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AFAR chose a destination at random—by literally spinning a globe—and sent Jennifer Kahn on a spontaneous journey to Québec City.

Overview

Set high above the St. Lawrence on Cap Diamant, overlooking Old Québec, this imposing yet inviting landmark is as much a lodging as it is a tourist attraction, borne out of its reputation as the most photographed hotel in the world. Opened in 1893 by the Canadian Pacific Railway to drum up luxury riders for its trains, the castle-like Fairmont Le Château Frontenac feels every bit as grand today as it must have when Roosevelt and Churchill secretly hatched plans for the invasion of Normandy here in 1943—and it continues to be the hotel of choice for A-list celebrities and other notables. A $75 million renovation in 2014 updated the 611 rooms with a more contemporary feel, draping spaces in chic furnishings and soothing shades of gray and cream, plus butter-yellow or soft turquoise accents. The spa features seven treatment rooms adjacent to an indoor pool, whirlpool, steam rooms, and a gym, but the hotel has become a destination for its food: Champlain restaurant is helmed by acclaimed young chef Stéphane Modat and offers a modern take on Québécois cuisine alongside magnificent views, while 1608 Wine & Cheese Bar highlights local wines, cheeses, and charcuteries.

The province of Quebec is notorious for its quaint, picturesque villages. The compact forests and the thousands of lakes in the Laurentides region certainly make for the picture-perfect Canadian postcard, including the beautiful lakeside chapel in Saint-Alphonse or the wholesome locals of Old-Town Saint-Sauveur. On the other hand, the rolling hills of the Eastern Townships are as bucolic as it gets: villages like Hudson, with its gourmet market, microbrewery and century-old houses have a slight England feel, as does nearby Sutton. However, the ultimate wintery escape from Montreal surely is Quebec City, with the snow-capped Château Frontenac, 400+ year old historic center and festive winter Carnival every February.

Old Québec City looks and feels like a charming town in France that was transported to the shores of the St. Lawrence River more than four centuries ago. Step foot in Old Québec City and you’ll be surrounded by quaint, historic stone buildings flanking narrow streets paved with stone blocks. Everywhere you go, you will be reminded of the region’s Francophone heritage but this is not France, it’s Canada and the native Indian tribes have put their stamp on the Québécois identity. The result is a wonderful fusion of two cultures. French is the language spoken but the accent is uniquely Québécois. There is plenty of divine French food to be savored but I also scarfed down more than my fair share of Québec’s quintessential foods, poutine and tourtière. I loved strolling through galleries specializing in native Indian art. By the time I got home, I had gained a few pounds and developed an obsession with Inuit soapstone sculptures! Old Québec City is undeniably a place that you will want to explore on foot. After you end your stroll through Place-Royal and Quartier du Petit Champlain, walk up to Terrasse Dufferin and gaze up at the famed hotel, Château Frontenac. Then head to the ramparts of the Citadelle to take in the views overlooking the St. Lawrence. Old Québec City is a beautiful city with old world European charm that beckons you to slow down. If you live on the east coast of the US, a visit to Old Québec City makes for a perfect long weekend escape!

Quebec really knows how to throw a party. It may be cold, but the Quebecois absolutely love it. The Hotel de Glace is just one example. Covering 32,000 square feet, this glistening example of “ice engineering” is just too much fun to pass up. If you’re feeling adventurous, make a reservation and spend the night, all of the rooms are themed differently with unique ice carvings in each room. The hotel will provide you with arctic-style sleeping bags designed to keep you warm well below zero. If perhaps you would like a libation, there is a bar that serves signature drinks. I sampled a Hotel De Glace cocktail that consisted of vodka and ice cider served in a shot glass carved from ice. After dark, the hotel comes to life with beautiful colored lighting that really highlights the structure. For a bit more fun for you adrenaline junkies, you will find a climbing wall made of ice, the gauntlet is now thrown down. For more information visit the hotel’s web site at http://www.hoteldeglace-canada.com. Photograph by www.xdachez.com

Overlooking the St. Lawrence River, the Terrasse Dufferin (Dufferin Terrace) runs along the top of a cliff, some 200 feet above the Lower Town, and is presided over by the grande dame hotel Fairmont Le Château Frontenac. The terrace was constructed in 1879 and is named after Lord Dufferin, governor-general of Canada from 1872 to 1878, who is credited with saving the old city walls after zealous city planners began to tear them down. The terrace is some 1,400 feet long and makes for a pleasant place to stroll, or sit, if you are visiting Quebec City on a sunny day. The funicular that descends to the Lower Town is found at the northern end of the terrace, near a statue of Samuel de Champlain.

Atop Cap Diamant (Cape Diamond), at the city’s highest point, the Citadelle overlooks Old Québec, the St. Lawrence River, and the Plains of Abraham. There have been defensive structures here as early as the French period—in fact, the location of Québec City was chosen because Samuel de Champlain saw the strategic advantages that Cap Diamant offered. The fortifications you see today, however, date to the 19th century: They were built after a failed attempt by Americans to conquer Québec City during the War of 1812. Students of World War II history may be familiar with the Citadelle as the site of the Québec Conferences, when Winston Churchill, Franklin Delano Roosevelt, and Canada‘s prime minister, William Lyon Mackenzie King, met to plan their countries’ strategies during the war. The Citadelle is still an active military base; the museum inside is devoted to the 22nd Regiment, which makes its headquarters here.