in a narrow stretch of land extending east toward Botswana and Zambia, there’s a wonderland of grassy islands, riverine channels, and lush wetlands. It looks, for all the world, like Botswana’s celebrated Okavango Delta to the south, but with far fewer visitors and generally lower safari rates.

This is where you’ll find Nkasa Linyanti, the newest camp from conservation-minded safari company Natural Selection. Getting here involves a roughly four-hour drive from the nearest airport, unless you helicopter in—but that’s also part of the charm. As the only camp in this quiet corner of Nkasa Rupara National Park, you’re unlikely to see another vehicle, boat, or mokoro (traditional dugout canoe) during your stay.

As a South African who has been on dozens of safaris and traveled to Namibia seven times, I was struck by the sense of wilderness I experienced here. The park’s remoteness and the remarkable absence of other travelers make a stay at Nkasa Linyanti feel increasingly rare in the safari world.

Who’s Nkasa Linyanti for?

Two people in front of Jeep with watering hole  in background (L); family of elephants in green field (R)

Game drives from Nkasa Linyanti offer opportunities to spot elephants, lions, antelope, and other wildlife in the remote wetlands of Namibia’s Nkasa Rupara National Park.

Courtesy of Natural Selection

Safari fans who’ve ticked off the Okavango Delta and want to discover a region in southern Africa that is only just opening up to tourism. This corner of Nkasa Rupara National Park was previously only accessible by self-drive 4x4. Nkasa Linyanti combines understated safari luxury with the chance to explore one of the region’s lesser-known wetlands on game drives, mokoro trips, boat excursions, or bush walks.

It’s also a good fit for travelers who want their safari dollars to make a meaningful conservation impact. Nkasa Rupara is a keystone within the five-country KAZA transfrontier conservation area that links protected landscapes across Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia, and Zimbabwe. The camp and concession help safeguard this vital migration corridor for mega-herds of elephant and buffalo, while also supporting the monitoring work of national park rangers.

Who it isn’t for

Travelers seeking an easy-to-reach safari lodge with resort-style amenities and every creature comfort. The remote location, lack of air conditioning, and more relaxed approach to dining and service are all part of the experience.

The location: Nkasa Rupara National Park, Namibia

Aerial view of Nkasa Linyanti wetlands with curving channel of water; Jeep and a few people in left foreground

A network of waterways, floodplains, and grassy inlands makes Nkasa Rupara National Park a striking contrast to the country’s better-known desert landscapes.

Courtesy of Natural Selection

Nkasa Linyanti occupies a private concession within the roughly 79,000-acre Nkasa Rupara National Park, in Namibia’s Zambezi Region. Here, the unfenced Linyanti and Kwando rivers are all that separate Namibia from Botswana, allowing wildlife to move freely across the border. Since the concession was granted in 2019, the park, once impacted by local poaching, has seen a resurgence in wildlife numbers. The birding is also exceptional, with more than 400 species identified in the park.

The camp is open year round: April through October brings higher water levels for exploring by boat or mokoro, while November through March offers green landscapes and excellent bird watching. The cooler months of May through September are the best time to visit, while October through December can be especially hot.

The park’s remoteness and the remarkable absence of other travelers make a stay at Nkasa Linyanti feel increasingly rare in the safari world.

The tented suites

Guest tent interior with mosquito netting and large private veranda

Nkasa Linyati’s six spacious tented suites bring guests close to the surrounding wilderness.

Courtesy of Natural Selection

Nkasa Linyanti is built to blend into the landscape. Six under-canvas suites stand on raised timber decks beneath mature trees, offering privacy and uninterrupted views across the grasslands..

Inside, the design is pared back but beautifully done: Natural textiles, woven textures, and an earthy color palette reflect the surroundings. I particularly liked the subtle references to local culture, such as light fixtures inspired by the traditional fish traps of the area’s BaYeyi people.

Suites are spacious, with indoor and outdoor showers, living areas with comfortable writing desks (complete with a bird guide), and comfortable seating indoors and out. During two days, I spotted lions, elephants, red lechwe antelope, and warthogs from my tent.

Large fans help keep the suites comfortable, but there’s no air conditioning. During my visit in May, the fans were enough to take the edge off the daytime heat.

The camp is unfenced, allowing animals to wander through freely and making Nkasa Linyanti feel delightfully wild. Don’t be surprised to find lion and elephant tracks on the sandy paths most mornings. Guides escort guests between suites and the main lodge after dark, and daytime escorts are recommended, too.

The food and drink

Person behind table to serve food and drinks outdoors

Meals are a chance to share stories from the day’s safari adventures around the fire.

Courtesy of Natural Selection

Meals at Nkasa Linyanti follow the familiar rhythms of safari life, beginning with coffee and fresh muffins around the campfire before an early morning game drive. A more substantial breakfast awaits back in camp around 10 a.m.

Lunches are casual and light—perhaps sesame-crusted chicken with flatbreads and tzatziki, or a white bean and za’atar salad. Local flavors appeared throughout my meals, from game meats to pancakes made with Namibian mahangu millet and maize meal cooked over the fire.

Dinners are heartier, multicourse affairs, typically featuring soup, fire-roasted breads, and a meat-centered main course. With much of the kitchen staff recruited from nearby villages, the cooking fittingly feels more homestyle than haute cuisine. For guests sitting beneath canvas as lions make contact calls in the distance, elaborate fine dining would seem beside the point.

The compact wine list focuses exclusively on South African labels. Most wines, selected spirits, mixers, and soft drinks are included in the rate. A more extensive wine and spirits list was still being developed at the time of my visit.

Staff and service

Rear view of guide standing in mokoro with one seated person in wetlands

A guide at Nkasa Linyanti navigates the waterways of the park by mokoro, a traditional dugout canoe.

Courtesy of Natural Selection

For a newly opened camp, the guiding is a particular strength. Guides such as Derrick Mwilima bring decades of experience in the region, lending depth to wildlife encounters and an understanding of the landscape that goes well beyond spotting animals.

Most of the camp’s hospitality staff are from nearby communities. The atmosphere is warm and unpretentious, though some members are still settling into their roles. Travelers expecting the highly choreographed service of an established luxury safari lodge may notice the difference; those who value genuine hospitality are unlikely to mind.

Accessibility

Nkasa Linyanti may be challenging for travelers with limited mobility. Sandy pathways connect the suites with the main lounge and dining areas, and wooden steps lead into both the accommodations and the main area. Guests with specific mobility requirements should discuss their needs with the camp before booking at [email protected].

Make a trip of it

Those looking to experience two dramatically different sides of the country may want to consider combining a stay at Nkasa Linyanti with a visit to the surreal salt-and-clay pans of Sossusvlei, in Namib-Naukluft National Park, or the wildlife-rich plains of Etosha National Park. Alternatively, combine the camp with a safari in Botswana’s Chobe National Park and a visit to Victoria Falls, on the border of Zambia and Zimbabwe.

Richard Holmes is a Cape Town–based freelance writer. When this Afar contributor is not jetting off on assignment, he’s usually unearthing a new foodie find in the Mother City or running the trails on Table Mountain. Follow him on @on_another_plane.
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